spencers
Nov 19 2009, 01:31 PM
Hello!
I purchased a 12 gallon CADlights tank from fishtanksdirect.com. Definitely recommend them!
Stand:I followed the advice from
dsn112 and built a stand using a kitchen cabinet. Supplies included an 18x18" tile, a bundle of 3x3 tiles, two 18x18" cut pieces of plywood, and a 12x12x30" cabinet. I finished the stand with some trim around the upper tile/plywood and cut 2.5" holes in the back to allow cords to enter.
Tank is broken down.. Tank:- CADlights 12G nano with built in refugium- CADlights 250 gph included pump- Koralia Nano- Vortech MP10Lighting:- CADlights stock T5 (2) 8W 10,000K and (2) 8W Actinic blues (sitting in a box)- Cree XR-E LEDs (see build list)Live Stuff:- CaribSea AragAlive Oolite sand- Live Rock from SeaLifeIncClean up Crew- 1 skunk cleaner shrimp- 2 nassarius snails- 1 astrea snail- 2 cerith snails- 1 blue leg hermit- 2 red leg hermits- 1 emerald crab Fish- Purple firefish- False percula- Tailspot BlennyCoral/Misc Inverts- 2 Sexy shrimp- Torch coral- Blue Crocea ClamMiscellaneous:- D-D H2Ocean salt- Water from a Millipore Super-Q Plus- API Saltwater & Reef Master test kits- Koralia 1- Hydor FloRefugium- Filter floss and egg crate rack in skimmer chamber
[s]- 50W heater in middle chamber- LED refugium lamp in middle chamber- Chaeto in middle chamber- Autotopoff.com dual switch + Aqualifter01/19/10
RIP!
reeftankguy
Nov 19 2009, 01:39 PM
Cool... I love to see a CAD12g progress...
Your stand should always be equal or exceed the base foot print of your tank... Yours will be top heavy and thus easy to tip over... JMO
spencers
Nov 19 2009, 01:42 PM
QUOTE (reeftankguy @ Nov 19 2009, 12:39 PM)

Cool... I love to see a CAD12g progress...
Your stand should always equal or exceed the base foot print of your tank... Yours will be top heavy and thus
easy to tip over... JMO
Thanks for the info. I think I'll be adding a base similar to the top... 18x18" plywood, topped with some 3" matching tiles.
Here it is, empty.
PaulE915
Nov 19 2009, 01:42 PM
Cool deal, im a noob myself, just started my AquaPod 12 gallon back on the 3rd...I like the rimless look of your tank pretty sweet... anywho goodluck, I had my tank since Oct. 15 before I finally got around to setting it up on the 3rd of november, and its like an addiction now.. LOL... but an enjoyable one!
Have fun!
Nano sapiens
Nov 19 2009, 01:58 PM
I'm seeing so many of these CAD 12g's lately that we may soon need our own forum section

.
Looks like a good start!
reeftankguy
Nov 19 2009, 02:03 PM
QUOTE (Nano sapiens @ Nov 19 2009, 12:58 PM)

I'm seeing so many of these CAD 12g's lately that we may soon need our own forum section

.
Looks like a good start!
Go ahead and start it up... You were one of the first 12g owners...
Truth be known...Yours inspired me to buy mine

QUOTE (spencers @ Nov 19 2009, 12:42 PM)

Thanks for the info. I think I'll be adding a base similar to the top... 18x18" plywood, topped with some 3" matching tiles.
That would work great!
reeftankguy
Nov 19 2009, 03:15 PM
What part of this fine state are you living in Spencer? I'm in Deep East Texas
Nano sapiens
Nov 19 2009, 06:49 PM
QUOTE (spencers @ Nov 19 2009, 02:41 PM)

Same here
That's great to hear from you guys and I hope your tanks work out to exceed your expectations. Would be cool to see a CAD 12g as a TOTM one of these days.
Nice to see that you are keeping the stock lighting. Its not the brightest system at only 32 watts, but heat is minimal and energy costs are low. I'm currently working with some Acropora types, and they seem to be adapting nicely.
Are you planning on using a Hydor oscillator?
dsn112
Nov 19 2009, 06:52 PM
I'm using the stock lighting for now, but might build an led in the near future.
Nano sapiens
Nov 19 2009, 06:55 PM
QUOTE (dsn112 @ Nov 19 2009, 06:52 PM)

