dvsclownfish1 Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Evil I was wunderin if you saw the new article on r$$f bu!lder$ and what par 38 bulbs would work best for a 84" x 28" x24" tall if set up like this or if it would work at all. How many and what kind of par could I expect from this type of setup. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
savageajc Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 does anyone know the size of rapidled stars? i am hoping to put 3 rows of 6 cree xp-g and xp-e stars on the nanotuners fluval heatsink in this layout: rb cw rb cw rb cw cw rb cw rb cw rb rb cw rb cw rb cw on the ends you have : RB ---> CW CW ---> RB RB ---> CW IME one side ends up looking bluer than the other. anyone else have the same problem? Quote Link to comment
herranton Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I was just browsing dx and saw this. Maybe someone will be able to use it. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-90w...n%20full%20view Quote Link to comment
tinkerer Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 i read through several of the build threads which focus on the 3w leds. i was wondering if anyone has ever had experience with the following type of led? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-10W-Cool-White...#ht_3270wt_1270 i have it linked so as to include the readings they claim. this would be over a 10 gallon tank as far as depth. and it would be an array with a couple blues and whites. thanks Quote Link to comment
redfishsc Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I've seen some single LED heatsinks being sold here and there that have a huge hole in the center of the heatsink. RapidLED for example. This seems very unintuitive. That big hole is exactly where the LED is on the star, and that's where the heat is. Right? I was just browsing dx and saw this. Maybe someone will be able to use it. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-90w...n%20full%20view It would work fine for running DC-input drivers like Buckpucks. Not good at all for direct driving LEDs. Quote Link to comment
Sherman Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Remember there is a PWM circuit by Evil.But just cannot find the circuit any more. Anyone can help Quote Link to comment
Small Frag Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Ok I would like to make a heat sink that uses a piece of aluminum C-channel 22"x8" that I could either weld or bolt to a smaller real heat sink and use thermal glue. Would this be a good idea or totally bogus? Quote Link to comment
Small Frag Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 ok seriously I would like some help.... Quote Link to comment
petkingdom619 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Would I be able to get an led light for a 24 gallon for under $100? I'm also kind of curious if these leds for reef tanks are the same as indoor plant grow lights? Appreciate any help you guys can give Quote Link to comment
blasterman Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Yes, same as plant lights. A smaller heatsink does make sense when bolted directly to the back of thinner plate aluminum *if* it's driectly in back of LEDs. Quote Link to comment
Stuginski Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hello master Evilc66...I´m back!!!!! How are you? Finally...after almost a year...I posted the pictures of my reef with your lighting system....How can I include my post in you list of diy led fixtures???? Here is my link, I will post soon the lighting details. I hope you enjoy the results: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=283698 Hails from Brazil... D. Quote Link to comment
daniel_sweden Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hello LED gurus! This is a fantastic thread and forum! I have one question. I have found this heat sink: http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-Suppl...95_106_114.html I think that would be enough for 1 3W cree at 700mA? Would if even be enough if I cut it in two pieces, so the height becomes 25mm? Then I could cool 2 3W cree from one of these. Thanks in advance for any advice! /Daniel Quote Link to comment
evilc66 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 Ok I would like to make a heat sink that uses a piece of aluminum C-channel 22"x8" that I could either weld or bolt to a smaller real heat sink and use thermal glue. Would this be a good idea or totally bogus? Depending on the size of the c-channel, how many LEDs, and the current they are run at, you can use just the c-channel as a heatsink. Typically, they rely on airflow from a fan to keep cool, but it's certainly an option. Hello master Evilc66...I´m back!!!!! How are you? Finally...after almost a year...I posted the pictures of my reef with your lighting system....How can I include my post in you list of diy led fixtures???? Here is my link, I will post soon the lighting details. I hope you enjoy the results: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=283698 Hails from Brazil... D. Looks good. Just post a few pictures and a link in that thread, and I'll add it to the list on the first page. Hello LED gurus! This is a fantastic thread and forum! I have one question. I have found this heat sink: http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-Suppl...95_106_114.html I think that would be enough for 1 3W cree at 700mA? Would if even be enough if I cut it in two pieces, so the height becomes 25mm? Then I could cool 2 3W cree from one of these. Thanks in advance for any advice! /Daniel Even cut in half, that should be more than enough to run a single LED at 700mA. Quote Link to comment
