CAUTION This warning is a retroedit placed on 06/19/05. Numerous Nano Cubes appear to be suffering cracks, some resulting in catastrophic failure with loss of livestock and destruction of personal property. Proceed with this thread at your own risk with regards to the Nano Cube. However, the majority of the post can be applied to setting up a regular nano reef. I post this sadly after putting so much work into it to help others. SH

Retoedit 12/08/05 New seamless tanks are out now. AquaPod which looks very promising. JBJ redesigned the 24G NanoCube with thicker glass. If you buy a JBJ 24G NC, make sure you buy the 2006 model. SH


Hi... I decided to post this after a note from Parker313 at TFF and trekbear here. It was her tank and trekbears help that inspired me to try out a nano-reef and that eventually emptied my bank account . I think, most FW converters start their initial investigation into SW here. I geared it towards people like myself..curious to start a nano or SW tank; ;some experience with FW;some technical abilities but certainly a newbie in this department.

Changing over from FW to SW was a daunting task for me and getting basic questions answered by posts was difficult. Seemed that it was harder 'over here' initially but after I found the search button, it was easier. Despite that, this site is great and I found a guru and I'm ready to get my feet wet (sorry). So, for those who are interested in a different system or are just plain interested, here goes the pathway using a Nano Cube 24G by a newbie on the way. Now for the fine print.

I spent a month reading and lurking in the Nano forums. This is how I've chosen to do my setup. Nano Cubes, like medicine, are an art. So....don't take any of my steps for gospel. I'm new to this. I may be wrong. Do your own research. I will mention brand names to help as a start. Pick your own brands. Read. I will post my fumbles, foibles, etc. Although I'm not Donald Trump, I decided not to cut corners in certain areas, eg, a water filter. There is a pretty consistent theory that SW tanks are not cheap and a little investment and time in the beginning may pay dividends in the long run with respect to not losing livestock. So...feel free to post and add/critique. Go easy, I'm only trying to help. Here is some recommended reading:

1) The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking Guide
by Michael S. Paletta http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846
2) http://www.nano-reef.com
3)Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History
by Eric H. Borneman http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=glance&s=
books://http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...ce&s=
books
4)The Simple Guide To Mini-reef Aquariums. Just released. I'm reading it now and it looks GREAT!!!!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=books&n=507846

The Nano Cube (for those just starting out)

The Nano Cube is sold by JBJ. It comes in several sizes, 6G, 12G and 24G. I chose the 24G DX with Moonlight LEDs thinking that slightly more volume would 'buffer' any insults. The actual volume once filled will be much less (some posts say that the real volume is 19G's). Bottom line..nano-reefs need meticulous care. My version has the following specs:

1) 24 Gallons 18"x 19.6 x 19.7, glass, seamless corners
2) 72 ( 2 x 36 )watts of compact fluorescent light, 50/50 actinic, two cooling fans
3)Three stage filtration with three rear chambers; comes with 3 sponges, bioballs, ceramic rings, activated charcoal, 290 GPH stock pump (one sponge not shown..it's in my tank in the test run)


4)Flip top canopy
5) Moonlight LEDs

I found the cheapest place to purchase mine was on Ebay. The LFS was more than $120 higher.

This is a view of my cube during my dry run, testing for temp, leaks, filtration. Note the intake grill on the left and powerhead outlet on the right.


Here is a view of the chambers in the back. One regular size sponge is in the first chamber.Temp probe is in the middle and heater is in the third chamber


Advantages of the Cube

IMO:
1) Appearance...just looks cool
2) Mostly self contained. For some of us, it's just easier to have a 'package deal'
3) Width and depth allow for interesting aquascaping of your live rock

Disadvantages

IMO:
1) Total lighting supplied is inadequate for certain types of corals, thus, may limit what you have in your tank (eg, certain hard corals and clams)
2)Retrofitting takes some skill and, with this model, may lead to overheating
3)Stock pump is weak
4) No skimmer,either surface or protein, although, probably unnecessary for a protein skimmer (to follow).
5) When put on a timer, the fans turn off with the lights and the moonlight LEDs can't turn on, ie, must turn the lights off manually to use the LEDS
6) Must be very creative to have a sump with the cube

So, in some hands, creating your nano-reef from regular tanks may leave more doors open to you for better lighting, plumbing and refugium placement( see Parker313's thread at TFF). This leads to the next discussion.

Modifications to the Nano Cube (or mods)

Many nano-reefers modify their tanks. The main mods are:

1) Swap out the stock pump for a better one, either the Maxijet 1200 or Rio 1400. Some move the stock pump into the first chamber for more water movement
2) Lighting....add more compact fluorescent lighting
3) Modify the middle chamber into a refugium
4) Remove the sponges, bioballs and ceramic rings (some feel they are nirate factories)
5) Add a skimmer, either surface or protein. Most people feel that regular weekly water changes will obviate the need for a protein skimmer. Skimming my remove valuable nutrients. Most protein skimmers won't fit into a NanoCube. There is one interesting post on nano-reef.com about using a cassette tape cover over the intake grate as a surface skimmer. If used, tho', you can't use the stock pump in the first chamber since the inward water flow holds the cassette cover in place.

Shopping List

Planning on what you are going to have in your tank first, ie, READING, will help you to figure out what you need to buy. This is a list of my equipment (hey..I may forget one or two things, so, keep on your toes):

1) Heater....Ebo Jager for me. They're in all my tanks. 100W. Solid as a rock.
2) Thermometer. I used a digital one from Drs. Foster and Smith
3) Hydrometer ( I opted to get a refractometer)
4) Marine test kit: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate...extra is calcium and kH. I went with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals to start. Most rave about Salifert, but, check out the prices on it (it's in the hundreds)
5) Sea salt, popular ones are Oceanic, Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals ( I went with Oceanic)
6) Salt mixing equipment...5 gallon bucket (Home Depot), heater, powerhead, storage container
7) Source of pure water, I purchased an RO/DI unit on Ebay from Aquasafe Systems.

You can buy premixed seawater at most lfs'...either on the shelf or that they make...you can also buy distilled water at the store if you want and mix the salt yourself.
8 ) Miscellaneous...net, small gravel vac for siphoning, gloves, algae scraper
9) Last and not least..when ready...live rock, live sand and/or other substrate (crushed coral, aragonite, etc.)
10) Surge protector and don't forget to setup a GFI circuit near water
11) If you are going to acclimate livestock with the drip method, you'll need tubing and a gang valve.
12) Last but not least, A DIGITAL CAMERA (retro-addition (01/23/06); it's an invaluable tool for when you'll need help (eg, "what is this growing in my tank..is it good or bad?")

Preparation

I won't go into all the 'find a good location for your tank' stuff. I decided to go with the Maxijet 1200.

So...I removed the stock pump from the last chamber. I had to cut the plastic ties on the tubing to get the tube off the pump. I had extra Eheim tubing and replaced the tubing that came with the Nano and also reapplied the ties. The stock pump I will either add to the first chamber or use it for mixing sea water for water changes.

Clean the tank. I used vinegar to help remove some stuck on tape. Rinse.

