Full Version: PH Buffer Supplement
About a week ago I went to my LFS and had a water sample performed.....mind you I have not checked my water level in over a year. I do water changes weekly, and probably do too much since my PH level was apparently non-existent. The LFS told me to buy some PH Buffer, which I did and days later my Dimond Goby died and then two days later my Orchid beauty died. I have one fish left.....but my other major concern is that my corals do not look good. i did a 4 gallon water change this morning (I have a 34 gallon Solana). Other than water changes does any one KNOW what I should do?
maybe you brought the ph up too fast. take your time with these kind of changes. you should get a test and test daily until you get it in check.
QUOTE (nano427 @ Nov 14 2009, 01:52 PM) 
maybe you brought the ph up too fast. take your time with these kind of changes. you should get a test and test daily until you get it in check.
The supplement..says you can't OD. I may not have mixed the first batch well enough because it was a bit cloudy, but it never said to ensure you mix well. My pump and skimmer look pretty chalky from the stuff.
QUOTE (Grossy @ Nov 14 2009, 01:37 PM)
About a week ago I went to my LFS and had a water sample performed.....mind you I have not checked my water level in over a year. I do water changes weekly, and probably do too much since my PH level was apparently non-existent. The LFS told me to buy some PH Buffer, which I did and days later my Dimond Goby died and then two days later my Orchid beauty died. I have one fish left.....but my other major concern is that my corals do not look good. i did a 4 gallon water change this morning (I have a 34 gallon Solana). Other than water changes does any one KNOW what I should do?
A pH level cannot be nonexistent. What was the value?
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/subject/chemistry.php
Whats was you PH before and after?
You need to spread the dosing out if its going to make a huge change. What are the rest of your readings like?
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/subject/chemistry.php
Whats was you PH before and after?
You need to spread the dosing out if its going to make a huge change. What are the rest of your readings like?
QUOTE (Trolldoll @ Nov 14 2009, 03:51 PM)
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/subject/chemistry.php
Whats was you PH before and after?
You need to spread the dosing out if its going to make a huge change. What are the rest of your readings like?
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/subject/chemistry.php
Whats was you PH before and after?
You need to spread the dosing out if its going to make a huge change. What are the rest of your readings like?
The rest of the pameters are fine......my corals just look like they are swelling up and pushing their mouths out. Also, it looks as though whatever happened wiped out my Star Galaxia. My crabs and snail are barely moving. I don't know I guess i hope things hang on and I just continue to do 3-4 gallon water changes each week.
My pumps look like they've been submerged in concrete, whats the best/safest way to clean equipment?
Stop depending on your LFS for testing and stop dosing.
You still haven't given the actual pH values, or any value for that matter. You water parameters must not be "fine" if fish and corals are dying.
You need to get your own test kits. The API saltwater master kit is one option. Normally I would recommend buying it online, but it sounds like you need to test as soon as possible.
You still haven't given the actual pH values, or any value for that matter. You water parameters must not be "fine" if fish and corals are dying.
You need to get your own test kits. The API saltwater master kit is one option. Normally I would recommend buying it online, but it sounds like you need to test as soon as possible.
[quote name='Grossy' date='Nov 14 2009, 05:29 PM' post='2525123']
The rest of the pameters are fine......my corals just look like they are swelling up and pushing their mouths out. Also, it looks as though whatever happened wiped out my Star Galaxia. My crabs and snail are barely moving. I don't know I guess i hope things hang on and I just continue to do 3-4 gallon water changes each week.
My pumps look like they've been submerged in concrete, whats the best/safest way to clean equipment?
[/quo
I'm just goin gto keep doing a few gallons of water changes every few days, and see if I can save the brain, acropora, and I'm hoping my Kokoworm is hiding.
The rest of the pameters are fine......my corals just look like they are swelling up and pushing their mouths out. Also, it looks as though whatever happened wiped out my Star Galaxia. My crabs and snail are barely moving. I don't know I guess i hope things hang on and I just continue to do 3-4 gallon water changes each week.
My pumps look like they've been submerged in concrete, whats the best/safest way to clean equipment?
[/quo
I'm just goin gto keep doing a few gallons of water changes every few days, and see if I can save the brain, acropora, and I'm hoping my Kokoworm is hiding.
Never add buffer unless you're doing it to raise or balance your alk/calc.
