You're right, it's a good idea to let it acclimate to your tank first before breaking it up, but yeah, it's really just as simple as grabbing it and snapping it. Breaking it up has a few advantages: more area on the rock or plug to grow a base from, more branching growth from the break points, the stress may cause a growth spurt, and if one stalk dies you'd still have two more.

It can take weeks or months for an SPS to get its color back after being fragged. Some of mine are still brown from the move several months ago. So don't worry about that

Tank is looking good, best of luck with the SPS!

How is the overflow working out with the modification you did? Sill silent?

Mike

Well, my mp10 woke me up at like 4am making a clicking/grinding sound. It wasn't anything like the typical mp10 whirring that you get at 100% power (and I was running Night Mode (Reef Crest) at the time, which is pretty quiet).

I tried to turn it off and turn it back on, I tried to move it around, but it wasn't helping. So, I ended up just turning it off until this morning. I took the wet side out, rinsed it under some tap water and spun the propeller manually a little bit, then put it back in. that actually appears to have fixed it, at least for now. i am still going to call ecotech to see if they have any suggestions in the meantime, but this is kind of frustrating.

i am so tired of this thing waking me up in the middle of the night. it seems like it's at least once a week, for one reason or another.



thanks Mike!

re: the overflow, which mod are you referring to? if you are referring to replacing the durso, i actually never had to do that because when I put the Tunze return pump into the system, it silenced the overflow, the drain and the return line all at once.

my overflow is definitely silent now, for better or for worse. now that it's not making constant racket, smaller things (fish splashing, etc.) wake me up all the time.



B, I feel like this is the direction I am going to go (breaking up the slimer stick), but how long do you think I should wait before doing that, acclimation-period wise?

I think one or two weeks should be fine, but use your judgment. If it looks like it's struggling, hold off. The longer the better

thanks B.

re: "struggling," I posted another thread about a small white area (about 2 polyps total) on the bottom of the slimer. basically, it's a very small area, hasn't noticeably gotten worse over the past 36 hours. my Mg was at 1000, which caused my Ca to sink to as low as 360 (i managed to get it up to 390), and my alk had fallen to 7.5dkh (but that's probably about as low as it went).

So, I did a 10% water change last night, did a quarter dose of calcium and a full dose of alk 2-part. i also added the max allowable dosage of seachem Mg, and I'll do the same thing again tonight (related note: i need to buy a Mg test kit -- I don't know how Mg has dropped so low despite my regular water changes. where is it going??).

I fear STN, but it's also very possible that the area that's turned white has come into contact with the coral fix putty, or that it was crushed while i was mounting the frag. i also wonder if maybe it's just where it's getting ready to grow/encrust (this might be wishful thinking)? but, the thing that gets me is that it hasn't apparently gotten worse, and i don't see any signs of the tissue falling off, and the rest of the frag seems fine.

thoughts? anyone else want to chime in?

Don't think it's STN, probably just chemical stress from the putty like you said. You definitely need to get your basic three in line though before the SPS can do well . By the way, don't use Salifert for Alk, they are inaccurate. Elos or Lamotte are good for that measurement.

Your Mg is probably low because the salt mix you're using is low. I use brightwell but still need to add two teaspoons of dry Mg per 5g water change bucket to keep my levels stable. Also, I do a 15% change weekly.

i'm using Elos for both Ca and Alk. Was planning to buy an Elos Mg test kit, until: this.

i saw your Brightwell Magnesion-P review on MD! I still might have to buy that, despite the above link.

I don't think the Brightwell Mg is really the best, though. Brightwell's basic chemistry skills suck, and so do a lot of their products. I just bought that because I needed to add a few bucks to my order to get the free shipping. I may or not stick to their salt when this bucket runs out. For Mg I'd probably use the BRS stuff.

you think so? one of the LFSs around here is a big fan, so I decided to try them out for the 2-part, since it seemed reasonably priced and I was familiar with the name.

what about the chemistry sucks? Just for the Mg, or all Brightwell products? just curious to hear what about it makes it bad.

if the Mg in their salt mix needs to be supplemented, that seems problematic to me. i personally just use whatever salt my LFS sells pre-mixed (as i still haven't invested in an RODI system), but I do remember hearing something about the Mg in one of them running a little low in the mix.

The LFS loves them because they have pretty labels and sell well.

