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Red Sea Max Index Thread


StevieT

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Spirofucci

I think the main problem is that the water level in the back varies depending on how fast or slow it flows through the filter material. this causes variation in the water level in the tank as well. Not all RSM owners have this problem.

 

I also have eliminated the surface skimmer in the tank. I also try and change my top filter media every 2 3 days.

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Jessy-Ray

I personally use this skimmer and have no troubles with the water level, I top up everyday (no ato), but I dont lose a huge amount to evap the level in the viewing window drops less than half an increment. Like Mark I change my filter pad every 2-3 days. Just for reference these are my levels

photo2.jpg

photo3.jpg

Sorry for the quality these were taken with a phone under torch light

Edited by Jessy-Ray
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umm... I am confused then doesnt the water level drop in the return section and not in the display like a normal sump and thats why most people put the auto topoff in the return section...

 

*can someone else chime in because either Kat or myself are very confused on this AIO system.

:) I'm not confused at all actually. HA HA. Can't put everything on paper, each tank will be different, each experience different.

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apparently you are because your answering you own questions....

 

I guess like you said each tank will be different but they are all made the same speaking about the RSM itself.

 

Good luck with your tank Kat.

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Just added LED's along with the T5's.

IMG_20120511_090650.jpg

 

Nice I was think of doing the same, I want one strip of the Panaroma Pro but have read alot of reviews of them dying prematurely like @ a 6 month mark but they seem like they are the most powerful strip design on the market so far wattage wise.

 

What type of strips are those Kat?

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  • 2 weeks later...
Spirofucci

Long story short, I gutted all of the electrical out of my RSM hood. I'm going to reconfigure it and add it back to my RSM to add some supplemental lighting to go with my Radion. We'll see what happens with this idea.

 

My question is now that the hood is just a shell, I need to remove the front "feeder" section from the hinge that attaches to the main body of the hood. You know the flap that has the test tube holders.

 

IMO that whole hood is very well designed and comes apart very easily, except this front flap. It is two seperate pieces but I cannot figure out how to seperate it without breaking it.

 

Has anyone ever done this??? Help!!! A special friend and esteemed member of NR needs it. :)

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  • 4 weeks later...
Long story short, I gutted all of the electrical out of my RSM hood. I'm going to reconfigure it and add it back to my RSM to add some supplemental lighting to go with my Radion. We'll see what happens with this idea.

 

My question is now that the hood is just a shell, I need to remove the front "feeder" section from the hinge that attaches to the main body of the hood. You know the flap that has the test tube holders.

 

IMO that whole hood is very well designed and comes apart very easily, except this front flap. It is two seperate pieces but I cannot figure out how to seperate it without breaking it.

 

Has anyone ever done this??? Help!!! A special friend and esteemed member of NR needs it. :)

 

Seems like everyone is tearing apart their hoods this summer!

 

Step 1 - pry out the 4 caps that hide screws that hold the hood together. Use a thin screwdriver and carefully work around the plugs. They are only cosmetic items and aren't really needed, so don't worry about damaging them - just try to protect the flap itself. The caps are rather long and are friction fit into the holes.

Step 2 - remove the screws

Step 3 - scratch your head trying to figure out why the flap didn't come apart.

 

The problems is that there are additional posts and tubes INSIDE THE FLAP that are a tight friction fit. The screws do some of the work, but the friction fit of the posts also holds things together. You need to use considerable prying force to separate the flap halves. The trick is to do it without scarring up the visible edges of the flap.

 

I found that starting in the hinge area works best -- use a couple thin METAL putty knives or other WIDE flexible metal tools to work between the mating edges of the flap halves. Once you can get a small gap, try to slide the end of the putty knives up against the posts. Then slide a screwdriver BETWEEN the putty knives to apply additional force as close to the posts as possible. Try to remember your Physics classes - lever, fulcrum, wedge, etc!

 

Try to apply force to the posts INSIDE the hinge rather than the hinge edges - see the pictures to understand where the posts are. This is a closeup:

Hinge posts.

 

It's a slow, stressful project -- I ended up putting quite a few dents in the flap edges before I figured out the putty knife trick. The goal is to spread the forces out so that you can protect the plastic of the flap as much as possible.

 

Once you get the hinge area spread apart just a little, the plastic hinge pins (that are molded into the body of the hood) can slip through the gap and you can remove the flap from the main body of the hood. Then you can move to a more convenient work surface to complete the job without worrying about damaging the hood.

 

Hope this helps. See the pictures in my lighting upgrade thread - there's a link to a full slideshow of detail shots.

Lighting Upgrade

Edited by JimDantin
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Mr. Dantin, this project is complete and a success, largely due to your DIY thread on this!!! Thank you so much!

 

Kat has the front part of the hood in good condition in her hands in NY and I now have the RSM stock lights including the moon LEDs as supplemental lighting to the Radion over my RSM.

 

Here's a pic of the RSM lights stuffed into DIY acrylic boxes to fit around the Radion

 

057.jpg

 

061.jpg

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very nice Spirofucci, I think T5 and LED are the best of both worlds.

 

Also anyone have the stock skimmer for sale just need the plastic housing.

 

LMK

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very nice Spirofucci, I think T5 and LED are the best of both worlds.

 

Also anyone have the stock skimmer for sale just need the plastic housing.

 

LMK

Thanks Smity! So far so good, corals look great and healthy. I do have problems with my zoas and some SPS are still trying to color up, but that was before the light addition.

 

Bummer, I just tossed my stock skimmer because I figured no one would ever want one, lol

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Lol its ok, Kat hooked me up. I did the same thing as you and ended up selling the tank. Promised the guy to source one out so lost alittle on the sale but everything is good.

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I think once I change out the 4 T5HO bulbs that I have now "I run a fishneedit.com fixture" I am going to also order 2 led strips and mount them to the T5 fixture so that I can get the benefits of led's as far as coral growth on top of the benefits of the T5's as well as being able to turn one strip on and off independently from the other so that I can run just the led's at night and in the morning

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone know the size and thread type for the nozzles on the two return pumps? I've tried 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" npt but none of them fit.

 

I want to replace the return nozzles with DIY spray bars and need to know so I can search and order parts online.

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