Pure water club ro units

[ezsalt73]

I am thinking of purchasing the 50 gpd pure water club portable ro/di unit. I live in an apartment so a permanent one is not possible. Are thes units any good?

[AZDesertRat]

They are mediocre ebay quality drinking water systems. They also go by the names Filters Direct and Water General among others, I guess they think if they change names the reputation doesn't follow them? I suppose if your TDS is real low to begin with it may perform satisfactory but if its normal to high (250 or above) I would look elsewhere. Any RO or RO/DI system can be portable so look at a system with full sized replacement filters for your best value.

Take a look at better reef quality systems and you will find lower micron rated prefilters ( 1 micron or less) and carbon blocks (0.6 microns), name brand RO membranes (Dow Filmtec, GE Water or Applied Membranes) with the brand clearly advertised, full sized vertical refillable DI filters (20 oz capacity), and things like TDS meters, pressure gauges and RO bypass valves which are almost necessary additions if you plan to keep the system long and get high quality water out of it. With RO/DI you really do get what you pay for. Look at a RO/DI as a fine tool, buy a good one the first time and it will last a long long time.

[Phixion]

I hate to break it to you, but the Pure Wter Club is NOT a rebranded Water General unit, nor is it even comparable. Furthermore Filter Direct is a distrabution company, they don't brand a RO/DI system themself, they just SELL RO/DI systems. I can't stress enough how much you need to get your facts straight. Water general IS a better branded system as they clearly advertise that they use GE/Desal membranes, where as the Pure Water Club system only stats they use a "brand name" TFC membrane, without actually stating who makes it, could be a generic branded FilmTec for all we know, who really knows though. I will also ask once again to please show this horrible reputation that Water General has, because I have only seen a good one from people with their systems.

 

With that all said, ANY RO/DI system will last you long long time, it's the filters that you have to replace at regular intervals, NO system is immune to that. 1 micron or 5 micron filters, they will all have to be replaced over time, it's called inevitability. If you havew high TDS tap water, then you might be changing those 1 micron filters far sooner than lesser TDS tap and 5 micron filters. So filter size does NOT men it'll last you longer as that is solely dependant on your incoming tap water TDS. Shame on you AZrat for evading from that simple common sense fact.

 

EZsalt, a few units I'd recommend is the Water General RO 6102 DINT system found here, I personally own this same system and have had it for 2 and a half years now, not a single complaint about it and it gave me 0 TDS water for a year before ANYTHING on it needed replacing, including the resin in the venerable horizontal DI chambers. Those can very easily be re-mounted vertically. Also don't listen to the bad reputation that AZrat claims Water General/Filters Direct have, I think their 100% Ebay rating speaks for itself. This means flawless shipping, some of the best pices out there, customer service 2nd to none AND most importantly a quality product with guaranteed satisfaction. He'll probably kick and scream otherwise, but the 100% will outshine any claim he can think of.

 

Another great system also on Ebay is the H20 Science unit found here. These are also sold under the brand of Pure H20 I believe it is. Either way, it's a great system, has a verticle DI chamber, granted it's only 10oz od fesin where the Water General uses a full 20oz, and the H20Science also comes with a nice built-in pressure gauge. This unit includes a 75gpd FilmTec membrane which is one of the industry standards when it comes to membranes.

 

The last system I'd highly recommend is the Airwaterice Mighty Mite with DI. It'll be the cheapest out of the bunch, but only because it's 50gpd rather than the 75 on the H20 Science, or 100gpd of the Water General. The Mighty Mite is also more compact of course but still utilizes quality indistry standard components and filters. I've never owned one myself but anyone I know that has had one, they were very satisfied with it, and Airwaterice is one of the best RO/DI system retailers to deal with in terms of Customer Service. They also sponsor several reef clubs and websites as well, I believe including Nano-Reef here.

