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GU10 LED Build Thread (Chinese Ebay Lights)


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#1201
jm82792

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Sweet I ordered the 3x 1 watt ones.

It would be cool if they'd make GU10's with Cree XP-L(XP-Gs if you have smaller tanks instead of XML) and XM-l without the drivers. I like GU10's a lot, the spotlight concept is cool. But if we have more reliable yet economical drivers (DWZMs or otherwise) that are dimmable along with more efficient leds(less heat more light :) ) then we could have less lights, a cleaner look, better color rendition, and overall a more effective system...


I dunno .... just my random idea... If I had the resources to get a basic "system" off the ground it would be interesting to see how much response there would be... I'm assuming it would be easy as asking from a reliable vendor for the Crees without the drivers and knowing how many to have per GU10.

Edited by jm82792, 22 March 2012 - 07:10 PM.


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#1202
C.I._Reefer

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Sweet I ordered the 3x 1 watt ones.

It would be cool if they'd make GU10's with Cree XP-L(XP-Gs if you have smaller tanks instead of XML) and XM-l without the drivers. I like GU10's a lot, the spotlight concept is cool. But if we have more reliable yet economical drivers (DWZMs or otherwise) that are dimmable along with more efficient leds(less heat more light :) ) then we could have less lights, a cleaner look, better color rendition, and overall a more effective system...


I dunno .... just my random idea... If I had the resources to get a basic "system" off the ground it would be interesting to see how much response there would be... I'm assuming it would be easy as asking from a reliable vendor for the Crees without the drivers and knowing how many to have per GU10.


Agreed. I have a few 3x3w dimmable cree bulbs on the way. I'm anxious to see how they pan out, but jeeze they get kinda pricey.

#1203
jm82792

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It's ironic that the PARs are so much dough with
XREs being $3 and XPGs being $5ish...

It doesn't make sense in some ways... I love the idea of a "kit" of sort where you can control the color mix and banks of spotlights. Like a modular system that consists of a custom(RTC, LCD, and maybe a few extras in a black acrylic box) arduino with simple code combined with the LED drivers. You'd just plug in your spotlights, with each spotlight being controllable, then decide if that spotlight is a mix of colors or a certain color.
Finally with your 5 buttons and 20X4 LCD screen you would set the times and the dimming % for each spotlight

I don't know........ it's just an extension of my random idea, I think there is potential if someone were to commercialize it.

Edited by jm82792, 24 March 2012 - 06:08 PM.


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#1204
Salty Baulls

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Has anyone tried the MR16's? I see that they are more compact and about the same price. Any pros and cons of them over the GU10's?

Are there dimmable blue gu10's?

#1205
TinyGiant

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Has anyone tried the MR16's? I see that they are more compact and about the same price. Any pros and cons of them over the GU10's?

Are there dimmable blue gu10's?


they are just different sockets.. wouldnt see an issue. I like a bulb that locks in rather than just pushing it in. i always feel gravity will have its way eventually

#1206
Salty Baulls

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Right on. Ive got a 6 bulb current usa hot5 extreme..case. I cut it in half making a 2 foot shell for a 26 bow. Im trying to have as little "stuff" as possible in there. I will be using the splash shield and one of the 2 fans that it came with.

Right now im toying with the idea of 8- 3x2w 60deg Cool White in the center row. Anyone know if they run at 6w?

And 7 3w royal blue in front and in back @ 30 deg. So 48 watt cool white and 42 watts of royal blue.

#1207
mcarroll

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Has anyone tried the MR16's? I see that they are more compact and about the same price. Any pros and cons of them over the GU10's?


MR16 is technically the bulb shape ('m'etallic 'r'eflector, 16 eighths of an inch across) and when you're shopping can be considered a "naked" version of the bulb - no connector (only two leads in a push-fit molding), no AC power conversion. That's right - usually they are ready for DC current, only. Usually 12v. However, they are the same size and shape (on the lamp end) as the GU10 bulbs in this thread.

There is another common, as well as similar, bulb shape - MR11 - that is much smaller at about 1.125" in diameter. But that's another thread altogether....don't know anyone using them for our purposes (yet). :)

GU10 is the connector version we use in this thread almsot exclusively. Selling "GU10" bulbs is shorthand for "MR16 bulbs with a GU10 base".

E27 (edison, screw-in base - common houshold bulb) can be had as well. Again, selling these as "E27" bulbs is just shorthand for "MR16 bulbs with an E27 base". There's nothing wrong with using these instead of GU10, but the sockets to hold these bulbs are typically more expensive than the GU10 sockets.

