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#1
OrphekUSA

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Our Products - Where to buy

The PR-25 (dimmable!)

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The PR-25 is a PAR38 formfactor bulb (screws into a normal light socket) and is a 70-150w halide pendant replacement. The PR-25 LED pendant produces a similar amount of PUR (photosynthetically usable radiation) as does a 150w metal halide bulb, with excellent spread from 60 degree ‘frosted’/honeycomb optics (each bulb covers ~16x16x16" @ 12" suspension height). Containing 12 diodes running at 2 watts each and available in various color combinations, the PR-25 is an excellent, cost effective and efficient choice for nano and mid-sized aquariums. The PUR ratio is so high than ~50-60 PAR under the PR-25 is equal to ~150 PAR under a 14k halide bulb. Even better, the PR-25 is dimmable with a common household dimmer!

WARNING: the PUR output of the PR-25 is the highest PUR available from an emitter that we're aware of, and you WILL bleach your coral with this light if you are not careful. It will not appear to your eye to emit such a high amount of energy, but when switching to this bulb double the distance from the MH bulb that it is replacing and slowly lower it over 2-3 weeks!

Available in two color options in 110v or 220v (see spectrographs):
- 6 blue / 4 white / 2 UV (~”20k” with UV for enhanced color)
- 6 blue / 6 white (~”14k”)
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Full output independent spectrograph of the PR-25 6 blue / 4 white / 2 UV-Violet

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Full output independent spectrograph of the PR-25 6 blue / 6 white

The PR-ML7 and PR-N7

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Fluorescent effect on M. digitata

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Fluorescent effect on R. florida

The PR-ML7 is a PAR30 formfactor bulb that screws into a normal light socket. Containing 7 diodes running at 2 watts each (four 450-460nm blue diodes, and three 380-440nm UV/violet diodes) the PR-ML7 is the ultimate color enhancing spotlight and/or moonlight. Perfect for adding UV light for coral fluorescence to existing displays and for nanos, or for spotlighting certain species, nothing adds color like UV, and we’re the only company offering such an option! Available in 110v or 220v, and it’s dimmable!

The PR-N7 is identical to the ML7 except it's designed as a light for nano & pico aquariums, and contains 3 of our 15k white Power LED™ emitters, 3 royal blue, and one of our UV-violet diodes.

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PR-3

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A 3w MR-16 formfactor bulb, the PR-3 contains two white and one royal blue emitters running at 1w each. Perfect for nano and pico aquariums, these versatile bulbs are accepted by many fixtures.

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T-8/T-5 LED Tubes

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Our LED tubes come in T-5 and T-8 formfactors. Completely powered by the fixure with no additional power source needed, our LED tubes are available in 24, 36, and 48" and emit 500 lumens per foot (compared to 400/foot for normal fluorescent bulbs) via our second generation Power LED™ diodes. As always, the drivers are constant current, with a power factor of 97. Even better, they also include our new UV/True Violet diode and very high PUR, CRI spectral curve (see below). Available late July!

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The PR-156 line (available in black or white)

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PR-156 compared to a 400w Geismann MH fixture

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PR-156 line in action on a high end reef: Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank) - Page 266 - Reef Central Online Community

Video of the PR-156's: YouTube - IMG 0067

The PR-156 line are the only LED lights designed to replace a 400w halide bulb. Using specially designed custom optics that reduce surface refraction and scatter, our PR-156 models put more light into the water than any other LED light. The models come standard with 42 of our Power LED white diodes and 18 blue diodes. We can customize the number and layout of each diode, as well as include our new UV/Violet diode for an additional charge. The 156 models come with an easy-to-adjust hanging kit, allowing for easy customization of spread as well as mounting angle. A separate ballast box contains two timers, one to operate the main 56 lights, and another that operates 4 blue lights that also serve as moonlights. The PR-156 units use high quality constant-current electronics, so they are not dimmable or controllable.
The PR-156 can illuminate aquariums up to 40” deep due to the 90 degree optics. This model offers limited spread but incredible depth penetration: SPS can be kept in 24”+ of water with this model!

The PR-156W is the recommended model for most aquariums, especially those shallower than 30”, the PR-156W has a wide angle, 120 degree reflector for increased coverage while still emitting more light than any other LED fixture. In most cases, this is the recommended choice. These units can be built to order with a custom layout and number of white, blue, and UV/Violet diodes!

Edited by OrphekUSA, 11 June 2011 - 02:02 AM.


