Peroxide saves my Tank! With pics to Prove It!

[brandon429]

averted in the exact same manner as previous page

same growback percentages= minimal ongoing care needs since acted early

some grow back is expected in any system, using any control means. The right one is any control means that gives you the most return for the least cost and effort.

its not that algae will never grow again, they are better adapted to be in your reef than corals are. its that algae is not permitted now, so it can't be there even if the potentiation exists unless someone wants it there for other reasons.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/366080-a-very-simple-desktop-nano/

 

 

regarding dinoflagellates vs cyanobacteria identification (many times are confused) look at this smart thread from friends at R2R

 

a coffee filter to tell between the two, the way the test reaggregates after filtration seems to be pretty reliable

http://reef2reef.com/threads/helpful-method-for-identifying-dinoflagellates.216508/#post-2486511

[ABC]

Just following along

[brandon429]

another fix from friends at r2r, Ive linked this thread to them there as well for comparisons

 

http://reef2reef.com/threads/saving-a-tank-from-briopsis-outbreak.221649/#post-2552889

[jedimasterben]

Been dosing a 'squirt' of 3% into my reef to hopefully help at least a tad bit at the hair algae I've been plagued with from an undersized skimmer and a heavy feeding hand. Probably 10-15mL or so, ~50g total volume. My big magnifica nem seems to be unfazed by it for once, which is cool, cause it is all I was worried about.

 

 

Oh, and something cool. Dipped a rock with snake polyps on it into pure peroxide. Holy shit, those things fizzled and popped like mad, WAY more than the algae! I thought they were a goner since they turned bone white, but it turned out it was just their skin they were in the middle of shedding. Came off the next day and they looked 'new' lol.

[brandon429]

hey those isaurus have dinosaur skin I bet algae can grow directly off their flesh inclusions its not unheard of to have bits of rocks and sand given their time in one place or near substrate

thanks for the input Ben

we like all anemone feedback for sure. I almost think they can come off the sensitives list and be put on the list of mad for 2 days max lol

[jedimasterben]

Yes, they get covered in diatoms after about a week and a half or two weeks, which is about how long between sheddings

[martinicu]

Here's my story I have 12 gallon long. Do weekly 5 gallon changes Been fighting gha for a year. I tried peroxide on rocks that were remove but it would come back. I have one blue damsel doing great. Well anyhow I got so fed up I put about two ounces of peroxide in my tank. Killed all but one snail. Fish is fine. Corals trying to recover. I did it knowing it wasn't proper. However here's my frustration. The gha turned white and I removed as mush as I could. That was 4 days ago. Well it's back after today. Not real tall yet but evenly distributed on all the rocks. Ready to give up. Brandon what should I do?

[brandon429]

35% using lab grade caution handling is a valid step up

 

really its all I use as spot treats in my one gallon Here's the vid

 

not to add to whole tank, but as dry access spots on the gha locus

 

somehow those holdfasts are remaining this was next step burn

 

also sight unseen we should be accurate to say the good fluid may not prevent growback well enough to out pace all growths or tricky nutrient sinks/issues in all tanks, your stated growback sounds like we are pressing that potential, can you post fts just to see if any variable details stand out?

 

if once every 40 pages we have to consult gfo my pride w only be 4% hurt heh

 

also next wounded pride step

 

I recall a few pages back where mr SantaMonica linked to us the cure all abilities of plant vs plant binding... Might be a good time to test the ATS claims if our spot kills arent working. We are getting decent mileage in a good pct tanks on spot treats but the occasional noncompliant still has a few options even if our cursory trial doesn't work

 

really im for sure the 35 applied direct to algae, outside of tank, has a more thorough kill. 3% on my gelidium was growback regular, light control. 35 was eradication after about twice, just something to consider

 

brainstorms

 

what about kent tech m not as a full tank mg boost like usual, which is dilution on targets and nontargets alike, but as the spot treatment liquid? We are concentrate seekers and that's no cornea blanch risk liie 35

 

Not ready to give up yet but its prudent to consider alts and blends too. need fts to check for sandbed details etc

[martinicu]

http://s1024.photobucket.com/component/Download-File?file=%2Falbums%2Fy301%2Fmartinicu%2Fimage_zpse5mkk8gd.jpeg does this help. I'm having trouble posting images.

[Elizabeth94]

Here ya go!

 

http://s1024.photobucket.com/component/Download-File?file=%2Falbums%2Fy301%2Fmartinicu%2Fimage_zpse5mkk8gd.jpeg does this help. I'm having trouble posting images.

 

[brandon429]

Noncompliant algae increase my intent it seems multi attack mode is needed

 

 

pics always show neat factors we cant get in just discussing thanks E for posting up I too always have to get a friend to post my pics, iPad browser gives me hassle

 

Not claiming to seal the deal on first observation but as we brainstorm little parts a remedy often comes about

 

Everybody's rock is at different stages based on what we have access to and tank variables but this rock is awaiting maturation. That means vital, light reflective space is open and bacteria take it first, then coralline and algae compete about the same time and after that higher benthic depositions. Thicker coralline is inhibitive to algae chemically, it's good to purple things up

 

Right now algae is outpacing and we have to guide it I strongly see a potential for the 35% here it comes from health food stores or natural markets as a bath additive, diluted of course, or a hard fruit wash. I would hit a test rock external, hardcore for five mins not a dip but simple pour over the algae and let it sit, pour over twice maybe. Rinse well and put back in...don't hand remove the algae, leave it some mass in place to try and get it to grow back so we can see its rebound.

