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LED Dual Retro - BioCube29 & Custom 3.5g AIO Acrylic


C Jerome

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I have been thinking for a while about my options for upgrading the lighting on my two nano-reefs. A few weeks ago I saw SoundWave’s pre-post regarding the LED DIY he put together and have followed the subsequent write-up and discussion on RC. I thought wow, half of that setup would be nice on my nano! This led me to further research on NR.com where I found lots of great posts and information regarding LED lighting that I missed somehow over the past months. Reading though most of the full build threads has given me a good idea of what I want to build and how to do it (thanks for the inspiration!). I am relatively capable DIY’er with a variety of experiences, though I am not an LED expert so I am sure I will seek guidance through the project from those more knowledgeable on the subject.

 

The basic plan is to build two separate lighting systems, one for each of my tanks, at the same time for a little economy of scale:

 

BioCube29 (which I just purchased used, once I have the LEDs in I will set up and transfer everything from my BC14 to this tank) The array will be 4 rows of 6 columns 50/50 white/blue in a simple alternating pattern. I plan to add some SPS and maybe a clam so I should add a UV or two, I will run these off a separate driver so I can run both the others at 1000mA. I also plan to put two or three LEDs run off a separate driver and power supply over the rear center area as a fuge light. The power supplies and project box with the bucks and dimmers will be in the stand with wire running down from the hood.

 

Custom Acrylic AIO Nano on my desk at work (built buy thecowkid) show area is 11.4wide by 6.25 deep and about 8 inches tall. I have yet to decide how to mount it, options are my 2x18w PC Satalite fixture, a 2x9w coralife fixture (a local club member dumped it in their fuge so its trashed but the case is good ;-) ), build a simple wooden one, or getting the heat sink a little bigger and just using that as the fixture. The array will be 12 LEDs 50/50 white/blue both driven at 1000mA on the same power supply. The power supply will be next to the tank with a small project box for the bucks and dimmers.

 

I will separate the parts list below by tank for the big items then below that I will have a sum list that will include the smaller parts that will be needed for both.

I am a measure twice cut once kind of guy so I would like to get everything straight, order the parts, then assemble. Obviously I may need to be flexible with the design as I go but I do not want to be putting it together and realize I am missing little part X that cost 79 cents with $9 shipping!

 

 

BioCube29

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White Star PCB Mounted - ETG Tech.com - 12 @ $6.00 ea = $72.00

Cree XR-E Royal Blue Star PCB Mounted - ETG Tech.com - 12 @ $6.00 ea = $72.00

Wired BuckPuck Drivers 1000mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer- LEDSupply - 4 @ $19.99 ea = $79.96

Heatsink - 'Medium size' 7.29x14 inches. HeatsinkUSA - $29.17

Power Supply 24V @ 6.5A POTRANS POWER SUPPLY(is this the best one for this setup) - MPJA.com – 2@ $14.95ea=$29.90

Fans 12V(wired in series to blue LED supply) New Egg – one 120mm see link below in total section, and using one of the OEM as it is still new.

UV & Fuge LED Driver 3W~6W Constant Current External LED Driver (100V~240V AC) dealextreme 2@ $10.85=$21.70

UV LED - 3W UV Light 410nm LED SKU: S003246 Kaidomain 2@$8.16=16.32

Fuge LED - CREE P4 Warm White 3000K DIA.20MM LED SKU: S006104 Kaidomain 2@$6.03=$12.06

Connectors

61132 Mulit Pin(12) Connector 1@ $3.39

61172 Mulit Pin(12) Connector 1@ $3.39

 

 

 

Acrylic AIO

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White PCB Mounted - ETG Tech.com - 6 @ $6.00 ea = $36.00

Cree XR-E Royal Blue PCB Mounted - ETG Tech.com - 6 @ $6.00 ea = $36.00

Wired BuckPuck Drivers 1000mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer- LEDSupply - 2 @ $19.99 ea = $39.98

Heatsink - 'Small size' 5.375x9 inches - HeatsinkUSA - $18

Power Supply 24V @ 6.5A POTRANS POWER SUPPLY - MPJA.com – $14.95

Fans 12V(powered with LED supply) New Egg – Used one 120mm over heat sink and one of the smaller fan to cool the PS, see links below in total list.

