TimDanger's CADlights 39g Pro

[timdanger]

i was expecting to wait longer - but if i'm not registering any ammonia/nitrite by the end of next week, i'll probably go ahead and add the fish. you don't always get a definitive cycle when using cured LR. but, i'm not adding fish this weekend or anything, so it'll be at least 2 weeks (assuming no ammonia/nitrite).

[Rehype]

i was expecting to wait longer - but if i'm not registering any ammonia/nitrite by the end of next week, i'll probably go ahead and add the fish. you don't always get a definitive cycle when using cured LR. but, i'm not adding fish this weekend or anything, so it'll be at least 2 weeks (assuming no ammonia/nitrite).

 

 

Unless your live rock was pulled directly from another fully established tank Youll get an ammonia spike at some point(at leat a small one). Id recommend waiting until you have some sort of cycle before adding fish(just to be safe) if not the fish waste will jump start your cycle and you risk harming the fish.

[Mike Maddox]

Another benefit of waiting to add fish is the vast amount of micro-invertebrate life that appears! Pods, worms, snails, etc. will appear and multiply in droves if you go without fish for several months. The stuff is so neat, all my nanos have been and are fishless!

[rizakaniza]

Drop some dead shrimp in there.

[timdanger]

Unless your live rock was pulled directly from another fully established tank Youll get an ammonia spike at some point(at leat a small one). Id recommend waiting until you have some sort of cycle before adding fish(just to be safe) if not the fish waste will jump start your cycle and you risk harming the fish.

 

this makes sense, the only thing is that because i didn't test for 5 days, i wonder if the ammonia spike came and went and i missed it.

 

the LR was not pulled out of an established tank; it was pulled out of a vat that had been curing for 1 year+. as you can see, there is a fair amount of coralline algae/other things on some of the rock. i also had what i was sure would have been a substantial ammonia source from a particular piece of LR that had 4-5 sponges on it (i removed them as best i could, but i'm sure there was some remnant in there).

 

one thing that i'm not sure how to account for, though, is the fact that i used that Kent Rock Prep stuff and scrubbed all my LR with it in advance. maybe that got rid of too much of the die-off material in advance?

[Rehype]

this makes sense, the only thing is that because i didn't test for 5 days, i wonder if the ammonia spike came and went and i missed it.

 

the LR was not pulled out of an established tank; it was pulled out of a vat that had been curing for 1 year+. as you can see, there is a fair amount of coralline algae/other things on some of the rock. i also had what i was sure would have been a substantial ammonia source from a particular piece of LR that had 4-5 sponges on it (i removed them as best i could, but i'm sure there was some remnant in there).

 

one thing that i'm not sure how to account for, though, is the fact that i used that Kent Rock Prep stuff and scrubbed all my LR with it in advance. maybe that got rid of too much of the die-off material in advance?

 

5 days may be a little too short to see a cycle. Id say if you dont notice a spike within 2 weeks then you should be good to go. Keep in mind most of your water as well as sand wasnt from an established tank and dont yet support the bacterial colonies needed to keep your parameters in check. So just test the water every few days and see if you notice some ammonia or at least some nitrite..

[timdanger]

5 days may be a little too short to see a cycle. Id say if you dont notice a spike within 2 weeks then you should be good to go. Keep in mind most of your water as well as sand wasnt from an established tank and dont yet support the bacterial colonies needed to keep your parameters in check. So just test the water every few days and see if you notice some ammonia or at least some nitrite..

 

now on day 10 of up-and-running, and i just checked my cycle-relevant parameters again:

 

pH 8.3

ammonia: 0

nitrite: 0

nitrate: 0

 

and, the small diatoms has turned into a lot more -- not only diatoms, but also some bryopsis-looking feathery green algae and some hair algae. so, before those stalks get too thick, i think i'm going to add at least part of a CUC tonight.

 

my temperature is still hovering between 81-82. this concerns me for snails. but, i'll just have to see how it goes, i guess -- not investing in a chiller any time soon. i may just need to cut my photoperiod back and/or add an additional fan.

