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Air Powered Auto Topoff


willtel

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NEWBYREEF

I plan to use the same thing you did with the RO to Kalk reactor to sump..but here's my plan...

Air Driven RO TOP OFF/ kalk reactor/ Drip system..all controlled on a timer...

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  • 2 months later...

I ordered a float switch and am now waiting to see if I win on ebay for a carboy.

 

Questions I have though are where did you get what looks like to be solid airline tubing and did you drill the holes in the lid smaller or did you just fill the gap with glue?

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Undertheradar

The float switch didnt fail...you overloaded it. Those things are only rated for an amount about that of a small powerhead...in fact, they are specified as DC..so either a relay box with proper wiring is the ticket, or a very very low wattage powerhead is in order.

 

For what you were doing, you should have been using one of those $60 ultralife reed switches. Those are rated for what you were doing...those floatswitches.net ones arent.

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AquaWorld75

* well i guess this question needed to be posted in another post, i got mixed up with all the air powered top off systems I have been reading about.

 

I am also working on a very similar auto top off system and I had a quick question.

 

I am testing my system with a regular milk jug and I noticed that the container builds up pressure. Is there a risk of the container bursting with too much pressure? The two holes I drillled are pretty air tight and the top screws on very well. I know this is good, because it allows for the greatest pressure going out but can the container break?

 

thanks

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matt the fiddler

" a regular milk jug "

 

yes definatly- that plastic is not think enough.. you need one wiht more of a "backbone" especially if you have a flow regulator or tie in your line gogin up to the tak- that will get as high as pressure as your airpump can put out...

 

 

if you want small. a welches grape juice container works nicely...

 

i personally have a reinforced 5 gallon water transport jug....

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matt the fiddler

on air in the lid...

 

 

drill a hole slightly SMALLER than the airlining the plastic air line wiht act like an O ring.. and as long as it is on top- only minor amounts of air would leak out.. [ in my expirence only when you yank on the tubes thogh]

 

dont' silicone them in..

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matt the fiddler

he remotly linked them- and now has removed them... since they were on an external site- they dont' show up once removed

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matt the fiddler

i can post pics of my setup- if peopel are interested.. mine is very similiar.. if i rememebr his pics.. just more water volume [and more air to let off one the pump shuts off, and the container is empty...]

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matt the fiddler

ok- will take pics this afternoon and post mine up....

 

realize mine is more complicated than a simple one.. , becuase i had to account for almost 4 gallons of compressed air releasing as it gets empty... [as opposed to liek a liter of air when the container if full.. which could potentially dump enough fresh water into a small tank to make it overflow...

 

i also use mine to dose iodine in small amounts through out the day..... others use theirs to dose kalk.

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matt the fiddler

3

 

the T here is to let of extra air quickly once the airpump shuts off. this inturn lowers the pressure going into the jug, but i have way too much anyways.. the trick is to adjust it so it releases jsut enough air, that you have pressure to get up top,

 

i have added a flow valve at the top for final "drip" adjustments, and several valves to reduce backwards flow, in the case that i move the outlet, to prevent a siphon drain.

 

 

notice the output is on a HOB - the serves to mix it in quickly, and can still have attached to the main tank... [rather than the fuge]

 

 

also .. i drilled 2 holes in the lid of the jug.. with a drill bit slightly smaller than the airhose. made the ends at and angle for threading- and then have an automatic O ring . no extra sealing needed- mess free..

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matt the fiddler

oh yea, i wired the float switch. [from floatswitches.net or wahtever] into an extension chord.. and plugged the airpump into that..

 

BE SURE TO LABEL IT!!!! if more gets plugged in to that cord, you could blow it. and that is bad [especially with all that voltage going through the main tank]

 

if a series of tanks is connected- put the switch in the most downstream tank/ fuge/ sump.... etc.

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matt the fiddler

there is some guy that sells float switch coveres... you have to be careful to "shield" it as a snail parked on the float switch could easily flood the aquarium... you can make them out of large pvp, [1.5" i believe"] i drilled a clear old freshwater bubbler carbon filter, and suctioned cupped it on.

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