I've been thinking of doing an LED setup for a 30x30x15, but want something that is unique, customizable, and incorporates spotlighting. This tank has served as a bit of an inspiration...



I would like a similar look, but wanted something that could change with a changing aquascape and would allow me to highlight certain areas/corals. His setup looks like this...but this does not allow any rearrangement as, in typical fashion, the LEDs are all attached to 1 large heatsink.



Credit...http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1669396

In order to make a setup that is adjustable I am thinking about using 9 separate heatsinks (3"x4") each with 4 LEDs mounted with thermal pads. 3 Meanwell Ds would each drive 3 of the small units (12 LEDs per Meanwell). I found a 2" deep shadow box that would function as the fixture. The units would sit on the sheet of acrylic which is the splashguard and bottom of the fixture. I would connect the units with quick disconnects so that the units could be moved around and interchanged with one another. The Meanwells would be controlled/dimmed by a RKE ALC. With this setup, each of the 9 units would have a mix of RB and CW (3-1, 2-2, or 1-3). With this arrangement I would not be able to control all of the whites and all of the blues independently, so the overall color could only be adjusted minimally depending on which units were dimmed (for example, 3 units with mostly RB connected to one Meanwell could be the only units on for dawn/dusk). What this would allow me to do however is to highlight, via dimming or brightening, certain areas of the tank to create a dramatic and changing lightscape. Independent control of all the blues/whites would be ideal, but I don't see a way to make this happen without having a huge mess of wiring between all of the units. Optics would also be utilized to help tweak the color spectrum.

This would be a 36 LED unit, which is definitely fewer LEDs than the average tank this size. But the point of this setup is to spotlight...not to avoid it, and as Evil has told us 100 times the number of LEDs is for coverage, not for intensity

Cooling could be via 1 or 2 fans installed in the fixture and blowing across the heatsinks, or maybe just passive cooling via the heatsinks (would 4 LEDs on a 12 sq inch heatsink need cooling?).

What are your thoughts, criticisms, suggestions?

that definateley sounds interesting, i bet black sand would make the effect even more dramatic

heres a tiny step towards your idea, this is my build
http://bostonreefers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=94849

Interesting build doctaq. Thanks for sharing.

Any others have any input on this? I'm curious as to what kind of heat dissipation I should expect with using small numerous heatsinks rather than 1 large heatsink. Obviously bigger is better, but can I get away with 4 LEDs on a 4" x 3" standard heatsink from heatsinkusa?

Also to those of you who did not make setups that have independently controlled CW and RBs...are you happy with your color temp or do you wish you had more control over the color? I would be trading some ability to control coloration for the ability to have customizable spotlighting...this just necessitates that I choose my overall color based on the number of CW to RBs. If I'm looking for 12-14k I was thinking of about going with 20 CW and 16 RB. What do you think?

i think your color will end up being closer to 10k if you do that. get more blues, they are beautiful

Have you looked into a few of Evil's Par38 bulb?

I would say add a few RED LEDs too. Not for all the time, just a neat look. Aquabacs got a red Par38 on his cadlights, I think you have to custom order it from nanotuners.

Doc, thanks for the input....may go closer to 1:1 ratio then and use optics to slightly adjust the color.

Nemo, thought about those for quite a while. The problem is they just don't work for my setup due to size, and I would also like dimmability. Otherwise, they are probably the closest thing out there to what I am looking at...even moreso than most DIY setups as they don't allow much flexibility other than color control. I've seen several pictures of tanks with them and they are definitely great, they just don't work for me with the location of my tank (4 sides viewable, ceiling is about 20 feet high and don't want to hang).

Keep the input coming.