 

specific gravity is hanging in there at 1.023, per the hydrometer. i read something recently that i did not know/have not seen elsewhere -- it was in the book "Saltwater Aquarium Models" (sidenote: available at my local library; i would've preferred to read Bob Fenner's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" book, but I frankly can't justify the expense -- $62 in my LFS! "only" $44 on amazon -- and my library doesn't have it). Anyway, this book said that you have to add to your specific gravity reading based on the temperature of the water. it gives you a constant to add, based on the temperature -- so, for instance, say your temperature is 78 -- you add .0025 to your specific gravity reading (i don't have the book in front of me, but as i recall, that is approximately the constant the book gives). has anyone else heard this before?? i haven't read about adding to your specific gravity reading anywhere else, but it seems like important information, especially for me with my tank sitting at 82! thoughts?

[rizakaniza]

This is the very reason why I purchased a refractometer. I actually bought one from a "defective" batch from marine depot a while back. Other than a few scratches here and there nothing wrong with it. Got it for $20.

[rizakaniza]

I vote for dropping a piece of raw shrimp in the tank. Or maybe a Tang...

[mkregs]

my temperature is still hovering between 81-82. this concerns me for snails. but, i'll just have to see how it goes, i guess -- not investing in a chiller any time soon. i may just need to cut my photoperiod back and/or add an additional fan.

Temps of 81-82 are of no concern...and certainly not for snails. Why are you concerned with this temp range?

[timdanger]

This is the very reason why I purchased a refractometer. I actually bought one from a "defective" batch from marine depot a while back. Other than a few scratches here and there nothing wrong with it. Got it for $20.

 

that book said that you had to make the same adjustments for a refractometer (which was shocking to me -- so shocking that i am skeptical of the accuracy of the statement)!

 

no one else has heard of this?

 

Temps of 81-82 are of no concern...and certainly not for snails. Why are you concerned with this temp range?

 

my concern with the temp is that my experience, and I thought what I had read (though it has admittedly been a while since I've read this), has suggested that snails don't survive long after you get past 83F.

[rizakaniza]

that book said that you had to make the same adjustments for a refractometer (which was shocking to me -- so shocking that i am skeptical of the accuracy of the statement)!

 

Only with refractometers that do not automatically adjust themselves. Here's an example of one:

 

****LARGE, EASY TO READ SCALE****

 

For the most precise measurement of salinity, the experts use a Refractometer. This high-tech instrument is used to measure salinity when perfect conditions are needed for breeding, or keeping very delicate corals.

This easy-to-use and read device will allow you to keep track of your tank's salinity fluctuations. This instrument also features ATC, automatic temperature compensation that will allow the Refractometer to gauge an accurate measurement in a range of temperatures. Simply look through the eyepiece to measure.

Size: Unit is 8" long x 1" diameter.

 

http://www.aquacave.com/vertex-salinity-br...h-atc-2560.html

[timdanger]

anywho, I was feeling good about my situation last night, and the algae was really starting to proliferate, so I went to the LFS and picked up my CUC of about 12-14 tiny blue-legged hermits (which were selling for 1/3 of the cost of the scarlet-leg variety) and about 6 snails (4 trochus, 2 turbo). Also picked up a ball of chaeto to throw in my fuge. acclimated slowly and threw them all in last night -- everyone's still looking good this morning, and it looked like the crew had a busy night of chomping on algae.

 

i shortened my HQI photoperiod by about an hour to see if it would help with temperature control.

 

also, my skimmer just started producing skimmate last night out of nowhere! i was worried it wasn't working, but i guess it was still just breaking in. anyway, getting nice foamy bubbles in the neck of the collection cup now.

 

Only with refractometers that do not automatically adjust themselves. Here's an example of one:

 

http://www.aquacave.com/vertex-salinity-br...h-atc-2560.html

 

sweet. thanks for clearing that up!

