Bubbleless seams?

[coolwaters]

i just a few tanks and they all have some bubbles in the joints...

but it gets a little better every time i do one.

 

i tried the pin method but it just uses too much Weld-on 3....and most of it gets squeezed out and form water drops on the sides...

 

is there a better tip on getting bubbleless seams?

 

the cut isnt prefect and i cant seem to sand it to the point of perfect.....

[smoknta]

the cut isnt prefect and i cant seem to sand it to the point of perfect.....

 

That is probably your issue.

[Squinchy]

After you sand the joints with super fine sand paper try torching them to make them smooth, just don't burn it

[coolwaters]

its impossible to get perfect edges...

my friend lost the torch....time to get a new one.

[Sergeant-G]

I built an ATO holding tank of about 4 gallons and a couple of things I learned about using a torch to flame polish the edges are:

 

1. keep the torch turned down and keep the edge of the lexan at the tip of the blue flame

2. keep the torch moving at a decent pace

3.peel the protective coating off of the edges before polishing, lol I learned the hard way and now I have blue tinted edges on all my lexan.

4. if you need to touch up an area wait till the piece cools then make another pass, if you dont wait the piece will bubble up on you.

4. practice with a piece of scrap first

 

I also made a cover for my sump and I found that it warped alittle from being heated up, if at all possible try to find a flat spot to lay it while it cools.

 

Hope this helps

 

Casey

[The Propagator]

Got one word for ya..... ROUTER.

[evilc66]

got two words for ya.... bench planer!

 

Your edge finish is whats killing you. With a router table or a bench planer there should be no need to flame polish or sand the edges. If you do sand, you need to make a jig that will hold the acrylic square to the sandpaper. If you don't, all you will be doing is putting the edge out of square and allowing air into the joint.

[The Propagator]

You mean a joiner right ?

Even so Why would you run a piece of acrylic through a joiner or a plainer ?

The object is to smooth, and 90 the edge not the viewable surface area

I mean I am not a plainer user or a joiner user. I have never used one but I have seen them.

A plainer cuts top and bottom surfaces at the same time while a joiner cuts one surface at a time but it still has long narrow blade son a drum.

How would that even work for acrylic ?

[masterbuilder]

Prop has it right.

 

Anywho.... my Smarta$$ answer...use glass...problem solved.

[Jay-sun]

Prop the jointer that Evil is referring to is for doing edge work. The jointer is used alot in woodworking to give a true square edge to work from. The planer is to finish the surface as opposed to the edge of the work piece. You can use a jointer to sqare up the edge of the acrylic for gluing. No flame polishing or sanding would be needed.

Here are a couple pics. One of the planer and one of the jointer. These are just bench top models and small compared to some you may have seen.

 

Jason

 

 

 

[evilc66]

Sorry. Yes, I ment a joiner. Works very well. Nice square and smooth edges and can trim down in very fine increments.

[Khayman]

I always cheat when I build a tank and get the glass cut at a proffesional shop and delivered.

[coolwaters]

maybe i should have asked for routed edges at Tap Plastics...

iv used the wrong glue too...weld-on 3 just drys way too fast so that was part of the problem.

i also noticed the bubbles where forming inside the sawed lines....

that bench planer looks pretty expensive...

i know wat to do next time...

 

can anyone say waterfall tank????

[disaster999]

nothing wrong with that. not everyone could shell out the thousands and thousands of dollars for a jointer, plainer, router, table saw OR the garage space if you dont have a house.

[The Propagator]

Ryobi bench top router.

Home Depot.

$99.99

Includes table, miter, fence, throat plates, vacuum port, adjustable height form above or below and a

1.5 horse, fixed speed 1/4" inch collet router. The router can be removed and used free hand as well.

I picked one up last Wednesday my self.

Its very small and compact with removable legs, and easy to assemble.

You can mount it on saw horses or a small but sturdy table in your garage or drive way.

Planer's usually start around the $200.00 - $360.00 mark for a decent 12"-13" ( brand dependent).

Jointers usually start around $220-$300 for a 6" ( brand dependent )

 

I would HIGHLY suggest any one who has a router already to use it on all edges of their acrylic work if it is to be water tight and bubble less.

If you are planning a nice little tank in the future you might as well spend an extra $130.00 on some bits and one of those little Ryobi router tables. You will be able to do the job cleaner, and more accurately, and after your done you can make your stand with the new router

You will discover that a router table can be one of the BEST pieces of equipment you could possibly have for your home repair work as well once you start using it.

Have some old crown molding no one makes anymore or it is horribly expensive ?

Buy some wood and make your own on the router table. Cabinet door split and no one makes a door to suite the rest ? Router table.

Trust me you will look at things in a whole new light when you see what you can do with one. ( even a cheapy like the one I bought )

[bonsaidarrell]

Ryobi bench top router.

Home Depot.

$99.99

Includes table, miter, fence, throat plates, vacuum port, adjustable height form above or below and a

1.5 horse, fixed speed 1/4" inch collet router. The router can be removed and used free hand as well.

 

Hi Propagator,

 

Does that one allow you to set the outfeed fence separate from the infeed side? I've thought about building my own table, but that is the point that I always get stuck on.