 

All of the above mentioned system will work great for you and still allow to be used portably. That is use a faucet adaptor for the water intake and then just put the waste water hose in the sink, NO plumbing to tap into. Also all of the above systems come pre-assembled, I don't believe the Pure Water Club does from what I've heard. With pre-assembled, all you do is take out of box and connect the proper hose tubing to each outlet on the system. best of all, None of the systems above will run you over $150 SHIPPED to your door. Nothing that AZrat can suggest will compare in price without sacrificing in quality.

[AZDesertRat]

I will second the PurelyH2O or H2O Science units. They have something for everyone in all price ranges ahd qualities. I will stand behind my comments on the others. TDS has little to do with how long the filters last, its TSS or suspended solids and particulates that shorten prefilter life not dissolved solids. High TSS if allowed to get to the membrane such as with poor quality prefilters and carbons will affect membrane life though. Learn the difference Phixion, shame on you.

Units such as the Water General/Filters Direct or whatever name they are using at the time are not the same quality as others and the price you pay reflects this. Look for name brands on the housings like Ametek, on the fittings like John Guest, on the carbon like KX Industries Matrikx and other components. There is a difference in quality, workmanship and the testing and approval processes they are subjected to, a;; of which cost money and protect the consumer in the end.

 

Other examples besides Air Water & Ice and PurelyH2O are www.buckeyefieldsupply.com , www.spectrapure.com , www.bulkreefsupply.com among others, look at them all and compare apples to apples. If they don't specifically tell you what you are getting up front look elsewhere.

[Phixion]

None of the companies tell you exactly who makes each component in the system. Filters are what really matters when it comes down to it, not the housings being used. I have heard NO issues of housings failing or breaking under normal use in the reef community. Your propeganda beyond filter quality and membranes is pretty fruitless. And high TDS water will general yield a high TSS count as well. But high TDS is harder on components period, especially the membrane which has to filter it all out anyways. John Guest is quick fittings, manual fittings are not sub quality, just a way to lighten the cost on a part you'll probably never have to pull apart frequently if any in the first place. You only need John Guest fittings if you plan on taking it apart often. Did I mention that Water General uses Matrikx carbon filters?? Yeah, they aren't any more expensive priced than other generic filters which are probably still made by them anyways. Your claim of Water General keeps sinking further and further sorry to tell you. So GE membrane, Matrikx filters, why the hate on WG? Is it because they are sold on Ebay?? LOL! Is it because Russ doesn't sell them? Is it because you have a poor ASSumption of a product you obviously know NOTHING about? It's ok AZ, you can tell the truth here and we won't judge you.

 

Anyways ezsalt, the others that AZ mentioned at the bottom of his last post are all also great RO/DI brands, they will for sure run you more money for them, especially SpectraPure's which is no less than $250 per unit, almost $400 if you get the MaxCap system. Functionality wise, it operates NO different than the systems I mentioned, nor will it yield any cleaner water (because you can't get better than 0 TDS, lol!) so really you won't go wrong with the other systems.

 

I think the jist here, is stay away from the Pure Water Club units and invest a little more in something better. Yes other members on here have bought their systems are and happy with them (so far anyways) but even myself who always shops for the best deal, wouldn't get that system because it really is inferior with generic parts and it's price oughta tell you something isn't right either with it. Either way you go here on this, good luck!

[Pammy]

has anyone use the Merlin Point of use system that makes up to 750 gal/day. Is the water quality good enough foR A REEF SYSTEM?

[AZDesertRat]

Why do you ASSume higher TDS water is also higher in TSS ? Thats not the case. Phoenix water is extremely high TDS but the turbidity is extremely low so low TSS. Efficient treatment for suspendeds. New York on the opposite end of the spectrum has extremely low TDS waters, often in to 50 TDS or less range but the TSS or suspended solids are through the roof. Little tretament due to their protected reservoir system and watershed and being grandfathered in by the EPA. In todays world this would never happen.

 

The Merlin is high capacity but only about 90% rejection so it would be hard on DI resins if your TDS is very high. You would be better off with a pumped system with much higher removal efficiency.