I'm using the stock lighting for now, but might build an led in the near future.
LED would be the way I would go if I ever change the lighting system.
spencers
Nov 19 2009, 07:34 PM
QUOTE (Nano sapiens @ Nov 19 2009, 05:49 PM)

Are you planning on using a Hydor oscillator?
No, I don't plan on it. I'm sure the Koralia will do fine for adding flow. Speaking of, which should I go with? I ordered both... Nano or 1?
spencers
Nov 19 2009, 10:52 PM
Update!
I'm almost finished with the stand. I added some trim, added a base, and tiled the base. All that is left to do is drill a hole in the back to allow cords to enter. It's VERY sturdy now.
*Bonus*
I found a fuge light for chaeto. It's a plug-in LED lamp from Home Depot. I used double-sided tape to attach it behind chamber 2. Hopefully it will be powerful enough.
Nano sapiens
Nov 20 2009, 01:01 AM
QUOTE (spencers @ Nov 19 2009, 07:34 PM)

No, I don't plan on it. I'm sure the Koralia will do fine for adding flow. Speaking of, which should I go with? I ordered both... Nano or 1?
I'd imagine the Nano will be plenty and is quite a bit smaller. There's a thread in here about some easy modifications to the Nano if you eve need more flow.
MGDMIRAGE
Nov 20 2009, 02:16 AM
Can't wait to see more, it looks great. That fuge light looks bright enough too
scubasteve2580
Nov 23 2009, 02:00 PM
time to get water and sand in huh
spencers
Nov 23 2009, 04:11 PM
QUOTE (scubasteve2580 @ Nov 23 2009, 01:00 PM)

time to get water and sand in huh
Yep! A big box from Marine Depot just arrived.
scubasteve2580
Nov 23 2009, 10:22 PM
QUOTE (spencers @ Nov 23 2009, 05:11 PM)

Yep! A big box from Marine Depot just arrived.

awsome! so youre from texarkana huh?
spencers
Nov 24 2009, 12:16 AM
*Update!*My box from Marine Depot arrived containing D-D H2Ocean, a Koralia Nano, API test kits, Chemipure, and CaribSea AragAlive Oolite sand.
I went ahead and heated my RO/DI water in a couple of 5 gallon buckets and mixed in the salt with the powerhead. When ready, I then added a couple of inches of water to the tank in order to add the sand. After that, I slowly added the rest of the water.
Before
After
Looks like I need a Mag-float...
I built a shelf for the skimmer chamber out of egg crate, placed a
bunch of filter floss and an included filter sponge (from Cadlights) on top of the shelf. Took the idea from
bps7772000.
Illustration
Also, according to an Instant Ocean hydrometer, specific gravity is 1.030. A little high, no?
*Bonus*I ordered rock from SeaLifeInc.
scubasteve2580
Nov 24 2009, 09:08 AM
QUOTE (spencers @ Nov 24 2009, 01:16 AM)

*Update!*Well, my box from Marine Depot arrived containing D-D H2Ocean, a Koralia Nano, API test kits, Chemipure, and CaribSea AragAlive Oolite sand.
I went ahead and heated the water in a couple of 5 gallon buckets and mixed in the salt with the powerhead. When ready, I then added a couple of inches of water to the tank in order to add the sand. After that, I slowly added the rest of the water. However, I still managed to get a lot of particulate floating around (see picture). The pump and powerhead is on and circulating.

30 minutes after this picture was taken, the tank cleared!
I built a shelf for the skimmer chamber out of egg crate, placed a
bunch of filter floss and an included filter sponge (from Cadlights) on top of the shelf. Illustration below.

Also, according to an Instant Ocean hydrometer, specific gravity is 1.030. A little high, no?
*Bonus*I ordered rock from SeaLifeInc. But I got an email from Ken and it wont be shipped until Nov. 30
(!!!!)So, question: Is it fine to let my tank sit how it is for a week until the rock comes in?
my hydrometer reads 1.0225 and actual s.g. is 1.0265. there are correction pages all over the web for these things. following this thread. those are neat tanks.
Nano sapiens
Nov 24 2009, 05:57 PM
QUOTE (scubasteve2580 @ Nov 24 2009, 10:08 AM)

