Spirofucci Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I think the main problem is that the water level in the back varies depending on how fast or slow it flows through the filter material. this causes variation in the water level in the tank as well. Not all RSM owners have this problem. I also have eliminated the surface skimmer in the tank. I also try and change my top filter media every 2 3 days. Quote Link to comment
Jessy-Ray Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) I personally use this skimmer and have no troubles with the water level, I top up everyday (no ato), but I dont lose a huge amount to evap the level in the viewing window drops less than half an increment. Like Mark I change my filter pad every 2-3 days. Just for reference these are my levels Sorry for the quality these were taken with a phone under torch light Edited May 8, 2012 by Jessy-Ray Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 umm... I am confused then doesnt the water level drop in the return section and not in the display like a normal sump and thats why most people put the auto topoff in the return section... *can someone else chime in because either Kat or myself are very confused on this AIO system. I'm not confused at all actually. HA HA. Can't put everything on paper, each tank will be different, each experience different. Quote Link to comment
Smity Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 apparently you are because your answering you own questions.... I guess like you said each tank will be different but they are all made the same speaking about the RSM itself. Good luck with your tank Kat. Quote Link to comment
supernip Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 what is it that your nonprofit does Quote Link to comment
dexter1080 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Whats man? remember me? 29 gal bio. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Just added LED's along with the T5's. Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 woah, what up Dexter Quote Link to comment
Smity Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Just added LED's along with the T5's. Nice I was think of doing the same, I want one strip of the Panaroma Pro but have read alot of reviews of them dying prematurely like @ a 6 month mark but they seem like they are the most powerful strip design on the market so far wattage wise. What type of strips are those Kat? Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 The 2 big ones are 12K/453nm PRO's, the strip in between the T5's is an all blue stunner. Quote Link to comment
Spirofucci Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Long story short, I gutted all of the electrical out of my RSM hood. I'm going to reconfigure it and add it back to my RSM to add some supplemental lighting to go with my Radion. We'll see what happens with this idea. My question is now that the hood is just a shell, I need to remove the front "feeder" section from the hinge that attaches to the main body of the hood. You know the flap that has the test tube holders. IMO that whole hood is very well designed and comes apart very easily, except this front flap. It is two seperate pieces but I cannot figure out how to seperate it without breaking it. Has anyone ever done this??? Help!!! A special friend and esteemed member of NR needs it. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Anyone have an idea on how to make an algae scrubber for the max? something that attached to Stevie T's media basket? Quote Link to comment
JimDantin Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) Long story short, I gutted all of the electrical out of my RSM hood. I'm going to reconfigure it and add it back to my RSM to add some supplemental lighting to go with my Radion. We'll see what happens with this idea. My question is now that the hood is just a shell, I need to remove the front "feeder" section from the hinge that attaches to the main body of the hood. You know the flap that has the test tube holders. IMO that whole hood is very well designed and comes apart very easily, except this front flap. It is two seperate pieces but I cannot figure out how to seperate it without breaking it. Has anyone ever done this??? Help!!! A special friend and esteemed member of NR needs it. Seems like everyone is tearing apart their hoods this summer! Step 1 - pry out the 4 caps that hide screws that hold the hood together. Use a thin screwdriver and carefully work around the plugs. They are only cosmetic items and aren't really needed, so don't worry about damaging them - just try to protect the flap itself. The caps are rather long and are friction fit into the holes. Step 2 - remove the screws Step 3 - scratch your head trying to figure out why the flap didn't come apart. The problems is that there are additional posts and tubes INSIDE THE FLAP that are a tight friction fit. The screws do some of the work, but the friction fit of the posts also holds things together. You need to use considerable prying force to separate the flap halves. The trick is to do it without scarring up the visible edges of the flap. I found that starting in the hinge area works best -- use a couple thin METAL putty knives or other WIDE flexible metal tools to work between the mating edges of the flap halves. Once you can get a small gap, try to slide the end of the putty knives up against the posts. Then slide a screwdriver BETWEEN the putty knives to apply additional force as close to the posts as possible. Try to remember your Physics classes - lever, fulcrum, wedge, etc! Try to apply force to the posts INSIDE the hinge rather than the hinge edges - see the pictures to understand where the posts are. This is a closeup: Hinge posts. It's a slow, stressful project -- I ended up putting quite a few dents in the flap edges before I figured out the putty knife trick. The goal is to spread the forces out so that you can protect the plastic of the flap as much as possible. Once you get the hinge area spread apart just a little, the plastic hinge pins (that are molded into the body of the hood) can slip through the gap and you can remove the flap from the main body of the hood. Then you can move to a more convenient work surface to complete the job without worrying about damaging the hood. Hope this helps. See the pictures in my lighting upgrade thread - there's a link to a full slideshow of detail shots. Lighting Upgrade Edited June 14, 2012 by JimDantin Quote Link to comment
Spirofucci Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Mr. Dantin, this project is complete and a success, largely due to your DIY thread on this!!! Thank you so much! Kat has the front part of the hood in good condition in her hands in NY and I now have the RSM stock lights including the moon LEDs as supplemental lighting to the Radion over my RSM. Here's a pic of the RSM lights stuffed into DIY acrylic boxes to fit around the Radion Quote Link to comment
Smity Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 very nice Spirofucci, I think T5 and LED are the best of both worlds. Also anyone have the stock skimmer for sale just need the plastic housing. LMK Quote Link to comment
Spirofucci Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 very nice Spirofucci, I think T5 and LED are the best of both worlds. Also anyone have the stock skimmer for sale just need the plastic housing. LMK Thanks Smity! So far so good, corals look great and healthy. I do have problems with my zoas and some SPS are still trying to color up, but that was before the light addition. Bummer, I just tossed my stock skimmer because I figured no one would ever want one, lol Quote Link to comment
Smity Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Lol its ok, Kat hooked me up. I did the same thing as you and ended up selling the tank. Promised the guy to source one out so lost alittle on the sale but everything is good. Quote Link to comment
tinctorus Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 I think once I change out the 4 T5HO bulbs that I have now "I run a fishneedit.com fixture" I am going to also order 2 led strips and mount them to the T5 fixture so that I can get the benefits of led's as far as coral growth on top of the benefits of the T5's as well as being able to turn one strip on and off independently from the other so that I can run just the led's at night and in the morning Quote Link to comment
1.0reef Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Just added LED's along with the T5's. Could have waited 2 months to get the Panorama Marines. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Could have waited 2 months to get the Panorama Marines. I would have if I had a magic ball. I used a PRO module that I had purchased in December and the other was free. So there. Quote Link to comment
metrokat Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Anyone running a sump on their RSM? Quote Link to comment
Jon Lazar Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Does anyone know the size and thread type for the nozzles on the two return pumps? I've tried 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" npt but none of them fit. I want to replace the return nozzles with DIY spray bars and need to know so I can search and order parts online. Quote Link to comment
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