For example, my tub of dry Mg lists "Guaranteed Analysis (by weight)" as 43% Magnesium. It also lists the only two ingredients as anhydrous Mg Sulfate and Mg Chloride. Pure MgSO4 is about 20% Mg by weight, and MgCl2 is somewhere in that range as well (can't find the exact figure right now- you can look it up though). Therefore, it is impossible for a combination of these two anhydrous salts to be 40% Mg by weight. Perhaps he added them, but that's not how it works (it is supposed to be a weighted average).

Also, on the brightwell salt container there are incorrect significant digits. For example, the Ca ion concentration is claimed to be 413.000 ppm in natural seawater and 413.000 in his salt. In fact there are three decimal places used for each ion concentration. This use of sig figs is wrong.

These are both elementary mistakes that any first semester chemistry student would be marked off for, and any student past a first semester course would simply not make. I'd expect more from a real "marine biologist." Randy over on RC also dislikes their products and his scientific thoughts on the matter (there are many posted if you search in the chem forum) are part of what led me to dislike the line of products.

If I remember correctly the brightwell salt I have mixes to about 1150 Mg. Not terrible, but I bring it up to about 1350 before changing the water. I also need to add calcium, as the mixes water comes out to about 380. And yes, this is with a salinity solution calibrated refractometer reading of 35 ppt.

so, i went out to my car this morning to notice that some jerk stole the hood emblem off my car. at least the hood will now match the wheel where the emblem was also stolen. also had GPS/satellite radio stolen out of my car last year about this time. I LIVE IN THE F'ING SUBURBS FOR CRYING OUT LOUD. called the dealership, it is $45 to replace the hood emblem, and $15-20 to replace the wheel one.

oh well. when it rains, it pours.



interesting stuff - i'll have to read up on that water chemistry forum.

that's disappointing about the salt -- 380 for Ca and 1150 for Mg are both too low for a mix. frankly, if they are saying that the concentration is 413(.000, this is lame, probably for marketing) but it's actually 380, they have a serious potential legal problem there. because that's not even close.

Sounds similar to the pricing for my bmw. Ridiculous.
Can't go wrong with buying off ebay....

haha -- well, that would make sense -- '99 323i here. love the car, hate the cost of maintenance. i go back and forth as to whether i'd buy another. but, mine is still going along pretty well, so i don't think about it much.



that's the plan, at this point. i wonder if i'll be buying the one that was stolen off mine!

I read a bunch of his posts about Brightwell products yesterday -- holy crap, you aren't kidding. this guy posts in every reef chemistry thread that mentions Brightwell, it seems! sounds like a personal vendetta, almost. i say almost, because i think his analysis makes a lot of sense in some places.

that being said, i think the most valuable thing you get from his diatribes is the 2 part recipe. I agree with you that Bulk Reef Supply seems to have the best offering here. I could buy 2L of Reef Code A/B for $25+shipping from Marine Depot... or I could buy 3-4 gal. of BRS calc/alk + 1 gal. of Mg + 3 mixing jugs + measuring cup + pump dispensers from BRS for $41 + shipping (or i could skip the jugs and pay $11 plus shipping for pre-meausred pouches to make 1gal. of calc/alk + 20oz of Mg).

it really kind of makes you think, though -- where is the value in the Brightwell 2-part (or any other brand's 2-part for that matter)? that it's pre-mixed? am i missing something here?

I'm also thinking about the replacing the stock CAD return pump with the Tunze 1073.020. One question. Return BH is 1/2", but Tunze has 3/4" connections. Was it easy to convert Tunze to connect to 1/2" tubing (PVC parts you can find at HD or Lowe's)?

Great thread and great looking tank. Thanks for posting your progress - info has been very helpful.

i haven't measured anything to be sure, but the tubing that came with my cad was 3/4". it fits snug-ly to the return bulkhead, and i use a hose clamp to hold it in place. that runs down to a 3/4" gate valve (barb fittings on both sides), and after that valve, i continue with the same 3/4" tubing down to the tunze. i use hose clamps at each side of the gate valve and on the tunze barb.

that's all i have. haven't had any issues. it was really pretty "plug and play."

Thanks for the info - I like the barbed gate value idea. Do you have a photo of it?

I have an older model CAD 39g Pro, so several things are different. I just looked at your pictures on pg 1, and it's different tubing. Yours is clear, while mine is green (it's smaller than 3/4", but bigger than 5/8").

