This guide is great!

I am not sure if this was covered. I do not think I saw this anywhere. I think people should be aware that a six-line wrasse caught from the Philippines is a lot different then one caught in Fiji! In this case the Fijian caught fish have a much better mortality rate. I do not know the exact reasoning on this, but it is true and I have experienced this. Actually fish caught in the Philippines tend to do a lot poorer then caught elsewhere.

I would like to see more on compatibility in these various size tanks to be truly thorough.

Just my 2 nuts.

Great job though!

Igreen and others who have contributed:

Many Thanks!!!

This is a great guide. I've raised freshwater fish off and on for decades and never really had a desire to go to saltwater. Last year SWMBO decided she wanted a marine tank. That thought remained on the back burner until we stopped to check out a LFS that I had passed but never stopped in. They had some awesome looking reef tanks and this has kindled her interest again. In particular, the self contained units got her attention. So we're planning to get a tank and see what we can do.

I'm looking for the reef equivalent of the zebra danio or tiger barb - something that we're most likely to achieve success with. If she retains interest - and success would go a long way toward encouraging that - she may lean toward more exotic and difficult stock. Then again, maybe she'll be satisfied with a population of robust and compatible organisms.

The information you have in your article gives us a pretty good starting point on some choices. Were I to suggest any improvements, I might ask that you pick out the absolute best candidates for first time nano-reefers and mark them with a special icon or something like that.

thanks again,
hank

I did a search for this web link and this thread came up first but I still didnt see it in here....

http://fins.actwin.com/species/thumbnails....mp;c=13&f=2

The lay out with links and how to sort by either picture/scientific name /or common name works real well.

edit: that one was on the clown link, here is the one for more SW fish.
http://fins.actwin.com/species/index.php?t=1&f=2

I like that idea. Beginner fish are now colored green.

That's great! thank you.

This is a great guide, I keep signposting new reefers to it because it is so comprehensive. As I'm directing people across from Europe, it would be nice to see the volumes given as litres too.

Not precise, but rough conversions for the volumes used most frequently in the guide would be:

0.5_____2 litres
2.5_____10
5_______20
7_______25
10______40
20______75
30______110
55______210

At a risk of adding another layer of complexity, would it be possible to indicate which species are currently available as tank-bred or otherwise captive-bred? And to indicate those species (e.g. Banggai Cardinalfish) that are IUCN Appendix II listed under CITES ("endangered")?

Many thanks lgreen on a great resource.

First two done. I'll look into the CITES stuff.

Many thanks

hey Igreen, have you ever though about doing a guide just like the one you have created, but with "Inverts" instead? or has somebody already done this idea before?


thanks for the wondeful guide youve made!

Kenny.

Hi Kenny,
my vote would be for IGreen to focus on the fish guide rather than let it go and move on to something else.

It would be great if someone else would setp forward and start a similar guide on inverts though.

And then one on corals.

Of course, there is a "fish info database" and "coral info database" and "invertebrate database" and one wonders if material is being duplicated between these. Further... It strikes me that this sort of information might also benefit by being put into a Wiki.

-hank

Hey Hank.
Yeah, I understand what youre saying about Igreen focusing on the "fish info".
I was just wondering if he or somebody else can make a little database like what he's put up, but use it for "inverts".

oh yeah, the little databases that have coral, fish, and inverts....in my opinion, i think they SUCK!
im not saying i can do better, but man!, theres barely anything on there compared to what Igreen's put up!

anyhoo, it was just an idea. thanks for buzzin in Hank and thank you Igreen for typing up this guide!
very informative!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If an Invert Thread followed the collaborative model of this thread then it needs someone with the invert knowledge and experience to produce initial text and then the time to collate the observations posted by others into a skeleton document message to start the thread..

lgreen has already given us the model to follow..

I'd like to recommend that the Potter's Angel (Centropyge potteri) be either removed from the list or marked as red. In reality, they do get to be pretty big fish, though absolutely beautiful. As the original post states, 5" is about the average adult size. IMO, it would work in a 30+, but it might not be happy. Anyway, the other concern for it, with me at least, is that they are very poor at adapting to captive life.

This angel is comparable to the leopard wrasses; they ship terribly (arrive alive guaruntees don't usually cover this fish), and it may be very hard to adapt them to captive life. That being said, just like with the leopards, if you are lucky enough to find one that shipped well and is eating prepared foods, you should pounce.

I don't want to discourage anyone from buying this fish, because it isn't one of those species that is doomed as soon as it's captured, I just want people to be informed on it.

Forktail Blenny is not in here...
and harlequin bass

I actually do have an invert guide partially written that follows the same format. Not sure if or when I'll finish it.

lgreen I just wanted to thank you personally for the effort you put into this guide. I refer to it on a regular basis as I'm always trying to make sure whatever I put into a tank is well suited. I could go look each fish up in a book one by one, but this simple easy to follow guide makes it so much quicker. Someone mentions a fish and I can quickly check if it should even be considered. Thanks again!!

Is that partial invert guide up anywhere, or are you just working on it before you post it? Even partial is better than none Thanks again, I appreciate all the hard work.

I would add Masked Gobies to the list. (Coryphopterus personatus)

A little quick info:
- 1.4" maximum size
- Peaceful, shoaling species.

I would put them in the 10gal or bigger category, personally, as they are more active than most gobies their size. Maybe 5g.

I have 5 of them in my 20L, they form a tight little school and are now one of my favorite species. They spend alot more time swimming in open water than most gobies. They very readily accept flake/frozen foods, and seem very hardy. I have heard reports of them being jumpers, but mine have been well-behaved so far.

This is a great resource. I just want to contribute.