Set up your tank where you chose the good location and on your stand

My planned live run setup:
1) First chamber: One sponge and possibly the stock pump, facing out of the left side of the intake grate
2) Second chamber: In the future, I will probably add live rock rubble for additional filtration and later on macroalgae as a refugium if I can successfully get light into the middle chamber (this is an area where you have to do some reading and research). Temp probe is in here
3) Third chamber: Maxijet pump, heater

Do a test run. I can't overemphasize this. There are many horror stories of unseen cracks because of the seamless glass. I am presently running mine with FW since I plan to try a refugium modification to see how the temps go. This is where I am for now. SH

In between things, I'll throw in some extra info. Again, this post is geared mostly for the 'how to'.

Seawater (or we're not in Kansas anymore)

Ok, while the tank is in it's test phase, we're leaving FW behind and now to saltwater. I'm leaving all the details for you to read re: mineral content and the history of the ocean and it's reefs. Unlike FW, one needs to be concerned about specific gravity (s.g.) and salinity. Salts dissolved in water increase it's weight and density. Now when we add livestock, we have to be concerned about acclimatizing to s.g., pH, water temp, etc.

We need to make sea water to fill our tanks. Hence,the big pre-seawater comment, "I heard it's a lot more work". Anyway, some stuff you'll need (this is what I have):

1) bucket for mixing sea water
2) Storage container
3)El cheapo heater
4) Powerhead to mix the salt (that is the stock pump I removed in the photo)
5) Hydrometer or refractometer
6) Sea salt



Popular consensus:
1) Sea water should be mixed up the day or two before (aged). It should be heated,mixed with a powerhead, s.g. gravity checked...1.021-1.026. pH about 8.2. A recent poll here showed the majority between 1.023-1.025.
2) SW can be stored for several months if kept well-sealed and in a cool place
3) For brands, Oceanic, Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals got most of the highest reviews. However, you may think differently after reading this article: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-03/rs/f...ature/index.htm

Retroedit 06/01/2005 Since starting this thread, Oceanic Sea Salt may have some problems with low alkalinity. Many are switching to Tropic Marin and others are now raving about Catalina Natural Sea Water (bottled ocean water that is purified). If you don't mind lugging a 2 five gallon jugs home monthly, this may be the route to go.

4) The hydrometer is plastic and many of the 'reefers' posted that it 'works when it wants to'. So...I bought a refractometer..one of the corners I elected not to cut.
5) Now...water. The big heated question. SW fish are extremely sensitive to nitrates and excess phophates can cause algae blooms. So....what to do about water? Options discussed include:
a) tap water filter
buy distilled water
c) buy premixed sea water either at your lfs or in a plastic bottle on the shelf
d) buy an RO/DI filter ...reverse osmosis/de-ionized..which removes virtually all minerals and contaminants from the water.

What I did: throughout all my FW tank changes, my tap water contained 5-20 ppm nitrates even with a PUR water filter. This is totally unacceptable for a SW tank. Many homes have copper pipes...copper can be toxic. Since I would have to do weekly 10% water changes (2.5 gallons/week), I did the math and figured that my own filter made sense. Again, I think they are cheapest on Ebay.

N.B.

At the supermarket, you can buy the store brand container of steam distilled water for $2.25 for 2.5 gallons, priced here in NY. Here are some calculations if you do not want to foot the cost of buying a filter to make RO water:

--adding water to the 24 gallon cube will require 10 containers at a cost of $22.50
--a weekly 10% water change will cost you $2.25
--minimal water requirements for your 1st year will cost you $22.50 + $117.00 (52 x 2.25) =$139.50.
That already exceeds the price of a RO/DI unit. Just food for thought. For some people who don't wish to mess with this stuff, this may be an option.

You can buy premixed SW at some of your lfs' for cheaper, so I hear, but, you have to rely on THEM for mixing and adding PURE water.

Point of Information for Converting FW'ers

New piece of info for us FW aquarists...when there is evaporation of water from a SW tank, the specific gravity will progressively increase since salts do not evaporate. Replacing the water with sea water is a no-no as this will cause a progressive rise in s.g. You must constantly top off the tank with pure water. Therefore, you must always have pure water stored or on hand.

And now..tank update. My tank temp warmed up to 78.9 degrees and held steady. So..I cut the lights now to see what the setpoint on my heater is doing. It cooled to about 77 degrees, so, I know the heater is set below this temp. SO...I've now added my first DIY ....a fuge light, but not one of the ones seen before and it may or may not work.Now I will put on all lights to see how the temp goes with the fuge light going. More pix on this mod to follow. SH

Mod Looks Like a Go

As mentioned above, one of the mods of the Nano Cube is to make a refugium out of the back middle chamber. For other newbies here, a refugium is a 'refuge' or protected area away from the main tank. One desirable reason to have a refugium is that you can keep macroalgae back there. Macroalgae do wonderful things for a SW aquarium, mostly remove phosphates and NITRATES. However, macroalgae can take over your live rock and become a nuisance. Hence, people like to keep it in a refugium. Macroalgae require light, so, if you keep it in the back, you have to figure a way to get light back there. Many people wire small 13Watt CF lights over the back. I was looking for a way to avoid all this 'retrofit' biz. So..my experiment is:

Placing a submersible 10W quartz halogen light in the back over the middle chamber. Requires no rewiring.
a) advantages..ease of placement; waterproof
cool.gif disadvantages...heat, low wattage, light spectrum (3000K), unknown right now if it will support the macroalgae

Well..here is the light:


Here is the mod:


I've run the cube most of the day today with the hood lights on and the 'fuge' light on. There was no heat rise. Looks like this is a go for testing.

Another refugium DIY that some people use is to actually cutout part of the back hood and they put an AquaClear 70 (300) outside powerfilter on the back with some modifications of the plastic media holder. Man..this stuff gets complicated, doesn't it?? Now you know where I was not too long ago.

Well....I think the test run is just about done and I'm ready for live rock and live sand. Moving along. SH

Steelhealr,

This is a great thread, thanks for sharing. I'm very interested in your light mod, have you run it with main lights and fans off to see what effect it has on temps then?

Drew

Yea! You've done your home work and are doing a wonderful job with you tank and this thread. keep us updated. Much thanks for the info! Any one to saltwater can use this as a refrence guide.

Thank you very much for the info.
Well done!

Thanks everyone...I"m just posting what everyone here has given back to all of us... I'm going to include it at the FW forum as most of 'us' come over from there. Anyway, here is the link to the fuge light thread I'm trying:

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=53937

Filtration

The Nano Cube basically has the same ability to peform the same three types of filtration that our FW tanks do...mechanical, biological and chemical. You can see from above what comes with the cube. However, there are opinions about all of this stuff from the reefers. Here goes:

Mechanical

This is provided by sponges, however, they can turn out to be nitrate traps if meticulous cleaning in aquarium water is not done on a routine basis. Some swap out the sponges. Many Nano-ers ditch the sponges or keep just one in the first chamber. I think SOME mechanical is important so, I will go this route....one sponge. Just remember to stay on top of it.

Chemical

Activated carbon is supplied with the cube. Many people switch over to other media including Chemi-Pure and/or Purigen. I'll probably use the supplied carbon and switch to Chemi-Pure after cycling.