Do you remember whether the return connection to Tunze can be unscrewed? I'm thinking I could replace with a custom 1/2" PVC connection.

at the moment, i don't believe i have a close-up picture of this, but i can take one next time i'm taking pictures (probably in the next couple of days). it's pretty simple though -- you just get a threaded connection gate valve, and then the hardware store (I go to Lowe's) sells threaded barbs that you tape with teflon tape and then screw into the gate valve. then the hose just slides right over the barb, and you clamp it in place with a hose clamp.



as i recall, i had to heat my tubing up with a hair dryer and really force the thing on there to make it fit on the return bulkhead connection that came with my Cad. maybe doing that will help you get the 3/4" to work with the tubing you already have. if not, it's easy to find 3/4" tubing at Lowe's/Home Depot.



yes, it can. it comes with two (seemingly) identical connections.

I just placed my order for a Tunze 1073.020! I wanted a smaller, quieter and cooler pump for the CAD, and you're thread made it simple to pick one! Thanks!

No rush on the photos - whenever you have time. Agree, Lowe's seems best for those types of parts.

I was thinking either hairdryer or hot water to soften up the tubes to fit on connections. I'm wondering if the stock LifeTech pump is a 3/4" connection - it's definitely not 1/2"!

glad to help! i love the pump. definitely good stuff, so long as you have supplemental flow for the display tank.



i figure the LifeTech stock pump must be 3/4". i don't think i had any trouble fitting it to the stock tubing.

Added a Tunze 6025 to the left-rear side of the tank last night for some extra water movement. the undertow from my mp10 has been taking all the sand from the front of the tank and moving it to the back. doesn't create a sandstorm -- just pulls it back there gradually. i need to do a "top off" on my DSB, so maybe i'll take some of the sand out of the display and put it into the DSB, and then add a little bit of courser grain sand to the display to cut down on that.

Re: SPS, both the digitata and the slimer are doing well. digitata is showing very nice polyp extension. slimer had a small white spot on it near the base, but that actually seems to be improving, not worsening. so, that's good.

as of 2/1, my water is testing at:

Ca 450ppm
Alk 8dkh
Mg: 1500
Salinity: 1.026
Nitrate: 0
Phosphate: 0

Pic updates coming soon.

new pic of my sump (i just cleaned out my skimmer collection cup for the first time since installing!). chaeto is out the wazoo.


New Tunze 6025 installed on my back wall!


injury from Tunze magnet, over a week after it happened. blood blister is healing nicely, at least! unfrigginbelievable how strong that magnet is. i had to pry it apart with kitchen knives to get them apart (after the first mishap, i got a little gunshy):


and another jawfish picture:

nice live rock they got great coralline spread. HOw hard is your jawfish to keep I've been thinking of getting one myself?

I'm sorry that I laughed after I read this

I have a Tunze 9002 skimmer in one of my tanks and have done the same thing. Those magnets are crazy strong. I am ashamed to admit that I actually damaged myself twice with it. Good thing my kids weren't around when it happened (due to the colorful language that followed).

Mark

i was shocked! i've never seen magnets that strong, so it caught me by surprise.



mine is super easy. but, you need to make sure you have a tight-fitting lid with no larger than 1/4" holes. mine regularly jumps up into my lid, especially at night. and, it managed to jump through eggcrate. so, that's the biggest thing.

also, they are going to rearrange your sand daily. so, best not to have super fine (oolite) sand, and make sure you have sturdy rockwork, because the jawfish's excavation could cause a cave-in.

if your'e talking about a bluespotted jawfish, you should try and keep the temperature reasonably low, as the bluespot is a slightly cooler water species.

So, I was inspecting my sump yesterday and I discovered that my Tunze Silence 1073.020 actually has "581 gph" printed on it. This is different than the advertised spec of 634gph. You can kind of see it in the pictures earlier in my thread, but this picture on the ReefBuilders review clearly shows the QMax as "581 gal/h."

I called Tunze to ask about this issue, and the person who picked up the phone said that all their documentation lists 634 and that they've never had anyone return a 1073.020. He said they are all sold out of the pump right now so he didn't have one to double-check against mine, but he said they'd get more in on Friday and that he'd call the manufacturer and find out what was going on with that. In the meantime, he said that he wasn't concerned.