Both added bases make the overall bulb a little longer (measuring from plug-to-lens) than the "MR16" versions due to the additional circuitry to support AC power and the new base. (E27's being a little longer than GU10's) MR16's are typically (not always) a little cheaper for this reason as well.

I believe it is possible to find AC powered MR16 bulbs (i.e. with AC circuitry, but no connector base) but I couldn't swear to it. If you do find them and decide to try them, make sure they're good for 120v power not just 240v.

-Matt

Edited by mcarroll, 26 March 2012 - 05:56 PM.


#1208
C.I._Reefer

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MR16 is technically the bulb shape ('m'etallic 'r'eflector, 16 eighths of an inch across) and when you're shopping can be considered a "naked" version of the bulb - no connector (only two leads in a push-fit molding), no AC power conversion. That's right - usually they are ready for DC current, only. Usually 12v. However, they are the same size and shape (on the lamp end) as the GU10 bulbs in this thread.

There is another common, as well as similar, bulb shape - MR11 - that is much smaller at about 1.25" in diameter. But that's another thread altogether....don't know anyone using them for our purposes (yet). :)

GU10 is the connector version we use in this thread almsot exclusively. Selling "GU10" bulbs is shorthand for "MR16 bulbs with a GU10 base".

E27 (edison, screw-in base - common houshold bulb) can be had as well. Again, selling these as "E27" bulbs is just shorthand for "MR16 bulbs with an E27 base". There's nothing wrong with using these instead of GU10, but the sockets to hold these bulbs are typically more expensive than the GU10 sockets.

Both added bases make the overall bulb a little longer (measuring from plug-to-lens) than the "MR16" versions due to the additional circuitry to support AC power and the new base. (E27's being a little longer than GU10's) MR16's are typically (not always) a little cheaper for this reason as well.

I believe it is possible to find AC powered MR16 bulbs (i.e. with AC circuitry, but no connector base) but I couldn't swear to it. If you do find them and decide to try them, make sure they're good for 120v power not just 240v.

-Matt


Good info, I didn't know that

#1209
mcarroll

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Got my lights hung, if not finished. To start with, I'm running 100% daylight bulbs. I like it so far.

Will have a write-up and some pics later! :)

-Matt

#1210
C.I._Reefer

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i have a few warm white and a few 4500k and the rest cool whites, but when i have just the white ones, holy crap it is yellow as hell. no way i could be into that look. also, dont you miss the coral floresence? with just whites corals dont look near as good

#1211
Salty Baulls

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Any thoughts on these dimmable blues?

http://www.dhgate.co...fc83642d28.html

#1212
Oakleyguy89

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Hey guys, figured I would post on this thread. I want to start up a 10gal, and was wondering how many of these would work? I was thinking of 10 5blue and 5cool white. What do you guys think? Also i was looking on the sellers stuff and they have a bulb that is 2xblues amd 1xWhite. Anyone have any experience with those ones? Here's the link http://www.ebay.com/...530340495909028

Edited by Oakleyguy89, 27 March 2012 - 01:55 PM.


#1213
boxboy

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Tiny

What color bulb did u get for white? I just got mine. and its really yellow. I gotta order more.

#1214
TinyGiant

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Tiny

What color bulb did u get for white? I just got mine. and its really yellow. I gotta order more.



i just went for the cool white.


you want to use it in addition to the blues.. by itself it is sorta of yellowish (7000k)

#1215
boxboy

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i just went for the cool white.


you want to use it in addition to the blues.. by itself it is sorta of yellowish (7000k)



Perfect. Thanks Tiny.
I just added a new pic to your Zoa thread..

#1216
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i just went for the cool white.


you want to use it in addition to the blues.. by itself it is sorta of yellowish (7000k)


+1 i have a mixture of cool white and "pure" white (4500k). Its pretty yellow without the blues, but you gotta have blues.

#1217
najluni15

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+1 i have a mixture of cool white and "pure" white (4500k). Its pretty yellow without the blues, but you gotta have blues.


FYI. I ordered some a month ago and have yet to get them. I opened a case with eBay. Seller replied and asked me to wait longer. Seems like a nice guy but lights might of got lost.
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#1218
boxboy

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My gu10 lights from ebay take 45days to recieve my order.