 

Multi pin connectors

61126 Mulit Pin(6) Connector 1@ $2.29

61166 Mulit Pin(6) Connector 1@ $2.29

 

 

 

Total

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White PCB Mounted - ETG Tech.com - 18 @ $6.00 ea = $108

Cree XR-E Royal Blue PCB Mounted - ETG Tech.com - 18 @ $6.00 ea = $108

Cree XR-E Optics - ETG Tech.com - 12 @ $1.00 each = $14.00 (6@60degrees, 6@80degrees)

 

Wired BuckPuck Drivers 1000mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer- LEDSupply - 6 @ $19.99 ea = $119.94

 

Heatsink - - HeatsinkUSA - 3 units=$53.17

 

Screws 100 Qty - 18-8 Stainless size 4-40 X 3/8" Amazon.com

Washers 100 Qty Nylon Flat Washer #4 .120" ID x .281" OD x .045" Thick Amazon.com

(both the above are sold by SmallParts but fulfilled by amazon.com so its eligible for Amazon prime or super saver shipping (over $25))

 

Drill Bit – 4/40 Drill Tap set available at home stores about $5

 

WH24-09-25 White 24 Gauge Stranded, 25' Spool - Willy's Electronics - $3.50

WH24-06-25 Blue 24 Gauge Stranded, 25' Spool - $3.50

50-3000 Qualitek 60/40 0.032" Solder: 0.6 oz Tube - $2.29

SPT1182-6WH AC White Cord 2.39

CF14F 1/4" Black Split Loom 10 feet $1.80

CF38F 3/8" Black Split Loom 10 feed $2.40

2487 DC Jack, 2.5MM x 5.5MM, Snap-in Mount, Plastic Housing - 4@1.69=$6.76

TC258 DC Power Cord 2.5mmx5.5mm- 4@2.59= $10.36

e1034sf General 18-4 Conductor Cable 25feet@.28=$7.00

61132 Mulit Pin(12) Connector 1@ $3.39

61172 Mulit Pin(12) Connector 1@ $3.39

61126 Mulit Pin(6) Connector 1@ $2.29

61166 Mulit Pin(6) Connector 1@ $2.29

32220 Prewired connector 1@ 1.29

Assorted Fan Finger Guards $6.50

 

Power Supply 24V @ 6.5A POTRANS POWER SUPPLY - MPJA.com – 3@ $14.95= 44.85

6FT IEC Power Cord UL LISTED - MPJA.com – 3@ $2.49 = $7.47

4503KN ALCO PKG-70, 1/8" SHAFT RED PLASTIC KNO 6@.75=$4.50

15521BX 8.8in BLACK PLASTIC CABINET 1 @ $7.95

15883BX 7.25" X 4.5" X 2.52" BLACK PLASTIC BOX 1 @ $5.49

16830HS 6" BLACK HEATSHRINK ASSORTMENT 1 @ $3.95

 

Fans 12V(powered with LED supply) New Egg

35-114-064 CASEFAN DYNATRON |DF126025PL-3/4G R 2@$3.99=$7.98 (60mm)

35-150-007 FAN COOLINGFAN MASSCOOL FD08025S1M4 2@$1.79=$3.58 (80mm)

35-168-006 CASE FAN IPCQUEEN|IPC-12025 R 2@$3.99=$7.98 (120mm)

Artic Thermal Compound NewEgg $6.99

 

UV & Fuge LED Driver 3W~6W Constant Current External LED Driver (100V~240V AC) dealextreme 2@ $10.85=$21.70

 

UV LED - 3W UV Light 410nm LED SKU: S003246 Kaidomain 2@$8.16=16.32

Fuge LED - CREE P4 Warm White 3000K DIA.20MM LED SKU: S006104 Kaidomain 2@$6.03=$12.06

 

Flat Aluminum Bar 1/16" x 3/4" x 6' - Lowes Item#216058 - $7.08

Electrical Tape - Have it

Soldering Iron - Have it

Shipping Charges - $ TBD

 

 

Questions

 

