MGXsport Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 Just recieved my float switch! Fastest shipping ever! I worry about the suction cup sliding off if a snail goes on it and wieghs it down, though. Link to comment
MGXsport Posted March 27, 2004 Share Posted March 27, 2004 Now I got the carboy all I need to do is get a cord and an air pump. Link to comment
matt the fiddler Posted March 27, 2004 Share Posted March 27, 2004 just make sure it is securly attacked Link to comment
MGXsport Posted March 27, 2004 Share Posted March 27, 2004 Now that I have all the equipment I think I am going to make the snail gaurd out of the 1.25" cap and plug and then hopefully find a way to make it stay Still not sure how to go about this. Link to comment
matt the fiddler Posted March 27, 2004 Share Posted March 27, 2004 there is a place that sells snail gards for a couple bucks online- might be worth getting a real one- so it won't blow up on you... Link to comment
willtel Posted March 28, 2004 Author Share Posted March 28, 2004 Originally posted by MGXsport where are they at? http://www.autotopoff.com/ Link to comment
MGXsport Posted March 28, 2004 Share Posted March 28, 2004 thanks but I already have all the things I am just looking for a bracket. Link to comment
Nautica-db Posted March 29, 2004 Share Posted March 29, 2004 Coke bottle works really good for a small nano just wash it out with hot water about 10000 times Link to comment
AquaFilly Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 So I just cut open a small extension cord and wire the 2 float switch wires into it? Then plug the air pump into the extension cord? I have a bad feeling these little float switches can't handle that much power coming out of the wall. My b/f warns me it'll blow up eventually. So let's prove him wrong! Tell me how long everyone's systems have been set up for. Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 You guys are still overloading those float switches with AC current. Those tiny 26ga leads arent designed to handle house current. WARNING: some day, maybe not today, or the day after, the current in the switch will arc (and the saltwater will only help) and make the switch stay on permanently. Dont believe me? Dont know how many stories I have heard saying "my reef overflowed with top-off water and ruined everything!!!", because of one of those little buggers. Link to comment
AquaFilly Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 Would you be so kind as to offer another wiring solution? I'd be so grateful. Really! Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 I boutght one of those battery powered air pumps...like $6 el-cheepo from hagen, right? Cracked it open and cut one of the battery wires. Spliced the float switch in, and made a harness. You would be amazed as to how compact it is...the airpump, outlet nozzle, and float all in one little hang on package...I can post pics tomorrow... Link to comment
Case Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 you will need some thing like a 13 Amp solid state relay because what Undertheradar is saying is true but there can be worse things then it just getting stuck in the on position happen from doing this... Link to comment
Case Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 I nalgene ever since i was 14 when i went hiking and had my first water bottle from nalgene! ugh indestructible.... Now i have all sorts of nalgene products even a Nalgene Radiation beta storage box for my radioactive uranium ore samples they are purty under the black light Link to comment
Undertheradar Posted April 9, 2004 Share Posted April 9, 2004 http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=29093 ther eit is, in case you didnt see it already... Link to comment
seis66 Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 i still can't understand how to connect the float switch to the air pump Link to comment
tylernt Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Originally posted by seis66 i still can't understand how to connect the float switch to the air pump Pics, diagram, and instructions here: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=21786 Link to comment
TerReefic Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 For those who were wanting quiet, I am using a Tetra Whisper 10 air pump on my 12G tank. This thing is very quiet and is rated at 2.2V. Just got it wired and finished and it is working perfectly how I want it. Pumps up 3-4 feet from jug on the floor up to my tank. The flow is slow so the salinity shouldn't change too fast. If you want it faster try the 20, not sure what the voltage is on that one though. Thanks for this great idea and easy project! Link to comment
zachtos Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I've been using these pumpless auto topoffs for years. I use a 2L bottle, it is suprisingly resiliant to KALKwasser. I used to use 5 gallon water drums but KALKwasser kept eating thru them. I keep the 2 liters in a smaller milk jug cut in half just in case the KALK eats thru. I did not run a relay in my float switch. Keep in mind you have 120VAC in your tank in the powerheads. No more of a safety hazzard then those are. Just seal the wires well w/ silicone if your a worry wort. Link to comment
willtel Posted December 15, 2006 Author Share Posted December 15, 2006 Fixed the pics. This system is still running fine with a few air hose adjustments from time to time. Link to comment
dga Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 I've been using these pumpless auto topoffs for years. I use a 2L bottle, it is suprisingly resiliant to KALKwasser. I used to use 5 gallon water drums but KALKwasser kept eating thru them. I keep the 2 liters in a smaller milk jug cut in half just in case the KALK eats thru. I did not run a relay in my float switch. Keep in mind you have 120VAC in your tank in the powerheads. No more of a safety hazzard then those are. Just seal the wires well w/ silicone if your a worry wort. better check the ratings of the float switch. to many folks use 12v dc rated switchs in 120v ac applications. generally of much lower current ratings. but your a electrical engineer, so you would allready know that... Link to comment
ununknown Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Pics, diagram, and instructions here: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...;threadid=21786 Link doesn't work, and I'm only saying this because I ALSO REALLY WANT TO KNOW HOW TO CONNECT THE FLOAT SWITCH TO THE AIR PUMP!!! It's getting me mad that I don't know HOW TO FRIGGEN CONNECT THEM TOGETHER!!!!! Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 You need a relay to interpret the signal from the floatswitch. The relay will tell the pump when to turn on and when to turn off based on whether the switch is open or closed. The relay will require some external power to operate and many people use 9V batteries. I wired mine up to a 9V, 500 mA transformer. Found in tylernt's topics (via his profile): http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...c=66752&hl= Not exactly what you were looking for but it may help. Link to comment
mp216 Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 I use a relay with a timer built in. It works flawlessly and it is FAILSAFE. For example, just the other day my float switch got stuck, normally this would have caused a flood of fresh water into the tank. However, the timer shut the pump down after about 45 seconds so the tank only got a little bit of extra water. Also, I wired in an LED so when I get home I could see that the timer had shut off the relay. I cleaned the float switch and everything is running smoothly once again. I have now built two of these units, here is a link to the thread on the original, check it out: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=114170 And here is the relay that I used: http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?...s&Item=EK01 Link to comment
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