Thank you!
Full Version: Overflow Diagrams
Ok, that's good news. Thank you!
Thank you!
Quick question.
If you add an elbow (90deg connection) to the inside of the durso design will it still work well? I wanted to add an elbow so that I could adjust my water level on a drilled tank.
Or would you suggest to not add the elbow?
If you add an elbow (90deg connection) to the inside of the durso design will it still work well? I wanted to add an elbow so that I could adjust my water level on a drilled tank.
Or would you suggest to not add the elbow?
yeah, it should still work.
TIGAH sup mang??
What I did on my 55 was this,
Basically the external durso with strainer, however not a tee but a 90* elbow, my problem is after drilling little holes in the elbow, I am not getting enough flow and my pump is too powerful, do you think adding a tee on the drain, then a ball valve on my return will help?
this is rhetorical lol
David
What I did on my 55 was this,
Basically the external durso with strainer, however not a tee but a 90* elbow, my problem is after drilling little holes in the elbow, I am not getting enough flow and my pump is too powerful, do you think adding a tee on the drain, then a ball valve on my return will help?
this is rhetorical lol
David
haha. sup, dude. wow, u just have an elbow w/ a hole? how does water not spill out from the hole? Maybe I'm not picturing the overflow correctly in my head.
rhetorical question...but I think the best solution would be to add a T to the return line w/ a ball valve to redirect some of the flow back into the sump to reduce the flow going thru the overflow.
rhetorical question...but I think the best solution would be to add a T to the return line w/ a ball valve to redirect some of the flow back into the sump to reduce the flow going thru the overflow.
Dood....just trying my hands at decent sized tank finally a 55gg....hehe, yea my drain is a durso sorta, just a strainer and 90* elbow with holes ontop, my return line I think needs a valve to back off my too powerful pump Quiet One HH4400.
No water spillage as of yet as the holes are on top, but definately better then jaming a piece of AT down the strainer lol...
take care
David
No water spillage as of yet as the holes are on top, but definately better then jaming a piece of AT down the strainer lol...
take care
David
Hi all,
New to this site, and although I dont keep marine (nano or otherwise), I am just setting up a 180 gal discus tank with sump. Someone linked me to this very handy thread about standpipes
here's my query:
I found this article on an impropvement to the Durso standpipe:
http://www.fishfurfeather.com/forum/module...e=article&sid=5
Any comments on this modification? (i havent tried it myself)
Do you think it would also be viable with a stockman standpipe (which is what i think i will be using)
Any comments would be appreciated
TIA,
KB
New to this site, and although I dont keep marine (nano or otherwise), I am just setting up a 180 gal discus tank with sump. Someone linked me to this very handy thread about standpipes
here's my query:
I found this article on an impropvement to the Durso standpipe:
http://www.fishfurfeather.com/forum/module...e=article&sid=5
Any comments on this modification? (i havent tried it myself)
Do you think it would also be viable with a stockman standpipe (which is what i think i will be using)
Any comments would be appreciated
TIA,
KB
Great post! Where can I buy the materials, like the bulkhead fittings? Can I find them at Home Depot?
Also, I was thinking of adding a durso standpipe into the second part of the my M-Tank 20gallon. See picture. What do you guys think?
Click to view attachment
Also, I was thinking of adding a durso standpipe into the second part of the my M-Tank 20gallon. See picture. What do you guys think?
Click to view attachment
How can you make a standpipe self-priming. Like if it sucks downs too much water, and then the pump pushes it back up, what's to stop the tank from overflowing?
Bump
So long as the standpipe and drain plumbing can handle the flow rate of the return, then it won't overflow. It doesn't need priming, it's just a pipe, it's not a siphon. There's a hole drilled in the cap at the top to prevent it from becoming a siphon and sucking in air.
The situation you describe can't happen. The standpipe can't drain water below the level of the intake. There is no "too low" that the standpipe can drain to (so long as the sump has sufficient volume).
The situation you describe can't happen. The standpipe can't drain water below the level of the intake. There is no "too low" that the standpipe can drain to (so long as the sump has sufficient volume).
