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My 70w 20K Aqualine/Highhorse Nanocube


ccjung

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Hi Guys

 

This is my first run at my attempt to show you how to put a 70w MH into your Nanocube DX.

 

This is a First Edition canopy with the intermediate bulkhead removed. It flows better, but the real issue is radiation.. There is so much radiative emission caused by the arc that things heat up very quickly.. Couple that with the effort to convect away lots of air, and there are lots of technical challenges that lie ahead..

 

In preliminary testing I have been impressed with results, but fear that the high color temp (20000K), the lux meter I have may not have the right frequency sensitivity to detect its luminosity correctly..

 

So far tho, here are the specs

 

Nanocube DX First Edition w/ Revised Intermediate Bulkhead

70w Aqualine 20000K Metal Halide

Fulham Highhorse 70 Electronic HID Ballast

2 x 60mm Fans / 12v DC

 

Performance

5400 lux @ 1 ft (vs 4500 lux @ 1 ft Stock) - note above...

Temps ---- > 158F...

 

The canopy itself is not too hot, just areas that are subject to direct exposure to the radiation coming from the bulb...

 

Here are some pics. Bear in mind guys, this is a very very preliminary prototype.

 

Chris

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Not going to put it on a tank yet. Still got lots of stuff to work out, hence the 126w I made earlier.

 

I prefer to test on one of my test cubes, instead of messing with my corals. When I feel things are hunky dory, I put the new lighting upgrade on..

 

Im from the South Bay in Los Angeles.. You??

 

Chris Jung

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how's the heat factor with that thing? seems like since it's packed in so tightly with the case around it that it would melt everything.

 

i assume you've already thought of this, but does that piece of glass protect everything from UV rays?

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Heat is my biggest issue. The air temps are ok, but the sheer amount of radiation so much, that the name of the game becomes trying to cool down whatever else gets heated up..

 

I got the glass from a Home Depot 300w Security Light. Its tempered, so that was my first concern. Im assuming its got some uv blocking abilty, but not too sure.. This is an early run and I expect to do much more before anything gets near my tank..

 

Chris

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yep.. its about "lettin it run hot" and then dealing with it.. I'm impressed, but theres lots left.

 

It is alot of fun to watch these babys warm up.. Like revving a motorcycle!!!!

 

Chris

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I think that if you cool the surrounding area too well you can cause stress from thermal fatigue and eventually crack the bulb.. Im not 100% sure tho Sergeant, so I think Vic should tackle this one..

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With DE bulbs, you do not want fans directly cooling them. I'll find the articles for you to read later.

 

As for UV, the areas where light comes through need to be shielded with a UV blocking material (glass, lexan, ...). Any small UV leak can destroy your corals and your eyes.

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If I was you, I'd space the reflector off the plastic with some ceramic spacers. As far as you can get it. 1/4"?

 

Then, block the holes in the reflector and fan cool the backside of the reflector with the small air gap you created with the ceramic spacers.

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Thanks jmt...

 

Appreciate the information.. Thanks for pushin me.. I've had guys pushing me for a long time..

 

If you dont mind, can I pick your brain?

 

1. I'm not getting that great of lux readings (mid 5000s at 1 ft). My PC upgrades were in the 6500 with just the 2 cheap T-5s. Is this due to the bandwidth of my meter?

 

2. UV material.. Does basically anything with an index of refraction greater than air "filter" the uv material? or is a specific coating needed..

 

3. Do you see any benefit to placing the bulbs longitudinally vs Transverse, ie - vs | ?

 

Thanks jmt..

 

Chris

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Im actually planning on enclosing the bulb in its own extruded aluminum housing, then convection cooling that unit via side mount fans and the rear fans.

 

When I use a series II hood, the airflow characteristics will be much better..

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For now, i bought some aluminum 1/4 spacers to use mounting the bulb holder.

 

I plan to use lots of kevlar on the backside of the heatshield and wherever theres a junction between heatshield and plastic...

 

Since this is my own baby, i will spare no expense.. I also plan on throwing in some Actinics or Daylights depending on the final bulb configuration..

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Ok guys. I'm going to JBJ to move get some SEs. I love this discussion because its something thats exciting.. I know cramming PCs got old, but I had to learn how to cool this thing down..

 

If anyone wants to talk MH, ill be on the 405.

 

310-770-2153

 

Chris

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The plastic that the hood is made from has a high flashpoint. So, it can withstand some heat.

 

The best thing I could think of would be to space the reflector/unit off the hood with ceramic spacers. Leave the holes in the reflector and run 2 fans to circulate air.

 

For the bulb, I would take the tempered glass you have, and build/find an aluminum box that is small enough to fit in the hood and has the same open dimensions that are the same as the glass.

 

Mount the endcaps and a reflector inside of the aluminum box and close it off with the glass.

 

Cut a square hole out of the original plastic splashguard so that it is not touching the tempered glass.

 

The fans should circulate through the hood, between the air gap created by the ceramic spacers, down into the reflector and around the metal box housing the DE bulb.

 

I know that's probably not that clear. So, sorry for that. I guess I can try and draw it out, but you know.

 

ANyone have a spare NC hood lying around?

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