#1219
najluni15

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Oh wow. Alright. Guess I'll wait. Just a few bucks anyway. So do you guys like the color? I am wondering how it will color up corals since the whites are a bit yellow. I know acinic brings the most color out but I'm just wondering.

Edited by najluni15, 27 March 2012 - 03:28 PM.

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#1220
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Oh wow. Alright. Guess I'll wait. Just a few bucks anyway. So do you guys like the color? I am wondering how it will color up corals since the whites are a bit yellow. I know acinic brings the most color out but I'm just wondering.


with a mix of 50/50 cool white to 455nm blue, it is actually almost a perfect 14k look IMO which is very pleasant, I think tiny can back me up on this. I have a few more blues than whites, plus i have a few 4500k emitters in the mix, and i would call my color 16-17k just a bit bluer than a 14k pheonix MH bulb, but not a washed out 20k blue like some 20k bulbs you see. Whites being a bit yellow isnt specific to GU10s, its all LEDs 6500k emitters are just a bit yellow always. It isnt terrible by any means.

Also, some of my orders i get in 2 weeks and some take 6 even tho they are all from china. no clue why

#1221
najluni15

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with a mix of 50/50 cool white to 455nm blue, it is actually almost a perfect 14k look IMO which is very pleasant, I think tiny can back me up on this. I have a few more blues than whites, plus i have a few 4500k emitters in the mix, and i would call my color 16-17k just a bit bluer than a 14k pheonix MH bulb, but not a washed out 20k blue like some 20k bulbs you see. Whites being a bit yellow isnt specific to GU10s, its all LEDs 6500k emitters are just a bit yellow always. It isnt terrible by any means.

Also, some of my orders i get in 2 weeks and some take 6 even tho they are all from china. no clue why


Oh ok great. Thanks! I only ordered a few lights that I'm going to try to use as a light for my in sump frag setup. If they work well I'll order more for a 10g that my girlfriend wants to build. I kinda wish I already ordered more as I do not think 4 will be enough for an area that's around 8x8". I'll give it a try
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#1222
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Oh ok great. Thanks! I only ordered a few lights that I'm going to try to use as a light for my in sump frag setup. If they work well I'll order more for a 10g that my girlfriend wants to build. I kinda wish I already ordered more as I do not think 4 will be enough for an area that's around 8x8". I'll give it a try


If you need more and shipping delay is an issue, I usually have some extras laying around that i sell for $3.50-$5 +shipping depending on color(shipping is generally pretty cheap). Not trying to make a profit, I just occasionally buy them in lots and have extra laying around, and I can get them in ppls hands much quicker than China. I soldered some cw-b-nw bulbs for a member on here last week. Usually have sockets too for ~$0.75 each. Should have some 3x3w dimmable cree bulbs coming in next week for testing purposes, and I'm excited :). They seem to have a superior heatsink compared to most the 3x3w bulbs out there. Just throwing that out there if anyone needs some in a hurry.

Edited by C.I._Reefer, 27 March 2012 - 11:14 PM.


#1223
najluni15

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If you need more and shipping delay is an issue, I usually have some extras laying around that i sell for $3.50-$5 +shipping depending on color(shipping is generally pretty cheap). Not trying to make a profit, I just occasionally buy them in lots and have extra laying around, and I can get them in ppls hands much quicker than China. I soldered some cw-b-nw bulbs for a member on here last week. Usually have sockets too for ~$0.75 each. Should have some 3x3w dimmable cree bulbs coming in next week for testing purposes, and I'm excited :). They seem to have a superior heatsink compared to most the 3x3w bulbs out there. Just throwing that out there if anyone needs some in a hurry.


Sounds good! I may have to take you up on that offer. Let me see how my lights work out, and if i need more I will check in with you. How do the dimmable cree bulbs work? Are they also Gu10 lights, and if so how are they dimmed?
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#1224
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Sounds good! I may have to take you up on that offer. Let me see how my lights work out, and if i need more I will check in with you. How do the dimmable cree bulbs work? Are they also Gu10 lights, and if so how are they dimmed?



I'll have to get back to you on that one. I am assuming that they are dimmed via a dimmer switch, similar to what you would have for accent lighting in a living room (like those big white knobs). I could be completely wrong though :P. The biggest selling point for me though, is that they are crees and they look to have a better heatsink than the 3w ones i have worked with before, which I didn't have good luck with.

#1225
fote03

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Finally finished the new fixture last night.

48" Current fixture with 20 GU10 3w bulbs with 60d optics

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