External PVC overflow siphon (no drilling required)
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...74&#entry643674
Just to add this to the overflow thread as an option for those who don't want to drill there tanks (And so I don't need to search everywhere to find it when I need to link it for a thread)
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...74&#entry643674
Just to add this to the overflow thread as an option for those who don't want to drill there tanks (And so I don't need to search everywhere to find it when I need to link it for a thread)
i made something similar for the 6 gallon nano i am setting up. hope it does well. 
Great work Tigah, very helpful diagrams too.
I would like to add though to anyone who is starting out, that using a stockman or durso design should only be done if you don't have a better alternative. If you are building a tank and are able to have two drain bulkheads, then the simplest and quietest way of getting water to your sump is the "Herbie method" (search on RC).
Baisically you don't use a standpipe at all on your drain - just a naked bulkhead. The diference is that you put a ball valve on the drain pipe to the sump and close the valve until the water is draining at the same rate as the pump is putting out. By opening and closing the valve a little bit you can adjust how high the water level is in your overflow box. For example. if the surface of the water is 7" above the bulkhead, there is no possible way that any air can go down the bulkhead and this equals zero noise. It also means no vacumes or venturies to mess with. Another advantage is that, because no air is getting into the sump, it is just as quiet as your overflow and will not boil or 'hot tub'. There is no noise or bubbles.
The second bulkhead is necessary to serve as an emergency drain if the primary ever got plugged. Put a standpipe on it and have the top of it up by the top of your tank. If the primary ever got plugged and the water level started to rise, it would just drain safely through this one. I had my setup for over a year and never had to adjust the ball valve and never had a blockage, but I still wouldn't risk running it without a back up drain.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense. I was fortunate enough to learn it early on in my reefing career and it might be the most useful piece of knowledge I have come across.
- Chad
I would like to add though to anyone who is starting out, that using a stockman or durso design should only be done if you don't have a better alternative. If you are building a tank and are able to have two drain bulkheads, then the simplest and quietest way of getting water to your sump is the "Herbie method" (search on RC).
Baisically you don't use a standpipe at all on your drain - just a naked bulkhead. The diference is that you put a ball valve on the drain pipe to the sump and close the valve until the water is draining at the same rate as the pump is putting out. By opening and closing the valve a little bit you can adjust how high the water level is in your overflow box. For example. if the surface of the water is 7" above the bulkhead, there is no possible way that any air can go down the bulkhead and this equals zero noise. It also means no vacumes or venturies to mess with. Another advantage is that, because no air is getting into the sump, it is just as quiet as your overflow and will not boil or 'hot tub'. There is no noise or bubbles.
The second bulkhead is necessary to serve as an emergency drain if the primary ever got plugged. Put a standpipe on it and have the top of it up by the top of your tank. If the primary ever got plugged and the water level started to rise, it would just drain safely through this one. I had my setup for over a year and never had to adjust the ball valve and never had a blockage, but I still wouldn't risk running it without a back up drain.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense. I was fortunate enough to learn it early on in my reefing career and it might be the most useful piece of knowledge I have come across.
- Chad
OH NO! The images of this awesome DIY are gone. Can we put them back up? I know they can be found elsewhere but the illustrations where to educational. I vote that this go to the information section and not the forums.
They're back! Must of been something with the computer in my office?
They're back! Must of been something with the computer in my office?
What would you recomend for a proclear 75 overflow NOTHING ######IN WORKS!~...
Best Thread Evar! Here's an idea.. maybe you guys can chime in.
A durso with no breather hole (full siphon) and then a ball valve on the exit pipe like the herbie method. Would that be "safe" enough to have just a single overlow drain?
A durso with no breather hole (full siphon) and then a ball valve on the exit pipe like the herbie method. Would that be "safe" enough to have just a single overlow drain?
why not leave the standpipe open at the top with out the hole turn down thing? Noise muffling?
I've learned that keeping the standpipe open on the top can create an ugly gurgling noise.