- Josh

Josh, how well do they handle flow?

They seem to be fine with it. I have about 1600gph of "total" flow moving through my 20L (powerheads + return), and they don't seem to have any problems handling it at all. That's 80x turnover. If they can handle that, they can handle anything.

I have noticed that they tend to stick close to the rockwork when the pumps are on, but the SECOND I hit the feed button and my pumps turn off, they go to the surface and wait. They are smart little fish; They made the association between pumps being off and food almost immediately.

They can "hover" in one spot even in the most intense flow, though it does seem to be quite a workout. It's funny to watch them hover in one spot, facing into the current, then all whip around in unison and do a 180 when the current switches to the other direction. (I use an SCWD on my return)

i love this guide!

are you sure about the painted frog fish? i have never had one but want one in my 20 gallon high i am thinking alone? any ideas thanks

Raising a thread back from the dead I have a Lawnmower Blenny in my 8 gallon (30L) along with a True Percula Clownfish and they are fine as long as I do weekly water changes.

I have 3 Percs in a 14g nano with standard equipment , only because my 24g aquapod is giving me problems cycling. I think the standard equipment on the 24g aquapod is inadequate. I am replacing the stock pump with an MJ 900 tonight and already have a Korila 2.

I only mention this because I would like to see the guide include a 14 gallon set up.

I've checked this list MANY times since I started my reef up.

I just used it again today to make a shopping list for the wife and I to go over to see what the LFS has

Thanks again for all the work done on this list!

VERY usefull! Thanks a ton!

If I could contribute anything, I would re-affirm previous confirmations on this thread that damsels are NOT compatable with many soft corals. I kept a blue fin in my 6 gal for over a year (he was very happy and healthy despite most people saying it was too small of a habitat for him) before realizing he was nipping my knya tree, star polyps and button polyps. Not cool damsel, not cool.

yellow stripe clingfish can go in a 10

You have nothing of the barnacle blenny, blah. 1 for a 10g tank!

i'd have to say no to any dragonett in anything less than 50 gallons. if you will do a search you can see where i tried to keep a mandarin in a 20L. yes i got him trained to eat frozen foods, but the little bastage had to be fed so much that it was playing hell with the rest of my tank.

About the fish listed on page 1, are they ordered to the particular size tanks for life or do you have to get a bigger tank? Pretty much, are the tanks sizes listed "minimum" tank sizes???

Thanks.

nice guide

I really enjoyed reading your guide...

Now do one for products and supplies for a Nano tank.

The tank sizes are definitly minimum in many cases. For example, the frogfish in a 5 gallon would need to be moved to at least a 30 gallon, from what I've read. I got a little bummed, because I got excited about getting a frogfish for a tank that will be about 15 gallons, then found out that that size is only possible for immature fish.

What is the min gallons i need to have a harelquin shrimp?

You could keep one in a 5g tank if you wanted to. Are you familiar with their eating habits and overall behavior? They are peaceful, but are easily startled and don't like fast moving or darting tank mates.

Mine was fine with my speedy pygmy angel and the gobies darting, but I have tons of rock for him to hide in and I have seen him take swings at the pygmy before. They can tolerate it on ocassion, but you don't want speedy little things buzzing by your shrimp constantly.

Sooo...what happened to this thread?

lgreen got butthurt in the lounge, so he's ticked.

's ok...it will reappear soon

Since LGREEN deemed to remove what was a very helpful guide I went back and got it off of web.archive.com

Fish Stocking Guide For Nano Reefs

By lgreen (copyright 2005-2007)

Table of Contents

I. Introduction
II. How To Use This Guide
III. Feeding Suggestions
IV. Nano Fish Compatibility
V. Nano Fish Listed By Tank Size (Updated w/ Seahorses!)
VI. Nano Fish Listed By Major Groups w/ Detailed Info
VII. Bibliography & Acknowledgments

I. Introduction

The purpose of this thread is to provide you a fairly comprehensive guide to fish for the nano reef.

As reefing in general is not an exact science the approach I have taken to organizing this information is to provide a framework that includes my knowledge of nano fish, but also to encourage others to share their experience and knowledge for the benefit of everyone.

II. How To Use This Guide

Basic Overview

There are four major sections to this guide: feeding suggestions, compatibility, fish by tank size, and fish by group. The feeding suggestions and compatibility sections are fairly self-explanatory. The compatibility section will include interaction of fish with corals and invertebrates. In the fish by tank size section a list of appropriate fish will follow each of the major divisions of tank sizes, as well, include a brief estimation of how many fish would appropriate for that tank size. In the fish by group section, more detailed information will be provided about the major group each fish belongs to with some specific notes about each fish when necessary. You will also see a estimated maximum size the fish will grow, the acceptable tank size (as socially practiced) and the ideal tank size (as suggested by fish books).

Things To Keep In Mind

-Some of this will surely be my opinion or the opinion of others. If you feel strongly against something I have said, please pm me so we can discuss it and make changes if necessary.
-This is just to get you started--ultimately you need to do more research on your fish choice before buying
-Also keep in mind I may list some things that are pushing it. I don’t know whether you are a beginner or expert, if you know how to do a water change or not, so I will assume anyone who uses this guide has some common sense and basic understanding of nano reefing. For example, the fact that I list some fish appropriate for a 0.5g and 2.5g tank, does not automatically mean you should keep a fish in a tank that size. Rather, it means if you are capable of maintaining the added bioload of keeping a fish in a tank that size, then these fish would be appropriate choices.
-Don’t forget to keep your bioload in mind. While a dwarf lionfish may only get 4-6”, due to their diet, the contribution to your tanks bioload will be much more significant.

