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40 Breeder Peninsula


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#1
circusordie16

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im pretty sure i saw a 40 breeder on here a few weeks ago that had the same idea as me but i cant seem to find it now. but like a million other people, petco's dollar per gallon sale made it the right time to get started on a tank ive had in my head for awhile so i bought a 40 breeder and the plan is to set it up as a peninsula tank with a false wall to turn it into kind of an AIO. i have a few questions though. in order to maximize the peninsula effect i really dont want to have anything stuck on the 2 long sides and 1 short side of the tank so i need to somehow get flow from one end to the other. my first plan is to have a false wall about 5" from one of the short sides and a large pile of live rock/island almost against this centered in the tank. im then thinking i would have two smaller islands towards the far end that are not as tall and not centered in the tank. the large island would contain any sps as it would be closest to the light and probably have the greatest flow. it would also have lps, zoas, etc. the smaller islands would have room for zoas and lps and ricordeas and anything else i find.

first question is lighting. i know this asked alot but im looking for any opinions on whether to get a 4 or 6 bulb t5 fixture. ive seen a lot of threads that have 4 bulbs and seem to be able to keep almost anything they want. 6 bulbs would definitely let me have anything i want but i think it might be overkill and i dont want to have to hide every lps or softie that i get. however, i also want to be able to keep any sps in the top half and have great colors. i also want the option of getting a clam sometime down the road. so the question is, will a 4 bulb (probably tek light fixture) let me do this?

second question is flow. if i have a false wall, what pumps will get flow from one end to the other ( ~31" away )? i was thinking of having two controllable koralia 2 or 3s with one on each side of the main rock pile pointing lengthwise. will this get enough flow all the way to the other end? if i have a false wall i could also have a return pump with some locline spitting flow out a little farther down but i dont want to have locline extending through my tank either. other option is a vortech on one end but i feel like that will eliminate my idea of having a centered large rock pile and would make the idea of a false wall pretty much dead.

so thats my preliminary plan and any opinions or suggestions are welcome but i do not want to drill this tank or have a sump. thats why i like the AIO option so i can hide the heater and have a space to put some chaeto in there for nutrient export. ill try to take a picture of my empty tank with some props in it to give you guys a little better idea of the layout im envisioning.

#2
circusordie16

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hmmm no comments? attached is picture showing my general idea of an aquascape. i want the AIO end to be at the top so a single vortec in the middle might give too high of flow on the rock there. my other idea is a pump on each side of this rock formation but im not sure what pumps would provide enough flow at the opposite end. any help? i think ive decided on a 4x39W t5 light (ati sunpower hopefully) due partially do dave fason's success in a tank with similar dimensions.

i think im also going to build my own stand for this tank since im unemployed til august and dont have anything else to do. im going to use the template provided on reefcentral. does it matter what type of 2x4's i use? i was at lowes yesterday and they had stud 2x4s, pine, or treated. does it really matter if im going to prime it and paint it anyways?

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#3
Dasani

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Nice tank. I am going to upgrade to a 40B as well.

Light: I have heard that a 24" light is plenty for a 40B. I have decided to get the best of both worlds and go with a 150w mh, and 4x24w t5 combo. Pretty cheap on this site. http://fishneedit.co...ft-f150222.html

Flow: Mp10 would be perfect. Small and controlable. Maybe squeeze a koralia nano or 1 in a spot that doesn't have much flow.

Nice idea about the false wall. The only thing is it may look odd having it on the side of the tank. What about putting it in the back corner? Like it spreads 6-8" over the back wall and is like 5" in depth?

Go for a DIY stand. Saves a lot of money. I don't think it matters what kind of would it is.

GL

Edited by Dasani, 09 July 2010 - 01:14 PM.

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#4
circusordie16

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picked up a used 36' 6x39w current nova extreme pro today. couldnt pass up the price so i jumped on it. next to do is build my stand and decide what i want for flow although im leaning towards a vortech right now.