Anyways..since i read this i actually tried it and it's pretty much impossible. My thought was to create a super high flow durso with just the smallest little crack of an airhole where it basically creates a siphon, then tune down the return until it reached equilibrium.
Couldnt get enough control with the ball valve to maintain any kind of constant level.
Anyways..since i read this i actually tried it and it's pretty much impossible. My thought was to create a super high flow durso with just the smallest little crack of an airhole where it basically creates a siphon, then tune down the return until it reached equilibrium.
Couldnt get enough control with the ball valve to maintain any kind of constant level.
QUOTE(stan @ Oct 25 2006, 03:10 PM) 
I've learned that keeping the standpipe open on the top can create an ugly gurgling noise.
Anyways..since i read this i actually tried it and it's pretty much impossible. My thought was to create a super high flow durso with just the smallest little crack of an airhole where it basically creates a siphon, then tune down the return until it reached equilibrium.
Couldnt get enough control with the ball valve to maintain any kind of constant level.
Anyways..since i read this i actually tried it and it's pretty much impossible. My thought was to create a super high flow durso with just the smallest little crack of an airhole where it basically creates a siphon, then tune down the return until it reached equilibrium.
Couldnt get enough control with the ball valve to maintain any kind of constant level.
lol after i posted that i though about the noise in my LFS and said oh yeah lol!!! i kind of like the stock man idea unless you have a huge overflow box lol!!
The Herbie method doesn't require a standpipe because no air whatsoever goes down the drain. A standpipe is the source of any gurgling (and hot-tubbing in the sump), so there's no reason why you would want one if you didn't have to. If you are interested in high-flow, the Herbie method will drain water way faster than a stockman will (for equal sized bulkheads). Not only will it have the same syphon effect, but it will also have the weight of 7" of water (or whatever level you set) sitting on top of the naked bulkhead - this added pressure will give you a higher flow rate than you would get with a standpipe, which only takes water from the top of the standpipe.
- Chad
- Chad
QUOTE(Fish @ Oct 29 2006, 07:48 PM)
The Herbie method doesn't require a standpipe because no air whatsoever goes down the drain. A standpipe is the source of any gurgling (and hot-tubbing in the sump), so there's no reason why you would want one if you didn't have to. If you are interested in high-flow, the Herbie method will drain water way faster than a stockman will (for equal sized bulkheads). Not only will it have the same syphon effect, but it will also have the weight of 7" of water (or whatever level you set) sitting on top of the naked bulkhead - this added pressure will give you a higher flow rate than you would get with a standpipe, which only takes water from the top of the standpipe.
- Chad
- Chad
what the heck is the herbie method? is that just the bulkhead stuck throught the back of the glass? at a lower level in the water column?
syphon is a bad thing dude, it means that if you pump stops you will most definitely have a gang of water on your floor.
quite frankly i'd rather have the gurgling and the hot tubbing for life then the one time a power outages happens completely ruining the carpeting and furniture in my place. uhmm but thats just me!!
I explained the Herbie method a little earlier, and you can search for it on RC.
There is absolutley no risk of gettting your carpet wet or whatever you were talking about.
The risk of draining a tank in a poweroutage is only a risk for those slap on overflows that suck water up and over the side of the tank. With an overflow the only water that comes over the side of the overflow is that water that is pumped into the tank by the return pump. That means that if the power goes out, there is no water coming over the overflow, but even if it did, it would just go down the drain like normal.... the carpet is never involved. It might have been confusing because I said the word 'syphon'. I was not saying this method operates via syphon, I was just referring to Stan's post. The water draining to your sump can still create a syphon in the line, pulling down water (and air if it's a durso) behind it. I think that's what Stan wea referring to.
I think that the only reason why a person would ever put up with gurgling or hot tubbing, is if they assumed that just because everyone talks about dursos and stockmans, they are the way to go.
Edit: Here is the original post:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=344892
Its 27 pages long but the first post pretty well explains it.
And here is a piture he took of it:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.p...&thecat=500
You can see how no air is going down the pipe in the forground because the water level is above the intake. The pipe in the background is just the backup and is never used unless the main one got blocked (it's never happened to me). When I ran this, I just pulled the main pipe out so it was a naked bulkhead - the water level would stay the same. HTH.