NEVER
preface: 'buffer' is essentially 'alk' that you test for.
You've probably now overloaded your system with alk and your calc (they're connected) is now nonexistent because it's precipitating out (the cloudiness) since your alk is so high and that's getting on all your stuff. Precipitating takes all the extra #### out there and drops your ph to the curb, so your crap died. Once that was over you've got still high alk, no calc to balance and is now leading to more drastic fluctuations in your ph which is why your stuff that is left isn't happy (coupled with very very high alk, low calc that you have).
Just an FYI directly after a precipitating event you can drip (very very ultra slowly) vinegar in to your tank to help balance your system and hopefully save a few critters before they die (only do this if you have a ph meter).
Water changes. Stop with the buffer. Soak your pumps in vinegar solution for a while to disolve build up.
The best thing you can do for your ph is ensure your alk and calc are in balance and at appropriate levels.
ph is a measure of oxygen/CO2 in the water. 7.6-7.8ph isn't going to hurt a thing. You just have an airtight house. Ensure you have good water agitation somewhere, your fish are not gasping for breath (jumping at the top) and that your salinity levels are nominal. If all that is good, you can pretty much forget about ever measuring for PH or that it even matters.
NEVER
preface: 'buffer' is essentially 'alk' that you test for.
You've probably now overloaded your system with alk and your calc (they're connected) is now nonexistent because it's precipitating out (the cloudiness) since your alk is so high and that's getting on all your stuff. Precipitating takes all the extra #### out there and drops your ph to the curb, so your crap died. Once that was over you've got still high alk, no calc to balance and is now leading to more drastic fluctuations in your ph which is why your stuff that is left isn't happy (coupled with very very high alk, low calc that you have).
Just an FYI directly after a precipitating event you can drip (very very ultra slowly) vinegar in to your tank to help balance your system and hopefully save a few critters before they die (only do this if you have a ph meter).
Water changes. Stop with the buffer. Soak your pumps in vinegar solution for a while to disolve build up.
The best thing you can do for your ph is ensure your alk and calc are in balance and at appropriate levels.
ph is a measure of oxygen/CO2 in the water. 7.6-7.8ph isn't going to hurt a thing. You just have an airtight house. Ensure you have good water agitation somewhere, your fish are not gasping for breath (jumping at the top) and that your salinity levels are nominal. If all that is good, you can pretty much forget about ever measuring for PH or that it even matters.
QUOTE (Gwoardnog @ Nov 18 2009, 10:59 AM)
Never add buffer unless you're doing it to raise or balance your alk/calc.
NEVER
preface: 'buffer' is essentially 'alk' that you test for.
You've probably now overloaded your system with alk and your calc (they're connected) is now nonexistent because it's precipitating out (the cloudiness) since your alk is so high and that's getting on all your stuff. This is leading to more drastic fluctuations in your ph which is why your stuff isn't happy (coupled with very very high alk, low calc that you have).
Water changes. Stop with the buffer. Soak your pumps in vinegar solution for a while to disolve build up.
The best thing you can do for your ph is ensure your alk and calc are in balance and at appropriate levels.
ph is a measure of oxygen/CO2 in the water. 7.6-7.8ph isn't going to hurt a thing. You just have an airtight house.
NEVER
preface: 'buffer' is essentially 'alk' that you test for.
You've probably now overloaded your system with alk and your calc (they're connected) is now nonexistent because it's precipitating out (the cloudiness) since your alk is so high and that's getting on all your stuff. This is leading to more drastic fluctuations in your ph which is why your stuff isn't happy (coupled with very very high alk, low calc that you have).
Water changes. Stop with the buffer. Soak your pumps in vinegar solution for a while to disolve build up.
The best thing you can do for your ph is ensure your alk and calc are in balance and at appropriate levels.
ph is a measure of oxygen/CO2 in the water. 7.6-7.8ph isn't going to hurt a thing. You just have an airtight house.
100% this.
I absolutely hate, 100% despise "pH buffer." Back when I cared, I had to try so hard to convince the noobs not to use it. Futile.
This is not meant to pile on the abuse to you. Its meant to be a warning to others who are reading this thread and contemplating the same thing you did.
