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Innovative Marine Aquariums

DIY ATO with 12VDC Relay


PRReef

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Buzzer go off when water level is too high?

the buzzer goes off only when the water level is low, when its high the buzzer start beeping and theres another floatswitch that turn off the circuit so the aqualifter dont flood the sump, but obviously Im using a total of 4 Floatswitches for this project since the Buzzer is connected to a floatswitch independently. The alarm its just to know that theres a problem with the ATO system and that it needs to be fixed.

 

so theres 3 floatswitches which complete the circuit for the relay(primary circuit), all of those switches are activated when the water level is low but the third switch works the inverse(I flipped the floating ring of the floatswitch so it does the opposite of the first ones and the floatswitch needs to be installed up-side down) and the fourth switch(alarm switch) is doing the opposite of the first two switches(flipped the ring but not installed up-side down) and its connected independently(another circuit) so it doesnt break the primary circuit which it will be using the third switch to turn off the the relay in case the first two switches fail. if the third switch break and by some reason completes the circuit again by who knows how then It will flood my basement LOL.

 

Not sure how well I explained this but let me know if you get lost with my explanation hehehe

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Do you have a close up or detailed picture on how you wired the 3 float switches together?

And a diagram of which wires go where for the entire setup? This is inspiring, I am going to try to put together a similar setup (2 low level floats and one high level float) for the tank in my office.

 

Thanks!

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And a diagram of which wires go where for the entire setup? This is inspiring, I am going to try to put together a similar setup (2 low level floats and one high level float) for the tank in my office.

 

Thanks!

 

Thank you. I will post a full wiring diagram later so everything is clear. The unit is working very well, Im starting

To hate the loud buzzer thought hehehe.

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Do you have a close up or detailed picture on how you wired the 3 float switches together?

 

The floatswitches are connected in series so that means that every floatswitch cable end is attached to another floatswitch end etc... You should end up with 2 unattached end coming from different switches so that's your positive and negative ends to complete the circuit. I will post a diagram soon :)

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Got funds for an Aquacontroller Jr so this one needs to go.

 

 

3 floatswitches for ATO normal operation, 1 floatswitch for Alarm, 1 LED to show when pump is active, 1 rocker switch to know when the unit is on and to turn off and turn on the whole unit. Working flawlessly, really nice but I cant use this after getting an Aquacontroller Jr, I would like to use all the features of the Aquacontroller to justify the cost.

 

asking $50 shipped

free candy bar with buy hehehehe

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What kind of Candy Bar? Is it used? (the candy bar....)

hehehehehe the candy would be brand new and your choice of candy bar :) best deal ever LOL

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  • 2 weeks later...

Would you mind sharing the specifics for the buzzer, or posting a wiring diagram. I tried to follow from the pics, but not sure how the 3rd float switch would connect, or how the buzzer would connect.

Thanks for the write up! I am in the processes of purchasing all the pieces to make mine.

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Would you mind sharing the specifics for the buzzer, or posting a wiring diagram. I tried to follow from the pics, but not sure how the 3rd float switch would connect, or how the buzzer would connect.

Thanks for the write up! I am in the processes of purchasing all the pieces to make mine.

 

The 3rd switch will be connected in serie along with one of the buzzer cable, then you just need to hook that up on the relay positive and negative ends and you are done. That way that switch will activate the alarm if the water level gets too high in the sump.

 

post-58815-1314826483_thumb.jpg

Replace the 9v Battery for the relay or other source of power.

 

would this work if you were using a 12VDC Air pump?

 

would this work if you were using a 12VDC Air pump?

Yes, i was using an aqualifter for this operation.

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So i have a 12V power supply, float switch, and pump.

 

I tried Splicing the float switch into the power cord before it get's to the pump but it wont work. Am i doing something wrong?

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So i have a 12V power supply, float switch, and pump.

 

I tried Splicing the float switch into the power cord before it get's to the pump but it wont work. Am i doing something wrong?

Any floatswitch needs to be attached to a relay and the pump connected to a 120v source.

 

As you can see in this picture, those cable ends are going to be connected to a relay. You would need to use a relay to be able to convert 120v circuit to a 12v circuit, this way you create a bridge between the floatswitches and Pump.