Fredwininger Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Evil, Thanks for the awesome guide. I learned alot but still have many questions. I have looked at the bridgelux LEDs as a less expensive alternative to CREE. With all the other disadvantages aside, can you tell me how their white 4500K, 6500K and 10,000K compare to the CREE cool white and neutral white? Is there a CREE version of the 10,000K? I have seen many threads where people get purely 10,000K as their their only white LED. What type of ratio of these white would you recommend getting if one were to choose this LED. I apologize if this has been asked before...couldn't find it in the thread. Thanks, Fred Quote Link to comment
evilc66 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 I don't recommend getting anything over 6500K honestly, regardless of the manufacturer. Typically, you only see them from the Chinese manufacturers, and will wash out colors badly. Color temperature is an odd measurement. There are a billion ways to make a color temperature, so even though they may claim to be the same as another LED, they most likely are not the same spectrally. Chinese manufacturers have a hard time getting whites right, and will typically have a green or slightly purple cast to them. That's not to say that other manufacturers like Cree and Lumileds don't have the same issues, but they are typically to a much lesser degree, and only visible on tighter lens angles (flashlight guys see this issues a lot more than we do). Quote Link to comment
Fredwininger Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Thanks Evil! Quote Link to comment
shepherd Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 So I have 2 Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers running 12 white and 14 royal blue cree leds. I also have a dimmer I'm wiring in. (I'm doing some re-wiring at the moment to place the dimmer better.) I'm just curious, could I run both divers off of the same 110v power cable and then re-calibrate the driver or do I need 110v to both? Oh, I also need to wire in the 2 stock (Red Sea Max) fans as well (.12A). Thoughts from the master?? (or any other masters out there?) Quote Link to comment
Division50 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Thought I'd chip in with the project over here. I can't release all the details about how we're getting this kind of output or what chips we're using.. but.. I can post some teasers. shows the test board size. a center row of blue LEDs will be added later. shows how thin the board is and why we DON'T need heat sinks. Shows how efficient the board is.. this is running off of a Makita battery... less than 750mA draw at 12VDC for the entire array. In the test BioCUBE 29 Before the dust settled from putting in the LR.. but you get the idea... Quote Link to comment
castiel Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 This looks like it could be a revolutionary product, wow. So thin! Quote Link to comment
shepherd Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 I don't recommend getting anything over 6500K honestly, regardless of the manufacturer. Typically, you only see them from the Chinese manufacturers, and will wash out colors badly. Color temperature is an odd measurement. There are a billion ways to make a color temperature, so even though they may claim to be the same as another LED, they most likely are not the same spectrally. Chinese manufacturers have a hard time getting whites right, and will typically have a green or slightly purple cast to them. That's not to say that other manufacturers like Cree and Lumileds don't have the same issues, but they are typically to a much lesser degree, and only visible on tighter lens angles (flashlight guys see this issues a lot more than we do). I second evil on this. Just I have a set of cree xr-e cool whites, meant to balance out the royal blues on my set up and it really washes out the color even when at their lowest current. I thought I wanted that temp for the growth, but I'll be dropping down to some neutral whites to see how this looks. I wish I could mix some various color/temp leds on the same string, but I'm pretty sure I've read that is a bad, bad thing... Quote Link to comment
pmac43 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 I've got a tank that is 12" tall. I reeeeaaalllyyy wanna do LED lights but don't think I could figure out how to DIY it. So I'm looking at this light from aquatraders: http://www.aquatraders.com/LED-Reef-Bright-p/56213.htm Would this light be enough for corals? I'd probably just stick to softs. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Not sure if it's been brought up, but I just saw these PAR20 bulbs that are dimmable. http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/PAR20-LED...6-Watt-Cree.php 3 Cree XREs. Only problem is they don't have a royal blue in there. Quote Link to comment
ajgouty Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 Not sure if it's been brought up, but I just saw these PAR20 bulbs that are dimmable. http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/PAR20-LED...6-Watt-Cree.php 3 Cree XREs. Only problem is they don't have a royal blue in there. Yeah these are yellow. Even if someone was to supplement with a significant amount of blue, it will still not produce a nice popping color Quote Link to comment
mmcguffi Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 (edited) huh nice find DHaut maybe Im mistaken, but wouldnt these be a great solution for lighting in the Fluval Edge? http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/MR16-LED-...9-Watt-Cree.php You could just buy two and switch them out with the stocks. Blue would still need to be supplemented somehow but it seems like a good idea for all of those people looking for plug and play Yeah these are yellow. Even if someone was to supplement with a significant amount of blue, it will still not produce a nice popping color yea I guess 5300K is quite warm. still seems like these could be used somehow... Edited November 29, 2011 by mmcguffi Quote Link to comment
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