 

* these grow back rounds are not atypical for one years holdfast penetrance hope that helps to know, these repeats are using 3% which is weak on strong holdfasts. Need to downplay the light portion and amp the holdfast attack, even tank darkness runs could be considered as a polar opposite change in status quo if quarantine alt holding tanks are avail...harder to regrow in opaque blacked tank for X timeframe after power spot runs

 

 

Or hold rocks in black buckets zero lights for a week after some harsh spot treats leave fish and corals in tank, clean all substrate at that time ** strong consideration to offer something unique and different for your challenge. Could be blacked out holding buckets w Kent magnesium at 1900 ppm levels post 35% spot treated rocks held in dark moving clean NSW for one week to see if that helps

 

still just making multi idea runs.

 

The light is too bright for this stage, this level is right for the dense coral low algae stage but it hasn't been re ramped up to meet that intensity, after each kill those rocks were put back under full strength light that is big part of this challenge

 

 

The sandbed looks fine and not atypical patches of brown or black or accumulations. Consider a quick full tank rinse where you take out everything into holding bucket and fully 100% rinse out the sand fully leaving no detritus whatsoever, there is a little now typical for its age and depth. You have this easy accessibility now with a nice calm rock stack, this detritus ejection helps every front within the tank, a vital action I just did last week and w do again few mos, this does not recycle if rinsed 100% free of detritus mostly from the fish.

 

 

Are those Marco rocks, known po4 retainers? Just wondering

 

Also, see how the GHA isn't pronounced all over the tank and walls? Water table po4 issues typically cause that so something is interesting here specifically about the rocks and per pics I'm sure we want to alter/ boost the ions that support coralline, decrease lighting to not work against it and await heavy coral loading that commands full on light

 

 

Above all for the corals they want to be dedicated spot fed your best frozen blends and sustained with water changes and good work for a few mos, healing w be directly proportional to heterotrophic feed offering and removing it from the water before breaking down into algae fuels

 

I'm not anti fish ! I'm pro pic detail

 

You don't have to remove it but the fish is contributing, it's a full non utility non grazer which adds the highest source of nutrient/nitrogen for the tank and that algae relishes it. If he remains, other comps are required boosted, I see this as a bunch of things that combine to tip or not tip scales in your favor. So far it's been only one counter action, some 3%

 

Consider rehoming the fish or using him later. If he's meant for this tank then keep him and get some 35 lol w work around his toughness (great fish feedback per overdose info)

 

Each one of these factors is safe to employ even if we aren't sure of the cause just yet. Impacting minor details have been revealed in your pics

 

All topoff and prep water has to be zero tds di

[martinicu]

Hi Brandon

You know your stuff. There are three groups of Marco dry rock in the tank. They all have the same regrowth. Th tank walls are not regrowing as quickly. I always wondered about the rock after reading about possible phosphate leaching..The lights are on high white only so I could take a realistic photo. I will turn them down. At this point i might even consider getting new rocks any suggestions?

 

I will still try daily dosing of 3% before any drastic 35% trials

 

. Thanks

To Elizabeth 94.

Thanks for the help with the photo. Fellow URI alum here. I wont tell you my class Im ancient !

[Halo_003]

So how careful shout I be when treating outside of tank? I have two BTAs and a RFA that are on affected rocks. I am a bit conerned because I have a branch rock where it's covered in some sort of algae, maybe bryopsis, and I have RBTAs on the top and underside of it. I seem to have a combination of bryopsis, bubble algae and some kind of stringy red. Yay.

 

My plan is to remove rocks from tank, spot treat, dip affected frags and small rocks in 1:3 ratio h2o2:SW, and then continue dosing tank at 1.25mL/G. I've been dosing the last week at .75mL/G daily to no real effect. I didn't expect any results from it, I just wanted to ramp up slowly.

 

Also, any tips on best way to treat algae that has popped up on a trochus snail shell?

[brandon429]

And that was a valid test too, shows that the dilution isn't working for the target it's likely a thicker body one that can resist. It makes me want to not use water borne dosing if the non response is like that, good initial test IMO.

 

I'd have a mister bottle we use for plants filled w sw to mist the anems~ don't leave hanging in the air/ lol it's cool trick! I've used child's toy buzz light year squirt gun to keep hammers wet before they didn't even get the decency of a mist, they got the focused zap

 

External treat the algae for sure with at minimum 3% new bottle, because if that won't do after at least an allowance of three retreat sessions then like above we might have to move on

 

pre opened bottles really matter in our treatments as 3% is as weak as possible and some holdfast or thick body algae really need stronger % anyway. so the right start it as least a new bottle unopened before

 

IMO the reason to intently spot treat like this is because it's harmless to try, it's a non impact to your whole tank water and regarding the dips I always find a way to not dip the flesh, I dip only the frag base or import areas but not the actual frogspawn polyp for example.

