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The "Where Do I Begin?" BC29 LED Upgrade with Stock Hood


TheStar

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This is my first DIY Lighting project.

 

I plan on covering the basics for others (like me) who lack experience doing this type of thing. I'll do research on other threads to try and find answers. In the meantime, if anyone can offer tips/advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

This thread document the steps I take to build an LED Lighting system (using the stock hood) for my BC 29.

 

Hmmm...where do I begin?

 

I did receive the LED's in.

 

CIMG0026.jpg

 

I need a way to connect the Meanwell Driver into the wall. I don't plan on doing that just yet, but I know I need to. Can I just solder this to any two prong wall plug and use that?

 

Does Brown vs. Blue matter?

 

CIMG0033.jpg

 

Next step, what to do with all these wires?

 

CIMG0035.jpg

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Brown and blue does matter. Brown is Live and blue is Neutral. These are standard color codes for appliance wiring. If you buy a cord (I suggest a jacketed cord, not bonded), the colors might be black (live) and white (neutral).

 

Wiring for the other end is printed on the label. What you do with it from there is up to you ;)

 

Glad to see everything got there safe.

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goofyreefer

I'm attempting the same build with a 29 biocube. How many LED's are you using for the tank? My plan was 12 white 12 blue on 2 ELN-60-48's.

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I'm attempting the same build with a 29 biocube. How many LED's are you using for the tank? My plan was 12 white 12 blue on 2 ELN-60-48's.

 

I am using 24 total. 12 white and 12 Royal Blue. The extras you see in the picture are actually for my 9G Nanowave.

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I am using 24 total. 12 white and 12 Royal Blue. The extras you see in the picture are actually for my 9G Nanowave.

 

I have a BC29 and I will be following this thread closely. I hope everything goes smoothly for you.

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Brown and blue does matter. Brown is Live and blue is Neutral. These are standard color codes for appliance wiring. If you buy a cord (I suggest a jacketed cord, not bonded), the colors might be black (live) and white (neutral).

 

On the AC end, I noticed the Meanwell had 3 wires coming out (Green Blue Brown).

 

I decided to take an old Desktop Computer Power Cord and cut off the end. This also has three wires (White Black Green). I'll solder the White to Blue, Green to Green, Brown to Black.

 

I understand White/Blue is the neutral, Green is the Ground and Brown/Black is Positive.

 

Pic, not great, but its better than nothing.

 

CIMG0086.jpg

 

I have a BC29 and I will be following this thread closely. I hope everything goes smoothly for you.

 

Great! Nice to have someone in the same boat.

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Just went back to read the Meanwell thread....

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=183692

 

I found a key piece of information that I really did not understand. The Meanwell has 4 wires that go to the LED's. There are 2 that are labeled Dim +/-. I couldn't understand why the POT wouldn't just go here but found the answer in the thread.

 

Giga, It means that since this group buy driver is dimmable, it has an input for this ability. This input is to control the dimming amount. If you give it 10 volts it will be at it's maximum and if you give it 0 then it will be at it's lowest dimming, which might be off, I don't know. So, to use it, you'll need an external power supply hooked up to this part of the driver. Hope this helps, hope I'm right.

 

So, now I need to figure out how to build this PWM that Evil keeps talking about and a 10v power supply for it.

 

Also I need to figure out where the POT goes? Is it on the DIM +/- wires or somewhere on the PWM? Or is it somewhere on the other 2 wires?

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Aha...just found this in that Meanwell Thread. Evil has since simplified the PWM (anxiously awaiting his repost of the diagram).

 

This helps clear things up though. The POT goes right on the PWM.

 

Here goes. First off, parts list:

 

555 Timer x 1

Diode (1N4148) x 2

100K ohm Potentiometer x 1

0.1uF Capacitor x 3

10K ohm Resistor x 1

LM317 Voltage Regulator x 1

470 ohm Resistor x 1

3.3K ohm Resistor x 1

PCB x 1 (I'll leave size up to you)

Wire

 

Top side

 

(Not sure if I can borrow pictures here so I'm posting an link to the original post instead.)

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...t&p=2037032

 

 

Botom side

 

 

 

All parts are available from Radioshack. I made sure of that. You can also get all these parts online at places like Digikey and Mouser for a lot cheaper, especially if you have to build multiple. If you really want to get adventurous, you could build this using a 556 timer for dual control in the same chip. This is what I will probably end up using. I'll post pics for anyone interested when I get it done.

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goofyreefer

So if you buy the ELN-60-48 (D) you would notneed to add the PWM or a seperate power supply correct?

This thread is EXACTLY what I need to see... great work.

