LED MeanWell power supply?

[trag19]

Nice find. That could make life easier, especially as a DIP package.

 

Thank you. IIRC, the link I posted at Mouser is for the DIP package. Digikey has them listed as a non-stocked item but also has 500-some in stock. :-)

 

Looks like the output is ratiometric based on the input voltage.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "ratiometric based on the input voltage". I think this is the important part of the datasheet:

===================================

Each circuit will shift a low-voltage digital-logic input signal (A, B, C, D)

with logical 1 = VCC and logical 0 = VSS to a higher voltage output signal (E, F, G, H) with logical 1 =

VDD and logical 0 = VSS.

===================================

 

My understanding is that VCC and VDD are separate power-in pins on the chip. So you supply VCC at whatever level your IN logic is using. And supply VDD at whatever level you want your OUT logic to be at. In this specific case, we'd set VCC to whatever the microcontroller is using and set VDD to 10V, assuming there aren't any internal diode drops. It bears some testing whether the output logic 1 is really VDD or a little below VDD.

 

The output is limited to 100mW per output, but 200mW per package. At 3mA (average draw from the Meanwell), you are looking at about 120mW for 4 channels.

 

Ah, nice. I missed that part. So the Meanwell's draw 3mA X 10V = 30 mW each. So if one wishes to drive multiple Meanwell's from the same microcontroller pin, do not gang up more than three of them on a single channel of this level shifter, and maybe no more than two to be safe. Also, put no more than six (6) Meanwells on the level shifter total, regardless of how many channels one is using.

[trag19]

Nice find. That could make life easier, especially as a DIP package.

 

Here's an even nicer version (cheaper, 6 channels, no "Enable" pins to tie high, and 500mW output rating), except I cannot find it available in the DIP package. Mouser has the TSSOP in stock and claims that they have the DIP on order:

 

TI CD4504 at Mouser

 

 

Datasheet for the CD4504 from TI

[Ron99]

Some good suggestions but I just went with a couple general purpose FETs (part# IRFZ44) as I could get those easily at a local electronics supplier. I think each one should easily be able to handle 4 meanwells as it looks like they can take up to 50A.

[therman]

For those reading this thread who may not run across this one as easily...

 

Cheap easy dimming for ELN-60-48D

 

Basically it's just a well regulated 9v wall wart power supply that can power 10k pots in parallel to dim one or many D type ELN Meanwells. I just rigged up boards to dim 8 D's independently. As much soldering as that required I'm fairly certain I would have shot myself if I had to do LM317 circuits.

 

Due to the adjustability of SVR2, 9.2V will allow you to run your D's at 1000mA and higher.

[jm82792]

Have people been burning up their MeanWells like they have been with buckpucks when using PWM using say an arduino?

I'd like to hook my arduino up for the heck of it,

make a timer of it and what not......

If I can dim them wouldn't it be as easy as adding the output of arduino PWM,

then wiring it up to the MeanWells PWM?

Then mess around with the duty cycle(um whatver it's called )

to get the dimming I want?

 

the p series need pwm to dim. the d series uses a 1-10v signal for dimming. the d's imho would be easier to wire up for dimming, either variable voltage or using an alc controller from a reefkeeper lite/elite. the p series would be better if you were using an arduino controller or something.

 

you would have to either order 220 versions or rewire them, I'm sure it would be that difficult.

[sammy113]

Have people been burning up their MeanWells like they have been with buckpucks when using PWM using say an arduino?

I'd like to hook my arduino up for the heck of it,

make a timer of it and what not......

If I can dim them wouldn't it be as easy as adding the output of arduino PWM,

then wiring it up to the MeanWells PWM?

Then mess around with the duty cycle(um whatver it's called )

to get the dimming I want?

 

Yes you can. Is not as easy as just hooking up PWM pins in Arduino to the meanwell. Requires a little more cause you need 10V max out from the Arduino PWM. Also if you want it to work automatically will need a real time clock.

[jm82792]

I can't use a realtime clock out here because we don't get the signal.

But I was thinking a clock I have to set alog with a small battery,

but for now I'd be happy with pushing a button, having the light slowly coming on and such....

What do you mean by you "need 10V max out from the Arduino PWM"

Does the PWM need some work to be done to it's output to work?

I know some basics(coding, reading schematics, semiconductor basics ....) but I have not read a whole lot of arduino and Cree array stuff.

