Just want to make sure I've got this right since there's no instruction manual...











Also, should there be any glue used? Or does wrenching down on the rubber grommets provide a good enough seal?

Is there any reason to go with hard PVC tubing over flexible tubing when going to the sump? Because the bulkhead fittings are slip/barb, it looks like they were designed for soft tubing.... but most setups I've seen are regular PVC pipes.



I site-searched and googled the hell out of this kit and haven't found an instructional... Just want to make sure my brand new hardwood floors are safe!

...and yes, I know the glass of the tank goes between the grommets... This was my dry-fit before I set the tank up.

no glue should be needed for that kit. it seems like all the necessary connections are installed already.

the bulkheads dont need any sort of glue. just wrenching on the nut with the rubber grommets will provide a good enough seal. sandwich the glass with the rubber grommets. dont over tighten the nut, you will risk stripping the threads/cracking the nut.

you pretty much assembled all the pieces right. the strainer in the drain pipe is to prevent any snails clogging up the drain and overflowing the tank. the 90degree elbow with the strainer should be turned 180degrees so the inlet faces down.

you might want to put some teflon tape on the return nozzle's thread to prevent it from binding, and would give you a lot less headache when you want to take it off.

once you have everything connected to your tank. all you need to do is connected the return line to the return hose via flex tubing, same with the drain. might want to get some hose clamps on the barb fittings to prevent the lines from coming loose.



flex tubing is a lot easier to work with than pvc pipes. theres a lot less measuring, cutting, gluing and bracing. either way works just fine. PVC looks more professional and might last longer than tubing. not to mention a lot less nasties growing inside the pipe (no light getting throw = no algae growth)

Okay, so this is right?



There strainer doesn't fit tight, so gravity lets it fall right out... Should I wrap it in teflon tape to tighten it up, or is the suction when water is running through supposed to hold it in?

Also, the duckbill on the return looks really tight to me... Is this piece shaped the way it's supposed to be? I feel like it's going to restrict the flow like crazy.

Just want verification that this is the correct way to set this guy up... It seems upside down to me... Again, the strainer falls out b/c of gravity.



Sorry about the glare... It's the best shot I could get.

looks right. remember the bulkheads only need to be finger tight.

Yeh you got it it right. It's a durso stand pipe. You could probably dab a little glue on the strainer so it stays put.

LOL

Wow,

what ever they sent you is a fail in many ways.

Flare(Duckbill) - It looks deformed.As iv never seen one smothered in the middle like that. Its a FAIL.
Bulkheads - Brabed fittings. Looks like you didnt want that. FAIL
No instructions- FAIL
Strainer Fitting- This ones funny. WTF were they thinking- FAIL
ALMOST 200$ ------ FAIL FAIL FAIL

With all that FAIL, Id never put that in my tank. Even if they shipped you a new kit.
Id return it and give them hell.

As for bulkheads being finger tight is true but------theres more.
TRUST ME. I found out the hard way.
What you do is put a bead of silicone on the threads and/or washer and screw it all together for a water tight fitting.


To be honest I feel soo bad in that fail of a kit. I'll make u one at your change- shipping and some $ for time/gas.

Heres my durso-

Cost next to nothing.

saying FAIL is so lame..

• he probably spend 200 total on the tank and the plumbing kit, not the plumbing it itself
• there is nothing wrong with barb fittings. as long as it holds water its fine. might not look as "professional" but it works
• the strainer fitting is to prevent snails and other creatures from entering the pipe restricting the flow and creating a flood.

as for the return nozzle its probably not locline but some cheap imitation. you can fix that by softening up the plastic in some hot water and widen the nozzle. hold the nozzle open till the plastic is cold enough to take shape again.

you can add a bead of silicone to the bulkheads for insurance, but totally not needed if installed properly. run a leak test first before you start filling your tank with salt water.

KG,

a few things....

First, +1 to disaster on heating up the return pipe and seeing if you can wedge a piece of something in there to bend it back out and then cool it down in ice water. It may not work, but it's free so why not?

I wouldn't use silicone on the rubber seals, but rather a silicone grease you can buy in the plumbing section. Like this.

You can buy black vinyl tubing if you're worried about algae growing inside the tubing. Either way, barbed fittings are fine, but I would use some hose clamps or zip ties just to be safe. Hose clamps are safer as long as you don't over tighten them. I know someone who's accidentally cracked his tank using zip ties (tightened w/pliers, which slipped and hit the tank).

Finally, if the strainer isn't fitting you could maybe try some glue or something. Is it close, or is it a lot smaller? You may just need a reducer or something if it's quite a bit smaller.

The DBP 75 comes with a lid for the overflow so nothing should be able get into the overflow that would be large enough to require a strainer on the Durso like that.

What Stand are you using with the tank? Are you using a DBP Series I / II or making your own stand?

I almost bought that tank, but the wife went ballistic when I told her I was getting a new tank.

How'd you get that 90degree elbow on the return pipe? Is that threaded so the loc-line screws in, or does the loc-line just pop in? That's like the last part i need to finish up my plumbing and i can't seem to find a piece like that anywhere and no one seems to want to help..

Any ideas?
Thanks.

ZerO,

If you look carefully, you can see that they used a standard PVC 90 degree elbow (painted black?) with a threaded end where they attached an NTP loc-line fitting like this:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-2-np...dular-hose.html

I don't think they make a 90 degree NTP. They do make a 90 degree snap fitting though which you could also use, though I would be concerned if it were ever to leak.

I just bought the 75 but can't seem to fit a sump in the stand
I bought a 20 gallon long but won't fit.

could you please post some pics of this tank? I am thinking of buying one and would love to see some.

I know you didnt ask any questions about this, but make sure you install a gated checkvalve on your return line. Many hardware stores/grainger sell these for not to much money. You will also have to pick up some barbed fittings if you are using tubing.

This will allow you to turn off your pumps for water changes and not have your tank overflow your sumps from water backing down the return.

Also, when your installing that standpipe, do a few tests to make sure your sump can handle the backflow without overflowing.

You need to make sure that it is a gated check valve and not a spring check valve. A gated requires far less pressure to push the water through, like .5 psi or something very small. A spring will take much more PSI to open and cause under performance from your return pump.

Hey, this whole project went on pause for a few months... had some personal crap going on... Will post pics as I begin to set up over the next few weeks.

Please post how quiet the OEM drain kit is. I'm waiting for the GEO drain kit from Premium Aquatic so I won't have a chance the experience the stock drain.