#2
OrphekUSA

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Updated with pics of the ML-7!

#3
porksoda

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Nice lights!

Nice lights!

#4
OrphekUSA

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Why thank you, we think so too - this isn't your usual Cree-based poor CRI lighting here! ;)

#5
bensanders

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I understand that Orphek uses higher quality drivers but, I wish they were dimmable :(

Edited by bensanders, 21 April 2011 - 09:57 AM.

sandman's 40br
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#6
OrphekUSA

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Our PR-25 and ML7 bulbs are dimmable, but 156 line is not. Any particular reason you'd want to dim a 400w halide replacement?

#7
bensanders

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Our PR-25 and ML7 bulbs are dimmable, but 156 line is not. Any particular reason you'd want to dim a 400w halide replacement?


Yes, to simulate a dusk/dawn cycle and acclimate new corals.

Also the size is perfect for my 40br but I don't necessarily need a "400w metal halide replacement" because of the depth (16"). I would gladly spend a bit more for this unit (as opposed to an AI Sol Blue w/ controller) and have better spread across a 36" tank, at the sacrifice of dimming the light. Of course we both know it wouldn't be a true sacrifice considering an LED's life is extended by running them softer.
sandman's 40br
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#8
OrphekUSA

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Corals don't 'notice' dawn/dusk, they only recognize photocompensation or lack thereof.

Acclimation via dimming not only stresses your existing coral, but doesn't actually acclimate new additions to the light at full intensity, because dimming alters the spectrum of the light as compared to the light at full power. In the same regard, 'dimming' doesn't take a given spectral output and simply "dim" it - instead dimming alters the amount of power being driven to the emitters, which in turn alters the spectrum. So running a given LED light "dimmed" is/can be completely altering the spectral curve emitted at full power, PUR:power ratio, etc. Yes, there are ways around this issue, but then you'd be paying several hundred more dollars for the associated electronics for a feature that's mostly useless (from the coral's point of view)...and we're purists here at Orphek.

Yes, lower power does increase the emitter lifespan (which is why we run our emitters at 2w instead of 3w) but the electronics associated with dimming often have a shorter lifespan than the emitters!

You'd be better off purchasing a light designed to illuminate your aquarium at full power. 3x of our PR-25's should do the trick, and cost less. Alternatively, just increase the fixture suspension height. 36" spread is no problem for our 156 line. :)

Edited by OrphekUSA, 21 April 2011 - 04:59 PM.


#9
adinsxq

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nice.

Long live the CM!


#10
Destination

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ok quick questions 1# I'm running a biocube 29 I just received my par 25 I'm thinking about starting my light off at about 2 feet from the tank because I am switching from power compacts i have seen your comments about dimming and get the feeling that dimming is not suggested at all only light place ment so is 2 feet a good place to start and if so how low can i go

2# I also would like to order the ML7 the question that I have with this is do I run the ML7 with the par25 during the day time, or have it come on a hour or two before i cut off the par25, or just run it after i cut the par 25 off
and I'm guessing dimming is not necessary with this one either and should I be moving it up and down the same way as the par 25

sorry those questions are long winded


also I have the PAR 25UV if that matters

also should i run them side by side or front to back

Edited by Destination, 22 April 2011 - 10:20 AM.


#11
OrphekUSA

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Added a few more photos :)

#12
bensanders

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THAT'S what I wanted to see. A pretty tank lit with only the PR156s.
sandman's 40br
40br LED build
DIY Vortech Battery Backup

"I think it odd that a cephalopod would invent itself a god"

#13
OrphekUSA

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Well most people want comparison shots, which is why I usually post pics of tanks in the process of switching, so an A/B comparison can be viewed. There are scads of full tank shots in our photo galleries on Flickr and our website for large aquariums that are lit solely by Orphek LEDs. Here are a few:

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For more photos see our gallery our blog (links in my sig). :)

Edited by OrphekUSA, 10 May 2011 - 11:03 AM.


#14
bensanders

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Well most people want comparison shots, which is why I usually post pics of tanks in the process of switching, so an A/B comparison can be viewed. There are scads of full tank shots in our photo galleries on Flickr and our website for large aquariums that are lit solely by Orphek LEDs.


thanks :)
sandman's 40br
40br LED build
DIY Vortech Battery Backup

"I think it odd that a cephalopod would invent itself a god"

#15
GiantBen

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What would you recommend for a long shallow tank?
Most LED fixtures I see are geared towards having deep penetrating light over a more limited area. I have a 48x24x12 I would like to light, but I would need a fixture with a wider spread and less pentration.