[timdanger]

went through my full battery of tests tonight to see whether the snails/hermits/algae made any difference in my parameters and to see how my dosing of Brightwell Reef Code A+B is going. Results as follows:

 

temp: 81.4 (been holding steady between 81 and 82 since introducing extra fan/cutting photoperiod for HQI).

salinity: 1.024 and holding

ammonia: undetectable/0

nitrite: undetectable/0

nitrate: undetectable/0

calcium: 375ppm (boo)

alkalinity: 8.0dkh

phosphate: 0/undetectable

 

so, i'm liking what i'm seeing. very curious as to what my Mg is at. tough to justify buying the test kit when my LFS will test it for free... especially when my "to buy" list is so lengthy!

 

I figure this is as good a time as any to write my "to buy" wish list out:

1. vortech mp10 or mp20 (probably the 20 so that it's upgradeable)

2. refractometer w/ automatic temperature adjustment

3. JBJ ATO controller

4. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Bob Fenner

5. Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to Selection, Care and Compatibility by Anthony Calfo and Bob Fenner

6. GFCI plug

7. upgraded pump (maybe a QuietOne or an OceanRunner2500) for heat/noise issues

8. RKL or something along those lines.

9. Mg test kit

10. chiller (we'll see how things go running at 81.5 -- i'm not going to get it much lower without a chiller, i fear).

 

anyone else have suggestions for things i should add to this list?? or should i worry more about allocating money to my livestock?

[rizakaniza]

went through my full battery of tests tonight to see whether the snails/hermits/algae made any difference in my parameters and to see how my dosing of Brightwell Reef Code A+B is going. Results as follows:

 

temp: 81.4 (been holding steady between 81 and 82 since introducing extra fan/cutting photoperiod for HQI).

salinity: 1.024 and holding

ammonia: undetectable/0

nitrite: undetectable/0

nitrate: undetectable/0

calcium: 375ppm (boo)

alkalinity: 8.0dkh

phosphate: 0/undetectable

 

so, i'm liking what i'm seeing. very curious as to what my Mg is at. tough to justify buying the test kit when my LFS will test it for free... especially when my "to buy" list is so lengthy!

 

I figure this is as good a time as any to write my "to buy" wish list out:

1. vortech mp10 or mp20 (probably the 20 so that it's upgradeable)

2. refractometer w/ automatic temperature adjustment

3. JBJ ATO controller

4. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Bob Fenner

5. Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to Selection, Care and Compatibility by Anthony Calfo and Bob Fenner

6. GFCI plug

7. upgraded pump (maybe a QuietOne or an OceanRunner2500) for heat/noise issues

8. RKL or something along those lines.

9. Mg test kit

10. chiller (we'll see how things go running at 81.5 -- i'm not going to get it much lower without a chiller, i fear).

 

anyone else have suggestions for things i should add to this list?? or should i worry more about allocating money to my livestock?

How about an RO/DI filter? That's on my want-to-buy list. Also, I heard good things about the Rio pumps for the return line. Apparently they run a lot cooler and your tank temps will drop by a few degrees. There is a guy on RC who is using the Rio.

[Drew220]

A little tip with the GFCI. If you have any ceiling fans that could share the same circuit they may not work with the GFCI plug. A GFCI will also make other outlets downstream protected in a branch circuit, so if you have another GFCI in your house you may want to test it first to see if your outlet is already protected. Keep your receipt just in case. I tried wiring one up and it killed power to several of the outlets around the house because something was incompatible with it.

[timdanger]

A little tip with the GFCI. If you have any ceiling fans that could share the same circuit they may not work with the GFCI plug. A GFCI will also make other outlets downstream protected in a branch circuit, so if you have another GFCI in your house you may want to test it first to see if your outlet is already protected. Keep your receipt just in case. I tried wiring one up and it killed power to several of the outlets around the house because something was incompatible with it.

 

what about those GFCI outlets that just plug into normal outlets (e.g. here)? wouldn't that bypass that potential issue?

[rizakaniza]

I installed one in my living room. I had no problem. BTW, you can install it in such a way that it does not protect the other outlets down the chain. I am referring to an actual GFCI outlet btw.