 

*******excellent anemone access trick from prior pages, don't take the whole anem out...roll around the areas that need to be in the air for access and leave the other mass in the water*

 

 

Lift the rock up from where it sits but not totally out. Expose the treatment areas leave the rest hanging down, hold those spots bubbling emersed for a while, you've seen no harm in the runoff peroxide hitting your tank but now that should be runoff from a focused spot treatment that is a low impact option for the anems and in every case known a nano reef will have better results from creative external treatments vs any in tank runs. Those peroxide pastes people were making simply by mixing with baking soda will cake onto your treat areas well and it's a good zap, good enough results in their thread I linked it here some pages back

 

Before and after pics are the most important, people want the pics more than anything y'all grab some before and afters during this run if you can thanks for the challenges this all makes my tank stronger. Even if we don't beat the algae a grow back pic before moving on to another method w be important documentation for others to see when to move on as well

[plainrt]

Spent like 6 hours yesterday on complete clean of my sump. Dipped my rock that was in sump in 50/50

Mix and it was interesting to see lol.

 

 

[Elizabeth94]

EWWWWWW

[brandon429]

That pic is both great to confirm the list of sensitives regarding hermodice sp, and it's hard to stomach while eating cocktail shrimp lol excellent pic glad to have it

[Halo_003]

Pics from mine incoming this weekend.

[martinicu]

I have a question when doing a 50/50 mix of peroxide and water is it salt water or ro/di ? thanks

[ninjamyst]

I have a question when doing a 50/50 mix of peroxide and water is it salt water or ro/di ? thanks

salt. you can just mix it by taking some water from your tank so the parameters will all match.

Spent like 6 hours yesterday on complete clean of my sump. Dipped my rock that was in sump in 50/50

Mix and it was interesting to see lol.

 

 

 

you monster!! hahah

[martinicu]

Thanks!

[brandon429]

I really like this work, a lot.

http://www.reefjar.com/how-to-kill-algae-with-h202/

 

This is my view on 35% incorporating all up to page 62:

 

It is simply an amplifier option. Anyone using peroxide at all is not doing it so they can put a medical sterilizer in their reef, they are doing it to make a troublesome spot bare using a controllable cheat. Other options exist if peroxide isn't indicated.

 

When it is, 35% is the autobahn and 3% is the speed limit you are allowed in a crossing zone, both have an application and use, simple as that. We just had a poster at Reef2Reef lose his whole tank to an uncontrolled kalk dump, there is no anti kalk bandwagon due to that, and there shouldn't be. Kalk itself is a helpful cheat to lessen the need for water changes, as even a hungry sps system can sustain without any dosers if you just connect a full auto total water change system, refresh rate set by amount of coral growth.

 

Cheats have risks and massive benefits, that's 35% and it's all I bother to use. Most invaders comply with 3% and it's safer. All of this work we show and I link is non cycle work or I wouldn't use it, the whole point of what we are using is a known algaecide with no measureable impact on filtration bacteria or tank balance.

 

 

Burn a rock

Lose an invader

Lose an invader gain control

Gain control give it back to coralline, graze better, export better, is a powerful algae control technique. 35% is a powerful tool it changed my tanks lifespan to indefinite.

[brandon429]

http://www.sciencemag.org/content/196/4287/298.short

 

1977 reference for peroxide was neat to see, posted in another thread it caught my attention. at least it was some form of use among marine animals, long time ago, sets a nice track record for it not being all that crazy of a compound to work with.

[brandon429]

http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dosing-hydrogen-peroxide-good-or-bad.224397/page-2

 

 

We want the best scrutiny for the method there is so that safety with effectiveness is the result

 

 

 

*****below is a neomeris option non peroxide from reef2reef, simple snails as grazers

http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/help-id-green-growth-not-bryopsis.226605/

[seabass]

I had to do something, as my livestock was suffering. Here is my holding tank as of last weekend.


I manually removed a gallon bag of algae.


Here's the after shot (prior to any peroxide treatments).


Here it is today (after more manual removal and two peroxide dips).

This was my second treatment (I performed the first last weekend). Still not great, but getting better.

 

I hesitate to give peroxide advice, due to the risks. However, I'll describe what I did, and the outcome.

 

For my peroxide treatment, I filled a container with 5 gallons of 3% hydrogen peroxide (and added 2.5 cups of salt mix to help prevent osmotic shock). The other container was just saltwater. One by one, I took out the frags and rocks, submerged them in the peroxide solution, held them up to drain off much of the solution, submerged them in the saltwater solution, and returned them to the tank.

I didn't take an after shot of the dipping containers, but I have found that bristle worms don't care for peroxide. They leave the rock and quickly die in the peroxide (although a single dip like this will not get rid of them all). I also find that snails don't do very well getting dipped in 3% peroxide (so I remove them prior to dipping).

 

The rocks in this tank contain anemones (BTAs, RFAs, and mini-carpets). The coral frags are mostly zoas, palys, and LPS. Things are holding up pretty well. I will continue the peroxide treatments until I get this in check.