[ezsalt73]

Thanks for all the info. I think I am going to get the mighty mite. I called my water company and they said my line pressure should be around 60 psi. Will that be enough for the mighty mite to function correctly?

[AZDesertRat]

Yes. It should deliver its rated 75 GPD at 50 psi and 77 degree F water temperature. If one of the other is lower or higher than 50 and 77 the output will vary up or down. Higher pressure will offset lower temperature so you should be in good shape.

[Phixion]

You should be satisfied with the Mighty Mite system, ezsalt.

 

AZ, I'm not assuming anything. I'm speaking for water in my area which I've personally tested. I'd deem it safe to say the TSS is on the high side when you can physically SEE calcious deposits coming out of water fountains, even more evident when adding dyes to the sampled water to highlight this. Again, you know NOTHING of the water where I'm from. Also TSS is completely independant from what your water company is telling you unless they are telling you the readings as it comes out of your personal tap. 90 year old water mains can add tons of TSS junk into the water.

[AZDesertRat]

Thats true but a god unidirectional flushing program takes care of that. You won't teach me anything, I have been a certified water system operator for 35 years and now teach operators and engineers for a living. Give up you won't win.

[Scott Riemer]

Thats true but a god unidirectional flushing program takes care of that. You won't teach me anything, I have been a certified water system operator for 35 years and now teach operators and engineers for a living. Give up you won't win.

You're right, you win at being arrogant. You simply can't comprehend that people have successfully used units you consider unsatisfactory because they aren't some expensive elite brand.

[Phixion]

Thats true but a god unidirectional flushing program takes care of that. You won't teach me anything, I have been a certified water system operator for 35 years and now teach operators and engineers for a living. Give up you won't win.

 

Wrong. Again you don't know the water inferstructure where I live and WORK (I'm in the utility industry too, yes) and you won't win trying to compare places you've worked with when ALL places are different. Sorry, I may not win buy you won't win either cowboy! 35 years this and 35 years that doesn't mean anything in a new and unknown territory to you. Unidirectional flushing won't take care of over 100 year old caked on calcium and deposits stuck to the insides of "12+ diameter mains, c'mon YOU of all people should already know this.

[ezsalt73]

I am going to get the mighty mite. It looks like a good deal.

[GioReef]

I have the Mighty Mite with DI and it is great. I have 140 ppm tds water and it gets it down to zero and haven't replaced the filters in 6 months. So still going strong. If you only need just a little water at a time(1-10) gallons, the MM is great

[uwwmatt]

I just got the MM in the mail today. It took me all of 10 minutes to set up, and it is currently running. I live in an apartment so the small size and faucet attachments made this the perfect unit. The $110 price tag wasn't to bad either.

[Bamato]

I'm not sure if this is still on topic, but I've been running the purewaterclub drinking/reef system for two months now. It produces very well and I am extremely satisfied so far. I say so far because I haven't needed any filter replacements yet, and I'm only topping off a 14g BC with it. The water measures 0 TDS on the DI side, and about 22 on the RO side, tastes very nice I live in AZ as well, so the water out here is very hard and smells heavily chlorinated and it does a great job

 

I do have to mention though that with it coming pre-assembled you need to check all the fittings. They do use cheapo nylon fittings that they either over-tightened, or under-tightened and I had a few leak. Most I fixed with some teflon tape. Two I decided to replace with quality brass fittings instead

 

Overall though, extremely worth it when compared to some of the higher priced units I couldn't afford

[Phixion]

Careful with brassm if it's on the input side you're ok, I wouldn't use brass on the output side however.

 

With my Water General unit, ALL fittings came wrapped in teflon tape, so no leaks out of the box which was a plus, shows they know what they are doing and what will prevent leaks. That's good your PWC system is working out well for you though. I think the concern with them was with the filters/membranes they use for their systems. AZrat being from AZ of course can tell you in depth about your water supply.

