kveekx Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Hey nano-reef I have had a razor led board laying around(pictured) I was wondering how the wiring would need to go for me to have a cheap Razor nano. Incase the pic is too small the screw down wire things on the side say A+ and B+ on 1 side and A- and B- on the other. A is the white channel and B is blue. Thats all I know about it really. I would like to use these drivers with it but Im not sure how. http://www.rapidled.com/0-10v-dimmable-nano-driver-with-potentiometer/ Link to comment
Horerczy Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I think that would work. Not 100% sure. Not at my computer to bring up datasheets. Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 I think that would work. Not 100% sure. Not at my computer to bring up datasheets. Thanks for imput! Heres the table I think your looking for Would I just put each end of the wire from the driver on opposite sides? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Based on some quick math that should provide enough forward voltage for your needs. You will want to connect the + terminal of the drivers to the + terminal on the board for a channel then connect the - terminal of the driver to the - teminal of the board with the same letter. easy peasy. Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Based on some quick math that should provide enough forward voltage for your needs. You will want to connect the + terminal of the drivers to the + terminal on the board for a channel then connect the - terminal of the driver to the - teminal of the board with the same letter. easy peasy. Sweet! This will be as cheep and quick as I thought! Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 BUMP! Can I get one more person that agrees this will work?! Link to comment
MeepNand Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Not necessarily related, but those violets are the EXACT SAME as the ones I got from leds-global.com. Holy cow. Should work fine IMO. As long as you have the correct voltage, the leds will light up. Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Not necessarily related, but those violets are the EXACT SAME as the ones I got from leds-global.com. Holy cow. Should work fine IMO. As long as you have the correct voltage, the leds will light up. Could you tell me how to calculate the correct voltage? I used to know but now I dont Link to comment
MeepNand Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Could you tell me how to calculate the correct voltage? I used to know but now I dont V(pwrspply) >= V(led) * (number of leds) This is assuming the - of the leds are connected to the + on the next one. That is "series" wiring. The other type of wiring, "parallel", is where you wire the leds' + together and the leds' - together. Then, each led gets the full voltage of the power supply, but draws extra current. So 3 leds in series might draw 10.8v and 700ma. Those same 3 leds would draw 3.7v and 2100ma is wired in parallel. Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 V(pwrspply) >= V(led) * (number of leds) This is assuming the - of the leds are connected to the + on the next one. That is "series" wiring. The other type of wiring, "parallel", is where you wire the leds' + together and the leds' - together. Then, each led gets the full voltage of the power supply, but draws extra current. So 3 leds in series might draw 10.8v and 700ma. Those same 3 leds would draw 3.7v and 2100ma is wired in parallel. now I remember learning this in physics last year! haha Thanks for the refresher. It looks like its a series circut. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 If you look carefully at the board see if one of the positive terminals you should be able to follow little ridges on the board to an led through all the leds on that channel then make it to the negative terminal. If the ridges branch off then theres a parallel circuit. I cannot see much of the circuit from the board because of the lighting. I can tell you that it looks needlessly complicated though. The original power supply for the Nano (60W) has an output of 15V 5A (Which is 75W) which supports the idea these strings run in parallel at some point. On the other hand the 160W version (2.66 times the power for Three times the LEDs) outputs 36V at 5.9A (212.4W or 2.832 times the wattage at 2.4 times voltage and 1.18 times current) I would calculate that Channel A would need about 18V to operate at 700mA if all leds are in series. Channel B is closer to 25V. If it is run in parallel I would imagine that the alphanumeric code to the top left of the diodes have something to do with it the strings order while the lets to the top left are indicative of the color that's supposed to be there CW: Cool White, WW: Warm White, DB: Deep (royal) Blue, P: Purple (Violet), SB: Something (solid maybe?) Blue. Those letters to the top left also give us clues that the 10,000K board was produced first and because it's more economic the lettering wasn't changed to make the boards for the 16,000K model. Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 If you look carefully at the board see if one of the positive terminals you should be able to follow little ridges on the board to an led through all the leds on that channel then make it to the negative terminal. If the ridges branch off then theres a parallel circuit. I cannot see much of the circuit from the board because of the lighting. I can tell you that it looks needlessly complicated though. The original power supply for the Nano (60W) has an output of 15V 5A (Which is 75W) which supports the idea these strings run in parallel at some point. On the other hand the 160W version (2.66 times the power for Three times the LEDs) outputs 36V at 5.9A (212.4W or 2.832 times the wattage at 2.4 times voltage and 1.18 times current) I would calculate that Channel A would need about 18V to operate at 700mA if all leds are in series. Channel B is closer to 25V. If it is run in parallel I would imagine that the alphanumeric code to the top left of the diodes have something to do with it the strings order while the lets to the top left are indicative of the color that's supposed to be there CW: Cool White, WW: Warm White, DB: Deep (royal) Blue, P: Purple (Violet), SB: Something (solid maybe?) Blue. Those letters to the top left also give us clues that the 10,000K board was produced first and because it's more economic the lettering wasn't changed to make the boards for the 16,000K model. I noticed the lettering too, there are 2 RBs where it says CW. It looks like it runs parallel at a few spots now that I look closer. Would the drivers mentioned in the first post work? That's the only part Im still wondering about. Thanks everyone for all the help so far! Link to comment
Horerczy Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 After staring obsesively at the board I think this is a close aproximation of a Circuit Diagram for the board. Honestly looking at it and comparing it to the drivers minimum requirements and the voltage requests of the XT-E series I don't think that channel A will have a high enough voltage request to meet the minimum requirements of the driver. Channel B would probably be fine. Link to comment
kveekx Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/MaxpectMCPCBARRLCircuitDiagram_zps00a6e383.jpg.html'> After staring obsesively at the board I think this is a close aproximation of a Circuit Diagram for the board. Honestly looking at it and comparing it to the drivers minimum requirements and the voltage requests of the XT-E series I don't think that channel A will have a high enough voltage request to meet the minimum requirements of the driver. Channel B would probably be fine. Thanks, Ill keep looking for drivers then. Link to comment
kveekx Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Im still stuck... Can someone please point me in the direction of 2 drivers that would work? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Get some Meanwell LDD-700HWs and a power souce. They'll work for this. If you snatch up Ben's typhon controller and you can do sunrise and sunset with it since LDD drivers are PWM driven. http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700hw-led-driver/ Drivers http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/180w-48v-3-75a-dc-power-supply/ Power Supply. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/340698-diy-led-stuff-all-needs-to-go/ Ben's Sale Thread. Link to comment
kveekx Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Get some Meanwell LDD-700HWs and a power souce. They'll work for this. If you snatch up Ben's typhon controller and you can do sunrise and sunset with it since LDD drivers are PWM driven. http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700hw-led-driver/ Drivers http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/180w-48v-3-75a-dc-power-supply/ Power Supply. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/340698-diy-led-stuff-all-needs-to-go/ Ben's Sale Thread. Shoot Just minutes too late. I JUST placed a order with Rapid for a new full set up! Thanks for all the help though Ill be able to take that info into future led set ups! Link to comment
Horerczy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 What did you order from Rapid? Link to comment
kveekx Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 What did you order from Rapid? 1Deep Red 1Cyan 1Blue 6Royal Blue 3Neutral White 3UV Link to comment
Reefkid88 Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 So I take you never went thru with wiring this up ? Link to comment
farkwar Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 So I take you never went thru with wiring this up ? That would be nice for the guy asking about the Fluval Edge 6 gallon thread, couple threads down. CNCReef still has EVil's(NanoCustom's whatever) EDGE 6 heatsink for sale. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.