- Chad
There is absolutley no risk of gettting your carpet wet or whatever you were talking about.
The risk of draining a tank in a poweroutage is only a risk for those slap on overflows that suck water up and over the side of the tank. With an overflow the only water that comes over the side of the overflow is that water that is pumped into the tank by the return pump. That means that if the power goes out, there is no water coming over the overflow, but even if it did, it would just go down the drain like normal.... the carpet is never involved. It might have been confusing because I said the word 'syphon'. I was not saying this method operates via syphon, I was just referring to Stan's post. The water draining to your sump can still create a syphon in the line, pulling down water (and air if it's a durso) behind it. I think that's what Stan wea referring to.
I think that the only reason why a person would ever put up with gurgling or hot tubbing, is if they assumed that just because everyone talks about dursos and stockmans, they are the way to go.
Edit: Here is the original post:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=344892
Its 27 pages long but the first post pretty well explains it.
And here is a piture he took of it:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.p...&thecat=500
You can see how no air is going down the pipe in the forground because the water level is above the intake. The pipe in the background is just the backup and is never used unless the main one got blocked (it's never happened to me). When I ran this, I just pulled the main pipe out so it was a naked bulkhead - the water level would stay the same. HTH.
- Chad
QUOTE(Fish @ Oct 30 2006, 05:58 AM)
I explained the Herbie method a little earlier, and you can search for it on RC.
There is absolutley no risk of gettting your carpet wet or whatever you were talking about.
The risk of draining a tank in a poweroutage is only a risk for those slap on overflows that suck water up and over the side of the tank. With an overflow the only water that comes over the side of the overflow is that water that is pumped into the tank by the return pump. That means that if the power goes out, there is no water coming over the overflow, but even if it did, it would just go down the drain like normal.... the carpet is never involved. It might have been confusing because I said the word 'syphon'. I was not saying this method operates via syphon, I was just referring to Stan's post. The water draining to your sump can still create a syphon in the line, pulling down water (and air if it's a durso) behind it. I think that's what Stan wea referring to.
I think that the only reason why a person would ever put up with gurgling or hot tubbing, is if they assumed that just because everyone talks about dursos and stockmans, they are the way to go.
Edit: Here is the original post:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=344892
Its 27 pages long but the first post pretty well explains it.
And here is a piture he took of it:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.p...&thecat=500
You can see how no air is going down the pipe in the forground because the water level is above the intake. The pipe in the background is just the backup and is never used unless the main one got blocked (it's never happened to me). When I ran this, I just pulled the main pipe out so it was a naked bulkhead - the water level would stay the same. HTH.
- Chad
There is absolutley no risk of gettting your carpet wet or whatever you were talking about.
The risk of draining a tank in a poweroutage is only a risk for those slap on overflows that suck water up and over the side of the tank. With an overflow the only water that comes over the side of the overflow is that water that is pumped into the tank by the return pump. That means that if the power goes out, there is no water coming over the overflow, but even if it did, it would just go down the drain like normal.... the carpet is never involved. It might have been confusing because I said the word 'syphon'. I was not saying this method operates via syphon, I was just referring to Stan's post. The water draining to your sump can still create a syphon in the line, pulling down water (and air if it's a durso) behind it. I think that's what Stan wea referring to.
I think that the only reason why a person would ever put up with gurgling or hot tubbing, is if they assumed that just because everyone talks about dursos and stockmans, they are the way to go.
Edit: Here is the original post:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=344892
Its 27 pages long but the first post pretty well explains it.
And here is a piture he took of it:
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.p...&thecat=500
You can see how no air is going down the pipe in the forground because the water level is above the intake. The pipe in the background is just the backup and is never used unless the main one got blocked (it's never happened to me). When I ran this, I just pulled the main pipe out so it was a naked bulkhead - the water level would stay the same. HTH.
