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Ecoxotic LED Club


VtheMaestro

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gulfsurfer101

K thanks, I really don't feel like ditching out another hundred bucks on another pro module when I can make a nice true violet setup over my 20l with that cash.

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There are a good number of florescent proteins and pigments that appear red to our eyes. The magenta strip's spectrum may not influence some of these, but it certainly won't hurt and should actually enhance viewing of existing orange/red pigments.

 

The Mag/12k will not excite your BTA's florescence as much as the Mag/453. But, I think the Mag/12k looks more natural overall, however some like the more pronounced pink/purple glow of the Mag/453.

 

 

Thank you for all your help!

 

I couldn't wait to see what the 445nm looks with the 8000k/453nm so i went ahead and ordered the magenta/12000k as well.

 

Hopefully by the end of the week it will be like so....

 

4x 8000k/453nm

1x 445nm

1x magenta/12000k

 

All on polished reflectors.

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Thank you for all your help!

 

I couldn't wait to see what the 445nm looks with the 8000k/453nm so i went ahead and ordered the magenta/12000k as well.

 

Hopefully by the end of the week it will be like so....

 

4x 8000k/453nm

1x 445nm

1x magenta/12000k

 

All on polished reflectors.

 

That should give you something close to a 10K look, similar to the light in shallow reef water. Obviously, it won't have the intensity you'd find on a reef, but it should make for a very pleasant tank to look at.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Leichenmangel

Hi guys, I have a question. I have a 30l (~8g) cube aqarium with three LED spots, each 3 watts (5 blue, 4 white) and I'm not really that happy with the light :/ ( Also I'm a noob and super confused about LED and light related stuff)

 

The tank is stocked with mushrooms, softies, macro algae, an acan and a chalice coral and I'm worried about accidentally burning them with a light that's strong, but I'd also really like it to be strong enough to keep a small seriatopora (near the top) happy. I like the look of full spectrum LED fixtures and I'd also like the pinks and greens in my tank to pop if that's possible, so errm.... what kind of ecoxotic light would you choose for my tank? (sorry about the crappy picture btw....)

 

post-73502-1354712925_thumb.jpg

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Hey another Eheim Aquastyle! (or is that a modded Fluval Ebi?) Neat tank once you get the hang of it...have the same and have been wrestling with lighting issues since day one. Had a dimmed setup with a 12K/445 and 455/Magenta over it...never seemed to be able to get it to click.

 

Currently have a Bright Aquatics True Spectrum PAR38 over mine and am waffling between keeping it or sidegrading to the Full Spectrum product, which claims a 15K-18K look. Once I found an arm lamp that could handle the weight it looks like I may be done. As always, sorry for the iPhone pic... it's really more a 20K look; more blue and less washed out in person.

post-70644-1354734037_thumb.jpg

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Leichenmangel

Hey! It's actually a Dennerle 30l Nano Marinus Cube (http://www.dennerle.eu/global/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=182&Itemid=271〈=en) wich is quite a nice package for the price (160€), apart from the salt (KH 6, freshly mixed...) and the 24W T5 stock light. Your tank looks lovely with that arch shaped rock btw! Was it live or dead rock? And what full spectrum product are you considering? I seriously can't seem to find ANY full spectrum LED fixture here in Austria/Germany, so I'm curious about what you guys have available :)

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So, I'm a little confused on these ecoxotic fixtures. I have a 40g cube (24x24x18). My husband and I are looking at the Panorama Pro fixtures. Since our tank is 24 inches wide would we have to go with the 24 inch wide fixture? Or could we go with the 18 inch wide fixture and treat it like a metal halide pendant almost?

 

18inch-product-2lr.jpg

 

Or could we even skip that and just go for the 24w Panorama fixtures like these:

 

24fixture_1.jpg

 

And if we do get those could we get the marine strip and the actinic strip? Would we NEED both? Or do we need more light than those two combined could give us since our tank is fairly deep (24 inches deep). I'm assuming we would need more since it says good for fish, live rock, and soft corals. We do have LPS though. I'm just unsure of what would be the better purchase? I'm leaning toward the 18 inch wide Panorama Pro LED fixture though...and then having it attach to the back of the tank since the tank is an open top tank.