my hydrometer reads 1.0225 and actual s.g. is 1.0265. there are correction pages all over the web for these things. following this thread. those are neat tanks.
My SeaTest hydrometer was bought in 1989 and I just had it tested against a calibrated Refractometer. Readings were exactly the same as yours. Amazing that after all these years it has retained its proper 'off-ness'
spencers
Nov 24 2009, 06:30 PM
I took some initial tests today, to get used to the API test kit protocol.
81 F
1.028 SG
API salt water master test kit
0 NO2
0 NO3
0.2 NH3
8.2 pH
API reef master test kit
0 PO4
11.0 KH
480 Ca
mbarton2010
Nov 29 2009, 01:37 AM
I'm from Houston TX. Wbu
spencers
Dec 1 2009, 04:42 PM
Rock is here, care of SeaLifeInc.

It sure looks unhappy right now!
Edit:
Changed it up a little
reeftankguy
Dec 1 2009, 04:49 PM
Cool! Nice rock!
Sealife is good stuff from what I have read here on N-R
spencers
Dec 2 2009, 10:11 AM
QUOTE (reeftankguy @ Dec 1 2009, 03:49 PM)

Cool! Nice rock!
Sealife is good stuff from what I have read here on N-R
Smells fresh from the ocean.
By the way, I think you'd be interested to know I've placed an order for a few things:
- 5.375" x 8" Heatsink (from
heatsinkusa.com)
- (2) dimmable 1000ma BuckPucks (from
ledsupply.com)
- (2) MPJA 24v @ 6.5A power supplies (from
mpja.com)
- (6) Cree XR-E Q5 White (from
nanotuners.com)
- (6) Cree XR-E Royal Blue (from
nanotuners.com)
Etc:
- Arctic Silver thermal adhesive (newegg.com)
- 60W solder gun
- 60/40 rosin core 0.04" solder
- White, Red, Black, Blue 22 AWG wire (willyselectronics.com)
I plan on retrofitting this into the cadlights lamp.
reeftankguy
Dec 2 2009, 10:48 AM
QUOTE (spencers @ Dec 2 2009, 09:11 AM)

Smells fresh from the ocean.
By the way, I think you'd be interested to know I've placed an order for a few things:
- 5.375" x 8" Heatsink
- 2 dimmable 1000ma buckpucks
- 2 MPJA 24v @ 6.5A power supplies
- 6 Cree XR-E Q5 White
- 6 Cree XR-E Royal Blue
- Arctic Silver thermal adhesive
- 60W solder gun
I plan on retrofitting this into the cadlights lamp.

Sounds like a good plan... I thought about that too... But I couldn’t figure out a good cosmetic way to get it all in there... The Heat sink is thicker than the fixtures aluminum housing, so you need to figure out a way to add a splash guard and make it look pleasing to the eye... Or go without one...
Looking forward to see what you come up with... And trust me when I say you will be glad you went LED’s
spencers
Dec 2 2009, 09:31 PM
Did a ~25% water change today. On second thought, I probably should NOT have done this.
Params according to the API SW kit:
pH: 7.8
Ammonia: 2.0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 5.0 ppm
Temp: 78.1 F
Anyway, I'll leave it alone and let it cycle, only performing weekly water tests.
dsn112
Dec 3 2009, 02:50 PM
Nice, good move on the leds. They look sick when done!
baylisc
Dec 4 2009, 09:49 AM
Spencers, I think we need some more pictures!
Your tank is coming along great, I cant wait to see how the LED system looks.
Thanks for pointing me to your thread, im thinking I should move my build thread over here. alot more CAD folks on this forum.
any diatoms yet?
spencers
Dec 4 2009, 09:58 AM
Thanks! No diatoms yet.
However, I have a HUGE PROBLEM. I switched the Koralia Nano to the opposite side of the tank. Maybe not such a good idea.....
I came home yesterday to an overflowing display and almost nothing in the fuge chambers. Luckily, the acrylic/glass that separates the display & fuge is a little shorter than the overall tank height, and it was dumping back in the fuge instead of flooding my apartment. I'm lucky the heater didn't shatter.
This morning when I woke up, the tank was on its way of doing it again. I fluffed up the polyfill and moved the sponge a little higher up in the first chamber. We'll see what happens this evening. If so, I'm moving the K-nano back to the other side. On the bright side, I'm glad I'm catching all this before I put any livestock in the tank.
baylisc
Dec 4 2009, 11:09 AM
That souds really odd Spencers,
Where on the other side did you put the Koraila? I have my MP10 right underneath the surface skimmer and i have never had any issues like the one you describe.
*Edit*
I thought about this some more. I did have a similar issue but not as extreeme as you describe. How much filter floss/pad do you have packed into chamber 1? also how pack down is your chemipure? At first i had my chemipure on the bottum of chamber one, it was packed up against the outflow to chamber 2 and was making the water table in the display rise to a higher level then expected. also maybe point the return locline twords the surface to help "push" the water through the surface skimmer? you could also just turn off the Koralia for a while and see if you still have the issue. good luck and let us know
spencers
Dec 4 2009, 02:10 PM
QUOTE (baylisc @ Dec 4 2009, 10:09 AM)