[pyronus]

I can't use a realtime clock out here because we don't get the signal.

But I was thinking a clock I have to set alog with a small battery,

but for now I'd be happy with pushing a button, having the light slowly coming on and such....

What do you mean by you "need 10V max out from the Arduino PWM"

Does the PWM need some work to be done to it's output to work?

I know some basics(coding, reading schematics, semiconductor basics ....) but I have not read a whole lot of arduino and Cree array stuff.

a Real time clock is an IC, it uses a battery and tracks date and time, instead of using the onboard crystal oscilator to keep time. Its less complex. You can buy one already made from sparkfun.

[sammy113]

I can't use a realtime clock out here because we don't get the signal.

But I was thinking a clock I have to set alog with a small battery,

but for now I'd be happy with pushing a button, having the light slowly coming on and such....

What do you mean by you "need 10V max out from the Arduino PWM"

Does the PWM need some work to be done to it's output to work?

I know some basics(coding, reading schematics, semiconductor basics ....) but I have not read a whole lot of arduino and Cree array stuff.

The Real Time Clock (RTC) is the red thing you see in the pic above. It has a built in battery and you can set real time and date so it keeps the time running even when the Arduino is not plugged in.

 

Meanwell drivers (P & D) models need 10V in the Dim wires in order to operate.

Arduino works with less than that so that means you won't get full power through the PWM pins. It needs some work to get full power out of it.

[elliottargyle]

I've been running mine for several months now on the D model and the ALC finally works on my RKL. It actually dims fine, well its more of an exponential curve barely fading over about 45 minutes then the last 15 minutes it dims pretty darn quick. Has anyone else noticed with 0v in the 0-10v input the royal blues stay on very dim? I've been through this entire thread and nobody mentions it but I noticed someone else in another forum did. I was annoyed by the stupid flash when A/C power is killed and Evil told me to leave the Meanwells on 24/7 but with the royal blues staying on I cant.

 

Do you have any pics of how you wired your ALC to the drivers?...or better yet any diagrams or schematics. I have the RKL with the ALC and I'm waiting on my LED's. Let me know if you have any of these. Thanks!

 

argyle

 

Mine flashed when AC power was turned off for a short while but they don't do it now... that I notice, at least. I have mine on a timer and both the Meanwell and to 10v power input goes off at the same time.

 

 

 

My dimmer is an analog potentiometer, and there is definitely the exponential curve you mention, as I crank it up and down. little brighter.....little brighter...little brighter...little brighter.....little brighter..... a LOT BRIGHTER..REALLY BRIGHT.

 

 

I'm not sure how to stop the low-level light emitting when input is low, but mine do the exact same thing if I turn the dimmer all the way down. I don't think mine actually hits 0v, I think it goes down to 1 or 2v.

 

Now if I turn the input voltage totally off (ie, unplug the 10v power supply) then the LED's will dim and turn totally off over a 5-15 second "fade". They don't emit anything.

 

I asked another person this but,...do you have any pics, schematics, or diagrams of how you connected your meanwells to the ALC? If you could help that would be great!

 

argyle

 

Nope. Still haven't got my ALC to use for testing. It's been a little bit of a low priority recently.

 

Evil,

 

If you need and ALC module, you could use mine until I need it ! Let me know if you are interested....seriously!

 

argyle

[Giga]

evil in your opinion, what would be a better unit the P version or the D? I'm about to order drivers and either added circuit is not a big deal to me so if either are the same I might get one of each to test lol

[ianryeng]

evil in your opinion, what would be a better unit the P version or the D? I'm about to order drivers and either added circuit is not a big deal to me so if either are the same I might get one of each to test lol

 

If you refer to the datasheet for the meanwell drivers it suggests that the D has a wider more linear dimming range. Whether this is true or not I cannot say but I chose D's because of it. In reality you could use either PWM or analog to control them since you would just need to add a small cap to the output of the pwm to make it an analog signal anyway.

[sammy113]

Anyboday has an Arduino code working? I'm having a hard time getting mine to work. Keeps having Errors when trying to compile or Upload.

 

I just want Fade in and Out from 2 PWM Pins (one for each Meanwell) is that to much to ask?

[sae647]

For those of you looking to build the 0-10v analog dimmer for the "D" models, here is a diagram for you to follow. This will let you use anything from a 12-32v supply and still give you 1.25-10v output for the Meanwell.