- Chad
it doesn't sound like a bad idea!! but you;d have to leave some extra space availble in your sump in the event ofan outage because of the water above the pipe will flow into it.
i didn't see any pics. well the one you showed but in the thread i didn't!! would the vavle not have to be below water level? because the water will still crash into the sump making noise if it's not. and couldn't the hot tubbing be cut out by simply putting a nipple on out end of the stanpipe plumbing that would tank the water below water level on the sump? like into the fliter sock? if you run a wet dry lol you still gonna have noise!! just a few things i thought i'd ask!!
You're right, depending on the capacity of your overflow box, it could make a big difference to the level of your sump when the pump is shut off. With my 20gal sump it only changed the water level by an inch. If it was going to be more of a change than that, I would just mark a max level on the side of the sump so you didn't fill it up any higher than what it could handle when the power went off.
You brought up a good point about the placement of the valve but with my system, the valve was up near the top and I still didn't get any noise from water in the sump - it was totally silent. I really think that the noise isn't from the water but from the air. With my setup, I closed the ball valve a little more so that the water level in my overflow was only a couple inches below the ledge. The only noise I could hear is the slight 'tinkle' of water going over the ledge. If I put my ear against the drain pipe I could hear a faint rushing - the sound of friction between water and pvc... totally inaudible unless you put your ear right against the pipe.
My sump was just as quiet; all I could hear was the sound of the water going over the first baffle. Another benefit is that the only bubbles I had in the sump were the ones from my protein skimmer.
This is just my experience. I have tried both the stockman and durso and even ordered a professionally built durso online... I can state 100% that this is the quietest and safest way to get water to the sump. Try it and you will see.
I'm just trying to help out some fellow reefers - I wish someone would have shared it with me a lot sooner!
- Chad
You brought up a good point about the placement of the valve but with my system, the valve was up near the top and I still didn't get any noise from water in the sump - it was totally silent. I really think that the noise isn't from the water but from the air. With my setup, I closed the ball valve a little more so that the water level in my overflow was only a couple inches below the ledge. The only noise I could hear is the slight 'tinkle' of water going over the ledge. If I put my ear against the drain pipe I could hear a faint rushing - the sound of friction between water and pvc... totally inaudible unless you put your ear right against the pipe.
My sump was just as quiet; all I could hear was the sound of the water going over the first baffle. Another benefit is that the only bubbles I had in the sump were the ones from my protein skimmer.
This is just my experience. I have tried both the stockman and durso and even ordered a professionally built durso online... I can state 100% that this is the quietest and safest way to get water to the sump. Try it and you will see.
I'm just trying to help out some fellow reefers - I wish someone would have shared it with me a lot sooner!
- Chad
I bet i could get this thing working, but i'm weary of trying it with just a single overflow and no backup drain.
Then again, i'm thinking this method would be no less dangerous than a single durso or stockman..
Agree?
Then again, i'm thinking this method would be no less dangerous than a single durso or stockman..
Agree?
San,
Really, what makes this approach so safe is the backup bulkhead - to do it properly, you need two bulkheads.
Unofficially though, I can tell you that in the two years that I ran mine, not once did the backup drain get used. The main line never got blocked, despite the fact that I was not using any sort of strainer but just a naked bulkhead.
A 1" single durso will be safer than a single 1" herbie (not really a 'herbie' then) because the durso has the full 1" to deal with when it comes to blockages. The herbie will be less than 1" because you have closed down the ball valve to achieve silence.
If you still want to give it a shot, I would recommend using that strainer pipe like in the photo, from the bottom of the overlow box to the top. That way, no snail, anemone, or macro algae would be enough to block your drain. Infact, it would be easier to clog the 1" opening of a conventional standpipe than it would be to clog 8 inches of strainer pipe... so I guess it might be safer...?
- Chad
Really, what makes this approach so safe is the backup bulkhead - to do it properly, you need two bulkheads.
Unofficially though, I can tell you that in the two years that I ran mine, not once did the backup drain get used. The main line never got blocked, despite the fact that I was not using any sort of strainer but just a naked bulkhead.