#5
circusordie16

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i need some opinions before i go buy myself an mp10. if i put a corner overflow in one corner as dasani suggested will this impact the vortech in any way? if i had this little overflow (say 6 inches across the side where the vortech is and 3 inches into the tank) as a place to hide my heater and put some cheato, will the protruding part affect the intake or output of the vortech?

#6
Dasani

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If you put the vortech on the opposite side of the overflow, i think it should be fine. Wouldn't hurt to add a koralia nano in case you find some dead spots.

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#7
jbb_00

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I dont see it hendering the performance in any way, but i have an MP20 on my 40b peninsula and wish i had gone with the MP40.
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#8
Dasani

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I dont see it hendering the performance in any way, but i have an MP20 on my 40b peninsula and wish i had gone with the MP40.

Mp40 are so stinking expensive. And Mp10's and 20's are pretty much the same thing. I am going with an Mp10 and a koralia 1. PLus I will have an Eheim 1250 return pump (300 gph). So I will have tons of flow lol.
I would say go with Mp10, and you could add some koralia's if needed. That way you wont have to spend $400 on an Mp40. But it's your choice. Everyonne has an opinion.

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#9
circusordie16

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would there be any problems if the vortech was on the same side as the overflow?

jbb_00- thanks for sending me the link to your build, i knew i saw your tank somewhere but couldnt find it. do you run your mp20 at maximum power? does it reach the opposite end? if i only have medium flow at the far end that would be ok as i plan on having mostly zoas, rics, and lps at that end.

another option i saw somewhere, maybe reefcentral, is a center overflow and an mp10 on each side? would be less expensive than an mp40 but if it flow doesnt reach the other end it doesnt really matter.

#10
jbb_00

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yeah it reaches , but i also have my return on the opposite end of the vortech. my main concern was dead spots. I have it at 100% in lagoon mode, and added 2 koralia 1's at the same end as my return. my return is a quiet one 3000, but it supplies my 40b, fuge, and my 10g. so i'm not exactly sure how much that leaves actually going to the display. I can send you pics if you need them , just LMK
14824992649_e34861bc72.jpg

#11
circusordie16

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i finally got a stand built so im bringing this thread back from the dead. i also have a few new ideas. im hesitant to drill so im thinking about getting an overflow box and putting a sump in my stand. this would let me hide the heater and macroalgae and make top offs and water changes a little easier. i also like the idea of having a little fuge under there. so that brings me to a few questions.

what is the difference between the eshopps overflow box and the lifereef one? they seem the exact same except for price.

also, in my quest to have three sides of the tank completely free of any equipment im hoping to put the overflow box on the same side as and between 2 mp10's. will this cause a problem with the overflow working properly or with dead spots at the opposite end of the tank?

#12
adam87

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Cool, 40 Breeder Peninsula.:) I also have a 40 Breeder Peninsula.
I would drill the tank. I had a person drill it for me. His name is runningnreefing and he is on RC.
Go to the CMAS page on RC and post that you need your tank drill.

Edited by adam87, 22 December 2010 - 10:46 AM.


#13
SpringFever

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Drill it! it's easy... if you are drilling a 1" hole, leave 1" space from any edge and let the drill do the work. I drilled 3 holes in my 40 in an hour. Check my build for pics. Overflow boxes are sketch, no matter how nice. You will eventually loose siphon and flood your living room.