Biologic

Ahh...the big difference now between our FW tanks and SW. The predominant source of biologic filtration is live rock. The rock isn't alive, of course, but it's many interstices fill up with the bacteria so familiar to us in the FW biz (i.e., with our sponges and gravel). Denitrification occurs here as well as in the substrate. In addition, the live rock is home to many animals that help keep the tank clean. Some people keep in the bioballs and sponges....one of my lfs's does this in all their SW tanks. However, you must really keep on top of keeping them clean with aquarium water. Many feel they become nitrate traps and SW animals are MUCH more sensitive to nitrates than our FW ones are. Ceramic beads and the bioballs will NOT be in my system. It's a choice that is up to you.

N.B. This might be a good area to discuss another mod. In order to provide maximum biologic filtration, some people will fill the back middle chamber with 'live rock rubble'. Live rubble is pieces of broken up live rock. The middle chamber doesn't get much light, unless, you are planning on making this area a refugium. The rubble acts as increased surface area for biologic filtration. Without light, it will not grow corals here. Above the rock is where people will put their macroalgae (cheato, caulerpa, etc) if this is to become a lighted refugium. You still have to clean up back here to remove detritus or the rubble area can get nitrates as well. However, a simple siphoning probably keeps things pretty clean. Maintenance will be later.

Water Movement

I've added this here because water circulation is extremely important in this SW tank. It keeps water flowing by the live rock and also by your corals (if and when you get them). Recommendations are 10 X the water volume of your tank per hour. Hence, the Maxijet 1200 pumps about 290 GPH. You can add more flow..as mentioned above, you can take the stock pump and place it in the first chamber and 'wedge' it behind the intake grate with the outflow nozzle pointing out at the left side. You want to avoid any pump that will overcome your fish or disturb the substrate. "LR and LS" are next. SH

Live Rock (or where did THAT come from)

Live rock (LR) is the main filtration system for your cube. It is the remains or pieces of coral reef that contain the beneficial bacteria for your tank. It also provides shelter, attachment for corals and contains coralline algae and small critters. You can read tons on LR, which I'll leave for you to do. Live rock is added to your cube when ready for startup and your SW is mixed and ready. After cycling, you may see corals arise, critters (copepods, amphipods) and also pests (later talk).

Cured vs. Uncured

Sounds like a ham, right? Uncured rock is LR that comes right out of the water and has sat for awhile. Some of the organisms die off and when put in a tank, a large ammonia spike can occur. Cured rock is that which comes from your lfs and has already gone thru this dieoff process. Cured LR can have miinimal dieoff if it is rapidly shipped or shipped in waterf. Uncured rock should never be put in a cycled tank with livestock/corals. The ammonia spike will kill them. Truly cured rock could. So, which should you buy? Your call. Uncured rock may take longer to cycle, have an odor, require more work and have more die off, but, it also may arrive with more coralline algae, beneficial life (and pests). Cured rock cycles quicker, but, may lose some of the good stuff. If you are like me, with an empty new tank, you may want to go with uncured, which is what I ordered.

What do I do when it arrives?

Depends on what you are getting. Talk to the dealer before buying it. Many recommend scrubbing the rock with a toothbrush. My dealer did not recommend it. I think it's safe to say that rinsing it in SW and picking off grossly dead material and sponges (if they are there) are wise.

How do I cure my LR?

Easy...you do it in your tank when you're ready to go. Never add uncured rock to an already established tank. If you chose to do it separately, you will need:
1) SW
2) a large bucket or one of those Tupperware like storage containers that you can buy at WalMart or Target
3) heater
4) Powerhead
Here is one of many links to give you a guide:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general...ral_pagesid=293

Sources

1) Your lfs: The easiest source is your lfs. Check out prices; look for good color; ask how long they've had it for. I was unhappy at 4 of my local shops.

2) Internet: I did a lot of research on this. Four of the most popular internet sources for LR were:

a) http://www.premiumaquatics.com
b http://www.liveaquaria.com
c) http://www.liverock.com
d) http://www.tampabaysaltwater.com/

I decided to go with (a). You'll see how my choice worked out when it arrives

3) Make your own: some people do this and although I never reseached it, apparently it is made with concrete and particles that later dissolve to make porosity. One website that has a DIY manual is http://www.thelebos.com. This might be an option for those people who are on a strict budget.

How much?

In general, the estimate is 1.5 lbs of LR per gallon of water in your tank. This is just an estimate. For my 24, I ordered 20lbs since the rock is light. If the rock is dense, you may need more. If it is very pourous, you may need less. Ask the dealer.

Types of LR

Just a few examples of the most popular types:

1) Marshall Islands

2) Fiji

3) Kaelini

4) Tonga branch rock

5) Atlantic base rock..generally a very dense rock and used to as a base rock to save on the cost or add support to the live rock.
6) Aquacultured LR.....farmed LR.....see Tampa Bay link above. They actually 'grow' live rock off of Florida.

Live Sand and Substrate

There are many types of substrate to use in your tank. Unlike a FW tank but similar to a cichlid tank, the pH of a SW tank needs to be higher, around 8.2. Calcium carbonate, the component of seashells, provides that buffering capacity. The average recommendation is 1 lb of substrate/ gallon of water. Depth should be 1- 4 inches deep. Some types of fish need a deep bed (eg, jawfish). However, the deeper it is there may be dead areas which can have a negative effect on the tank. Choices for substrate include:

1)Live Sand: this is sand that contains beneficial bacteria. There is some controversy here. Many say that your sand will seed anyway. Others say that it will 'jump start' your tank. The best live sand is that which you can get from someone elses tanks that contains live organims such as copepods, etc. Some people sell this on Ebay. The other source is store bought.

2) AragAlive: this is a store bought aragonite sand that has beneficial bacteria. It comes in a 20lb bag. Many feel it is the best substrate in the 2-5mm size. Perfect blend of buffering capacity (that crushed coral lacks), porous biolgical capacity, and compatibility with sand loving organisms.


3) Florida crushed coral: Crushed coral has been pretty much avoided in recent years, being a poor biological medium and not very friendly to sand loving organisms.
4) Other types including Fiji pink sand, black sand, Tahitian Moon,etc
5) No substrate: some people go 'barebottom'. Not my cup of tea.

DSB or Deep Sand Bed

A deep sand bed is one that is built up to a layer of 4 inches. This creates dead areas where anaerobic breakdown of nitrates occurs releasing nitrogen gas. It works very well in keeping nitrates reduced, however, most feel that in a nano system, the area is so small that it is not worth it. If not done well, the DSB couild also work as a trap. This is an area for you to read up on to make y our own decision on

Plenum

A plenum works on the the same principal as a deep sand base,however,people create this using electrical eggcrate and PVC tubing. It creates a dead layer of undisturbed sand and water where anaerobic metabolism breaks down nitrates into nitrogen gas which bubbles up and out of the tank.