How You Can Contribute To This Thread

Again, I would like to strongly encourage everyone to share his or her knowledge and experience. Please feel free to suggest additions, corrections, or other changes.

III. Feeding Suggestions (Coming Soon!!)

IV. Nano Fish Compatibility (Coming Soon!!)

V. Nano Fish Listed By Tank Size

Seahorses are listed by tank size with specific stocking suggestions in the Fish by Group section below.

0.5g Pico (Includes Red Sea 0.5g Deco Art) (1 extra small fish)

-Blue Neon Goby
-Catalina Goby [cold water]
-Clown Gobies
-Eviota Gobies
-Panda (Clown) Goby
-Redhead Goby
-Trimma Goby
-Yellow Neon Goby

2.5g Pico (Includes 2.5g Minibow, Eclipse Explorer, JBJ 3g Pico) (1 fish)

All of the above plus:
-Citron Goby
-Green Banded Goby (added by c'est ma)

5g (1 fish)

All of the above plus:
-Green Chromis Damsel
-Yellowtail blue Damsel

(NOTE: This seems to be a socially accepted practice, although most if not all damsels will eventually out grow a 5g tank)

7g (Includes 7g Minibow, 6g Eclipse, 6g CPR, 6g Nano Cube, 8g Aquawave) (1-2 fish)

Keep in mind that the 6g CPR and 6g Nano Cube lose some swimming area to the built in filtration. I would not recommend the clowns in either of these tanks. One clown in a 7g minibow should be ok though.

All of the above plus:
-Ocellaris Clownfish (False Percula) (1, if you want a pair, move up to 10g+)
-Percula Clownfish (True Percula) (1, if you want a pair, move up to 10g+)

10g (Includes 12g Aquapod, 12g Nano Cube, 12g Eclipse, 11g Via Aqua, 12g Biocube) (2-3 fish)

Keep in mind that the 12g aquapod and 12g nano cube lose some area due to the internal filtration. In reality the tank swimming area before rock is really only like 8 gallons. With these two tanks I would suggest 1-2 fish and some of the fish listed below may not be suitable for these tanks, but should be ok in a true 10g+.

All of the above plus:
-Yellow Assessor
-Blue Assessor
-Chalk Bass
-Lantern Bass
-Bicolor Blenny
-Tailspot Blenny (added by Steelhealr)
-Yellowtail Fang Blenny (V)
-Threadfin Cardinalfish
-Three Spot Damsel
-Talbot’s Damsel
-Three Stripe Damsel
-Firefish Goby
-Helfrich’s Firefish [$$$$!]
-Purple Firefish Goby
-Bicolor Psuedochromis
-Diadem Pseudochromis
-Fridmani (Orchid) Pseudochromis
-Purple Pseudochromis
-Scooter Blenny [with caution, not for beginners]
-Red Scooter Blenny [with caution, not for beginners]
-Painted Frogfish
-Wartskin Frogfish
-Blackray Shrimp Goby
-Orange Stripe Goby
-Orangespotted Goby
-Randall’s Shrimp Goby
-Yasha Hasha Goby
-Wheeler’s Shrimp Goby
-Yellow Watchman Goby
-Rainfordi Goby
-Royal Gramma
-Falco Hawkfish
-Flame Hawkfish
-Pearly (Yellowhead) Jawfish
-Possum Wrasse
-Sixline Wrasse (note: some believe 20g+ may be more suitable, if you buy one for a 10g, get it small)

20g (Includes 24g Aquapod, 24g Nano Cube, 20g Finnex M Tank) (3-5 fish)

All of the above plus:
-Atlantic Pygmy/Cherub Angelfish
-Coral Beauty Angelfish
-Flame Angelfish
-Halfblack Angelfish
-Rusty Angelfish
-Convict Blenny (note: these guys do not stay 4 inches like book says. can get up to 12" easy.)
-Midas Blenny
-Redspotted Blenny
-Redlip Blenny
-Bangaii Cardinalfish
-Orangestriped Cardinalfish
-Flame Cardinalfish
-Pajama Cardinalfish
-Clarki Clownfish
-Maroon Clownfish
-Orange Skunk Clownfish
-Pink Skunk Clownfish
-Tomato Clownfish
-Dwarf Golden Moray Eel (added by lakshwadeep)
-Bar Goby
-Blue Gudgeon Goby
-Green Mandarin Goby [with caution, not for beginners]
-Yellow Target Mandarin [with caution, not for beginners]
-Blackcap Basslet
-Arc Eye Hawkfish
-Longnose Hawkfish
-Bluespot Jawfish (added by fish n' pets)
-Dusky Jawfish (added by fish n' pets)
-Fu Manchu Lionfish (V)
-Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish (V)
-Dragon Pipefish [with caution, not for beginners]
-Banded Pipefish [with caution, not for beginners]
-Bluestripe Pipefish [with caution, not for beginners]
-Bennett’s Toby
-Valentini (Saddleback) Toby (placement in 20g min suggested by Bread)
-White Spot Toby
-Carpenter Flasher Wrasse
-Filamented Flasher Wrasse
-Fourline Wrasse (placement in 20g min suggested by Travis)
-Longfin Fairy Wrasse
-Redfin Fairy Wrasse
-Tricolor (Lubbock’s) Fairy Wrasse
-Twinspot Hogfish

30g (Includes 32g Finnex M Tank) (4-6 fish)

All of the above plus:
-Ebli’s Angelfish
-Lemonpeel Angelfish
-Potter’s Angelfish
-Dispar Anthias [with caution, not for beginners]
-Fathead (Sunburst) Anthias [not for beginners] (added by Pili)
-Longfin Anthias [w/ caution, not for beginners]
-Lawnmower Blenny [mega herbivore, keep in mind]
-Snowflake Eel
-Giant Frogfish
-Blue Spot Puffer
-Yellow Choris (Canary) Wrasse