  1. Should I do five rows on the biocube to get full coverage? --> Going with 4x6 array
  2. Will drilling then using the self threading/tapping screws be alright? I have read conflicting reports. -->going with the flow, will be using 4-40 screws and tapping the holes
  3. If I use these screws, what size bit do I want to pre drill with? -->N/A
  4. Is the thermal compound alright and will one be enough?
  5. I have a Weller Soldering Gun, will this do the trick with a fresh tip, yes? Or should I just buy a cheepie precision one, for the same price? --> Okay to use just dont overheat the LED!!
  6. Better to run the heat sink fins side to side or front to back? --> either is okay
  7. If I run two fans in the bio cube would it work to put one on the heat sink blowing down and then one in one of the stock fan spaces and leave the other empty for venting?
  8. Recommendations for the UV LED set up, LED, Driver, PowerSupply(can I run the driver off the blue LED powersupply?
    Is there a better option for the UV LED Driver? I read in the reviews that they used to ship one that would power two LEDs(Perfect...) but the one they are shipping now actually matches the title and only will do one.
  9. Recomendation on LED for fuge light, I will use a second driver as above and another power supply.

 

 

 

Look forward to comments and suggestions

 

Best Regards

Jerome

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1. Don't think 5 will be necessary. You can get away with 4. Just make sure your side to side spacing on the LEDs is setup right for the 60 degree optics (about 2"-2.5")

 

2. You can use them, but make sure you get the Plastite/tri-lobe screws that is designed for this. Tapping is more labor, but guarantees that there won't be any damage (stripped screw heads, damaged holes, snapped screws, etc.). I don't think the ones McMaster Carr carries are designed for metals. You will have to find them somewhere else.

 

3. 4-40 - 0.0990"-0.1039"

 

4. AS5 is great, and it goes a long way when you only use a thin film like you are supposed to.

 

5. Whats the wattage?

 

6. If you are going to have fans blowing down on the heatsink, it doesn't matter.

 

7. I would have the fans blowing in, and leave both original fan posistions open for ventilation.

 

8. This will run two UV LEDs on line voltage

 

9. Warm white P4 here or here

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I know the 5 rows are not necessarily needed but if I am going to do I don't want to end up saying oh it would have been nice with those extras, any second thoughts?

 

The optics... I feel like I read and saw photos in a thread, that I cannot find, about someone who was just using what looked like cone shaped reflectors, no full blown optic lenses, can anyone put their finger on this post? Would this be an option for the biocube to maintain spread while increasing focus a bit down?

 

Also related to the optics/number of LEDs I did some measuring of the hood after I stripped out the original lights. It looks like the largest open rectangle can hold a heat sink roughly 16 inches long x 7 wide. There is another space about 12.5 by 3.5 between the stock fan mounts.

 

I have arranged for some shop time and access to a drill press and nice tools, so I think i am going to do the drill and tap like everyone else.

 

The soldering gun is a Weller Standard 7200 it says it 1amp, does not say the watts, looks like its not sold anymore, the replacement model is 75 watts so its at least that but may be up to 140.

 

As for the fans, would it be better to have the two fans set up with one on the heat sink and one drawing air into the hood and leave one of the stock fan places open for venting or leave both stock holes open for venting and put two fans on the heat-sink staggered so they cover the most channels(my only concern with this is the lack of room air being forced into the hood and hot air just being circulated around)

 

Added the UV and Fuge info the the project list above.

 

more to add this evening...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ordered today:

UV LED - 3W UV Light 410nm LED SKU: S003246 Kaidomain 2@$8.16=16.32

Fuge LED - CREE P4 Warm White 3000K DIA.20MM LED SKU: S006104 Kaidomain 2@$6.03=$12.06

UV & Fuge LED Driver 3W~6W Constant Current External LED Driver (100V~240V AC) dealextreme 2@ $10.85=$21.70

Fan Controllers (3) @ 2.69 = $8.07

SubTotal: $36.45

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Question about those UV LEDs.

 

Any idea what the specs are for them? I was thinking about pulling some into my project, but I do not know how thye will fit in.

 

Thanks, and sorry for the small thread hijack.

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Thanks.

 

You must have some kind of telepathic connection to LED posts here. I do not know if I have seen a question go longer than five minutes before you have an answer.

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Just ordered...

Wired BuckPuck Drivers 1000mA External Dimming Control w/ Potentiometer- LEDSupply - 6 @ $19.99 ea = $119.94 (called and ask if he would comp shipping and he agreed)

 

Next up call ETG for LEDs!

 

LEDs ordered and out for mounting...

 

I found out that 80 degree optics are available, anyone have experience with these. May be a a good solution for the biocube front row of LEDs to give more PAR at the sand but still spread the light to cover the larger foot print.