I love the pump so much that I really can't see making an issue over it, but isn't it weird that a different GPH would be printed on the pump than is advertised everywhere else (including the instruction manual that comes with the pump)?

Did a fair bit of maintenance last night. I'm ready to really get aggressive in my war on this f'ing GHA. So, after doing a lot of reading... in steps, here is the current plan of attack:

1) Remove sponge behind overflow teeth (being used to silence overflow waterfall)

2) Scrub the rocks with a toothbrush to remove as much of the GHA as I can without distrubing things too much (took a stab at this lats night -- couldn't do all the rocks, though). clean pumps, too. siphon out as much as I can.

3) remove chaeto from fuge, scrub GHA out of fuge/sump

4) prune, thoroughly rinse, and reinstall chaeto (... maybe)

5) set my skimmer to start skimming wet, such that I'm removing on average a cup of skimmate every 2-3 days if I can.


and, if this doesn't get me the result I'm looking for in the next couple weeks....


7) CARBON. DOSING. I'll probably rely primarily on vinegar, with some vodka thrown in. Then, I'll probably start supplement with Amino Acids (maybe Brightwell CoralAmino? Brightwell products seem to be taking a beating lately on the forums, but this one seems to be pretty well received by everyone using it).



Who's got opinions?

Mark

haha.. point taken.

hey man you tank looks awesome with all that coraline algae
btw what is GHA

green hair algae

somehow i missed this message -- thanks for the heads up, dan!



thanks!

I feel you on the GHA... i am dealing with some byropsis myself while my tank is cycling. (I told you my tank was cursed). Have you tried some emerald crabs.. they took care of mine in no time in my last tank. I am in the process of dosing Tech M in mine right now so I will let you know how that works out. Thanks again for helping me with my skimmer a while ago

Well, the wife has advised that I may need to move my tank to accommodate our new bedroom furniture, which was delivered today, but doesn't quite have the same footprint as our previous furniture.

I am lobbying against the idea ( ), but we'll just have to see how that goes.

I'm not holding my breath.



i had some "bryopsis" looking algae during my cycle (see earlier in my thread) -- but, after the cycle completed, it was gone. so, don't panic yet.

I don't think it can hurt to dose up your Mg using the Tech M, but again, I wouldn't panic.



I have an emerald crab in there now, but I hardly ever see him (i saw him once a few days after I got him, and not again until a few days ago when I took a rock out to scrub some algae off). I have no idea what he's eating.



No problem! hope it's working out for you!

I got a longspine to help out with gha in my tank and he goes at it, but prefers the little coraline that I have vs. gha

Thanks for posting photo of sump. Is your gate value PVC or metal? I was afraid there might not be enough room for a value in cabinet. Might give that a try - still waiting for my Tunze 1073 to arrive.



More questions. Have been trying to choose powerhead(s) - am down to VorTech, Tunze and Koralia. How do you like the flow of the MP10 and 6025 (2200+ gph)? Too little, too much or just right?

Also, how is the fan working in sump - cooling and evaporation? My question is, are you planning to add either a chiller or ATO? Looks like there's plenty of room (holes) for existing cords, but do you think you'd need to add another hole for tubes for chiller or ATO?

GHA - I had a lot growing on output of Koralia Nano in BC14. Last week after WC, I forgot to turn it back on. In morning, I found my cowry on pump, so left it off. By lunch, GHA was all gone!

Nice coraline on LR!

Turbos and astreas always did the best for me to remove hair algae. If it's turf algae then that's a different story and harder to remove.

My starry blenny is going nuts on my GHA, and I just started dosing Tech-M. In combination in less than a week about a quarter of it is gone.

picked up some new stuff yesterday from Fish World in Midlothian (i am not rich enough to continue doing that, though):

new coral... green w/ baby blue polyps montipora cap (foliosa?)


a little closer view. had some trouble getting the epoxy/super glue to stick. it fell off several times before i had to start over with significantly more epoxy.



and, midas blenny!:

acclimation. not a happy camper.


but, a day later... happy!



he and Jaws the jawfish are definitely keeping an eye on each other. no real physical aggression yet, but definitely some staking-out-territory behavior/assertiveness. I'm not super worried, but i'm going to continue to keep an eye on them.