 

 

So one person already asked it, but never got an answer. Is it possible to add a large capacitor anywhere in this circuit to get a morning sunrise? Would the same capacitor also provide a sunset, by continuing to provide power once 12V power supply is shut off?

 

edit - found my answer - page 28 of this thread. thanks evil.

[Freakin]

Anyboday has an Arduino code working? I'm having a hard time getting mine to work. Keeps having Errors when trying to compile or Upload.

 

I just want Fade in and Out from 2 PWM Pins (one for each Meanwell) is that to much to ask?

 

how are you converting the PWM voltage from 5v to 10v?

[sammy113]

how are you converting the PWM voltage from 5v to 10v?

I have a dimming shield which takes care of that (you can see it a few posts back). I use a 12V wall wart so the shield coverts to 5V and 10v

[pyronus]

I have a dimming shield which takes care of that (you can see it a few posts back). I use a 12V wall wart so the shield coverts to 5V and 10v

ygpm

[Freakin]

I have a dimming shield which takes care of that (you can see it a few posts back). I use a 12V wall wart so the shield coverts to 5V and 10v

 

How are you tying that shield into the PWM? I thought it was for variable voltage output for D type.

 

The VIN is from arduino digital pin or positive on wall wart?

[sammy113]

How are you tying that shield into the PWM? I thought it was for variable voltage output for D type.

 

The VIN is from arduino digital pin or positive on wall wart?

 

Everything fits right into the Arduino board just like a proto board. The Vin is from Arduino digital Pin

[Freakin]

Everything fits right into the Arduino board just like a proto board. The Vin is from Arduino digital Pin

 

Oh, the board labeled "ELN dimming shield"

 

Yeah I was looking at the LM317 with the pot and getting quite confused.

 

Is that shield available for public purchase yet?

[sammy113]

That shield is not commercially available. Its a DIY designed by a reefer from RC

[smilodon]

I am owning a bc14 with nanocustoms 3.24, media basket upgrade for 1 year, and

realize I need a big tank now. So I am starting the project of next tank design.

 

I want the marineland 24 x 24 x 18 or marineland 24 x 24 x 24 or customized 24 x 24 x 20 by LFS.

I'm still not sure I want overflow in the corner or in the back of the tank. Seems marineland cube with

overflow in the back of tank has some problem based on the experience of the owners on the internet.

 

I also want to use LED lights. the question is how many leds I need. I want to keep som SPS from middle

to the top of the tank, and bottom for LPS and sofies. I want to use Cree XR-E Q5. How many leds I need

for 18" high, 20" high and 24" high.

 

I also want to use meanwell drivers, two ELN-60-48 for 13 x 2 CW at 1000mA and one for 26 X 1 RB

at 700mA. 30 leds are good enough for 24" cube? Should I use any optics lens at 24" high tank? How about 20" and 18"?

 

thanks a lot.

[Crazy Tiki]

I am owning a bc14 with nanocustoms 3.24, media basket upgrade for 1 year, and

realize I need a big tank now. So I am starting the project of next tank design.

 

I want the marineland 24 x 24 x 18 or marineland 24 x 24 x 24 or customized 24 x 24 x 20 by LFS.

I'm still not sure I want overflow in the corner or in the back of the tank. Seems marineland cube with

overflow in the back of tank has some problem based on the experience of the owners on the internet.

 

I also want to use LED lights. the question is how many leds I need. I want to keep som SPS from middle

to the top of the tank, and bottom for LPS and sofies. I want to use Cree XR-E Q5. How many leds I need

for 18" high, 20" high and 24" high.

 

I also want to use meanwell drivers, two ELN-60-48 for 13 x 2 CW at 1000mA and one for 26 X 1 RB

at 700mA. 30 leds are good enough for 24" cube? Should I use any optics lens at 24" high tank? How about 20" and 18"?

 

thanks a lot.

 

Dude no offense, but this is not the right area to ask this, this topic relates to MEANWELL Drivers. Granted you are going to have MEANWELLs in your build, but you could of started your own thread.

[kidrobot]

Any updates on the circuit for the RKM-ALC evil?

 

thanks

[Freakin]

That shield is not commercially available. Its a DIY designed by a reefer from RC

 

I know I downloaded the eagle files from the google site. Just wondering if anyone had put together a batch of PCBs for print. He said he had a bunch of boards left over so I didn't know if he was selling them or what.