Update
For anyone following this setup now or in the future, in summary, the startup is:
-stock 24G Nano Cube
-Ebo Jager 100 W heater
-Coralife digital temp probe with LCD backup

Mods

-removal of bioballs, ceramic beads and use of one sponge chamber one (might cut the sponge in half)
-swapped out stock motor in chamber 3 to Maxijet 1200; possible stock motor in 1st chamber
-live rock rubble middle chamber
-submersible 10w light 2nd chamber for possible future refugium

Live Rock

20 lbs of premium uncured rock, nano package (Marshall Islands, Kaelini, Fiji) from premiumaquatics.com and 3-4 lbs of live rock rubble

Substrate

20lbs of AragAlive Aragonite live sand; about 5 lbs of actual live sand from a live tank

Seawater
Oceanic, mixed with RO/DI to s.g. 1.023.

Aquascaping (or can I showup my landscaper)

Just a few thoughts before the LR arrives. A few important rules about setting up the LR in your tank.

1) Be very careful not to drop the rock on the bottom glass. Examine the rock. If it appears to have a side with coralline algae and one side that doesn't, that side was probably 'sun-up' and should be placed that way, color up.
2) Keep the rock open so there is good flow between crevices. Caves, overhangs, etc can provide shelter for fish and are cool. Avoid the classic ROCK CLUMP. Be creative.
3) Make sure the rock is stable. Some people use aquarium safe silicone or epoxies to hold rocks together. Some drill holes and use all plastic ties to hold it together (the plastic will become encrusted with coralline algae
4) Leave room for additions in the future, eg, if you want to add a coral that is attached to a piece of rock, or, a 'frag', you may want to leave a spot or area open for later placement.
5) Leave room around the periphery for maintenance, ie, should you need to scrape algae off the glass

Some people add their sand first, then the rock. This may risk shifting of the rock if the sand shifts or if burrowing animals disturb the bed underneath it. Putting a plate or dish over the sand may prevent disturbing the bed.

The best way I think is to add the rock then add the sand. Since the cube will have seawater circulating at a high level, near the grate,( if you premixed it before in the tank), make sure you remove about 1/3rd the water so it doesn't overflow. You can gently put the sand in by cups. Every tank will have some sort of clouding that should settle. Refill with SW.

Some people have used the following:
a) electrical eggcrate--they claim it distributes the weight of the LR on the bottom of the tank. IMO, I think it creates dead areas by preventing movement and circulation.

b ) PVC tubing, 1/2", shaped into small square frames--supposedly, by placing the LR around this frame, it reduces the amount necessary by creating a scaffold with a hollow interior. Personally, I think this is better on larger tanks and having more LR provides better filtration.

Steelhealr, You are doing GREAT.

Now, when the rock gets here show us some pics of the shipment layed outside the tank and then in the tank. I was gonna do that. But, I got to into the placment of rock and such to do a comparison shot before putting in the tank versus after it's in.

keep up this informative docu-thread!
Trekbear

Thanks Trekbear...hopefully this will help some lost people who meandered over here from FW...LIKE ME....who arrived here looking for something to print out and get started. And..uh....having a 'guru' helps. Like in the Wizard of Oz, I needed a phila...phila...phila....er....GOOD DEED DO'ER!!!!!! SH

N.B.

Hi...important note about the RO/DI water filter and making pure water. Unless your house and tap water is different from mine, this takes !@#$#%^& forever. Plan ahead when ordering your LR and making seawater. My system made 5 gallons in about 10 hours. Slow as molasses. SH

OK..my live rock and rubble should arrive tomorrow. Setup photos to come. I hope this will help someone who was clueless to start like me. I needed a framework and searching all the different threads, it was like trying to sew a quilt together. SH

Ready to Rock (or my LR arrived)

I underestimated the amount of time I needed to make RO water but snuck in under the wire. I liked using the refractometer and feel more confident about it. I compared it with the plastic hydrometer and they were off by .003. However, both were in the 'safe zone'. So, my water parameters were (tested all of 'em for practice):

pH 8.2
s.g. 1.024 , salinity 30
ammonia, nitrite, nitrate 0 (obviously)
Calcium 500 ppm
Alkalinity 3 meq/l

In summary, I ordered 20lbs of the premium LR, uncured, nano package from premiumaquatics.com. They were very friendly, very professional, answered all my questions and shipped that day. Took exactly 48 hours to arrive. Here are some pix.
Sorry if the pix are boring, but, for any of you who never ordered live rock like me, here is how it arrived:

The shipment arrived with wet paper but no water. Didn't really have an odor.


As you can see below, my LR rubble was separately packaged. Notice the good red and green coralline algae.


I removed 1/3rd of the seawater, placed some of my live sand towards the back and then I tried to arrange the rock as an atoll, or C-shaped. It wasn't easy with the rock pieces and small tank size. I wish I spent more time as a kid doing building blocks. It wasn't easy trying to get the rock to lock...I may even try a rearrange. I then added live sand, leaving room for a bit more when the live sand from a live tank arrives (around 5lbs). After most of the dust cleared...and trust me it was pea soup, I turned the lights on to take a pic for the thread:



I have a cave on the right, a reasonable C (indentation in the front), an open hole in the top back, lots of crevices. I might adjust the rock on the left.

Here is another shot that shows good green coralline algae and directly below it, pink coralline algae. None of the lfs's where I live had rock with this color:


So, time to cycle. Then we await a little algae growth, then it will be time for the 'cleanup crew'. I'll leave the lights off for now and let things settle. Supposedly, this thing can get quite rank. We'll see. And.....I'm not going to torture everyone with daily water parameters. SH

Yup its gonna smell for a while, depends on your LR, when I cycled it smelled pretty bad for the 1st week.

I'll bet it will Hardy. BTW, premiumaquatics.com gets thumbs up in my books. SH

Hey SH,

Great insight on you experience so far....

It will help with my initial setup of 24G JBJ..

Thanks

No problem MrD....just trying to help out. I was just trying to start a thread with most of the searches I had to do here. I didn't have a SW guru/expert/lfs availabe to me, so, I literally was starting from zero knowledge base. I just wanted this to be a springboard so other 'newbies' could more easily get off the ground and use most of their search time for fine tuning, not on posts like 'how do I make seawater'. Thanks for taking the time to post. Please feel free to put a post of your nano here when you are up and running. SH

OK, What do I do Now?

For one thing, take a breather. I'm glad I put a tarp down on the floor because that was sort of messy. Some points to ponder now that the rock is in:

Cycling

Ok, the tank is now cycling. If you used uncured like me, this could take 2-6 weeks. If cured, you could be cycled in 1-2 weeks or less if lucky. Parameters to follow are the usual: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. How frequently...there are different opinions. I'm going to test daily.

Lighting

Again...some different opinions here. If you don't supply light to the coralline algae on the LR, you will have more die off. Some recommend 10-12 hours per day for cured. Some say start 2 hours per day in the beginning and increase daily, uncured. If your rock is cured, I'd start light up right away.

Water Changes

Popular posts say to avoid water changes during the cycle to prevent delaying it. Others recommend a change if you have a very high spike in ammonia. If you do do a water change, most recommend a 10% one

Specific Gravity

As the week goes on, you will have some evaporation from the tank. Remember that in a marine tank, salt does not evaporate and the s.g. will slowly rise. This is when one will 'top off' with pure water. If your s.g. needs to be gently raised, eg, you need to go from s.g. 1.023 to 1.025, you can carefully topoff with SW. If you are at the s.g. you want to maintain, you will top off with pure water.

