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LED MeanWell power supply?


zingtaw

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i think the d's people are adjusting the voltage to dim it correct? 10v being full power and less voltage dimming to a point.

 

i have no experence with these just from what i understand from reading all the posts in this thread.

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I appologize if these questions have already been asked but this thread is massive and I just don't have the time to go back through it.

 

Will the "D" models work at 100% with out a 10V source hooked up to the DIM? Much like a buck puck w/o a Pot?

 

Also, I see most people running 13 LEDs, but the spec sheet on ELN-60-48 shows a max of 52.8V, theoretically allowing us to "safely" push that up to 14 (14*3.7=51.8V). Is anyone doing this?

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No input voltage = no output (minimal light anyway)

 

Is this a response to the first of my two questions?

 

Nanotuners-

Thanks. See the questions/comments I've posted on that thread.

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I appologize if these questions have already been asked but this thread is massive and I just don't have the time to go back through it.

 

Will the "D" models work at 100% with out a 10V source hooked up to the DIM? Much like a buck puck w/o a Pot?

 

Also, I see most people running 13 LEDs, but the spec sheet on ELN-60-48 shows a max of 52.8V, theoretically allowing us to "safely" push that up to 14 (14*3.7=51.8V). Is anyone doing this?

the meanwells are the opposite of the buckpucks. a buckpuck will give you full power with no input. the meanwell will give you very little if no power without the 10v source. i will have to verify the with the data sheet on 14 LEDs but from what i know and like you said, 13 is max. unless you have a reef controller with a 10v source, you will need to go through the thread and find the 317lm circuit to reduce a 12v source down to 10v as well as give you the dimming option with a pot. there should be 2 on this thread. one is with a 555 timer specifically for the "p" models and another one with just for the "d" models. strt from pg 13. i think you will find it quicker.

 

hey Evil, you are still real quick!

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the meanwells are the opposite of the buckpucks. a buckpuck will give you full power with no input. the meanwell will give you very little if no power without the 10v source. i will have to verify the with the data sheet on 14 LEDs but from what i know and like you said, 13 is max. unless you have a reef controller with a 10v source, you will need to go through the thread and find the 317lm circuit to reduce a 12v source down to 10v as well as give you the dimming option with a pot. there should be 2 on this thread. one is with a 555 timer specifically for the "p" models and another one with just for the "d" models. strt from pg 13. i think you will find it quicker.

 

hey Evil, you are still real quick!

 

Thanks Deep.

I was hoping to get the "D" version and hoped to run in on full until I got controller. But it looks like I'll need to tie work the 10V into it as you alluded to. Thanks for the pg number.

 

As for 13 vs. 14 LEDs. Check out what the nanotuners are doing with the meanwells....I spare you the suspense...14 LEDs per.

 

 

Thank again, Nick

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The current draw on the control circuit is so small that I think you could get away with a 10v wall wart or put a pot into the mix.

do you guys offer the 10v walwart. most that i have found is either 12v or 9v.

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nanotuners.com

no, we have a variable voltage one from 3-12v (3, 5, 6.4, 9,12) only.

 

I would try looking online. Im sure evils got a suggestion.

 

Chris

 

If you look at the video, that power supply reports the current draw/voltage in real time. The current is stuck at 0.00.

 

If i didnt see it myself, i would think its an open circuit.

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I'm already going to have a 12v PS in my fixture for my fan, so I could easily run another // line and trim that down to 10V with the ciruit deep referred to.

Or, worst case senario, I do a $4 wallwart. ;)

 

Thanks gents!

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Sorry for the short reply earlier. I have been in a meeting all day and was replying on my phone.

 

Using the 12v supply actually is better. You can use an LM317 voltage regulator to set the voltage limit to 10v. If you build it with a 10K pot as R2 (look here) and a 1K and 470 ohm resistor in series for R1, you can adjust your voltage very accurately from 1.25-10v.

 

Reason I say it's better is that many 10v power supplies will output up to 14v with little to no load on them. The cheaper the power supply, the more likely this is the case.

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nanotuners.com
Sorry for the short reply earlier. I have been in a meeting all day and was replying on my phone.

 

Using the 12v supply actually is better. You can use an LM317 voltage regulator to set the voltage limit to 10v. If you build it with a 10K pot as R2 (look here) and a 1K and 470 ohm resistor in series for R1, you can adjust your voltage very accurately from 1.25-10v.

 

Reason I say it's better is that many 10v power supplies will output up to 14v with little to no load on them. The cheaper the power supply, the more likely this is the case.

 

That was my fear. I was afraid of the no load voltage.

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Hello,

 

I want to use an Arduino to dim the "P" drivers. One Arduino is enough for 2 drivers right ? Also, how many transistors would I need ? One per driver or just one for both ? What type of transistor do I need ? Do you have an example or even a model ?

 

Thanks a lot in advance !

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Hello,

 

I want to use an Arduino to dim the "P" drivers. One Arduino is enough for 2 drivers right ? Also, how many transistors would I need ? One per driver or just one for both ? What type of transistor do I need ? Do you have an example or even a model ?

 

Thanks a lot in advance !

 

One Arduino for two drivers is fine. You can connect a lot more to that controller if need be. I would use one transistor (2n2222, plus a 1K ohm biasing resistor) per driver. How you end up connecting it to the controller is up to you. You have the option of connecting both transistors to one output so both drivers are controlled together, or connect each transistor to different outputs so you have individual control over them. Connect like this:

 

				10v+				  |				  |				 /ARDUINO -- 1K --|				 \				  |				  |				 DIM+

 

Make sure you connect DIM- on the driver to ground on the Arduino.

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