[timdanger]

So, my skimmer was doing a lovely job pulling skimmate from my water -- until like 3 days ago, where the bubbles just sort of receded down the center tube in the collection cup about half way. This bears monitoring, as I still haven't collected much (if any) skimmate, despite the abundance of algae and life in the tank.

 

sidenote: wife bought me the Conscientious Marine Aquarist book for our anniversary yesterday -- she's my hero!

 

 

MUCH AFTER THE FACT EDIT: first signs that the skimmer motor was malfunctioning. Thanks to Eddie at Cadlights for supplying me with the newer model replacement motor!

[timdanger]

+1 peppermint shrimp from the LFS last night. she's a tiny little guy! hopefully her appetite for aiptasia is large (i've only seen 1 or 2 -- but i figured now was a good time to start working on it).

 

also, did some re-aquascaping/cleaning in there last night. i'll post some pictures later today.

[rizakaniza]

So, my skimmer was doing a lovely job pulling skimmate from my water -- until like 3 days ago, where the bubbles just sort of receded down the center tube in the collection cup about half way. This bears monitoring, as I still haven't collected much (if any) skimmate, despite the abundance of algae and life in the tank.

 

sidenote: wife bought me the Conscientious Marine Aquarist book for our anniversary yesterday -- she's my hero!

Your wife rocks! I am going to appease my wife by buyin her fish first. One of those bi-color pseudo-chromies.

[timdanger]

current FTS, as of this morning :

 

some colorful LR pics (check out the turquoise coralline!) :

 

 

 

 

 

 

AAAAND... what i fear is bryopsis :

 

[timdanger]

new pics, kids:

 

found freaky red/black striped worm -- any ID on this guy?

 

this blue-legged hermit crab lost his shell. i just have no idea what he did with it. i guess neither does he.

 

snail, doin' his job.

 

julia the peppermint shrimp making her first appearance.

 

interesting perspective shot, shows my bryopsis(?). i will say, the bryopsis situation has been improving dramatically.

 

 

Other than that, tank is looking good, and i'm starting to get little bits of coralline in new places. hurrah!

[timdanger]

algae update: in what i hope is good news, most of the bryopsis appears to be "cycle bryopsis" and has been gradually disappearing. now, only a few strands are left on one or two rocks.

 

i have an interesting issue that's come up: yesterday, i was turkey-baster-blasting some of my LR to blow some settled detritus off of the rocks. this usually results in some tank cloudiness, fine, no problem. however, after the cloudiness settled, i noticed i have what looks like hundreds if not thousands of tiny tiny pods hanging out on my glass!

 

"well, that's good/neat," i thought, and went on my merry way, assuming that they would eventually retreat back down the glass and into the sand.

 

however, i come back about 24 hours later, and what do i see? pretty much the same number of little guys hanging out on the glass still. "WHAT ARE YOU STILL DOING THERE?!" i say.

 

i obviously want these guys off my glass and back in my sand, but how do i do that without killing them? will they just make it back there themselves, eventually? they are doing a bad job of that so far. i was thinking of just trying to gently push them down the glass toward the sand with an algae scraper blade or something, but i don't want to disturb them/kill them if they will naturally retreat down there.

 

ideas?

[Rehype]

my concern with the temp is that my experience, and I thought what I had read (though it has admittedly been a while since I've read this), has suggested that snails don't survive long after you get past 83F.

 

 

Thats defintely not true i kept my tank in the 89 range(I was treating a small case of ich) The snails and hermits were fine.

 

new pics, kids:

 

found freaky red/black striped worm -- any ID on this guy?

 

 

Its a bristleworm

 

i obviously want these guys off my glass and back in my sand, but how do i do that without killing them? will they just make it back there themselves, eventually? they are doing a bad job of that so far. i was thinking of just trying to gently push them down the glass toward the sand with an algae scraper blade or something, but i don't want to disturb them/kill them if they will naturally retreat down there.

 

ideas?

 

 

Just let them be They will move around at their leisure. Unless you really dont want them hanging on you glass at all. In that case pick up a 6 line wrasee.