#16
OrphekUSA

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I recommend 6 of our PR-25's. :)

#17
GiantBen

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I recommend 6 of our PR-25's. :)

So you don't have any fixtures you would recommend for this?
Six of these units would be $1200ish, plus I'd have to get lamps and figure a clean way of hanging it all...

#18
OrphekUSA

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Well, you could use a single PR-156 fixture suspended at 16-20" instead, or a PR-156W fixture at 12-16".

#19
Destination

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Added a few more photos :)



Way to go on ignoring my questions

honestly i dont mean to be so negative but after i ask my questions i ordered two more bulbs and they will be at my door tomorrow i need to know how to use these things

Edited by Destination, 26 April 2011 - 10:27 PM.


#20
GiantBen

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Well, you could use a single PR-156 fixture suspended at 16-20" instead, or a PR-156W fixture at 12-16".

This would cover the area of the tank? How would the par look ( going to check the site for par plots now)?

#21
doppelganger

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ok quick questions 1# I'm running a biocube 29 I just received my par 25 I'm thinking about starting my light off at about 2 feet from the tank because I am switching from power compacts i have seen your comments about dimming and get the feeling that dimming is not suggested at all only light place ment so is 2 feet a good place to start and if so how low can i go

2# I also would like to order the ML7 the question that I have with this is do I run the ML7 with the par25 during the day time, or have it come on a hour or two before i cut off the par25, or just run it after i cut the par 25 off
and I'm guessing dimming is not necessary with this one either and should I be moving it up and down the same way as the par 25

sorry those questions are long winded


also I have the PAR 25UV if that matters

also should i run them side by side or front to back


I'm curious about your question as well. I wonder what the "excellent spread from 60 degree ‘frosted’/honeycomb optics" is like. Is there any info on this? Obviously there's lots of variables but I'd still be nice to have a general idea of par/pur at like 100% or 50% dimmed, 36 inches off the sand bed etc. Any charts?

Edited by doppelganger, 27 April 2011 - 06:51 AM.

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#22
GiantBen

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Your product description of the PR-156W has a typo I think.

Today we’d like to introduce the PR-156W! The PR-156W is virtually identical to our popular PR-156 model but instead of clear 90 degree lenses for up to 40″ of water penetration, it features frosted 120 degree reflectors for increased coverage in wider, shallower aquariums. Reef aquarists looking for a superior LED light but don’t need the incredible intensity of the PR-156 will find the PR-156W fits their needs perfectly! The PR-156PR-156W is best used on aquariums 28″ or shallower, (and for those with canopies without a lot of clearance) and will be more economical for those needing ‘spread’ rather than ‘punch’. The PR-156W will be available from our dealers soon. Unfortunately, the wide angle lenses will not be available to convert existing PR-156 models to the PR-156W model.



PM me to let me know where I can pick up my free light fixture voucher :lol:

#23
OrphekUSA

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We don't post PAR maps, because, well, they pretty much mean zilch. Open air par plots are useless in the real world, and even underwater plots can have such much variability due to water clarity and other factors such as lids, etc. Not only that, but the PUR:PAR ratio on our 2nd generation emitters is so high that it makes a PAR measurement almost irrelevant - I almost bleached an S. haddoni carpet under 50 par with our PR-25's, and it was originally under a halide with almost 200.

#24
GiantBen

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Well, you could use a single PR-156 fixture suspended at 16-20" instead, or a PR-156W fixture at 12-16".


This would cover the area of the tank? How would the par look ( going to check the site for par plots now)?


So no par plots, but any input on how the coverage would be?

#25
evilc66

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We don't post PAR maps, because, well, they pretty much mean zilch. Open air par plots are useless in the real world, and even underwater plots can have such much variability due to water clarity and other factors such as lids, etc. Not only that, but the PUR:PAR ratio on our 2nd generation emitters is so high that it makes a PAR measurement almost irrelevant - I almost bleached an S. haddoni carpet under 50 par with our PR-25's, and it was originally under a halide with almost 200.

I'd really like to know what you are defining as PUR? Seeing as its an application specific measurement, I'd like to know what wavelength ranges you use and what bias weighting you use for the different wavelength ranges to get a PUR measurement? You mention PUR at every corner, but you have yet to define exactly what it is. Don't give us the typical definition of "photosynthetic usable radiation". We need details.