Saltkreep

As water evaporates, it will leave crusted salt on the top of the tank. This should be wiped off with a clean moist cloth. Make sure you don't use any chemicals or a cloth that was used elsewhere.

Algae

Yes..it's coming and hopefully not overwhelming. This when to add ( and I love this term) The Cleanup Crew..to be discussed. SH

Thanks...I'm not really a newb, but it's appreciated all the same

....something is swimming in my tank. LOLOL. I think it's a copepod. The first sign of life. SH

What the Heck is That in My Tank, or, Week 1

Well..there IS something swimming in my tank and it's already day 2. This is cool. So, what's gonna be going on with the Nano Cube. Below is just a rough idea:

Week 1-2

Avoid water changes. Top off with pure water if necessary. Check parameters on the tank. With uncured, start lighting 1-2 hours/day and slowly increase about 1/2 hour per day until 8-12 hours are reached. You may start to see little white things moving around. These may be copepods and are GOOD...food.

Week 2-3

Make sure all equipment is working. Check powerheads. Top off the water. Diatoms may start to appear.

Week 4-5

Diatoms recede and, hopefully, by now ammonia and nitrite are zero. Time for the 1st water change. If you are mixing, premix the night before. If buying..well...all you have to do is warm up the SW and check s.g. Then, time to add the Cleanup Crew

Week 6-8

Water changes as needed and when parameters are 'excellent', time to add your livestock slowly.

The Cleanup Crew

After cycling and after appearance of algae, it's time to add the Cleanup Crew. This is a crew of invertebrates to help keep your tank clean. Some will eat algae; some will eat detritus; some will actually clean your fish of parasites. They all perform a purpose. Again, this is just a guideline. Choice of characters and researching them I'll leave to you. The inverts have to be acclimated the same as livestock. Again, here is a good acclimation guide:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general...eral_pagesid=19

Snails
General recommendations are 1 snail/1-2 gallons. As you add them, remember not to add too many of one kind...you don't want to add 10 snails that eat algae and then have them starve while no one is there to eat hair algae, eg. Here is an example of a cleanup crew somone used in their 20 gallon:

5 Nassarius Snails
3 Astraea Snails
5 Cerith Snails
1 Turbo Snails
1 Fighting Conch
1 Scarlett Reef Hermit

1)Astrea--these have sharp, conical shells with circular ridges. They remain small
Advantages: they stay small. Great herbivores. Very hardy.
Disadvantages: if they fall, they can't right themselves and may die.


2) Nassarius--These are small snails that burrow in the sand and eat detritus. They
are more scavengers than algae eaters. They are becoming more popular and
receive a lot of good comments from others



3) Turbo--They have black shells and grow to 3".
Advantages: Excellent herbivores
Disadvantages: They can knock things over in the tank and it is not
uncommon for them to die from poor acclimation.


4) Cerith--small, less than 1" snails with pointed shells, usually covered with coralline algae.
Advantages: Good herbivores. Hardy and long lived.
Disadvantages: Not effective against hair algae


5) Nerite--small, less than 1" with a rounded shell covered with coralline algae. Sometimes has a stripe or spots
Advantages: Good herbivores, hardy, long lived
Disadvantages: may wander out of the tank


6) Other snail for you to look up: Trocus Grazers. Upcoming, crabs and hermits. SH

Is it wrong to say I love you? Seriously though, this is a fantastic guide. You've done a great job of ordering and organizing the info we've all come across ("we've" being us newbies) and haven't been able to make heads of as of yet. This is a great help once I start my nano.

By the way, was there a specific type of Aragalive you used? Fiji, Bermuda Pink, etc?

Hi.. it was Carribean AragAlive (there is a picture of it on this thread). I looked at the mixed black and white sand, Fiji pink, etc. Being a scuba diver, the white sand is what I saw on most of my dives, so, that's what I went with. BTW..my tank is cycling, so, I think that sand DOES work. It's been 2 days and my ammonia went from 1.0ppm to 0.5. Nitrite is 2ppm and I already have nitrates, 30ppm. I also saw something swimming in there last night...probably a copepod. No problem coogarts. In addition, try looking on Ebay for live sand. You can get a cupful or 5lbs of live sand from a running tank to help seed the tank with copepods, etc and mix it with your Aragalive.

I meant this thread to be available to US so we could just not have to wait for responses to redundant posts and get up, going, and spend time researching the finer points. I can understand why one frequently sees '0' replies to 'what is live rock'. Most of the info here is material gathered from recommendations of other reefers, either from PMs to me or other threads. Hey..send me a link when you get your tank up and running and lets see how you made out. SH

Crabs

Crabs are another invertebrate that you can add to your cube. General recommendations are only 1-2 per 3-5 gallons if small and only one if they are large. Some types can be semi-aggressive and some might pick at corals. Others have good advantages in that they eat leftover food or detritus. One eats a nano cube pest, bubble algae.

1) Emerald crabs (mithrax)--a green crab with heavy claws and hair on it's hind legs. Primarily nocturnal, hiding in crevices during the day. Generally not aggressive.Very hardy and eat algae.
Advantages: they eat hair and bubble algae;very hardy
Disadvantages: they may not control ALL the algae; some may pick at
coral;larger crabs might become aggressive


2) Sally Light Foot (Nimble Spray crab)--this crab generally gets a 'no vote' in the nano reef forums. The crab has yellow markings around it's joints and a green-brown carapace. Primarily algae eaters and very active.
Advantages: pick at algae on LR and eat left over food; very hardy.
Disadvantages: Nano reefers claim this crab may attack your corals.
They do walk over them and disturb them; can compete aggressively for food;
low iodine levels may cause molting problems; larger crabs have been accused
of attacking shrimp.



Hermits

First off, there are some nano-reefers who don't put hermit crabs into their tanks. It appears that some may get aggressive and darn right thefty. Not only can they steal food from others, they can steal their homes. They are very good scavengers though, so, you'll decide on whether or not to use them.

1) Red leg hermit--these are dark red with yellowon the eye stalk and claw tips.
Advantages: very hardy, good scavengers;clean algae;
Disadvantages: can grow fairly large; can uproot corals and loosen rocks


2) Left handed hermits: this hermit's left claw is larger than the right, used to close off the shell. It has long eye stalks. Herbivorous.
Advantages: sifts and aerates the sandbed; eats red slime algae
(cyanobacteria)
Disadvantages: vulnerable when molting/leaving it's shell,
bold temperament


3) Blue legged hermit: small hermit crab with bright blue legs. They are scavengers and will eat detritus and algae.
Advantages:very hardy; stays small
Disadvantages: has been known to harass and attack other snails; needs
needs new shells as it grows, thus, need to keep some shells in the tank


Other hermits to look up: the scarlet hermit.

Shrimp

Great work, steelhealr.

