Jump to content
Innovative Marine Aquariums

my "CUSTOM"SeaLife 20" MH retro conversion


KrackerG

Recommended Posts

Haven't put much into the name of this beast, but the numbers are all there! What more can a 10 gallon AGA need?? To give you a better idea of what kind of light I have, here are the Specs:

 

- 1x 70w 10,000K Ushio Metal Halide

- 1x 70w WPI Metal Halide Electronic Ballast

- 2x 40w Custom Sea Life Actinic blue

- 1x LED moonlight

- 2x cool clear 29CFM 12v fans w/ 3 blue LEDs

- GLASS shield

Link to comment
  • Replies 213
  • Created
  • Last Reply

... notice how the mounting holes on the ballast line up under the hood. When first seen, you would think it was made for a MH ballast!

 

NOTE: Aromat ballasts will NOT fit under the reflector. These WPI ballasts are thinner.

Link to comment

...after sliding the stock ballasts over and installing the 70w MH ballast, I worked on the reflector. To make room for the added DE HQI socket, I drilled out the rivets holding the flo tubes and scooted them a tad over towards the edges. I drilled using the bulb clips as the template, covering up the existing holes.

 

Becareful dilling, always wear eye protection, and use clamps to hold down the reflector.

 

Plus drill bits are sharp...last week, I had a visit to the ER. Reason: Drill bit into 2 fingers!!:*( email me for xray copies:)

Link to comment

THE STOCK FAN IS HORRIBLE! If you have a CSL fixture, I'm sure you are aware of the noise the stock fan creates. I used 2 quiet computer Turbo Cool brand 29 CFM (airflow) while the stocker was rated at 30 CFM. MY 3" fans are made of clear plastic and have 3 blue LED shinning towards the fan blades. This looks cool but does nothing for the tank.

 

The DE HQI socket is mounted in the center where the moonlight was. I am using 2 GE LEDs mounted behind the metal halide socket. Personally, I not a big fan of the moonlight...lights out is lights out...goodnight.zzz

Link to comment

I considered mounting the DE socket bracket from the underside, but that required cutting squares out of the reflector and bolting it in from the underside. Instead, I cut out some of the regent fixture's reflector material to cover the MH socket bracket and it covers the little bit of exposed wires going to the socket.

 

Using a computer power cord (cut off the end), drilled a hole for the power cord in the side of the fixture for up top near the other cords. You can find the grommets at any hardware store. BONUS ITEM: I drilled another smaller hole for the fan and LED moonlight power cords. Notice the 3 "fat" power cords and 1 (2 in 1) small wire?:

Link to comment

I can honestly say the light was just plain awesome in its stock condition, but I felt the need to go further than awesome… maybe a little extreme!!

 

Well in “light” of recent buzz, the owner has decided to close shop (figures this would happen right after I just bought it) :*( The hood comes with the 2 florescent Power Compact 40 watt bulbs... thank god the 4-pin 40-watt CSL Power Compact bulbs are and will still be made. I also heard something about a 32w model made by someone else that works good...But...without no true testing, who really knows which is better...anyone know more about bulbs replacements for this hood?

 

I wrote this thread because my results are sure to impress you as it did me. This conversion may not be for everone, it was working fine before, I agree. I did this upgrade after 1 month of ownership. Now if CSL stayed in business, would I have voided my warrany? Probably so! I may of waited a little longer down the road....now I'm stuck w/ a 10kk 40w that may never get used. No warranty either. SOOOO, consider this a thread ....by KrackerG, about "How to VOID the warranty"on your CSL PC light... BUT in the same token, HOW TO HAVE A KICK ASSSS CSL MHPC LIGHT!!! HMMMMM, HOW DOES:

 

15 WATTS PER GALLON LOOK!........................

 

I'm working on taking pics of the bulbs as they are lit. All I get is a bright white glow so why bother. Anyone know what to use??... besides sunglasses and SPF sunblock?:))

Any comments, questions, remarks, whys, are greatly appriciated...thanks! :P

B)I do not recommenc you do this modification unless you know what your getting into. This modification most def voids all warrantiesB)

 

.

Link to comment

Thanks R-Buddha! DAP! Oh, I forgot to mention I replaced the plexiglass shield w/ REAL glass from Lowe's. I carefully removed the black plastic piece from the plexiglass and glued it to the new glass glass.

 

air is blowing in from blue fan in hitting the MH ballast first. The air coming out has the slightest hint of warm, but is blowing out lots of air, great circulation. I'm seeing a tunnel vacuum effect. The fixture is somewhat sealed, so as air is drawn in, it has nowhere to flow except out the exhaust. Heat is NOT an issue. EVERYTHING IS GREAT!

 

some results so far;)

 

 

78.6 first pic is 8am EST this morning

81.5 held steady at 81.5 about 5pm

 

--- still looks awesome!

--- working awesome!

--- fixture remains cool same as temp when off

--- evaporation same (about 1/2 gal ,2 days)

 

 

MH adds the MUST HAVE "shimmer" effect, IMO. Here are 2 photos of digi-thermo readout...same as temp showing in tank on thermo.

Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha

my only question is, is it high enough off the water? Im seriously thinkin about doin this since my regent f*ckin lights are just too much modding to mess with. You got any wiring pics?

Link to comment

That is one Clean Modification, I love how it looks factory.

 

I have the same light but in a 24" 2x65 model, any suggestions on the same MH modification. Any problems you see?

 

Im definetly thinking about doing this.

Link to comment

HEY!!! Thanks guys for all the high opinions…The "blazing inferno" sitting next to me is performing like a champ! In the 5 days it's been up, temps are balanced between 79 and 82, hood temps are predictably cool, evaporation is slightly more... My light is exactly what I wanted to accomplish and more. I’m planning to clean up the wires a bit; remove some of the extra and trash the screw cap connects. I want to heat shrink and solder all my connections ex-car audio guy here. Cleaning up the wires will allow more air to flow within. I also plan to add a potentiometer to adjust the overall fan speed up or down via voltage…wanna’ get it running around 9v…

Link to comment

LOL, R_Buddha! I have a 20L AGA too that needs lights... already got all the parts for two 70w DIY Regent/Aromat off the back wall. That was my plan but now I'm thinkin' too ...first I gotta' find a 30", then I'll make it a twin! THE TWINS!!! :) :)

 

JimmyZ, good luck w/ your setup!

Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha

no heat problems between the 70 and pcs? My plan would probably just to load 2 70's into it instead of keeping the pcs, but either way your tank is gona grow like mad now. oops forgot to ask you, did you get a piece of uv glass cut to fit that? Otherwise youre dumpin so radiation on your tank, but im sure you covered that right? :P

Link to comment

Tanks!;)

 

My rocks are just starting to grow coralline algae. I have my janitor crew in there so far, that’s it! Taking it slow, as I’ve been told. I got the right lights, wouldnt you agree..?

 

..what should/can I put in this tank??

Link to comment

how can i tell what type of glass i have? is there some type of uv meter? the lowe's guy did a great job of cutting it :P and said all glass has some uv protection...

Link to comment
Reefer_Buddha

well as long as its not the piece of acrylic that came with the CSL im sure it would be ok but you could just ask if its uv coated.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions


×
×
  • Create New...