A 1" single durso will be safer than a single 1" herbie (not really a 'herbie' then) because the durso has the full 1" to deal with when it comes to blockages. The herbie will be less than 1" because you have closed down the ball valve to achieve silence.
If you still want to give it a shot, I would recommend using that strainer pipe like in the photo, from the bottom of the overlow box to the top. That way, no snail, anemone, or macro algae would be enough to block your drain. Infact, it would be easier to clog the 1" opening of a conventional standpipe than it would be to clog 8 inches of strainer pipe... so I guess it might be safer...?
- Chad
QUOTE(Fish @ Oct 30 2006, 10:30 AM)
You're right, depending on the capacity of your overflow box, it could make a big difference to the level of your sump when the pump is shut off. With my 20gal sump it only changed the water level by an inch. If it was going to be more of a change than that, I would just mark a max level on the side of the sump so you didn't fill it up any higher than what it could handle when the power went off.
You brought up a good point about the placement of the valve but with my system, the valve was up near the top and I still didn't get any noise from water in the sump - it was totally silent. I really think that the noise isn't from the water but from the air. With my setup, I closed the ball valve a little more so that the water level in my overflow was only a couple inches below the ledge. The only noise I could hear is the slight 'tinkle' of water going over the ledge. If I put my ear against the drain pipe I could hear a faint rushing - the sound of friction between water and pvc... totally inaudible unless you put your ear right against the pipe.
My sump was just as quiet; all I could hear was the sound of the water going over the first baffle. Another benefit is that the only bubbles I had in the sump were the ones from my protein skimmer.
This is just my experience. I have tried both the stockman and durso and even ordered a professionally built durso online... I can state 100% that this is the quietest and safest way to get water to the sump. Try it and you will see.
I'm just trying to help out some fellow reefers - I wish someone would have shared it with me a lot sooner!
- Chad
You brought up a good point about the placement of the valve but with my system, the valve was up near the top and I still didn't get any noise from water in the sump - it was totally silent. I really think that the noise isn't from the water but from the air. With my setup, I closed the ball valve a little more so that the water level in my overflow was only a couple inches below the ledge. The only noise I could hear is the slight 'tinkle' of water going over the ledge. If I put my ear against the drain pipe I could hear a faint rushing - the sound of friction between water and pvc... totally inaudible unless you put your ear right against the pipe.
My sump was just as quiet; all I could hear was the sound of the water going over the first baffle. Another benefit is that the only bubbles I had in the sump were the ones from my protein skimmer.
This is just my experience. I have tried both the stockman and durso and even ordered a professionally built durso online... I can state 100% that this is the quietest and safest way to get water to the sump. Try it and you will see.
I'm just trying to help out some fellow reefers - I wish someone would have shared it with me a lot sooner!
- Chad
sweet then i do understand it pretty well. i well try it sometime. but on my one tanks its gonna have to be ghetto style lol. i need a simple overflow type. its for my turtle tank and constructing an over flow box is pretty much out of the question. but most definitely will give it a try in the future. thanx man for sure. didn;t mean to hurt any feeling but i figured it would help me and others who might read this!!
Upon further reading.. for those of us with only a single drain. This could prove useful. You place the emergency drain after the exit. Depending on how clean you set this up, it could work.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/42...ietoverflow.gif
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/586/42...ietoverflow.gif
Im currently working on a 29 gallon. And i have an interal overflow but it is loud because i just have the siphon. I want to do a external durso. Are you guys saying that i do not even need an overflow and i can remove it and put a standpipe on the back? Or do i need it and can add a stand pipe? My hole is drilled pretty low.
Here is a pic of the back of my 29 please help i cant stand the noise at night....