 

post-58815-1314897991_thumb.jpg

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but if the circuit is already 12V's shouldn't this work like a switch?

you need more than 12v to turn on a pump, thats why a relay is necessary because it makes a bridge between the two volts variations(110v &12v) without hurting the floatswitches too much.

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  • 4 weeks later...
you need more than 12v to turn on a pump, thats why a relay is necessary because it makes a bridge between the two volts variation without hurting the floatswitch too much.

 

My only question is in regards to the Relay selection

 

Radio Shack has 2 different 10 amp DPDT Relays that are very similar looking specs and physical design. One is 125V and the other is 12V. Why are you not choosing the 125 volt Relay, if you're running a 120V Extension cord through one side of it?

 

125 Volt version for $8.99

 

12 Volt Version for $8.99

 

 

 

I'm having a challenging time getting any Relay info that answers those questions. Any detail on the thought process to choosing the 12V over the 120V version. Also wondering, how many people on here have built this circuit using the 12 V Relay with success.

 

Thanks

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I'm having a challenging time getting any Relay info that answers those questions. Any detail on the thought process to choosing the 12V over the 120V version. Also wondering, how many people on here have built this circuit using the 12 V Relay with success.

 

Relay has two halves -- the coil control circuit and the load side contacts.

 

The 12VDC version is what you want for our application. The rating refers to the coil, as it's the coil that switches the relay on or off.

 

You use a 12VDC "wall wart" to connect the coil to the float switches. This safe, low voltage will not damage the float switches.

 

The 120VAC wall power is connected to the relay contacts. This is the load that is switched on and off by the relay and runs your Aqualifter or small powerhead.

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Relay has two halves -- the coil control circuit and the load side contacts.

 

The 12VDC version is what you want for our application. The rating refers to the coil, as it's the coil that switches the relay on or off.

 

You use a 12VDC "wall wart" to connect the coil to the float switches. This safe, low voltage will not damage the float switches.

 

The 120VAC wall power is connected to the relay contacts. This is the load that is switched on and off by the relay and runs your Aqualifter or small powerhead.

 

thanks for adding the info ;)

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Relay has two halves -- the coil control circuit and the load side contacts.

 

The 12VDC version is what you want for our application. The rating refers to the coil, as it's the coil that switches the relay on or off.

 

So, the voltage rating always refers to the coil ??? And the other side of Relay won't be damaged by the 120 V plug running AC through it. That was my only concern.

 

Thanks

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So, the voltage rating always refers to the coil ??? And the other side of Relay won't be damaged by the 120 V plug running AC through it. That was my only concern.
Correct, voltage refers to the coil, amperage refers to the load contacts. So Radio Shack's 12VDC relay will not be damaged by running 0 to 10 amps of 120VAC through the load contacts.

 

It took me a while to chase this down but here's the info you want:

 

http://support.radioshack.com/support_supp...doc40/40109.htm

 

Contact Rating............................................... 15A at 125VAC

 

Odd that their "10A Relay" is rated for 15A. Still, an Aqualifter is going to pull way less than a 1A so you're good either way.

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Correct, voltage refers to the coil, amperage refers to the load contacts. So Radio Shack's 12VDC relay will not be damaged by running 0 to 10 amps of 120VAC through the load contacts.

 

It took me a while to chase this down but here's the info you want:

 

http://support.radioshack.com/support_supp...doc40/40109.htm

 

Contact Rating............................................... 15A at 125VAC

 

Odd that their "10A Relay" is rated for 15A. Still, an Aqualifter is going to pull way less than a 1A so you're good either way.

 

Awesome,

 

Thanks

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  • 2 years later...

How do you set up the switch? I have everything working but can't get the on/off switch to work properly. Help please on wiring.

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  • 1 month later...

I built a very similar ATO, even used the same project box, but I didnt put a buzzer on mine. My sump is sized so that if the ATO resevoir comoketely emptied I still will not overflow. You may want to look at making a latching circuit with the float switches. This type of circuit allows you to have a 'high' float and 'low' float. When the water level drops below both switches, the pump will turn on, but does not turn off until the high switch is reached. This allows a greater change in water height before the pump turns on and fewer pump cycles which will lead to longer life. My return is quite small, so even a small amount of evap causes the water level to drop quite a bit, with this circuit my water can drop about 1.5 inches before it tops off.

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