*DO NOT USE pH BUFFER* *DO NOT CHASE PARAMETERS* *DO NOT ADD THINGS WITHOUT TESTING*
Again I am emphasizing that because its a very common trap that people fall into.
pH buffer is essentially some form of alkali solution and can cause rapid uncontrolled spikes in pH and the statement that you can't overdo it is total bunk.
If your pH is too low then it means that your tank is too acidic and needs to swing back to more base. If you raise pH too fast and too high you can "burn" your animals and corals just like you can by having it too low. This is commonly seen when someone pours CaCO3 directly into the tank and there is a white cloud. This cloud is an area of very high pH and will cause alkalinity burns to anything it touches.
Chasing parameters means that you are trying to dial something in very quickly and then trying to keep it there by adding different regents. What happens is you end up setting up a roller coaster type wave of high and low values that you chase after trying to hit that 'sweet spot'
Dosing without testing means that if you are going to put *ANYTHING* into your water other than food for the fish, RO/DI fresh (not salt) top off water, and water changes then you need to have a test kit to see what the present values of it are before you add more of it. Without testing you are essentially adding regents blindly.
The most cost effective and accurate for the money test kits on the market are the API Master Salt and Master Reef test kits. These kits get you 95% of where you need to be in terms of testing things in your tank:
Ammonia
Nitrites
Nitrates
Phosphates
Calcium
Alkalinity
pH
The other 5% would be for things like Mg and any other trace elements (which you should not be adding because you should get them from the water changes you are doing). Mg is important because it helps keep things like Ca and CaCO3 stable in the system. Of the test kits out there that I have experience with the easiest to use and most bang for the buck is the Salifert one. Its a PITA to use but its pretty accurate.
You are shooting for
Ca 380-420
dKH 8-10
Mg 1250-1450
Bulk Reef Supply, a sponsor here, is an excellent source for the solutions you want to be dosing.
If you are wanting to get your pH where you want it there are only two methods that make sense and are safe. They are water change and/or *GRADUAL*l dosing of CaCO3 (Calcium Carbonate) and possibly Mg (Magnesium).
DO NOT ADD ANYTHING OTHER THAN REPLACEMENT WATER AS A PART OF WATER CHANGES WITHOUT TESTING.
*DO NOT USE pH BUFFER* *DO NOT CHASE PARAMETERS* *DO NOT ADD THINGS WITHOUT TESTING*
Again I am emphasizing that because its a very common trap that people fall into.
pH buffer is essentially some form of alkali solution and can cause rapid uncontrolled spikes in pH and the statement that you can't overdo it is total bunk.
If your pH is too low then it means that your tank is too acidic and needs to swing back to more base. If you raise pH too fast and too high you can "burn" your animals and corals just like you can by having it too low. This is commonly seen when someone pours CaCO3 directly into the tank and there is a white cloud. This cloud is an area of very high pH and will cause alkalinity burns to anything it touches.
Chasing parameters means that you are trying to dial something in very quickly and then trying to keep it there by adding different regents. What happens is you end up setting up a roller coaster type wave of high and low values that you chase after trying to hit that 'sweet spot'
Dosing without testing means that if you are going to put *ANYTHING* into your water other than food for the fish, RO/DI fresh (not salt) top off water, and water changes then you need to have a test kit to see what the present values of it are before you add more of it. Without testing you are essentially adding regents blindly.
The most cost effective and accurate for the money test kits on the market are the API Master Salt and Master Reef test kits. These kits get you 95% of where you need to be in terms of testing things in your tank:
Ammonia
Nitrites
Nitrates
Phosphates
Calcium
Alkalinity
pH
The other 5% would be for things like Mg and any other trace elements (which you should not be adding because you should get them from the water changes you are doing). Mg is important because it helps keep things like Ca and CaCO3 stable in the system. Of the test kits out there that I have experience with the easiest to use and most bang for the buck is the Salifert one. Its a PITA to use but its pretty accurate.
You are shooting for
Ca 380-420
dKH 8-10
Mg 1250-1450
Bulk Reef Supply, a sponsor here, is an excellent source for the solutions you want to be dosing.
If you are wanting to get your pH where you want it there are only two methods that make sense and are safe. They are water change and/or *GRADUAL*l dosing of CaCO3 (Calcium Carbonate) and possibly Mg (Magnesium).
DO NOT ADD ANYTHING OTHER THAN REPLACEMENT WATER AS A PART OF WATER CHANGES WITHOUT TESTING.
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