VI. Nano Fish Listed By Fish Group & Fish

Angels (Dwarf)

Most dwarf angels are not good candidates for smaller nanos, but may fair well in larger nanos. In most cases dwarf angels range in maximum size from 2.5-6 inches. Generally the minimum tank size for any dwarf angel should be 20g, with a more ideal tank being in the 30g+ range. Keep in mind most dwarf angels, especially those from the centropyge family are omnivores and need a mixed diet of meat and algae. Using high protein foods will help prolong their brilliant colors. All other angelfish not listed here generally need a 55g tank minimally (dwarf) and in many cases a 75-125g minimum (large angels). Also keep in mind a dwarf angelfish should be one of the last fish you add to your nano as they can be territorial.

-Atlantic Pygmy/Cherub Angelfish (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Coral Beauty Angelfish (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Ebli’s Angelfish (6”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Flame Angelfish (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Halfblack Angelfish (3.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal
-Lemonpeel Angelfish (5.5”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Potter’s Angelfish (5”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Rusty Angelfish (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)

All Other Pygmy Angelfish (2.5”-3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)

Anthias

For the most part anthias belong in reef tanks of 55g or larger. In some cases you may be able to get away with a single male or female of some of the smaller varieties. Anthias are planktovores and meat eaters. Sometimes in the beginning they can be difficult to get established or feed, but if you are able to get a hold of a hardy specimen, they are fairly easy to care for after that. Keeping them well fed (2 times per day is good) will improve your chances of success with a new specimen. In larger tanks typically you do 1 male with a small group of 2-8 females, all females (one will eventually become the male), or a single male. I have been asked before about mixing single specimens of different species before, but honestly I don’t know the answer to that question. I would imagine it to be ok in larger tanks, but cannot guarantee it. A reef tank is a must for Anthias. Do well in high flow SPS tanks.

-Dispar Anthias (3.7”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Fathead (Sunburst) Anthias (5", 30g min, 55g+ ideal) (added by Pili)
-Longfin Anthias (2”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)

Keep in mind this would be 1-2 per tank. Ideally though more than 1 should go in a 55g+ regardless of

Assessors

I really don’t know very much about these guys. Carnivores. If anyone would like to add a summary of this group pm me.

-Yellow Assessor (2”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Blue Assessor (2.5”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)

Basses

I really don’t know very much about these guys. If anyone would like to add a summary of for group please pm me. Carnivores. Known to eat some inverts, mainly shrimp.

-Chalk Bass (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Lantern Bass (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)

Blennies

Blennies are very interesting little fish. They have a personality that is very unique. I have seen all sorts of blennies kept in all sorts of nano tanks. While there should be some consideration of tank size, it is also important to remember these guys are herbivores that graze on algae, and so in many cases a larger tank may be more appropriate for providing the grazing opportunities they need. Should do ok in smaller tanks w/ supplemental algae feedings, but something to be aware of. Most blennies are rock dwellers that live in small cracks and holes in the rock. Ideal tank would include arrangement of rock or purchase of rock with holes or the use of artificial or collected barnacle skeletons. Generally 1 specimen per tank, unless mated pair.

-Bicolor Blenny (4”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Convict Blenny (5.5” [I’ve seen bigger], 20g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Lawnmower Blenny (5”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Midas Blenny (4”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Redspotted Blenny (5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Redlip Blenny (4.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Tailspot Blenny (2.5", 10g min, 10g+ ideal) (added by Steelhealr)
-Yellowtail Fang Blenny (4”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal) (venomous)

Cardinalfish

Cardinalfish are very interesting unique fish. Those with unique colors should be fed high protein diets to help maintain their bright colors. Some of these guys can be mean. In particular I have heard some comment on the Flame Cardinalfish being rather nasty when they reach adult size. One should be careful when placing Cardinalfish with ornamental shrimp as they have been known occasionally to eat them. Generally Cardinalfish should be kept 1 per tank with a minimum tank size of 20g. With a larger tank more usually can coexist. Pajama and Bangai Cardinalfish don’t seem to be as aggressive though and could probably be kept as a pair or triplet in a 30g+ tank.

-Orangestriped Cardinalfish (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Threadfin Cardinalfish (2.5”, 10g min, 20g + ideal)
-Flame Cardinalfish (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Pajama Cardinalfish (3.1”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Bangaii Cardinalfish (3”, 20g min, 20g+ ideal)

Damselfish (Damsels, Chromis, Clownfish)

Damsels are great beginner fish. They are often very hardy and usually very abundant and easy to find. The damsel group also includes chromis and clownfish. Generally Chromis damsels are very hardy, mild mannered fish. Clowns are a very popular group of fish that are generally great for beginners and easy to care for. All other damsel are generally easy to care for, but can be rather aggressive and harassing to other fish. Damselfish can be kept singly (except in my opinion clowns should be kept in pairs), but look awesome and exhibit neat behaviors in groups. In general all damsels are omnivores that will pretty much eat anything. In my opinion it is best to provide them a variety of meaty and algae based foods. Many damsel fish also feature symbiotic relationships with Anemones. Damsels do not require anemones to survive, a common myth, but can exhibit very interesting and entertaining behaviors with them. Anemones ARE NOT for beginners though as they require very specialized care and lighting. All Damsels are unaffected by the sting of an Anemone unlike most fish. Generally the minimum size tank for most damsels is around 10g with some exceptions.