 

We really need to get rid of our T5s, and we can't put my metal halide pendant on without building a plexiglass top and purchasing $80 bulbs every 6-8 months. Blegh. HELP!

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  • 4 weeks later...
juliantheriot20

thinkin bout adding the 24inch actnic to my nova extreme 4bulb ho

going on a 20high what do you guys think worth 200 dollars?

like how it comes with the intensity knob and all

should look nice seems like my best option

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi experts! I was wondering if this setup will work/ any recommendations?? and do i have everything I need?

 

I have a Biocube 29

 

Option 1

 

1x Ecoxotic Panorama Pro 12k white

1x Panorama Pro 12k white/445nm Blue

1x Panorama Pro RGB

1x Mini RGB Controller with 44 key Remote (for RGB)

1x 24V 60W Transformer (to power 3 strips)

1x Simple OneTouch LED Controller

1x 3-way Splitter (for the 12k white & 12k/445nm & one extra)

 

 

Option 2

 

1x Ecoxotic Panorama Pro 12k white

1x Panorama Pro 12k white/445nm Blue

1x Panorama Pro 445nm/Magenta

1x 24V 60W Transformer (to power 3 strips)

1x Simple OneTouch LED Controller

1x 3-way Splitter (for the 12k white & 12k/445nm & one extra)

 

 

Am i missing any parts? and does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Thanks!!

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  • 1 year later...

Hey everyone! New to the Nano-Reef forums. I just got back into the hobby after a 7-8 year hiatus and decided to try the new(est) nano craze. I had always kept 75 gallons or larger reef and fish only tanks in the past.

I happened to have been given 2 old nearly burned out Ecoxotic Stunner Blue strips and was very impressed with their power. I ended up ordering a new transformer and 2- 8k 12.5" & 1- magenta/12k 12.5" strip for my newly set up used JBJ Nano-cube. Now i have new replacement blues on order to finish up the lighting. In the middle of this adventure into LEDs i learned that the Stunners are for "accent" lighting only but I have seen (as on this thread) where they CAN be used to an extent as main lighting. So i guess since i have the money already invested this is going to be an experiment of sorts. I was really wanting to do some sps but i think thats outta the question now. So far, as much as i've rushed it, its doing GREAT. I have the tiny marineland power filter on the back(IN the filter area) now running a standard filter cartridge but eventually i think i'm going to turn this into a makeshift refugium. I may move up to the next size power filter, not sure yet. Any comments/suggestions welcome!! Looking forward to getting back into this great hobby again!!

at a little over 1 month:

8-10lbs LR

10lbs Carib-Sea live sand

3 Zoa frags

GSP patch on LR already growing

bi color blenny

6 line wrasse

2 red legged hermits

emerald crab

cleaner shrimp

post-85853-0-28872100-1411577627_thumb.jpg

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I was really wanting to do some sps but i think thats outta the question now.

 

Depends on the type of 'SPS'. If you are thinking just Acropora, you'd have to look for some of the few 'lower light' types in the hobby. SPS encompases other genera such as Pavona, Montipora, etc. and many of these do not require high light (although some do).

 

Once your lighting is all set up, best practice would be to use a PAR meter (local reef club might rent one) to see how much light you have. Once you know the light intensity, only add organisms that are known to do well under the lighting provided.

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Sorry, yes i should've specified the sps. But thanks for the reply, i dont know where i could get a PAR meter around here. That would be cool tho!

 

You can also buy just the Quantum sensor from Apogee and connect it to a digital multimeter. Just have to multiply the readout by a factor of 5 to get PAR. Works out to be quite a bit cheaper than the full Apogee meter.

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