QUOTE (neanderthalman @ Jan 24 2010, 08:58 AM)

Bad idea, IMO.
When you first start up your RO unit, the water on the "clean" side of the membrane has actually become contaminated by stuff leaching across the membrane. This initial burst is usually taken care of by your DI resin, if you have it, but it's not without cost.
If you keep turning your RO unit on several times a day for a few minutes at a time, you're going to very rapidly burn through your DI resin. If you don't use DI, then you're adding contaminated water to your tank. lose-lose.
For hooking up an RO unit directly, I recommend using a standard ATO with a reservoir. Then, using a pair of floatswitches, a relay, and a solenoid valve, you can create a latching setup that turns on the RO unit when the reservoir is nearly empty, and shuts it off when it is full. That way, you minimize the frequency at which you're turning the RO unit on, saving your DI resin.
You can add a third floatswitch for emergency cutoff, of course.
You didn't read the link info well enough. The redundant electric float switch is not just fot safety (although it helps). I have it on a timer to only run 1 hour per day, that is just enought time for it to come on and fill the sump back to where it is supposed to but not enought time to have to come back on after it swtches the mechanical switch on. Basically it is only turning on once a day and only long enough to deliver just enough top off water and does wear on the membrane and DI resin excessively.
Good point though, they just covered it already.