 

-Darrell

[The Propagator]

The basic table and router combo I bought for $99.99 :

 

 

Intermediate table sold with out the router for $99.00:

 

 

Beginners table sold with out the router for $69.99

 

 

Bosch intermediate table sold with out the router for $179.94 :

 

 

Dremel also makes a shaper /router table ( clamp on bench type ) as well as a plunge router assembly for your Dremel:

 

Plunge router assembly $31.40

 

 

Clamp on bench type shaper / router tale $38.11 :

 

 

The dremel plunge router assembly and the dremel shaper / router table would be a little if'y at best I would think on anything over 1/8th in acrylic though I would think. ( never used it before my self though.) I don't think there are very many bits available for actual routing either.

I can tell you a little secret though... Roto-Zip 1/8" shank router and cutting bits WILL fit in a dremel. They make better made routing bits, and cutting bits then dremel does I think.

You can also get a MUCH larger diamond cut off wheel for dremels now too !

You have to buy an EZ-lock mandrel kit to use it though. But its like 2" in diameter versus the usual 1" ! WELL WORTH IT for cutting through thick stalks, or thick rock and skeleton in general when fragging LPS.

I saw those at Lowes but I have not seen them at HD yet. I think they are like $24.95 at Lowes.

Honestly I am not sure if they come with the EZ-lock mandrel or not? I am headed by their tonight so I will let you know some time later this evening / early morning ( I keep weird hours )

 

D

[showjyr]

Hi Propagator,

 

Does that one allow you to set the outfeed fence separate from the infeed side? I've thought about building my own table, but that is the point that I always get stuck on.

 

-Darrell

 

 

You mean can you shim each side of the fence separately, correct? I don't believe you can on the ryobi.

 

My advice to anyone who buys a router and table.....just like stuff for your tanks get a good one the first time. I bought a skil table and router used it for a few months and just got tired of it. I went to lowes and bought a Freud router and Bosch table for about $300. I love the table because it comes with feather boards and shims for the fence....plus it's a laminate top so it won't scratch soft or sensitive material, like acrylic. The router.......that's thing is just awesome.

[The Propagator]

Do you mean off set the fence IE an angle ?

Then yes you can but not by much because its mounted in slots.

You can also remove the sacrifice backers and shim them up to make a stop, you can also install feather boards on them.

The miter of coarse is stationary in its track, but you can angle it towards or away from the bit.

 

( leave the paper on the acrylic, peel it away from the cut surface or cut if off near it and it wont get scratched up Your AV is killing me btw ) )

[showjyr]

Do you mean off set the fence IE an dangle ?

Then yes you can but not by much because its mounted in slots.

You can also remove the sacrifice backers and shim them up to make a stop, you can also install feather boards on them.

The miter of coarse is stationary in its track, but you can angle it towards or away from the bit.

 

( leave the paper on the acrylic, peel it away from the cut surface of cut if off near it and it wont get scratched up Your AV is killing me btw ) )

 

 

Yup that works too but not for pre-finished wood I work with from time to time

 

Yeah I get that a lot.....bouncy bouncy

[bonsaidarrell]

You mean can you shim each side of the fence separately, correct? I don't believe you can on the ryobi.

 

What I mean is are the two sides of the fence independent. If you are using the router table to shave the edge, you would want the outfeed side (edge already shaved) to be set equal with the blade, and infeed side (edge about to be shaved) set in (by however much you were going to remove). That was, both edges are supported as you pass it along the fence.

 

Is that what the shims people are mentioning do?

 

In a true edge jointer, the bed allows both sides to be adjusted independently.

 

-Darrell

[showjyr]

What I mean is are the two sides of the fence independent. If you are using the router table to shave the edge, you would want the outfeed side (edge already shaved) to be set equal with the blade, and infeed side (edge about to be shaved) set in (by however much you were going to remove). That was, both edges are supported as you pass it along the fence.

 

Is that what the shims people are mentioning do?

 

In a true edge jointer, the bed allows both sides to be adjusted independently.

 

-Darrell

 

 

Yup, that's exactly what the shims do.

[nazerine]

Personally I would avoid getting any router table with a cast aluminum/metal table top of any kind. Trimming edges on the table is alot better than free handing with the router. The metal tops with fluting in them do a good job of scratching acrylic if you remove the plastic...

 

For router tables, look into General International, Freud, and Samona .. They have way more options and flexibility than any of the ones posted earlier. Their tops are made of mdf with laminate top.

 

My advice would be not to even attempt using the dremel on acrylic over 1/8", you will burn it out.

 

Now, one thing that was not mentioned was router bits!! You can have the best router and table, but if you buy low quality bits you will be *very* frustrated. Look into Freud(good) or CMT(best) brand bits.

 

When using your table for edge smoothing (jointing), try a sprial upcut bit without bearing.

When flush trimming use a 1/2" triple fluted flush trim with bearing

 

Personally I took the dive and bought a diamond compression bit; it leaves the edges smooooooooth.

 

(PS: I work at a specialty tool store, I've played with lots of our toys in regards to acrylic )