Clownfish
-Clarki Clownfish (5.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (mated pair/groups)
-Maroon Clownfish (**) (6”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (May Eat Shrimp!) (single/mated pair)
-Ocellaris Clownfish (False Percula) (3.5”, 7g min, 10g+ ideal) (mated pair/group)
-Orange Skunk Clownfish (5.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (mated pair/groups)
-Percula Clownfish (True Percula) (3”, 7g min, 10g+ ideal) (mated pair/groups)
-Pink Skunk Clownfish (4”, 20g min, 20g+ ideal) (mated pair/groups)
-Tomato Clownfish (5.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (single/mated pair)

Any Hybrids/Blacks/Onyx should follow same recommendations for Ocellaris/Percula

Chromis
-Green Chromis (3.5”, 5g min, 10g+ Ideal) (single/groups)

Damsels
-Talbot’s Damsel (2.5”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal) (single/groups)
-Three Spot Damsel (5.5”, 10g min, 30g+ ideal) (single/groups)
-Three Stripe Damsel (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal) (single/groups)
-Yellowtail Blue Damsel (2.5”, 5g min, 10g+ideal) (single/groups)

Dartfish (Firefish)

Dartfish are another popular group of fish that generally fair well in the nano environment. Dartfish are known for their unique long skinny bodies and dart-like quick movements when scared. Dartfish are generally carnivores, but usually will eat just about anything. It is never a bad idea to provide some variety and give them some high quality algae flake or frozen supplemented brine shrimp in addition to carnivorous preparations. A 10g tank is probably the minimum size tank any Dartfish should be kept in. Exhibition of interesting and entertaining behaviors can be enhanced when these guys are kept in small groups of 3-10. In many cases these fish are referred to as gobies, although they are truly Dartfish. Keep in mind these guys are known to jump probably more than any other fish and a good lid should be used to prevent jumping.

-Bar Goby (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (single/pairs/groups)
-Blue Gudgeon Goby (5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (single/pairs/groups)
-Firefish Goby (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal) (single/pairs/groups)
-Helfrich’s Firefish Goby (2.5”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal) (single)
-Purple Firefish Goby (3.5”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal) (single)

Dottybacks (Pseudochromis)

I really don’t know a ton about these guys, if someone would like to add info about them, please pm me. Basically these guys are pretty neat little fish, but they can have quite the attitude and be very territorial. Dottybacks exhibit some of the most beautiful shades of pink, magenta, purple, and yellow. Dottybacks are carnivores, but would surely benefit from a little alga in their diet. Generally these guys should be kept 1 per tank, perhaps more in a larger tank of 75g+.

-Bicolor Psuedochromis (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Diadem Pseudochromis (2.5”, 10g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Fridmani (Orchid) Pseudochromis (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Purple Pseudochromis (2.5”, 7g min, 10g+ ideal)


Dragonets

Dragonet properly identifies fish such as the green mandarin, yellow target mandarin, red scooter, and scooter than are often placed in the goby or blenny group. Traditionally and in most cases these fish are totally NOT appropriate for nano tanks. Fish from the dragonet family are carnivores that prefer live food such as copepods. Dragonets can be difficult to feed since they do not aggressively take food from the water current, but rather suck up marco and micro inverts from the rock and substrate. I do not generally recommend keeping of dragonets in nano tanks since in most cases a nano will not be able to provide the micro/macro fauna necessary to keep these guys alive. This can be a tricky fish for even the most skilled aquarist and even those with large tanks. The only reason I list this as a potential nano fish is for those who are more advanced and have the means to properly feed these guys (i.e. very established pod producing refugium, copepod breeder, or frequent buyer of sea pods, or has one that eats frozen). In some areas the industry is changing and this once difficult group of fish to keep is becoming a little easier to take care of with training of dragonets to eat frozen preparations. It should be noted though that just because a dragonet is eating frozen food, does not guarantee its survival. Frozen food should be used to supplement their natural diet of copepods. If you insist on purchasing one and feeding it frozen food, I suggest at least that you feed it several times a day and keep a close eye on it. Often these guys will look great for a few months, and then mysteriously die for no apparent reason (cause of death is usually malnutrition/starvation). These guys should be kept singly or in mated pairs. PLEASE DO NOT BUY THIS FISH UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!

-Scooter Blenny (2.4”, 10g min [with caution, not for beginners], 30g+ Ideal)
-Green Mandarin Goby (3”, 20g min [with caution, not for beginners], 75g+ Ideal)
-Yellow Target Mandarin Goby (3”, 20g min [with caution, not for beginners], 75g+ Ideal)
-Red Scooter Blenny (2.4”, 10g min [with caution, not for beginners], 30g+ Ideal)

Eels

I don’t know much about eels, if someone would like to cover this, please pm me.

-Dwarf Golden Moray Eel (7-10", 10g min, 20g+ Ideal)
-Snowflake Eel (30”, 30g min, 55g+ Ideal)

Frogfish/Anglers

I don’t know much about these guys so if someone would like to add some info, please pm me. Carnivores that need extra meaty diet. (Similar to feeding an eel, lion, scorpion, or toadfish). One per tank.