Thanks Sterling...the thread is almost done. After that....I'll prolly just do the tank update thing. LOL SH

Shrimp

No cocktail sauce here. Shrimp in a nano-reef are supposed to be great cleaners. One of the interesting aspects of these inverts is that they can help to rid your fish of parasites. They can actually pick ich off your fish. Anyway, here are a few friendly ones.

1) Skunk Cleaner Shrimp(scarlet cleaner shrimp): red with a white stripe and white dots near the tail. It can actually set up a cleaning station on the reef. Does not tolerate high levels of nitrates or copper and needs iodine for molting.


2) Blood Shrimp (Fire shrimp): one of the most popular shrimp to have in the aquarium. Doesn't get along with others of it's kind unless it's a mate. Prefers caves and overhangs away from the light. These may clean fish also and will clean up some leftover food. Does not tolerate high nitrates


3)Camel Shrimp (Hinge Beak Shrimp): has a movable jaw and has multiple white stripes on it's body. Prefers caves and crevices. May pick at certain corals (soft leather corals).


4) Peppermint Shrimp (Veined Shrimp): considered a scavenger, these guys might munch on one of the pests we see, Aiptasia. Won't tolerate any nitrates.


P.O.I. : Look up the symbiosis of a pistol shrimp and certain goby fish, eg, a high fin goby. It maybe an interesting combo for the tank.

Next, hitchhikers. SH

This really is a great post. Are you going to hit on stocking the tank. Should you add fish first or corals, and should you wait a few weeks between adding corals like you do with fish or can you add them anytime you want?

HI WB9258....once the tank cycles and algae arrives, the cleanup crew is added...usually followed by livestock. Corals need really great water quality, so, I would be in no immediate rush to add them. Some can be expensive. My tank is already looking like it is starting to complete it's cycle..ammonia and nitrite are dropping. When zero, next is a water change to get the nitrates down. SH

Hitchhikers (or The Good, the Bad and the Ugly)

The diversity of life in the ocean is truly amazing. What blows me away is the tenacity of some organisms and their ability to survive under the most adverse conditions. Thus...our live rock..it comes from halfway around the world. When it goes back into SW and cycles, wonderful things happen. Some coralline algae survives. Even certain corals. But what keeps us running to the tank? Why, to see who popped up in the middle of the night, that's why. These are the 'hitchhiker's...things that were hiding in the LR and survived. Some, in fact, most, are beneficial to our cube. Others can be outright nasty.

By now, most who chose to follow this thread as a guide have their Nano Cube up and running. Therefore, the following is just a help in recognition, trying to keep a guide in one thread. If you see any of the following in your tank, some action may be necessary or none at all. I'll leave the 'treatment' details/techniques up to you.

The Good

Calcareous coralline algae: that colorful encrusting growth on the rock. Good quantities can mean good water quality and inhibit the growth of undesirable algae.


Macroalgae: can help to keep nitrate to a minimum and provide food. Some can overproliferate and many nano-reefers prefer to keep it in their refugiums.


Sponges: add color to the reef. Filter the water and need nutrients (not photosynthetic).


Microcrustaceans: mollusks, small worms, echinoderms, copepods, amphipods etc.


Featherduster worms: they filter water to get their food (not photosynthetic). Can be very attractive


The Bad

Aiptasia anemones (glass anemone): these usually appear soon after the LR cycles. They may appear as light brown to nearly transparent growths that then spread like wildfire. They sting other inverts to make room for themselves. Trying to remove them manually may spread them or is impossible since they withdraw into the rock. Treatment includes rock removal, injection, finding a suitable predator that eats it.


Mantis shrimp: Not shrimp at all, they are nocturnal predators with an evil weapon, their chelae. This attachment can spear or smash prey. They can split your finger easily, so, beware. Most aquarists become aware of it's presence when their livestock start disappearing. Treatment is to catch it with a trap. DON'T HANDLE IT!


Bristleworms: careful again. These worms have rows of bristles which can either cause a reaction or sting if touched. These worms are getting less of a bad rap except for a few species (hermodice carunculata) which can eat polyps. They actually eat detritus. They can get quite long. If problematic, they can be caught with traps.


The Ugly

Bubble Algae: Well, actually, some people think it is attractive in the tank.
Bubble algae is not necessarily a hitchhiker and may arrive in the first algae bloom. It is considered a pest in the mini-reef tank. Bubble algae can overrun your tank. It can't be controlled by reducing lighting or trying to 'starve it'. Best bet is to CAREFULLY remove it manually from the tank (bursting it may remove hundreds of spores). Emerald crabs eat it and some tangs ( but they are too big for the cube).


Here are two links to do more reading on hitchhikers:
1) http://www.reefs.org/hhfaq/index.html
2) http://www.reefcorner.com/hitchhikers.htm

thx for all of your hard work

Update

My tank is cycling faster than I thought for uncured. My parameters:

pH 7.6
ammonia 0
nitrite 0.125 ppm
nitrate 15 ppm
dH 8
s.g. 1.026

I topped off my water to bring it back down to 1.025 and I made SW yesterday. If my parameters are all 0 today, then it will be time for my first water change already. Hopefully that will bring the pH back up and drop the nitrates down. I also think that I am seeing some algae on the back of the LR in the back. If so, it's getting closer to adding the cleanup crew. No new life as yet. I'm still waiting for my other aliquot of live sand from someone's live tank...I'll have to watch for a recycle since it is being shipped and you don't want to add livestock if there is going to be more die off. SH

Excellent thread. Thank you very much for the details you are providing.
Buying sand from an unknown source (assumed) do you not run the risk of adding some of your bad and ugly hitchhikers, as well as toxins and other unwanted nasties?
You mentioned earlier about buying sand on ebay, that is why I have assumed you do not know the true source of the sand. I guess you just have to trust your supplier and hope his/her tank is not a chemical bath, containing things like copper?
I may be wrong also.

Greetings SH, excellent post.I just purchased the same unit you have described today over the internet.. Should recieve it on saturday......I have purchased all of the equpiment that you have suggested for modding the hood for the refugium, and new powerheads ect. I wanted to ask you about the refugium set up. Should i use both rubble and micro alge combined or just the alge? I have decided on Halimeda as the alge of choice, any thoughts on that?
Also, not sure if second power head should be placed inside or outside of intake bulkhead....
Lastly, any ideas on an auto top off system?

Thanks again for taking us newbies along on your nano journey,

WM


Please submit some new photo's of your rig

HI Wooby..thanks a lot....I have 3-4 lbs of LR rubble placed in the middle chamber. After the tank cycles, I will put the macroalgae in the middle chamber above the rubble and under the light. I don't think there is a problem with Halimeda. Chaeto is another very popular one. Caulerpa as I understand it can cause problems.

