Tigahboy Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 FTS. and the full sized attachment. Quote Link to comment
mew Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 wow looking great as always. i still need to pick up a zoomed 501 myself. Quote Link to comment
timdanger Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 These dendros look like punks! i am very late on this (going back through this thread for overflow help and happened upon this), but don't they look more like mcdonald's french fries? Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Another group photo. my desktop says thank you. Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 i am very late on this (going back through this thread for overflow help and happened upon this), but don't they look more like mcdonald's french fries? Haha. They definitely got a similar color scheme. my desktop says thank you. Sorry, guys. Not a lot to update at the moment. I am SUPER SUPER busy with work AGAIN! And I won't be able to update as frequently. Hopefully things will quiet down in the new year. Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Sorry, guys. Not a lot to update at the moment. I am SUPER SUPER busy with work AGAIN! And I won't be able to update as frequently. Hopefully things will quiet down in the new year. no worry's, thread has pleanty to go back over already. read and learn right. Quote Link to comment
timdanger Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 After using these for a while, what is your opinion of the Eheim 1262 and the herbie drain system? Would you still choose the same setup if you were starting today? I read on your overflow diagrams thread that you were maybe thinking of downgrading the return pump. are you still thinking about doing that? I've got a 39g for which I've just replaced the stock pump (~750gph) for the Eheim 1262, and it has just created all sorts of havoc (from a super-loud durso to vibrations through the entire tank). I was thinking that I was going to replace the durso with a herbie, but now I'm just kind of thinking, if I'm going to be purchasing a vortech down the road anyway, why spend all that money on a high gph return pump that i just have to come up with ways to slow down (redirecting flow to sump, adding elbows, etc.)? The herbie makes a lot of sense to me if you're starting from scratch, but because I only have two bulkheads in my tank, i'd end up having to run the return over the top of the tank (or drill a new hole), and it just seems like such a hassle for a benefit I can't exactly identify. anyway, i'm just looking to hear your opinion on your equipment/plumbing, especially given the fact that you've got that mp40 (i'm probably going to opt for the mp10 or mp20, myself). Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 After using these for a while, what is your opinion of the Eheim 1262 and the herbie drain system? Would you still choose the same setup if you were starting today? I read on your overflow diagrams thread that you were maybe thinking of downgrading the return pump. are you still thinking about doing that? I've got a 39g for which I've just replaced the stock pump (~750gph) for the Eheim 1262, and it has just created all sorts of havoc (from a super-loud durso to vibrations through the entire tank). I was thinking that I was going to replace the durso with a herbie, but now I'm just kind of thinking, if I'm going to be purchasing a vortech down the road anyway, why spend all that money on a high gph return pump that i just have to come up with ways to slow down (redirecting flow to sump, adding elbows, etc.)? The herbie makes a lot of sense to me if you're starting from scratch, but because I only have two bulkheads in my tank, i'd end up having to run the return over the top of the tank (or drill a new hole), and it just seems like such a hassle for a benefit I can't exactly identify. anyway, i'm just looking to hear your opinion on your equipment/plumbing, especially given the fact that you've got that mp40 (i'm probably going to opt for the mp10 or mp20, myself). Dude. My bad for taking so long to respond... But if I could do it again, I would just go with the 1260 instead of the 1262. Since I have the vortech, having a higher rated return pump is unnecessary. With regard to the benefit of the herbie, I will say the herbie is definitely more silent than the durso... But if you can handle the durso, then who cares, right? It's a matter of what you feel comfortable with doing. Both will get the job done functionally speaking. But if noise is an issue for you, then definitely consider using the 2 holes for a herbie. Having a return go up and over into the tank isn't really a big deal. Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 (edited) tigah with as many tanks as you have run in the last couple of years, I thought would ask for your opinion on setup befor i begin my new biuld. espacialy in regards to this tank vs your previous tank with the closed loop from a seaswirl. are you finding there to be large diffrences in preformance between the setups such as groth rate, sand movment, detruis biuld up. can you see any reason to do the closed loop over the vortech. as always thank you for your time & knowledge, jp. edit: no worrys on the speedy reply this hobby's about patience, right. Edited December 22, 2009 by bitts Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 tigah with as many tanks as you have run in the last couple of years, I thought would ask for your opinion on setup befor i begin my new biuld. espacialy in regards to this tank vs your previous tank with the closed loop from a seaswirl. are you finding there to be large diffrences in preformance between the setups such as groth rate, sand movment, detruis biuld up. can you see any reason to do the closed loop over the vortech. as always thank you for your time & knowledge, jp. edit: no worrys on the speedy reply this hobby's about patience, right. I've fiddled around quite a bit with closed loops in the past. And I think having a vortech (or 2) is definitely preferable. It's quieter, more energy efficient, and less overall maintenance. It's been quite some time since I had that 67g with a closed loop, but I think I had a good amount of flow with the closed loop (definitely was sufficient for SPS), but it was loud as heck, used up a lot of electricity and a ton of pipes to deal with. Vortechs are just dang expensive tho, and I wish they were cheaper. But aside from the price tag, I love my vortech. I really don't have any dead spots and I love being able to adjust the flow rates. Can't really do that with a closed loop. I can't really speak to growth rates and such since I've only had the vortech for 6+ months. Quote Link to comment
bluenassarius Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 your tank roars greatness Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Thanks. But I've been having some difficulty with keeping aussie acans. I think I'm done with them now... Everything else is thriving, except for my aussie acans. Never had this much trouble trying to keep acan lords alive before. In any event, I'm not gonna risk it anymore, so my tank will be aussie acan free for the most part now. :/ Quote Link to comment
bluenassarius Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Thanks. But I've been having some difficulty with keeping aussie acans. I think I'm done with them now... Everything else is thriving, except for my aussie acans. Never had this much trouble trying to keep acan lords alive before. In any event, I'm not gonna risk it anymore, so my tank will be aussie acan free for the most part now. :/ i've been having issues with mines also. how much flow are you blasting em w/? do you feel your light is too intense for them? i had a issue w/ them receding a few months back. they're stabilized now. Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Yeah, i thought maybe it was flow or light. So they were moved to a low light, low flow area. Still no good. Params are all fine... I thought maybe some kind of bacterial infection. So I dipped in Iodine and Revive. Still no good. Mystery to me. Quote Link to comment
bitts Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 tigah thanks for the quick reply. was thinkin bout the pros n cons for both. and realized that the vortech is, at least the 10, is about the same price as the closed loop pump, electricity, plumbing, bit n peace's. so figer it comes down more to things like controlabilty of flow, growth rates, and what not. as you point out one of the things I have been overlooking is simplisity. the vortech wins hands down. thanks tigah also sorry to hear about the acans, the looked great, almost had me wanting some. and idont like acans very much. just shows the quality of your tank. Quote Link to comment
Sushi Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Don't feel bad about the Aussie Acans, not only you are having trouble. I've had Aussie Acans do fine for 3 or 4 months, then one day suddenly recess only to melt to skeleton one week later. No other inhabitants in the tank show signs of distress when this happens, and tank params stay consistent with target values. I stopped on collecting some Aussie Acans as well because of this, never had problems with the Indo colonies... dunno what's up? Quote Link to comment
oceanbreeze Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 when i see your tank tigah i always feel like im in a sweet shop!!! so much to look at beautiful, but you know that(my fav tank)dont tell anyone!!! brill!! Quote Link to comment
eswong Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Added some new equipment. Switched out my MJ1200 on my ATO with an aqualifter. I do feel safer now. Also added a ZooMed 501 turtle filter to run my chemipure. The chemipure fit perfectly. Thanks for the recommendation, mew! Tigah, 2 questions: 1st Why switch to the aqualifter?I have the same ato and am using a Mj1200. 2nd Are you running any thing else in that little 501? I am digging it, all of it. Quote Link to comment
adinsxq Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 your tank roars greatness yes Quote Link to comment
