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newhobby
QUOTE (Marian @ Jan 6 2010, 05:53 PM) *
... schematic is OK if you are using mechanical relays. If you are using SSRs you don't need a transistor to command them. Arduino output (digital pins) is more than capable to do it. As far as On/Off switch you can modify the keyboard header file and select key or combination of keys that are gone turn HIGH or LOW an Arduino pin (too much work for adding a switch on the power pack).

Nice and clean work though. Congratulations !

my two cents,
Marian

Hi Mariam,

Thanks for your comments.
The only reason I decided to have override in the relay box, at least for my prototype, is that I can have the relay box work even without the controller if I wanted to.
And also because sometimes I want to just flip a switch and have my pump turned off. smile.gif
My first prototype had SSRs and it was running fine too, but they were kinda big and bulky. I could've gone with 5A SSRs, which would handle 400W MH, but they could heat up and I didn't want to deal with heat dissipation.
The relay can handle 15A and will never heat up. Click noise is a plus too... lol

RI

newhobby
Hello Everyone,

I just spent the afternoon with Brian at Meanwell USA tech support.
He was kind enough to let me go there and take my stuff to be analyzed. I guess I'm lucky 'cause I work a block away from their office.
Well, the result wasn't what I expected.
We found out that the flashing I was refering, happens on all ELN-XX-48 versions of drivers. It doesn't matter if it is 30W or 60W and even version "D" or "P". It's part of the driver design. There is a zener diode that was added only on the 48V version, which causes this issue.
The only solution is going with a different voltage of driver. For example, you could go with the 24V version and have no issues with flashing. You would still be able to drive 12 LEDs at 1000mA, but you would have to rearrange your string to be 2 string of 6 LEDs in series and connect them in parallel. In this case, you would want to go with the ELN-60-24. Just make sure your wire can handle 2A now.
The other thing I found out is that the arduino PWM by itself, cannot be used to control the dimming of the driver. You would have to add a new circuitry to up the output pin voltage to 10VDC. So, even though it is PWM dimming, it still requires 10VDC as the amplitude of the PWM.
I guess not many people knew about this one, huh?
I only found out, because I happended to be measuring the amperage of my string and I was getting only 600mA. When I took my stuff to his lab, he was too measuring only 600mA.
We ended up scoping it and he said that in the specs, even the PWM is 10VDC. I guess I misinterpreted when I read the specs. It is kinda misleading though: "1~10VDC(D type) or PWM controlled(P type)"
Anyway, just FYI for those planning on building PWM controllers with Arduino.
Ahhh....
Almost forgot....
The "D" version has a much lower dimming cutoff. I beleive he said it is about 0.5VDC, which is 5%. Much better than the 20-25% I'm getting with the "P" version. The spec says 1VDC, but he said in reality it is 0.5VDC.
I hope this can help you guys in the future and avoid lots of disapointments, headaches and lost hours trying to figure this out... smile.gif

Thanks,
RI
newhobby
I guess I never saw this: sad.gif
plantarms
how exactly did you setup your gui your graphic lcd? did you write code to display each pixel, or did you use some other type of program or method?
newhobby
Sorry for the late response plantarms...
I plotted pixel by pixel.

RI
newhobby
Hi,

I found out that the "P" version works just as well as the"D" version for analog voltage from 0-10VDC.
The other way around is also easy to achieve with just a couple of parts to smooth out the PWM to analog.
So, no matter what type of signal or controller you have, you can just plug in to the dimming wires and be able to work that just fine.
Anyway, today I tested my op amp that amplifies PWM from processor to Meanwell. I'm sending the meanwell 0-10VDC PWM now and I'm finally achieving 1A on my string.
After making the modification, I actually was able to achieve the 15% cutoff on the low side of the dimming.
I was getting about 25% before which was screwing my dawn and dusk, but it got a little better now. Not excelent, but better results.
I'm still gathering the quotes for the final prototype run.
I apologize, but I hit a bump when the company I was working with told me they only accept bank transfer and being an overseas company that I had no business history established, I decided to move on and find another one.

RI

plantarms
QUOTE (newhobby @ Jan 19 2010, 12:32 AM) *
Sorry for the late response plantarms...
I plotted pixel by pixel.