That souds really odd Spencers,
Where on the other side did you put the Koraila? I have my MP10 right underneath the surface skimmer and i have never had any issues like the one you describe.
*Edit*
I thought about this some more. I did have a similar issue but not as extreeme as you describe. How much filter floss/pad do you have packed into chamber 1? also how pack down is your chemipure? At first i had my chemipure on the bottum of chamber one, it was packed up against the outflow to chamber 2 and was making the water table in the display rise to a higher level then expected. also maybe point the return locline twords the surface to help "push" the water through the surface skimmer? you could also just turn off the Koralia for a while and see if you still have the issue. good luck and let us know
I moved the Koralia here:

I have a rather large amount of filter floss in chamber 1. Topped with a filter pad that originally came with the tank. I'm not running chemipure right now (waiting until end of cycle).
Now that I remember, when I got home yesterday, the first thing I did was pull out that filter pad. Surprisingly, the water immediately started flowing back into the fuge through the surface skimmer. Perhaps the filter pad is culprit and becomes clogged. But, remember this started occurring again overnight... Perhaps it becomes clogged
very easily?
Nano sapiens
Dec 4 2009, 02:31 PM
A good volume of tightly packed floss can be quite restricting, so I can see this happening. As an alternative...
Instead of floss in the 'fuge I use a fine-micron filter sock once a week attached to the pump outlet when I do my weekly water change. A turkey baster used all over the tank and 'fuge gets the detritus whipped up in suspension and the pump kicks it into the sock. Some detritus also gets removed via the WC. Once every month or two I also run a small outside filter packed with floss at the same time as the sock and WC and let it run for a few hours.
Personally, I like to keep my 'fuge area as free flowing as possible to avoid potential mishaps.
reeftankguy
Dec 4 2009, 03:22 PM
You need to remove the Sponge... Build a media rack... Use only the floss... I use a big ball of it on top of my
rack with Purigen on one stage and Chemipure Elite on the the other stage...
spencers
Dec 4 2009, 06:57 PM
QUOTE (reeftankguy @ Dec 4 2009, 02:22 PM)

You need to remove the Sponge... Build a media rack... Use only the floss... I use a big ball of it on top of my
rack with Purigen on one stage and Chemipure Elite on the the other stage...
Well, luckily when I came home, the display wasn't flooded again. However, I still removed the sponge. I already have half a rack going, might as well finish it off! Thanks for the suggestions.
Also added some chaeto to the middle chamber.
Updated Illustration:

Starting to receive pieces for the LED build... But the LEDs aren't labeled. I have no clue how to tell them apart!
Teaser:
reeftankguy
Dec 4 2009, 07:10 PM
QUOTE (spencers @ Dec 4 2009, 05:57 PM)

Well, luckily when I came home, the display wasn't flooded again. However, I still removed the sponge. I already have half a rack going, might as well finish it off! Thanks for the suggestions.
Also added some chaeto to the middle chamber.
Starting to receive pieces for the LED build... But the LEDs aren't labeled. I have no clue how to tell them apart!
Teaser:

Cool... Bags were not labeled?
The cool whites usually have a sticker on the the back with 107 on it... Other than that you will have to fire one up to get the colors... They usually dont have any markings on the star or LED
spencers
Dec 5 2009, 10:19 PM
QUOTE (reeftankguy @ Dec 4 2009, 06:10 PM)

Cool... Bags were not labeled?
The cool whites usually have a sticker on the the back with 107 on it... Other than that you will have to fire one up to get the colors... They usually dont have any markings on the star or LED
Bags weren't labeled. Nothing etched or written on them.
Edit: figured it out.
QUOTE (evilc66 @ Nov 23 2009, 09:40 PM)

Yellow dies are white, silver dies are blue.
On a lighter note, I set up my autotopoff.com dual switch today. Works great. It's powered by an Aqualifter.