 

Uwwmatt, good to hear the MM was a perfect choice for you! I have the MM w/ DI unit here at my house, but it's boxed up to give away for a raffle with our next local reef club gathering. But I was quite amazed at the unit when I took a look at it. Ver nice and compact and comes with all fittings you need to make it portable and efficient. Airwaterice is a great company for sure!!

[cptbjorn]

I'm thinking about getting one of the 100gpd pure water club units, it appears to me like the filters are standard sized so can't I just replace the filters with better quality ones when they go bad if I am unhappy with how well the stock ones performed? Seems to me like any unit I could buy is going to become just a similar series of plastic housings once it comes time to do the first filter change, so might as well get whichever setup gives me the best price for those housings?

[AZDesertRat]

Brass fittings are not advisable on RO/DI units especially after RO and never after DI. Brass is an alloy containing copper and RO and DI water are very agressive always trying to attract the things we have filtered out.

Some may argue but housings are not all the same. I have a pile of cracked housings and lids which were all replaced with name brand Amatek units. Name brand manufacturers spend the necessary money to have their housings tested and certified by ANSI/NSF and the UPC which means they can stand working pressures of 125 psi and burst strength many times that. The plastics from China are crap simply put. Brittle and inferior. If they are not a name you recognize ask the vendor who makes them and if they are ANSI/NSF certified, if not find another vendor. Just because theylook the same visibly doesn't mean they are the same. Ask some of the more well know vendors how many housings they sell as replacements to buyers who bought unknow systems and how many they sell as replacements for their own systems.

[johnlvs2run]

TDS has little to do with how long the filters last, its TSS or suspended solids and particulates that shorten prefilter life not dissolved solids. High TSS if allowed to get to the membrane such as with poor quality prefilters and carbons will affect membrane life though.

 

Is there a low cost meter that will measure the TSS in the water?

[AZDesertRat]

No. Normally a measured amount of water containing suspended solids is drawn through a filter paper with a vacuum pump, dried in an oven and weighed with a very precise scale to arrive at suspended solids content.

 

Suspended solids are removed by the prefilter so they are not really an issue unless you use low quality prefilters in which case they plug or foul the carbon block. If the carbon is granular or low quality/ high micron then you may have problems with the membrane fouling. It all comes down to using quality components.

[johnlvs2run]

AZDesertRat, thanks for your impressive quick reply.

 

The city tds here is 357 (294-432), has been as high as 700 in previous reports.

 

The city treated water turbidity (ntu) is .06, and state water is 3 (.04-17).

 

I'm wondering if this is a relatively low amount, that should be easier on the filters.

[AZDesertRat]

The TDS is higher than average with about 250 being the norm nationwide. Turbidity is good though.

The TDS is not high enough to be a problem for an RO though and should be a snap to reduce or remove.

[johnlvs2run]

The TDS is higher than average with about 250 being the norm nationwide. Turbidity is good though.

The TDS is not high enough to be a problem for an RO though and should be a snap to reduce or remove.

 

AZDesertRat, thanks much for your feedback.

 

There has been a foul taste in the water, either from the tank or the spigot. The post membrane tds is 20, a 93% reduction with a permeate pump and 90% asov. This is one of the horrenduous filterdirect systems. At the beginning (May, 2009) the spigot tds was up to 135. They advertised 97-98% reduction, but when I kept emailing that 88% was the highest it was getting they said that was good.

 

The permeate pump helped a lot and I'm ready to replace the prefilters and membrane, but have been trying to figure out what is causing the bad taste. Also there is a red slime that is left in sinks from the water. I called the water quality guy at the city who said he didn't know what it was, however the city water has fluoride and chloramines. This is the water quality report pdf.

http://www.ci.santa-maria.ca.us/3112-Annua...alityReport.pdf

 

I'm planning to get a 1 micron sediment, two 1 micron carbon block filters and a 98% membrane. After that is working well, I want to add a DI cannister. I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this but wanted to ask about the TSS. Thanks.