Here are a couple pictures of the new tankmates:





and, an FTS from today:

the pump is a copper-y color, but it is regular PVC. definitely don't want to use metal valves. there's plenty of room for valves, though.




the mp10 gives decent flow. it's just surprisingly loud when it ramps up. i have it running at 100%, though -- when you turn it down, it's not nearly as bad. if i personally had it to do over again, i would still consider the mp10, but i'd also consider the mp40. i don't know if the mp20 would be worth the money over the mp10. the mp10 is a fine investment for a mixed reef, but i want to do heavy sps, so i think i may end up buying either another mp10 or something else down the road when i've got more corals in the way taking up flow. you cannot beat the footprint of the mp10, though, especially on the back wall. and, no heat transfer to the water with the external motor.

i really like the tunze in terms of flow, and it is dead silent. it has not added any heat to the aquarium. having said that, it just doesn't give you near the kind of flow that the vortech gives you. if you were thinking about controllable tunzes and a wavemaker, that is not a horrible idea at all. it does take up a fair amount of in-tank space.

i don't have any experience with the new koralia evolution pumps. the old koralias seem to add some heat to the water and are not as quiet as the tunzes. i would much rather have one mp10 than 2 controllable koralias and a wavemaker.

as far as the amount of flow i have in the tank currently, it's fine for now, but again, i think i'd like to add an mp10 to the other side and maybe run them both at 80% for about 2500gph (not including return pump). that would quiet things down, too. and, i do like the pumps despite the unexpected noise.





the fan in the sump works well -- the one from cad is super loud, but it is muffled somewhat by the cabinet. i also run the cad 2-fan azoo-style fan over my overflow, and it only runs while the halide is on. the sump fan runs while the actinics are on (including the halide cycle).

because the fans work reasonably well at maintaining temperature, i am not going to add a chiller at this time. i maintain 79.2-80F after switching out the stock return pump.

i do lose a fair amount of water to evaporation. 5gal of RODI lasts me about 9 days. i added a JBJ ATO in December, and it has made my life exceedingly easier. i use it in Mode B (with two float valves in the sump) and with a Tom's Aqua Lifter (which i highly recommend). it just uses airline-sized tubing, but there's plenty of room in the existing cabinet holes to run extra hoses and wires. no problem there if you wanted to do that.

I've never seen PVC values that color, that's why I ask. Only seen gray or white. I'm a bit concerned about the rust on the metal inside cabinet - how are your hinges looking?

I'd love to get an MP40 - I like the idea of an external pump (heat) - but the cost is a bit much at this time. I've read great things about Tunze, but the 6025 are too low gph, while the 6055 with controller is even more expensive ($500+)!

I think I'm going to take a chance on a pair of Koralia Evo 1050s. They are very low wattage and I can hook them up to my Reefkeeper. I've been very happy with my Nano PH. Never found mine to be loud - the hood fans and chiller return pumps are much louder in my tank.

Thanks for info on fans and ATO. I've already bought an Azoo 2 fan unit and was wondering where to add fans - sump or overflow. May try both. Will hook to Reefkeeper to turn on and off according to heat. I'm thinking to use the funds I save by buying Evo over VorTech now for JBJ ATO and pump. I like the idea of keeping water level constant for SG and skimmer.

Thanks again for the replies and detailed info! Seeing how nice your tank looks, I really want to get mine filled - hope the Tunze arrives on Monday!

Nice Monti - I'm looking forward to having MHs where I can keep a couple SPS. I like how you stuck that frag to the side of the LR - should grow out nice. Wasn't sure how glue/epoxy worked under water.

Cool Midas Blenny. Always liked blennys. I recently added a Canary Blenny to my BC14. I really like him - he swims around front of tank a lot. I just need to ensure he eats enough. They have very small mouths, and my Clown and Sixline are very agressive come feeding time (i.e. they are pigs).

my hinges are completely rusted over (and i know a lot of others on here have the same issue). Eddie at Cadlights said that he just gets them at home depot if i want to replace them. i probably will, as the doors on the cabinet are getting kind of loose. when i do, i'll spray them with some rustoleum (or krylon fusion if i have any) to protect them a little bit better.



sounds reasonable. the reviews i've read about the evos have sounded positive, so i'll be interested to hear how they work out for you.



the ATO was a key addition. much MUCH more consistent skimmer production with that constant water level (plus, as an added bonus, the room temperature ATO water (so, ~71F) helps to keep the tank cool during the time when it's evaporating the most!).

i'm anxious to get mine filled as well -- unfortunately, these last two additions were awfully pricey, so i'm probably tapped out on fish budget for a while. i guess i just have to sit back and watch things grow.