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I did the same. I did 16 x 7.29 and I also have a spare heat sink I might cut to put in between the two fans. Not sure if that is really worth the effort or no though.

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I went back and forth but decided to get a 7.29 x 14, I am closely following Minadin's build that he did for his nano cube. I am going to do similar spacing but try to space them a little wider left to right. I dont actually have the hood of the bc29 at my house as its in storage right now so I only have a crude measured drawing but I think my heat sink will need to be trimmed a little bit to allow for the fan in the hood.

 

Any input on using some of the 80 degree optics in place of the 60s. I probably wont use any optics on the LEDs over the rock work given Minadin's experience, but I would like to keep some nice Acans colored up or a clam on the sand bed. The 80s would allow me to get a little better coverage with my wider spacing.

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I went back and forth but decided to get a 7.29 x 14, I am closely following Minadin's build that he did for his nano cube. I am going to do similar spacing but try to space them a little wider left to right. I dont actually have the hood of the bc29 at my house as its in storage right now so I only have a crude measured drawing but I think my heat sink will need to be trimmed a little bit to allow for the fan in the hood.

 

Any input on using some of the 80 degree optics in place of the 60s. I probably wont use any optics on the LEDs over the rock work given Minadin's experience, but I would like to keep some nice Acans colored up or a clam on the sand bed. The 80s would allow me to get a little better coverage with my wider spacing.

 

The lenses are so cheap, you might as well order a bunch and experiment.

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MPJA order just placed.

My card is worn out for today...

Tomorrow New egg for fans and thermal paste then Willy's for wires and stuff.

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Okay, ordered from willys, and new egg today, so that should be everything except the screws.

I decided to go in another direction with the connecting wires from the power supplies/project box to the hood, I am going to use a molex type 12 conductor connector in place of several DC connectors. I will updated my list soon.

 

Jerome

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Okay, everything is ordered and in route except for the LEDs!

I still need to pick up the tap and drill set locally.

The fans arrived and are a little thicker than I realized, I am using a 120mm over the heat sinks, it will not be an issue on the pico as it will be open top but could be for the biocube. I plan to cut a hole in the lid and purchased a nice finger guard cover to give it a finished look but I don't know if its going to fit. Would it be terrible if I have to shave down some of the fins to get it to fit?

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You would be fine doing that. The heatsinks we use are generally oversized and more for area coverage more than anything. It's a nice saftey factor to have, and the heatsinks aren't really that expensive for what we get. Taking the fins down a little to make the fan fit won't hurt things at all.

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Okay good to know. When i go to the shop to drill the holes I will have access to machining equipment and will shave down an insert if necessary.

I found out my LEDs will not ship from ETG until tomorrow so they will not arrive until next Friday, bummer. However... it just struck me to call and ask if they will ship priority mail, which Anna said they could so maybe they will arrive sooner!

Does anyone know the spacing of the holes on the star board so maybe I can get them drilled before the LEDs come? What is the best way to do this? Figure out the spacing I want and then draw a grid (with each intersection being where a hole is to be drilled) first the vertical lines that set the left right spacing then the two horizontal lines for each row for the top and bottom screws/LED.

 

Jerome

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When you say 2 to 2.5 inches side to side spacing is it from the center of the LED or from the edge of the star? My heat sink is 14 wide, I was just measuring some options and I was thinkiing 2.25 to 2.33 spacing left to right.

Should I just distribute them evenly top to bottom?

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Center to center. Even spacing front to back will give the most even lighting. You can usually get away with a little wider spacing there as it's less noticable when looking from the front.

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Okay, I just did a little full size lay out drawing on paper for spacing. Right now I have the first LED in the bottom left of the heat sink 5/8 in from the left and 5/8 in from the bottom. Then the left to right spacing is 2.5 inches to the center of the next LED and the top bottom is 1 7/8.

The first and last column will have to have spacing slightly compressed because of necessary cutouts in the heat sink.

Will the left right spacing be okay, I will probably use no optics on the rear three rows and possibly 60 or 80 degree optics on the front row. Obviously I dont want spotlighting but at the same time I want the coverage. What do you think, too wide, just right, making a gamble?

 

Jerome

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I am not an expert or even novice at sketchup, I have drawn an exact layout, I will scan at work tomorrow and post.

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