 

Have you drilled and taped the heatsink? What type of screws are you using metal or nylon?

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So if you buy the ELN-60-48 (D) you would notneed to add the PWM or a seperate power supply correct?

This thread is EXACTLY what I need to see... great work.

 

Have you drilled and taped the heatsink? What type of screws are you using metal or nylon?

I plan on drilling and tapping this weekend. I'll post the info on the screws tomorrow.

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Tried doing some drilling/tapping yesterday. It wasn't great. All the holes were drilled but I broke 3 taps before even making 1 successful tap. I plan on trying a new strategy later today.

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So if you buy the ELN-60-48 (D) you would notneed to add the PWM or a seperate power supply correct?

This thread is EXACTLY what I need to see... great work.

 

Have you drilled and taped the heatsink? What type of screws are you using metal or nylon?

The "D" will need an external 10v power supply with a potentiometer to get the dimming to work, or even to get full brightness. Without an external power source, the driver defaults to the minimum value.

 

Tried doing some drilling/tapping yesterday. It wasn't great. All the holes were drilled but I broke 3 taps before even making 1 successful tap. I plan on trying a new strategy later today.

What size drill and tap are you using? Also, what is your method for tapping, and what lubricant are you using?

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What size drill and tap are you using? Also, what is your method for tapping, and what lubricant are you using?

 

Used these 2 types of Taps.

 

]Westward 2LXJ6 Hand Tap, Bottom, HSS, #4-40

HSTT-0440 04-40 NC High Speed Steel 3 Flute Ground Thread Taper Tap

 

Not sure of the Drill Bit Size as we used/broke them all and tossed all the packaging. Walked into Home Depot with the Screw and they recommended a size.

 

Could you recommend a Drill Bit Size for others reading this thread. I feel like the bits I used were too small, but the screw will go in somewhat without tapping.

 

I had a bit more info that you helped me out with but was lost in the Database issue a few weeks back.

 

I used WD40 to spray the taps and they were breaking before I got anywhere.

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Drill should be a #43 for a 4-40 tap.

 

Are you doing the "half turn in, quarter turn out" method when running the tap?

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I know you mentioned that before and I couldn't find it yesterday. When you say 1/2 turn in and 1/4 turn out is that it, or do you keep going 1/2 in, 1/4 out repeatedly until you go all the way through the aluminum?

 

 

Is WD40 ok? I know others mentioned Grease and aluminum tapping fluid.

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I'll have a new cleaned up circuit built and diagrammed for you guys soon.

 

Hi Evil, In the meantime, is there something that would take the place of the PWM?

 

If you bought a variable voltage adapter (wall wart) and set it to 9 or 10 volts. Cut the end off and hook up the positive/negative to the Dim +/- on the Meanwell. Would this allow us to run the LED's until we have a PWM?

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I know you mentioned that before and I couldn't find it yesterday. When you say 1/2 turn in and 1/4 turn out is that it, or do you keep going 1/2 in, 1/4 out repeatedly until you go all the way through the aluminum?

 

 

Is WD40 ok? I know others mentioned Grease and aluminum tapping fluid.

 

I used WD40 and was fine. Just take it slow with the tapping if it seems to sieze up take it all the way out and clear the bit.

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Hi Evil, In the meantime, is there something that would take the place of the PWM?

 

If you bought a variable voltage adapter (wall wart) and set it to 9 or 10 volts. Cut the end off and hook up the positive/negative to the Dim +/- on the Meanwell. Would this allow us to run the LED's until we have a PWM?

 

That will allow you to run at full tilt. I'll have the new circuit done this week.

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Well, finally got the drilling and tapping done. Pics later. I did have some help. Even as a novice without any experience, it was doable. It took some time and patience but it can be done.

 

Evil, any luck with the circuit? Ready to start wiring!!!

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Got all the LED's mounted. Getting there....

 

Just about to start soldering all the lights to the meanwell.

 

Evil, for testing/temporary usage, can I hook up a 19V 3amp Laptop AC Adapter to the DIM +/- on the Meanwell and then right into the wall?

 

Or do I need something 10V or less?

 

Like one of these... The left one is 9V 1Amp, the right is 12V 1Amp

 

CIMG0123.jpg

 

Just to be clear, the meanwell AC side goes directly into the wall (for AC power) and the Dim +/- goes to the PWM/POT and then also into the wall?

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Pictures of the mounted LED's. It didn't take much thermal paste at all. The picture shows the syringe with some leftover. I used maybe 3/4's of what was originally in there.

 

CIMG0114.jpg

CIMG0116.jpg

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