rroselavy Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Why switch to the aqualifter?I have the same ato and am using a Mj1200. For me, using an Aqualifter has three advantages: 1) If your float switch gets stuck on, the incoming water is pumped at a 3gph rate rather than a 400gph rate. I have a second float switch for redundancy, but still... 2) If your ATO controller has an overfill timer (so it does not constantly power on/off your pump), then the Aqualifter will keep your water level more constant. This really only is an advantage in sumps where your ATO feeds into the same compartment as the skimmer. 3) The Aqualifter provides a more appropriate feed rate for a Kalk mixer. You still have to add a ball valve and bleed the feed to get the drip rate just right, but it is much easier and less bulky to do this with 1/4" john guest fittings. Quote Link to comment
eswong Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 For me, using an Aqualifter has three advantages: 1) If your float switch gets stuck on, the incoming water is pumped at a 3gph rate rather than a 400gph rate. I have a second float switch for redundancy, but still... 2) If your ATO controller has an overfill timer (so it does not constantly power on/off your pump), then the Aqualifter will keep your water level more constant. This really only is an advantage in sumps where your ATO feeds into the same compartment as the skimmer. 3) The Aqualifter provides a more appropriate feed rate for a Kalk mixer. You still have to add a ball valve and bleed the feed to get the drip rate just right, but it is much easier and less bulky to do this with 1/4" john guest fittings. I have constant power to my ATO, It only kicks on a few times a day, again its powered by a Mj1200. If I switched to an aqualifter would it be kick on more ofter?, or for a longer amount of time?, would you consider it quieter then a Mj1200? Logically it would stay on longer, and pump slower, is this necessarily better? Does running an aqualifter dry damage it? Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment
rroselavy Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 (edited) I have constant power to my ATO, It only kicks on a few times a day, again its powered by a Mj1200. If I switched to an aqualifter would it be kick on more ofter?, or for a longer amount of time?, would you consider it quieter then a Mj1200? Logically it would stay on longer, and pump slower, is this necessarily better? Does running an aqualifter dry damage it? Thanks for the reply. It would kick on more often because during the overfill timer duration of the ATO controller, it would overfill less. For example, my Reef Fanatic ATO controller fills about 5 seconds longer than it needs to. If I had a MJ1200, this 5 extra seconds would mean a lot more water than a Aqualifter. This also means that the water level in the return area of the sump (and thus tank salinity) remains more constant with the Aqualifter. Quieter than a MJ1200? I think so. The Aqualifter is a very low vibrating hum that is impossible to hear over a skimmer or return pump. I have accidentally let me Aqualifter run dry on my QT a few times for hours. Does not seem to affect pump. The downside of the Aqualifters is that you cannot pump kalkwasser, saltwater or other additives through the pump since they will interfere with the seal of the pump's diaphragm. I only use the Aqualifter for pumping RODI, but a prefilter is available for the pump so that any small bits of debris will be caught before reaching the pump. Hijack mode off. Edited December 23, 2009 by rroselavy Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 (edited) Don't feel bad about the Aussie Acans, not only you are having trouble. I've had Aussie Acans do fine for 3 or 4 months, then one day suddenly recess only to melt to skeleton one week later. No other inhabitants in the tank show signs of distress when this happens, and tank params stay consistent with target values. I stopped on collecting some Aussie Acans as well because of this, never had problems with the Indo colonies... dunno what's up? Yeah, I definitely didn't have this prob with the indos from back in the day. The good ol' days. when i see your tank tigah i always feel like im in a sweet shop!!! so much to look at beautiful, but you know that(my fav tank)dont tell anyone!!! brill!! Thanks! Tigah, 2 questions: 1st Why switch to the aqualifter?I have the same ato and am using a Mj1200. 2nd Are you running any thing else in that little 501? I am digging it, all of it. Looks like rroselavy answered all your questions regarding the aqualifter already. But yes, it's a matter of adding FW more slowly. If my float switches malfunctioned and I noticed it 10 minutes later, the difference b/t having an aqualifter and an mj1200 is a matter of a few cups of FW versus my entire water reservoir of FW. Also when I do water changes, I often forget to turn off my float switch and instead of having freshwater rushing in via my mj1200, I just have a few drip drip drips before I remember to unplug the ATO. The 501 only has room for 1 bag of chemipure. yes TY, sir. Hijack mode off. Thanks for taking care of bidness while I was away. haha. Edited December 23, 2009 by Tigahboy Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 Oh, and here are the new kids on the block! Holla! Quote Link to comment
Tigahboy Posted December 25, 2009 Author Share Posted December 25, 2009 Merry Christmas, reefers! Quote Link to comment
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