As for the additional powerhead, I tried placing the stock pump behind the grill/intake in the first chamber. Although it fits by hanging off the wall between chambers 1 and 2, I was unhappy with the result. If the intake is not placed down, it can suck in air and cause a ton of bubbles. Placing the intake down, I found, draws some water up from the sponge and I found it shooting out some debris. Also, it seems the output nozzle tends to aim upward. Maybe it was just me and others have had better success. One of my gurus here dremeled a hole in the middle chamber and his second powerhead comes out of there. I would like to see it I could stack the stock pump in the 3rd chamber and see if there are some fittings to bring a tube over the wall and attach a nozzle there and direct flow towards the left facing the tank. If you are not a perfectionist, you could always just attached a powerhead to the back wall with the supplied suction cups.
As for the auto topoff system, check this out:
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...es&pagenumber=1
Keep me posted on how you make out. My tank appears to be cycled. SH

To outtafocus...there is always a risk..but...I was comfortable with the feedback, responses and answers to my questions. As mentioned earlier, I've been very disappointed with the lfs's in my area. The best way is if you have a good buddy with a tank. Be that as it may, my tank ammonia is now at 0, nitrite 0 and nitrates 10 and dropping. I can't believe how fast it is cycling. SH

Adding Fish (or, now can I finally add Nemo)



There is not much room in the cube, so, one has to be very careful about adding fish. This part is the personal part, so, I am not going to do 'stocking suggestions'. Also, to post dozens of pictures of individual fish takes time and space. 'Googling' the image is the best way to go. So, just a few rules on the basics:

1) Make sure the tank is cycled and you've changed out your water. Zero across the board if possible with your parameters.

2) Go slow. No slam dunking and dumping all the fish in at once. Resist the 'just one more fish' urge.

3) Acclimation is extremely important...think drip method. Remember, you have pH, temperature and specific gravity to think about.

4) READ UP ON THE FISH YOU WANT TO ADD. They have differences in aggression, termperament, territorialness, eating behavior, etc. Many don't get along with similar sexes or types of their own kind and should not be in pairs. Some might pick at corals.

5) The most passive fish should be put in first; aggressive last.

6) Don't shoot me....there is the classic 1 inch of fish per 2 gallons still printed out there. Suffice it to say, buy fish that will stay small. On average, for our cube, 4-5 fish.

7) The dreaded word...quarantine. Yes, SW species should be quarantined. Think quarantine tank.

8 ) Resist the 'just one more fish' urge.

9) Know what and how much to feed. Overfeeding is a sure source of nitrates which are not tolerated in SW nano systems compared to FW.

10) Avoid the classic 'dumping the lfs' water into the tank.

Nano-Reef Fish

Here is a brief list of some common or popular nano fish:
1) Gobies: Green and Brown Clown Goby, Catalina Goby,Citrina, Court Jester, Hi Fin Red Banded, Neon Blue, Hector's, Orange Spotted, Two Spot, Watchman Gobies, Shrimp
2) Firefish: Purple
3) Clownfish: Black and White Percula, True Percula, Oscellaris
4) Blennies: Harptail, Barnacle, Black Lined, Red Sea Mimic, Bicolor
5) Wrasses: Six line, golden or canary
6) Basslets: Swissguard, Blackcap
7) Cardinalfishes: Pajama, Banggai, redtail
8 ) Clingfish
9) Jawfish: dusky and yellowhead
10) Damselfish.: can be very pugnacious and aggressive. Look at the Yellowtail Blue Damsel (chrysiptera parasema)
11) Royal Gramma
12) Dottybacks (Pseudochromis): caution, may be aggressive; less aggressive species are the Orchid Dottyback, Springer's and Sankey's (Black-and-White)
13) Hawkfish: flame
14) Assessors: Yellow and Blue




Advanced Projects (or, hey, I'm getting the hang of this)

Almost done with this for the cube owner. Just a few final thoughts, some previously mentioned, for us Nano Cubers who started out stock and want to move up in the world.

Corals and Lighting

This is the Achilles heel of the present 24G Nano Cube DX.....lighting. Many corals including hard ones require moderate to intense lighting. Our cube will support some soft corals (softies). Examples are Ricordia and some Zoonanthids. So..one project is to DIY improve your lighting. Be aware that there are some heat issues involved with the hood. You can always check out this site, http://www.nanocustoms.com, run by a gentleman named Chris, who modifies the hoods. However, dont' jump ship if you dont' upgrade. Here is a link for the stock lighting on a 12G Nano.As for the corals, you're on your own now just like me.
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=52734

Refugiums

As we talked about earlier, many nano-reefers turn the back middle chamber of the cube into a refugium, an isolated/protected area separate from the main tank. Many place their macroalgae back here, but, again, lighting is the issue. You've seen my DIY which is awaiting setup. Try coming up with something unique. Someone is now looking into a submersible compact fluorescent light that will fit back there. Some have used an AquaClear filter cut into the back. Come up with a new idea.

Water Movement

I saw a post with a rough guide of 10X average flow; 15X good for 'softies'; 20X for hard corals. Design additional water movement for your tank. One of my SW gurus dremeled (a special drill) a hole in the top of the middle chamber and added another pump and outflow nozzle. I tried putting my stock pump in the first chamber but was unhappy with the results--churned up debris from the sponge in the chamber and angling the flow was difficult.

Skimmer

Skimming not only removes dissolved organics but also can removed dissolved nutrients. I think the majority of nano-reefers believe that regular water changes obviate the need for a skimmer. However, if you feel strongly about having one, you can try and design one. As of this date, there aren't any retail skimmers that fit in the cube that function well, unless, you want to open up the hood and use one periodically as an external one.
Here is a popular link on how someone used an old cassette cover as a skimmer:
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...ghlight=doriftu
Please note that this is a surface skimmer...see Outtafocus's post on page 5 re: surface and protein skimmers.


Auto Topoff
Some people have come up with ways to have their tanks 'auto-topped-off'. They add a float switch and when the tank level drops, fresh water is automatically added. Here are a couple of links to ponder:
http://www.autotopoff.com/
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/showthread...ht=float+switch

Moonlight LEDs

As you know by now, if you put your lights on a timer, you will not be able to use your moonlights since cutting off the power to the CPF's also cuts power to the LEDs. You could look into a way to rewire the LEDs in the hood or make your own. There are many links for this as well.

Last but not least....cube maintenance. SH

SH thanks for the reply...
Concerning the mod on the middle tank (hole for the power head) could you include a pic? I am still confused on the circulation process. I was under the impression that the first bulkhead is an intake. If you have a PHead returning outward from the intake grate does that not turn it into an outtake? Or is the jet flowing another direction? Is there a way to mod two Pheads in the third tank and leave the other two for filtration? Probably making a mountain out of a mole hill huh?

Thanks again,

WDM

Hi Wooby cat...not at all. If you plan on getting into corals, water circulation is critical. Some people here are going 20X for hard corals (20 times tank turnover/hour...or...for our 24G, almost 500 GPH).
The circulation process is as follows....water enters the first chamber via the intake grate on the top and circulates downward. If you have a sponge here, it passes thru the sponge and out a slot towards the bottom. The water now enters chamber two, where, if you have LR rock rubble, macroalgae or chemi-pure etc, it passes thru here. So....mechanical filtration in chamber one, biologic and chemical in chamber 2. Then enters the bottom of chamber 3 where it is pumped out into the outake nozzle at the top of the tank

People are always looking for ways to modify this cube and, as I said above, I don't think putting the pump in the first chamber is the best mod, especially if you are going to use a sponge in it. For one thing, it WILL pull some water up thru the sponge and pull particulate stuff out and shoot it out into the tank. What people have done is take the stock pump and fit it into the first chamber and direct the nozzle out of the lower left corner of the grate. I found it unsatisfactory and YES...I agree with you...the first two chambers should be for filtration.