Thinking of having a similar spotlighting concept with my new 200 gallon DD, although most likely with the LED Par38 bulbs. I'd love to see additional pics of similar spotlit tanks that have served as inspiration for you. Most of the ones I've seen are in Japanese tanks.

beeker is setting up the same tank as you and he is planning on using 12 PAR38s. He hasn't got them yet, but he has a tank thread down in the large tank section.

actually i'll be using 16 par38's when it's all said and done, lol

my tank is 48*36*27 though so much bigger dimensions than yours

i should have the track lighting done this weekend if all goes to plan and then i'll be placing an order for the PAR38's but with the demand i've seen not sure how long they'll take to get to me after i place my order

pics of my aquascape and tank are up in the large tank forum, i'll be putting 8 PAR38's over each side of the tank, 4 bulbs per track, 4 tracks all on moveable sockets

i will have pics when i get this done, the right side will be lit first then i'll slowly be lighting the leftside of the tank since funds will be the only thing holding me back in the next 2 months

I'll shut up now

hah you're fine man, can't wait to get my tank up as well, just got a bluethroat trigger might be picking up 2 yellow tangs tonight so i can start building up my bio-load

Yep, I'm very interested to see how beeker's 200 DD looks with all those PAR38s. I'm planning something a bit different, though; my thought is to do perhaps 4 48" (or even 36") T5s for "base" lighting, then a couple of those IceCap Lunarlight strips or similar as additional supplementation and/or as moonlights, and then highlighting/spotlighting with just a handful (maybe 3-5) of PAR38s with the 40 degree optics. I'd really like for the edges of the tank to be in shadow, and then fairly uneven medium and bright lighting throughout the rest of the tank. (Or at least, I think that's what I want - I haven't seen to many examples of that sort of lighting.) I'm not planning for SPS anywhere in the tank, but I would like to keep softies everywhere and some LPS here and there.

You know what is so cool about reef lighting right now? I can take a few day break from these boards, come back, and there are new and more versatile options. Keep pushing the market Evil...exciting times for lighting right now. The MR16s that you're making Evil, might work very well for my plan. So I was planning on making small modules of LEDs that would be resting on top of the glass bottom of the box fixture and would be freely movable. It sure seems that with the small size of the MR16s I could do the same thing by just using wired sockets...anything that would prevent me from doing this Evil? I know I would lose dimmability compared with a DIY, but would still have the same control as far as having anywhere from 1-? spotlights on at a time by using a controller, and would still have unlimited positioning posibilities.

Mrwilson, as for additional tanks that inspired me...none that come to mind in particular, but some of the tanks on this board lit by the Par38s are also motivating me. Here is a video of the same tank posted above and was taken with only 10CW and 6RB running. Obviously there is room for improvement, but I think the potential can be seen in this video for a tank that is more than just a glowing box of uniform light.
http://s242.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/t...nt=DSCF0409.flv

Beeker, have you looked into "two circuit" track? It's more expensive, but might afford you some additional flexibility rather than the all on/off route. Two circuit track allows you to control two different circuits connected to the same track...you could still do 4 tracks (or less), but you would have twice the control. I'd be interested in your build if you care to post the link.

Exactly the idea; perfectly stated. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with your tank.

If you are not going with sps, be carefull with the 40 degree lenses. Depending on the distance, that could be a lot of light. Also, the Icecap strips are moonlights, and nothing more. You will never see them with the main lights on. Reefbrite strips are a better alternative.


The MR16s certainly have the possibility for lighting your tank the way you want to. With the small size, they are certainly a little more flexible than some options. For positioning, did you see the locline fixture I made for the demo at Reekstock? You could use a concept like that to give you a lot of freedom for positioning.

I want to upgrade to a two circuit track soon. W.A.C. Lighting (sold by Y-Lighting online) has a ton of parts for that kind of setup, and some very attractive track heads.


I think this is a concept that is going to gain a lot of steam here in the near future. The Japanese method of lighting has been popular in concept for a long time. The equipment costs have prohibited it's adoption, until now Everyone that comes over to my house and sees my 40B lit by these PAR38 is floored as to how good and how natural it looks. Then they poop themselves when I tell them I'm lighting 40 gallons with 60W. beeker's tank will be lit by 1.68W/gallon