**If anyone knows what type of anglers are commonly kept in nanos please let me know so I can include them.

-Giant Frogfish (12”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Painted Frogfish (4”, 10g min, 30g+ ideal
-Wartskin Frogfish (4”, 10g min, 30g+ ideal)

Gobies

Gobies are probably one of the best candidates for just about any nano reef. They are extremely well mannered and fairly easy to care for. There are shrimp gobies, those who engage in symbiotic relationships with pistol shrimp, sand sifter gobies, which literally sift sand through their gills, and a large number of gobies that do not fit into these two groups. Generally shrimp gobies and a number of other gobies make great candidates for the nano reef. Sand sifter gobies however are a poor choice for the nano reef as most nanos do not have a large enough sand bed (surface area, not depth) to provide the macro/micro fauna that these guys get most of their nutrition from. In particular, although small twinspot gobies do not belong in nanos. Even people with large tanks have difficulty keeping these guys alive long term. Most gobies are carnivores, but usually they will eat just about anything. A little variety, including some frozen/flake algae, is highly recommended. Gobies are usually pretty small and the goby group features a few select fish that may be appropriate for tanks of 7g and under. In most cases gobies can be kept singly, in pairs, or groups, and seem to get along ok. There of course are a few exceptions and I will note those below. Also I have noted that some of the perching gobies such as the clown gobies have been known to irritate SPS corals that they perch on and in some cases bite at them. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn’t, but worth noting.

Shrimp Gobies
-Blackray Shrimp Goby (2", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Orange Stripe Goby (3.5", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Orangespotted Goby (3.5", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Randall’s Shrimp Goby (3.5", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Wheeler’s Shrimp Goby (3.5", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Yasha Hasha Goby (2", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Yellow Watchman Goby (3", 10g min, 20g+ ideal)

Sand Gobies
-Engineer Goby (See Convict Blenny Above)

Other Gobies
-Catalina Goby [cold water, 60-70 degrees) (2”, 0.5g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Citron Goby (*SPS) (2”, 2.5g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Clown Gobies (Includes Black, Yellow, Green) (*SPS) (1.5”, 0.5g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Eviota Gobies (Includes Neon & Red Stripe) (1”, 0.5g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Green Banded Goby (2", 2.5g min, 10g+ ideal) (added by c'est ma)
-Neon Gobies (Includes Blue & Yellow) (2”, 0.5g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Panda (Clown) Goby (*SPS) (1.5”, 0.5g, 10g+ ideal)
-Rainfordi Goby (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Redhead Goby (2”, 0.5g min, 10g+ ideal)
-Trimma Goby (1”, 0.5g min, 10g+ ideal)

Grammas

Grammas are very interesting little fish. They are almost like a blenny and pseudochromis mixed with just a touch of jawfish. They have quite the personality like a blenny, the brilliant purples and yellows seen in pseudochromis, and occasionally may be seen moving small pieces of rock and what not around to build a home. Additionally when intimidated, they flex open their mighty jaw, similar to the behavior of a jawfish, to warn of invaders of their territory. They can be quite territorial, but overall in my opinion are a pretty cool group of fish. They just don’t like other fish getting in their way. They are carnivores, but again like most fish, would benefit from a little frozen/flake algae supplement from time to time. In a smaller tank grammas should be kept singly, but in larger tanks 55g+ they seem to do ok in groups.

-Blackcap Basslet (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Royal Gramma (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)

Hawkfish

I really don’t know a lot about hawkfish so if anyone wants to add something, please pm me. Hawkfish are rock dwellers that often perch on rocks and wait for prey to pass by and then they swoop down a grab it. Generally peaceful, but there is a significant chance they will eat ornamental shrimp. Occasionally they have been known to harass other smaller or ground-dwelling fish. An interesting specimen for the larger nano tank, these guys should be kept singly, or some can be paired in larger tanks (55g+). Some hawkfish, especially the longnose are known jumpers, so that is something to keep in mind when considering this fish.

-Arc Eye Hawkfish (5.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Falco Hawkfish (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Flame Hawkfish (3.5”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Longnose Hawkfish (5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)

Jawfish

Jawfish are a great addition to the appropriate size nano reef. They exhibit a very entertaining personality similar to a royal gramma and blenny, but even better. One common question asked about jawfish is how deep of a sand bed do they need to survive? Really the answer if you ask me and several others is that it doesn’t really matter. I have seen them thrive in anything 1”+. Often their home will consist of a slight depression in the sand near rock in which they will surround or cover with chunks of rock and coral rubble. If not much rubble is available typically they will just dig a burrow out under a piece or rock and that seems to do fine. I would definitely throw some rubble in though. With the rubble they typically build little tube like entrances to their home, and it can be entertaining to watch them poke their heads out to check out what is going on. Jawfish are mostly carnivores that need a high protein diet. Although I have never witnessed any problems, it should be noted that these guys may eat ornamental shrimp. I would recommend keeping these guys in small groups, but a single specimen should be ok in a smaller tank (10g+).

-Bluespot Jawfish (4", 20g min, 20g+ ideal) (added by fish n' pets)
-Dusky Jawfish (4", 20g min, 20g+ ideal) (added by fish n' pets)
-Pearly (Yellowhead) Jawfish (4”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)

Lionfish (*, ##, ###, V)

Lionfish are pretty cool fish, but they really have no place in the community nano reef tank. As they are super carnivores they eat just about anything small and beefy. That includes your shrimp, and small fish. I am not 100% if these guys are considered coral safe or not, so I will just extend some caution for keeping them with coral. (Update: coral safe according to Raywhisperer). I would suggest keeping lions in a species only tank. Again as they are super carnivores they need a high protein diet, which may include larger frozen foods and sometimes live feeder fish or shrimp. Generally I recommend trying to get them onto a frozen food like krill or silversides. Some suggest training them on frozen food rather than live, may make them less likely to kill smaller fish. I don’t know if this is true or not, but I suggest frozen anyway as live food can be a pain to deal with and get spendy. I also personally don’t like torturing feeder fish, but that’s for another thread. Keep in mind because of their diet, lionfish add quite a bit to the bioload. Extra efforts will need to be taken to keep your tank clean. This may require use of additional live rock, additional/more frequent water changes, and definite use of a protein skimmer (Source: Raywhisperer). The minimum size for most dwarf lions is going to be in the 20g+ range. Some lions can get upwards of 15 inches though, and have no place in a nano tank. Don’t forget that Lionfish are venomous. Their stingers are typically in the top/front region and look like antennae. I am not sure if the dorsal spins are also venom ready, such as in the fox face rabbit fish, but it could be. If you know, let me know. (Update: First few dorsal spikes according to Raywhisperer) Although venomous, lions are generally peaceful and will not try to sting you. Usually when people get stung it is by accident during maintenance or by spooking the fish causing it to jet out of the way and nail you while trying to get away. If you are ever stung by a lionfish, run the area of injury under the warmest water you can stand w/ out burning yourself for a good 10-15 minutes. You may feel a stinging pain in the area of injury that should go away after a while. If the injury starts to swell up, or you feel dizzy, light headed, have trouble breathing, or feel abnormal in anyway besides minor stinging at the injury site, you should head to the emergency room just to be safe. That shouldn’t scare you away from keeping a lionfish , but just something to be aware of and prepared for just in case.