Thanks!

Rusty hinges seem to be a common problem. Glad they are easy to find. As a precaution, I've painted my with a couple coats of rustoleum.

The specs on the Evo seem really good, as does the price. Will let you know how they work out - once I get some water in the tank.

Thanks for info on ATO. Never run a skimmer before, but I've read water level is key. Will go with the fans + ATO, and hope I don't need a chiller ($$$)!

I suspect by the time I get mine equipped and full of water/LR/LS, I'll be out of funds!

So how are you liking the Tunze Silent?

I just installed mine, same model. It is real quiet, which is obviously why i replaced the stock pump, however the flow is quite a bit less. Have you noticed any adverse affects in having low flow through the sump? The other downside to it IMO is that the running water level in my tank has dropped a bit. Did you experience the same?

Pics look great.

Thanks.

I still love the pump. It is definitely less flow than the stock pump, but that's not necessarily a bad thing when you have powerheads providing water movement in the display. i'm running an mp10 and a tunze 6025, which gives me about 2200gph in addition to the return pump flow. I figure, after head-loss, i'm still getting 7.5-8x turnover flow through the sump, which I think is pretty good for skimmer production, pod production, etc. i might get a little more detritus settling in my fuge with the lower flow, but i haven't noticed that being a problem.

i'm not sure what you mean by the running water level -- do you mean in your display tank? i guess that's possible, but i don't think the difference would be substantial (1/4" at most).

I am running an MP10 and K3 in the display so I wasn't too concerned with flow in the display either. I was just wondering if there would be any adverse affects with dropping the flow through the sump by about 1/3 or so. Affects in terms of the efficiencies of skimmer, chemi-pure, media, macro algae, etc. It sure is quiet though.

Yes, I meant the water level in the display. Even a 1/4" less bothers me, I would prefer the level to be as near the top as possible. I am considering blocking up the bottom half of the overflow grate, just don't know if this would create too much of a waterfall.

Thanks.

Found my emerald crab scaling my orange digitata last night. i had to poke the little jerk away with a turkey baster. digitata was NOT happy at the time, but it had fully recovered by the next day.





i figure increasing contact time with all that stuff has got to be a positive -- forcing more of the water to sit around with the media/macro.

on the other hand, anthony calfo has suggested that you want to get your ball of chaeto "spinning" in the fuge with laminar flow... but i just don't know that this is always an option, especially on smaller tanks (where "8x flow" is not nearly as fast as in a bigger tank).



i've read that people have been able to stop the waterfall by using a ziploc bag. i don't get much of one, as is, but if i had higher flow, i'd be looking into that. in your case, if you manually raised the overflow teeth, it would definitely increase your display depth. that being said, you may be in danger of the vortech overflowing the tank (depending on what mode you're running). i've gotten a wife within an inch of the lip on short pulse (but i can't stand the noise that the vortech makes in short pulse, so i usually run reef crest)!

It sounds like everyone is very happy with the Tunze Silent pump, but lower flow is a good point.

Given what you now know about the pump, would both of you stick with the 1073.020 (634 gph) or have gone with the 1073.040 (792 gph) for more flow? The 1073.040 is much closer to the rated flow of my stock pump (740 gph). New Pro systems have a 1000gph pump!

What's the down/up side to the lower/higher flow pump? I think you said the overflow noise was much reduced with the lower flow. Never had a sump before, so is lower or higher flow better for Cheato and fuge inhabitants?

look, if price is no object, you go with the 1073.040 -- it's adjustable down to whatever you'd need. however, the .040 is almost twice the cost. for $85, you get a great, quiet pump that is pretty versatile, and still gives you the 8x turnover through that is often recommended, which allows greater contact time for the skimmer/chaeto/chemical filtration media (carbon, gfo, etc.). slow flow would definitely benefit fuge inhabitants. after head loss, you're really only getting, what, an extra 80gph or so? i certainly would listen to other opinions about the "right" flow through the sump, but IMO the $60 is better spent elsewhere, not on getting nominal extra flow through the sump.