If you make the middle chamber a refugium or have LR rubble here, that would make placement in this chamber somewhat problematic. I think chamber 3 would probably be the best place for it somehow.I am looking into this. I don't have any pix of the other mod...my guru is working on it. I'll ask him about it. I want to see if I can place the stock pump in chamber three above the other one and see if there are some elbows/ tubing that I can connect over the wall if possible short of drilling another hole. Not sure if this is feasible as I think someone else would have come up with this mod already. The only concern is whether the two pumps would create a heat issue. SH

how did the wp light work in the back?

What and where did you get this light?

WP? meaning..? The light I planned to used is a 10 w halogen submersible. I'm going to put it in after the tank cycles and after I get livestock in. I'll post here. It is an egglite..you can get them online, on Ebay and at some pond stores. SH

Beauty Happens Slowly, Disaster Happens Quickly (or, Tank Maintenance)

I think this is a good place to stop the diatribe and just fade into the classic 'here is how my tank is doing'. But...specifically for the cube, a brief review of some stuff we can do to prevent a 'crash'. Get in the habit of doing the maintenance and stick with it. Those of you who came over here like me from FW.....these tanks won't take the missed water changes or parameter checks. So, the basics again:

Water Changes

Hey..broken record here, but, this is obviously the most important thing to do. I did weekly changes with my FW and I will do weekly with the cube to start off. If you get really good and comfortable and have a good handle on your bioload, biweekly might be the way to go. Recommendations are 10% if you do weekly changes, 15-20% if biweekly. Make sure the water is tank temp and same s.g.

Topping Off

Don't forget that evaporation will raise your salinity/specific gravity. You must top off with pure water as you see needed during the week. It can be daily or less. DO NOT top off with SW unless you are trying to bring up your s.g. SALT DOES NOT EVAPORATE.

The Chambers

In chamber one, make sure you keep up with cleaning the sponge to prevent it from becoming a 'nitrate trap'. Cleanse it 1-2 times per week in either aquarium water or change it out altogether (rotate it) with another sponge. Some cubers don't use a sponge at all, so, biologic activity loss seems much less a risk in view of our great live rock.

In chamber two, make sure your temp probe batteries stay fresh. I put a backup LCD strip on the back side of my tank. Use a gravel siphon to do some cleanup if you placed LR rubble in here.

In chamber three, don't forget that the pump requires monthly maintenance. The impeller may need cleaning. Some people have put a sock over the intake if they have detritus getting into the pump. I have the sieve/screen that came with the Maxijet.

Substrate

As long as you have a good cleanup crew, there shouldn't be much to do for your substrate. Some people try a light gravel vac but, seems not to work very well for obvious reasons.

Saltkreep

This build up of salt on the edge of the tank can be wiped clean with a damp cloth. NEVER USE CHEMICALS OR A CONTAMINATED RAG.

Algae

Algae may have to be scraped from the tank walls. The MagFloat works well. If you have other areas of algae building up...check your cleanup crew roster and see if you need any more or different players.

Lighting

Don't forget to have replacement lights available around the six month period. CPF bulbs begin to lose some lighting power at this point.

Parameters

This is your call depending on how your tank runs and how your nitrates are. Obviously, more frequently in the beginning is better until you know that you keep getting '0's all the time. Don't forget s.g. And, finally:

Deadly Nitrates, What Do I Do?

In general, zero tolerance for nitrates. SW inverts and fish just don't do well with them...in fact..it's poison. If you start turning up nitrates, you'd better look into it and quickly.

Visible Signs of Rising Nitrates/Excess Nutrients

1) Increasing necessity to scrape the glass with a magfloat, ie, increased diatom load
2) Corals close (xenia, leathers and hammer/anchor coral are sensitive to water conditions and are good barometers)
3) Appearance of unwanted visitors, ie, cyanobacteria (red slime algae)or hair algae although could be phosphates as well

SH's Law, well, uh, JMO

Nitrate levels:

0-5 ppm Nanomaster, great job
5-10 ppm NanoEnsign, not bad, not bad
10-15 ppm All hands on deck, if you have that dark yellow to orangey color, you'd better start doing something
>15 ppm NanoNewb....urgent intervention, you may lose livestock.

Possible Sources

1) Poor tank maintenance
2) Lapse of/infrequent water changes
3) Overfeeding
4) Overstocking
5) Someone's dead
6) Nitrate 'traps'

Remedies

1) Immediate water change. If you are using filtered tap water (which isn't the best option), check it for nitrates. You may want to switch to distilled or RO. Pure water is still the best and the reduced phosphates may also prevent an algae bloom.
2) Examine your feeding habits....reduce feeding
3) If you used the ceramic beads and/or bioballs, clean them in aquarium water or discontinue them altogether. Siphon out the live rubble chamber
4) Clean that sponge. Consider cutting it in half, or discontinuing it or switching it out.
5) Consider adding a refugium with macroalgae to help with nitrates in the tank
6) Return any overstocked livestock to your lfs...they should take them back and its the most humane thing to do.
7) If you added a non-photosynthetic coral (eg, tubastrea or sun coral), you maybe overfeeding it. Consider it as an 'extra fish' in the tank. Cut the feeding down.
8) There is a media insert called Algone which reportedly denitrifies nitrates. http://www.algone.com/

Sorry WP = water proof

Hey Steelhealr. This keeps getting better.

I just want to comment on the skimmer issue. Some people may get confused about skimmers with the way in which you describe the cassette tape case skimmer.
1- protein skimmer: uses micro bubbles to which dissolved organic compounds cling and are carried to the collection cup to be removed.

2- surface skimmer: A device which allows the tanks surface water to fall over the edge and then flows either to a sump or other filter method. This is what the cassette case does, removes surface scum by "skimming" the surface of the water. See also the Fluval/Aquaclear surface skimmer.

I'm just ensuring everyone sees the difference between the two. Thanks

Outtafocus...excellent point. Thanks for posting this. I hope you don't mind but I'll make an edit note in the thread to look here on this page to see your comment. See page 4 under skimmers. Very good..thanks. SH

Just want to say thanks to Parker 313 at TFF...hers were the first photos of a nano tank I saw and the reason my garage smells like seawater (just teasing). And...of course..to trekbear for picking me up, dusting me off and pointing me in the right direction(lol).....and...to all the people here at nano-reef for nothing but supportive PM's and posts, especially in the face of posting a newbie thread before the monitor screens of hundreds of experienced nano-reefers. SH

Just as a side note, for anyone that is a complete newbie to SW tanks and likes to learn about the processes there within, the links SH gave about LR provide some great information about the subject.

SH, again, much appreciation for putting together this thread.

Hey SH,

24g cube should arrive today..A couple of questions for you. What additional tubing (dia. ect) will I need to swap the stock rio for the mj 1200 you suggested....Also, any ideas on how to place 2 powerheads in the 3rd chamber as to leave the first two as filtration?

regards,

WDM