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#14
gutterguy

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Ya, drill it. It is easy. Not saying that u cant crack it because ive seen some people here do it. but like spring said, had it done in less than an hour. Let the drill do the work.
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#15
TinyGiant

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the LFS i work at charges $25 to drill a whole in a tank.. you might try some local glass shops or reef shops.. its easy enough.. i've been drilling tanks since i was about 12yo lol

#16
cruiZe

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drill it. and look at my 40b peninsula too ! Good luck ! great ideas... ask me in a few days if I have an MP10... **Christmas lurk** :ninja:

#17
circusordie16

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alright i think you guys convinced me to drill it. im thinking im gonna set it up herbie style with a center overflow in the middle of one of the short sides. 1" bulkheads and just run a u-tube for the return or maybe drill for that too. im wondering if the glass holes overflow boxes would be compatible with that? it seems like all the ones with two holes have giant bulkheads which i dont need. so i think ill just have the 1" bulkheads and then get an overflow box made so let me know if anybody here can do that!

then ill just set it up like shown here in post 157: http://www.nano-reef...?...9372&st=140

anybody see any problems?

#18
adam87

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Cool, 40 Breeder Peninsula.:) I also have a 40 Breeder Peninsula.
I would drill the tank. I had a person drill it for me. His name is runningnreefing and he is on RC.
Go to the CMAS page on RC and post that you need your tank drill.


Go on RC, email runningnreefing(Tom). For $75, he will drill your tank and build the overflow box.

post_47812_1284605066_thumb.jpg
post_47812_1285810541_thumb.jpg

Edited by adam87, 23 December 2010 - 07:40 PM.


#19
SpringFever

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I'm a DIY geek, so I say do it yourself. From the diagram you linked to, I would suggest drilling one hole higher than the other. Check out D haut's 40 to see what I mean.

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#20
circusordie16

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adam87- i wanna drill it myself, see how it goes. after reading a bunch of stuff it doesnt seem so hard and my dad has a drill press so ill use that and hopefully not bust it. i missed that part about runningnreefing making overflow boxes though so i might have to talk to him about that. thanks!

#21
SpringFever

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Drill press? It might be easier with a hand drill. You would probably be less likely to crack the tank, too.

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#22
cruiZe

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ya drill press sounds cool, but too hard to tell the pressure you are using. Just use a cordless drill, its easy ;) use very light pressure.

#23
circusordie16

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ok i guess ill go hand drill then, i was thinking drill press would make it easy so the bit doesnt walk around when i start the hole but i see how that would make it hard to tell how hard im pushing. so im gonna do 2 holes for a herbie style overflow centered on the back wall. the top hole (emergency drain) will be 3 inches below the trim. the second hole (regular drain) will be 1 inch below the top hole and 4 inches to the side (dimensions are center to center). this will be enclosed by an overflow box about 7 inches wide and 3 or 4 inches out from the wall. any problems with this? also any problems anybody could see with having the vortechs on the same wall as the overflow?

im gonna order the supplies from glass-holes and ill be getting (2) 1" bulkheads, (1) 1.75" holesaw, (2) gaskets, and a few elbows. missing anything?

#24
circusordie16

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i ordered my holesaw and bulkheads yesterday so i hope to drill it this weekend if not sooner. ill try to post some pictures of the stand later cuz otehrwise this thread is really boring.

another question about drilling. the cordless drill i have is pretty heavy. so i assume id more be supporting some of the weight of the drill instead of pushing down at all? just let part of the drills weight do the work?

#25
24nanoguy

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i ordered my holesaw and bulkheads yesterday so i hope to drill it this weekend if not sooner. ill try to post some pictures of the stand later cuz otehrwise this thread is really boring.

another question about drilling. the cordless drill i have is pretty heavy. so i assume id more be supporting some of the weight of the drill instead of pushing down at all? just let part of the drills weight do the work?

Make yourself some sort of template out of hardboard....cardboard, something to keep the bit in one spot as you start to drill.
The kit from Gl@*sholes.com comes with it. Simply tape it to the tank where you want to drill and it holds the bit there. MAKE SURE you use water while drilling! I actually clamped a garden hose to my tank to trickle cold water the entire time I drilled My 37Corner. Worked great.
I'll be drilling my 54Corner I just got in a couple days.
Let the drill do the work......VERY light pressure if any. Also, put something in the tank on the inside where your chunk of glass will fall....don't wont to get it drilled and have that piece break the other end of the tank!
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