Sweet. Thanks again man. I'll scrapthe check valve and look for the plumbing parts at Lowes. The lowes in Brooklyn kinda sucks though, which is why I'm looking to get stuff online. I'll drop back to sch. 40.

Will an Eheim 1260 be too powerful for a 1" bulkhead using the herbie?

Here will this help at all? Also on the left side a head loss calculator.

http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/drainoverflow-size-calc

sweet...says i need a 1.04" drain size at full pump power. with the head loss, i'll be golden.

only thing is, i need 5/8" pipe. someone help me figure this one out pls. what bulkhead and parts do I need for 5/8" vinyl tubing?

fwiw, i have one of those over-the-wall plastic returns that i could run 5/8" tubing to. might be worth it to just use that?

5/8 inch ID or OD vinyl tubing

ID

I might have to do a 3/4" bulkhead and just use some kind of reducer (maybe I can get a 5/8" - 3/4" hose barb).

You require the 5/8" diameter hose because of the pump output?

yep.

I bet hot water dip of the 5/8" vinyl hose would soften it enough to get over the 3/4" OD of the bulkhead. I mean you're only talking a 1/8" ID expansion on the tube. Probably need some other input on that though.

yeah, that could work. i dunno...what's the benefit of drilling a bulkhead vs. an over-the-wall return?

Less of a chance it will be knocked off or come off with a bulkhead I guess, a certain amount of permanence.

permanence can be a downside too though. and it'd cost me $50 to install that bulkhead.

"Maybe poker's just not your game, Ike(DH). I know: let's have a spelling contest."

yeah maybe. i freakin' hate plumbing.

this is what I have that I'm talking about:

http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/contro...F-IQSCWD-U-TUBE

Ah. It was the least I could do, so I did it. Looks like a good option to me with this.

Beautiful Henry! That's the plan then. HOORAY for saving money!

Damn spanko beat me to it. Yeah just boil some water stick the tube in to soften then jam the hose barb in. 3/4" is biger than 5/8" but not much. If it makes you feel better I've actualy had tubing that after it had been running a while with tank water. Worked loose enough to form salt creap with out clamps. So this will probably be a good thing.

Thanks bitts - but i don't think i'm going o be drilling a return after all. i'll be using an over-the-wall u-tube return and probably extending it a bit with some loc-line.

Beni of the bulkhead is a cleaner looking tank. Can use a lid & have it be a little more secure if there will be jumpers.

How can you not love this plumbiing stuff its the best part. Who cares about fish its all about the setup. But yeah it is spencive. the plan I had for the 29 would have cost more than the mp 10 I picked up (that's why I have it).

Yeah, the cleaner look is attractive, but not for the price. I already built a screen top for the tank so I'll just run the return pipe over it, or cut out a little area for it in the screen.

Also check my old ten x ten did the over the wall thing worked great. Only problem I had where the siphon breaks made bubbles at times(to close to surface). Fix is to tee the line and use a little ro line to the overflow as the siphon break. Dam I really need to get a pic of that up.

yeah, i'd like to see what you rigged up. that would be helpful.

I'm with you on this one.

i think i've got it all worked out now though. i'm gonna krylon the back when the paint gets here then drill the drains (or do I have that backwards?). the return is just over the back - easy peasy.

fts


pics of the diy herbie





drains are 1" controlled by ball valve below.

nice dude.

i need a male x male coupling to make the gate valve work with a 90* pvc elbow.

i mean a nipple (snicker)

Ok d let me see if I understand this right. You want a male nipple.

just ordered everything.

fyi, i love mcmaster-carr.



yes bitts, i want a male nipple. nay, i need a male nipple.

Try coming out the back to a 90* to a hose barb fitting. Then vinyl tubing to the ball valve. From there plumb to sump.

hmm...90* barb would have been good, lol. i wonder if i can cancel the order.

weird, they don't carry a 1" barb elbow.

so apparently marine depot's bulkheads are crappy. anyone know where to get a solid 1" bulkhead?

hmm...i think i'll get a sch. 80 from BRS:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-sch-...d-x-thread.html

I'll need this:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/produc...-drill-bit.html

seems like there's no way those won't hold.

thoughts?

Used bulkheads from the depot on my 29. The gate valve came from amazon. Every thing else come from home depot. Oh the glass for the exo was the glass shop. & silicone was online but can't remember the name.

Don't know if this helps but thought it might be usefull.

Holesaws are a pain. If yo don't get it just right. No more tank. Practice on cheap glass a bunch.

I used the glass-holes holesaw on my last tank and it went fine, so I'm thinking i'll be ok on this one too. if not, i'll just cuss a bunch and go get a new 40B for $40, lol.

I love that sale. Omly thing is it was like 3 days after I picked up the 20long. Duh!

Hey D, any news.

waiting for stuff to ship, man. should be here next wed.

Hey guys been following closely here as I bought the same set up 40b and 20l for sump and plan on drilling.
My question is, is there any real advantage to drilling two outputs to go back into the display or would that be overkill.

Thanks
GG

you mean two returns?

Sorry,that's what I meant.

you could use a SCWD to get more random flow or even a wave effect from your return. or two returns just give you more direct flow in two places instead of one.

Noob question.... SCWD?
Thanks

Also, does $15 a whole sound good for a glass shop to drill? Of course at own risk.

Don't mean to hijack ur thread but u and bitts seam to be the experts

10 - 15 seems normal.

As for returns. My 29 is running 2 with a scwd & a vortec. Problum that I've encountered is that the flow from the returns interferes with the wave action. Thus will be dropping down to a QO 1200 from 2200. Started the tank running eductor nozzles. But have since pulled them out. If I had it to do again would think about more to disperce the flow. Went with 2 for the eductors. Had planned 4 to start but second gessedthe plan oh. Well

Also check out neanderthals 40 thread.

bitts, for the emergency drain, how high up the back should I drill it? I'm guessing the goal is to restrict flow of the main drain to where no air gets sucked into it, but keep the water level in the overflow lower than the emergency drain so that no water flows into it?

How tall is your overflow? Full height of the tank?

If yes, then drill your main drain in the middle, and your emergency drain near the top.

cool. mind explaining why? just for my curiosity.