Here is a pic of the back of my 29 please help i cant stand the noise at night....
overflow is definitely a good idea. if your worried about the noise of the overflow you can put an elbow on the bulk head and run a pipe up a little farther and put an internal dorso and that will help with the over flow noise but you might still have noise in the pipe or tube running to the sump!!
tigahboy, what bulkhead size do you recommend for a 20Gal Tall (10gal sump)? I plan to do the external durso pipe mod to my AGA tank. Also, from your experience, do they have the sucking noise? it seems like it would from the design.
thanks.
thanks.
tigah, you mentioned early in a post that you use an external durso for one of your tanks. help me remember but you said it also surface skims with the valve cover? is it very effective? how far below do you think i would have to drill the hole to be sufficient to get 600gph with 1" bulk head? i think ive read 2-3" right?
just want to make sure before i start drilling.
also has anyone tried externally housing a mag 5 as a return on a 10gal sump? do you have pictures?
just want to make sure before i start drilling.
also has anyone tried externally housing a mag 5 as a return on a 10gal sump? do you have pictures?
Tigah no longer posts.
whats the herbie method?
basically it uses water pressure to push the water down to the sump will draw up a diagram in sketch up right now!!
QUOTE(mybuickskill6979 @ Feb 16 2007, 10:51 AM)
basically it uses water pressure to push the water down to the sump will draw up a diagram in sketch up right now!!
here it is.
any questions?
oh, ok so its a full blown siphon with a ball valve regulat9ing the flow.
seems like it could be a pain to get the water level right and maintaining it there.
nice diagram.
seems like it could be a pain to get the water level right and maintaining it there.
nice diagram.
thanks lol!! yeah i recon it could be a pain. but once you get it there it stays pretty normal!!
for the external durso overflow, im going to do 2 1" bulkheads, any idea on how much flow i will get? also should i use 1 1/4 pipe or 1" pipe fine? b/c i know w/ regular dursos you jump up a size to 1 1/4.
help much appriciated
~snazzy
help much appriciated
~snazzy
ill be using an external dorso...havnt gotten into the details of bulkhead size yet etc, but the smaller the hole the lower rthe h2o level...im assuming thats for the sump level, but i want to be 100% certain.....and not a lower level for the water intake in the bulkhead
i feel its a noob question but im blaming the booze for it right now
i feel its a noob question but im blaming the booze for it right now
How far below the water line does an external durso need to be if you run it Tigah style with just the screen attached to the bulkhead?
Thanks,
J64
Thanks,
J64
bump to the top for an awesome and educational thread
I was wondering if it is possible to drill holes into the overflow box and add on a few strainers. Am I right in thinking that this would mean most of the water in the tank would get into the sump where as with a standard overflow only the top of the tank goes into the sump? Could adding a few strainers to the overflow box help more water get to the sump and filtration or will this stop the oveflow working????
Thanks in advance for any help
Thanks in advance for any help
Can i use a stockman or reverse stockman (hofer gurgle buster) without an overflow? ie, bulk on tank bottom, standpipe, stockman/HGB, the result is the height of the standpipe would set the water level.
BTW, the Herbie method uses two drains, one primary and a second higher up unregulated as an emergency back-up measure. If the main slows down, the backup picks up the extra. And, because it is not regulated, it makes a lot of noise so you know something is up.
I just set a tank up this way and tuning was surprisingly easy to do.
I just set a tank up this way and tuning was surprisingly easy to do.
im looking forward to trying the herbie method on my 30g build. it seems like a pretty quiet and reliable way to go.
QUOTE(siwelk @ Jan 15 2008, 10:41 PM)
im looking forward to trying the herbie method on my 30g build. it seems like a pretty quiet and reliable way to go.
Yes, takes up less room too. You just need two bulkheads for drains though. I am going to change my higher drain standpipe to a smaller screen so I have a larger "margin for error" between the two heights. Should make tuning even easier.
QUOTE(jpndave @ Jan 16 2008, 12:46 AM)
Yes, takes up less room too. You just need two bulkheads for drains though. I am going to change my higher drain standpipe to a smaller screen so I have a larger "margin for error" between the two heights. Should make tuning even easier.
are you using a gate valve on the drain to the sump or a ball valve?
QUOTE(siwelk @ Jan 15 2008, 10:53 PM)
are you using a gate valve on the drain to the sump or a ball valve?
Plastic ball valve on 1" pipe. I have an Eheim 1260 as a return pump. It is choked maybe 1/3 of the way.
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