I am going to try to setup my ATO float in my Picotope over the weekend and have a few questions for those that have already done so. I have the Aquahub/Chicagosensor float switch (the tiny one), a strip of mold-a-holder, and the rather oversized snailguard all from aquahub.com. First off, I will probably try to source out a smaller snailguard, even if I hafta buy a stick of epoxy-putty, the plastic bottle one from aquahub is just too big really.
2nd, how have all ya'll got yours mounted on the tank, I dunked the float in the tank and the threaded part sticks a good bit above the rim, I have a few ideas on how to mold the moldaholder strip to work, but any tips would seriously help.
3rd, without actually having it wired up, how did you adjust the float height to where it came on/shut off at the right level? My waterline is precisely 5/16" below the rim of the tank, and the spec sheet on the float switch was not a whole lot of help regarding where to set it.
I've already got an airpump I plan to use to pressurize a plastic jug of topoff water, and old Tetra Deepwater pump I got maybe 10 years ago, still works great and pretty darn quiet.
I have been getting the green-capped RO water from walmart lately for topoffs, but they are the kind that have the plastic tab you rip off the cap to unseal them, once that tab is ripped off, can the cap hold the air-pressure? Should I just get a dedicated jug with screw-on cap and refill as needed?
I know El Fab mentioned a need to go with rigid tubing to get to the bottom of his jugs, as the hose was curling up, what size should I get, and where can I get some (other than a LFS, none around here sell it).
Providing an admittedly poor drawing of my moldaholder shaping idea. The tank is dark blue, water light blue, float is the float looking thingy with the "wires" at the end, and the moldaholder is thick black line with the float hanging on the end.

Totally not to scale, but gives my idea a visual representation. Would this be workable?