-Fu Manchu Lionfish (4”, 20g min, 30g+ Ideal)
-Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish (6”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)

Pipefish [with caution, not for beginners]

Pipefish have recently become one of my favorite little fishes. I do not own any yet, but would like to pursue setting up a little pipe/seahorse nano and have been doing some research on these guys. I would classify these guys in the same category as seahorses and dragonets in that have special diet requirements. Their natural diet consists of copepods and other micro inverts, but they can be trained on frozen or other live foods. I have seen pipefish in reef tanks before, but like seahorses, pipefish are a low flow fish which can sometimes conflict with what is needed in the reef environment. I’d say as long as you aren’t doing sps, and not going overboard on your flow, and feed them very well, you should be successful. Again I want to emphasize though that pipefish are not for beginners. An ideal tank for pipefish would include sea grass for them to hide and graze in. Some types of pipefish also seem to be hardier than others. In particular I have seen people have pretty good luck with the banded/striped pipefish. It seems often the larger pipefish do not do as well though.


-Banded Pipefish (8”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) [with caution, not for beginners]
-Bluestripe Pipefish (3.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) [with caution, not for beginners]
-Dragon Pipefish (6.5”, 20g min, 20g+ ideal) [with caution, not for beginners]

Puffers

Puffers are another group of fish that I feel pretty flaky about adding to reef or community tanks. Often they are not terribly aggressive, but will snatch up a small-medium invert or small fish with no problem. I would recommend doing a species tank or keeping with other docile, but medium sized fish. If not obvious by now, they are carnivores that need larger food that just your usual brine shrimp mixtures. Typically you feed these guys krill, silversides, or live fish/shrimp. Some of the smaller varieties that would be more appropriate for the nano reef tank should be fine with just a high protein carnivore enhanced frozen shrimp such as marine cuisine. It should also be noted that there is some general risk in keeping puffers in that they do carry toxin and have the ability to wipe out an entire tank if stressed or killed. When stressed you may see them puff up. DO NOT try to make them puff up just for fun unless you want to risk killing it and everything in your tank. As long as you get it out pretty quickly, in the case one dies under your care, you should be ok and not have to worry about the tank being toast. I would suggest a 10-20% water change though after removing the body just to be safe. Generally those appropriate for the nano tank are going to be what they call tobys.

-Bennett’s Toby (4”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Blue Spot Puffer (6”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)
-Valentini (Saddleback) Toby (3.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (As suggested by Bread)
-White Spot Toby (3.5”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)

Seahorses [with caution, not for beginners]

Submited by lelualexa

General Seahorse Info

DO NOT BUY A WILD CAUGHT SEAHORSE IF YOU ARE UNEXPERIENCED!

Even the most experienced keepers have problems with them. Most require live food twice daily and some will never learn to take frozen! They often carry parasites and stuff you really don't want in your tank, so do yourself a favor and buy CAPTIVE BRED. Similar bad things happen in "Tank Raised" Seahorses, which are also sometimes called captive bred, but are usually raised within a net in the ocean or some similar situation. PLEASE buy CAPTIVE BRED, and make sure that they are eating frozen mysis shrimp before you buy them!

Seahorses can be a great beginner fish, provided you do a lot of research and have a suitable tank. This means NO stinging corals and only suitable slow moving tankmates that won't compete for food with the seahorses. No anemones or urchins for this sort of tank.

The species listed below are the most common seahorses available.

Seahorses By Tank Size

2 - 10 Gallons:
H. Zostrae - Dwarf Seahorse - 1 pair/gallon
(Do not keep in a tank larger than 10 Gallons - these seahorses are the only seahorses that require LIVE enriched brine shrimp every day!)

10 Gallons (1 pair per 2g-ish)
H. Breviceps (Coldwater)
H. Tuberculatus [Coldwater]

The following may be pushing it at 1 pair in a 10gallon
H. Barbouri
H. Capensis
H. Comes
H. Coronatus
H. Fuscus
H. Histrix
H. Jayakari
H. Kuda
H. Whitei (coldwater)

20 Gallons (1 - 2 pairs)
H. Barbouri
H. Capensis
H. Comes
H. Coronatus
H. Fuscus
H. Histrix
H. Jayakari
H. Kuda
H. Whitei [coldwater]

Keep several pairs of the following in a tank this size and larger. They can be kept in large tanks, due to the fact that they eat frozen foods. Dwarf Seahorses should not be kept in tanks larger than 10g because of the distribution of live brine shrimp.
H. Breviceps [coldwater]
H. Tuberculatus [coldwater]