Dual floats set up in separate fuge chambers. Tubing temporarily secured by a clip.

Aqualifter and water container.
spencers
Dec 6 2009, 10:34 PM
*Water tests*
Params according to the API SW kit:
pH: 7.8
Ammonia: 8 ppm (maxed out!)
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 10 ppm
Temp: 78.7 F
I'd assume this is my ammonia spike...
spencers
Dec 9 2009, 09:34 PM
*More Water tests*
Params according to the API SW kit:pH: 8
Ammonia: 8 ppm (maxed out!)
Nitrite: 0.5 ppm
Nitrate: 10 ppm
Temp: 81.6 F (hmm..)
Humming along slowly.
You be the judge:

Lastly, I'll leave you with these updated pictures:
[

scubasteve2580
Dec 11 2009, 04:58 PM
looken good so far.. although.. that is a hella-sick ammonia reading. lol should make for a healthy cycle
spencers
Dec 13 2009, 05:34 PM
QUOTE (scubasteve2580 @ Dec 11 2009, 03:58 PM)

looken good so far.. although.. that is a hella-sick ammonia reading. lol should make for a healthy cycle
Yep. It's a wicked heavy cycle. I had these small green hair-like algae growing on the glass. Took the mag-clean to them. Also, the sand is starting to get a little brown...
Here's todays water test results:
pH: 7.8
Ammonia: 8 ppm (maxed out!)
Nitrite: 5 ppm (maxed out!)
Nitrate: EDIT: 20 ppm
SG: 1.028
Temp: 78.7 F
I'll keep letting the tank do its thing.
scubasteve2580
Dec 13 2009, 06:15 PM
QUOTE (spencers @ Dec 13 2009, 06:34 PM)

Yep. It's a wicked heavy cycle. I had these small green hair-like algae growing on the glass. Took the mag-clean to them. Also, the sand is starting to get a little brown... Here's todays readings:
pH: 7.8
Ammonia: 8 ppm (maxed out!)
Nitrite: 5 ppm (maxed out!)
Nitrate: 160 ppm (maxed out!)
SG: 1.028
Temp: 78.7 F
Guess I'll keep letting the tank do its thing. These maxed out test results really scare me though. Water change?? I have water ready.
no not yet. still have nitrite.. yeah youll have a hell of bio filter before its said and done.. when nitrite hits 0 do a water change. did you though something in to start the cycle or is that all die off?
dsn112
Dec 13 2009, 06:49 PM
holy crap dude that is crazy. I have never seen tests that high. Are you sure there isn't something wrong with the kits? Id bring some water to your lfs and have them test it for you also.
spencers
Dec 13 2009, 08:17 PM
Nitrates are actually 10-20 ppm.
Forgot to shake the tube after adding the first solution. (Idiot alert!)
Re-tested twice, for good measure.
spencers
Dec 17 2009, 04:13 PM
LEDs came in! Big thanks to Ian (Schmoopy)!
(
wiring diagram).
Time to get it into the fixture!
Will do some water tests later today. Stay tuned!
scubasteve2580
Dec 17 2009, 04:15 PM
sweeeeeet
dsn112
Dec 17 2009, 05:26 PM
nice dude, im lovin my tank under leds, you will too
spencers
Dec 18 2009, 02:29 AM
It's till a work in progress, but here's some pictures of the semi-finished LED project.
Four 30mm fans are located at each corner. Two pull air out, two push air in.
Sorry I don't have many pictures of the install itself. They'll come at a later date.


VIDEO:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUDwZIU3QDIDisclaimer: I was shaking the tank a little to show off the shimmering effect the LEDs give.
I still need to wire up some switches and drill holes for the dimming pots. Also need to find some outlet timers that have a grounded plug, and find some better brackets.
reeftankguy
Dec 18 2009, 09:05 AM
Looks good!
Lets see more pic's of your mod to the stock fixture...
shmoopy
Dec 18 2009, 12:45 PM
Wow, it fits in there perfectly. Look great!
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