30g+ (1-2 pairs)
H. Abdominalis [coldwater]
H. Erectus
H. Ingens
H. Kelloggi
H. Reidi
H. Subelongatus
(3-4 pairs)
H. Barbouri
H. Capensis
H. Comes
H. Coronatus
H. Fuscus
H. Histrix
H. Jayakari
H. Kuda
H. Whitei [coldwater]
(Several pairs)
H. Breviceps [coldwater]
H. Tuberculatus [coldwater]

Hardy species recommended for beginners

Dwarfs
H. Zostrae (Very hardy if you're prepared to hatch BS every day)

Small
H. Breviceps [coldwater]
H. Tuberculatus [coldwater]

Medium
H. Barbouri
H. Fuscus
H. Kuda
H. Whitei [coldwater]

Large
H. Abdominalis [coldwater]
H. Erectus
H. Kelloggi
H. Reidi

H. Erectus are considered the hardiest seahorse, as well as one of the most attractive, and are recommended for the beginner.

Sources:
-www.syngnathid.org
-www.seahorse.org
-www.seahorse.com

Tangs [No, Bad Newbie]

Tangs should not be kept in any tank less than 55g. I simply mention tangs here since it seems to be a common fad amongst fish stores to sell people tangs with out asking the tank size, or for newbies to buy tangs for their nano with out doing proper research. NO BAD! Putting a tang in a nano reef is like me locking you in your laundry room (4’ x 4’) and expecting you to be happy. You may be able to survive on drier lint for a while, but eventually you will die. Don’t do it, and we won’t have any problems. Do it, and be prepared to be humiliated.

Wrasses

Our discussion on wrasses will focus more around the reef safe wrasses that stay under 5". While tempting with some very exciting coloration, I usually avoid larger wrasses altogether in the community tank as they can be nasty, destructive, and eat some inverts. The smaller reef safe wrasses are very interesting and can add some great color and behavior to the nano reef tank. The smaller reef safe wrasses are carnivores that need high protein meaty foods. They will eat just about anything, and I would suggest the addition of some type of frozen/flake algae to their diet. Also as carnivores, several of these guys are known to feed on flatworms and bristle worms. Generally you should keep 1 wrasse per tank unless a larger tank (55g+). While not as jumpy as dartfish, there is still a jumping risk worth noting. Generally there does not seem to be a problem, but I have added a small invert risk warning to this group as on occasion some larger specimens have been seen eating smaller ornamental shrimp. To avoid problems here, I usually recommend getting a shrimp that is significantly larger than the fish. For example, get a small 1" sixline wrasse and a 3"+ (including antennae) cleaner shrimp. Can't guarantee anything, but generally that works. Also in the wrasse group I will include hogfish as they are somewhat similar in behavior and diet. I’d have to say the sixline wrasse is one of my all time favorite fish. PLEASE AVIOD bringing home cleaner wrasses. Leave them in the ocean. Their diet pretty much relies on the mucus coating of fish and parasites and there is really no way they can survive (since there are not enough fish) in the typical nano reef. These guys are better left to do their job in the ocean.

Wrasses
-Carpenter Flasher Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Filamented Flasher Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Fourline Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal) (As suggested by Travis)
-Longfin Fairy Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Redfin Fairy Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Possum Wrasse (3”, 10g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Sixline Wrasse (3”, 10g min, 20g+ ideal)
-Tricolor (Lubbock’s) Fairy Wrasse (3”, 20g min, 30g+ ideal)
-Yellow Choris (Canary) Wrasse (4.5”, 30g min, 55g+ ideal)

Any Flasher or Fairy wrasse not listed typically will follow most flasher or fairies size and tank requirements listed above.

Hogfish
-Twinspot Hogfish (4”, 20g min, 20g+ ideal)

VII. Bibliography & Acknowledgements

General
-Marine Fishes by Scott Michael

Seahorses
-lelualexa

Special Thanks To The Following Contributors
-Bread, c'est ma, fish n' pets, lakshwadeep, Pili, Raywhisperer, Steelhealr, Travis

Current Permissions for Use
-Nano-Reef.com
-Reeftuners.com
-Nanotank.com

Copyright lgreen 2005-2007

lol...right on time

WAYBACKMACHINE FTW

stop bein a dick lgreen

here, read my signature a few more times

Dang! Beat me to it. I found it at Google Cache, complete with the color codes:

http://74.125.95.104/search?q=cache:dPBhuX...orums/index.php

Igreen, if you're reading this, think about all of the effort other folks put into this. Yes, I know and appreciate that you started it and kept it going, but it would not have been what it was without all of the other input. Is it really fair to the others to remove it because you're unhappy with something? The folks that use this information are not the people you have a beef with.

-hank

LGreen.. please reinstate this for all of us that have appreciated your work since you first started this guide. Your guide is absoultely invaluable.. if you've a problem with NR then there are many sites that would be very glad to host this for you, and I'd love to have this hosted on a UK reefing forum as well. I've been directing people to this list for years. But it would be nice to see it back in its original spot.

I propose that a new thread is started and stickied - I know lgreen started it but many people contributed to it and use it. I still refer to it.

Since we have all the info can't we just start a new one?

I don't know what happened... don't care to know really but I think it sucks that the info wouldn't be available.

A mod could clean this thread up pretty easy, that way all links would be the same, I am sure this one was passed along on MANY threads and even off N-R itself.

Lgreen, clean your rag and get over it.

Thank you amber and hank for posting the information again. lgreen's actions on his stickied threads are beyond spiteful.

I reinstated the first post for perpetuity.


Much obliged, Amber.

just cause i can

lol

silly lgreen...

I'm new around here and although I had researched a lot of these fish families individually, it's great to see them all listed here and easy to reference! Truly appreciate your work, thank you very much for taking your time to write this.

Restored to it's original form!