RI

wow, i'm really impressed! that had to have taken a lot of work, great build i might borrow a couple ideas wink.gif
newhobby
Hi Everyone,

I've been working with so many overseas companies that I almost feel like learning Chinese.... lol
Some have really bad English.
Anyway, the controller will be coming out at $110 for the kit + S&H (I think $10 covers it)
What does that include?
Here is the list:
Main Controller Box
- Assembled PCB board
* ATMega328P - microcontroller
* 2x 24LC256 - Serial I2C EEprom memory, one with jumper to block write access.
* PH circuit
* 128x128 color LCD screen
* DS3231 - Real time clock with battery backup
* Power LED
* Status LED, mainly used for alert and diagnostics.
* Thumb analog joystick
* 1x 8 Port I2C expander with inverter gate
* 1x 8 Port I2C expander with inverter gate circuit only (If you desire, you can solder the ICs to the board and have more I/O pins)
- Routed enclosure
- Mounting screws
- Assembly instructions

Relay Box
- Assembled PCB board
* 8x miniature relays
* relay driver circuit
* override and status LEDs circuit (the circuit is buit in the board, but no switches or LEDs are going to be provided)
* PWM booster circuit for Meanwell drivers (Additional $5)
* 1000mA capable LED driver (Additional $10) <<<<This feature has not been fully tested for a long period of time yet and does not include the DC power supply>>>>
* 2x Plugable terminal connectors for LED cable if any of the 2 above choices are opted in.
- 8x Outlet sockets
- Inlet socket with built-in fuse compartment
- Connection wires
- Routed enclosure
- Mounting screws
- Assembly instructions

Sensors
- 3x Temperature sensor ICs (They are not assembled in a cable)
- Connectors to assemble your own cable

What does not come, but you might want it
- PH Probe (additional $20 each)

- Waterproofed temperature sensor cable (additional $5 each)

- Float sensor (additional $5 each)

- Power cord (additional $2.5 each)

- TTL level serial converter cable (additional $25)


I'll be posting a more detailed pinout explanation for those that plan on developing their own custom software.
If you are really interested on trying out a one-of-a-kind controller, please send me a PM.
The boards on these kits have not been assembled yet and it might take some time due to some back-orders on some of the parts.

Thanks,
Roberto.
C-Rad
QUOTE (newhobby @ Aug 16 2009, 03:27 PM) *
Although my controller software will only be provided as a compiled version only for now, I will provide all the codes and examples to use the device, so you can easily make your coding.

I love what you've done! But I'm confused about what seems like a contradiction. If you don't provide source code, we can't modify the software. But you say "...you can easily make your coding." Are you saying that we can "easily" write ALL of the controller software ourselves, to replace your compiled version?

Are you saying that "for now" you will only provide a compiled version, but that later (after beta testing?) you will provide source code? If I buy one from you, will I get source code, or not?
newhobby
Source codes and examples to interact with all the peripheral ICs will be provided.
So, if you want to create your own coding, its a matter of copy and paste.
I'm still unsure of when I'll be giving out my own coding. It might be right after beta release or it might be when I start working on a newer hardware version.
So, my code will not be available with the beta release, just the sample codes.
I'm not making any money on these kits. So, I was intending to offer simple modifications as a service to those that wanted to hire me for that.
If that doesn't work out as I plan, by all means, I have no reason to hold on to the code.

RI
zemuss
I want! When can we order? lol
spinnaay
Hi There.

Loving this project!! I signed up to comment on it. $120 is a mad price to.

I'm based in the UK and would be very interested in helping you bring it over here.

I have been working on a similar thing my self, as in a relay box and PIC control box connected with a DB9 connector (or whatever they are called). But mine only controls float switches and then relays. Nothing more. No timing or anything. It's basically an auto shut off for my sump pump and then auto top off.

I am a trained electrician so could help out with UK relay boxes and things like that. You can handle the code!

Let me know. Also I will defiantly be interested in buying your kit, maybe you could sell me with out the relay box and I can use the one I made?

Cheers dude.
newhobby
Hi,

Yes, you can use the relay box you have made for your project.
I'm working of posting the schematics and you can just look at the pin out and adapt your box.

Roberto.
newhobby
Check this out:
http://www.reefangel.com
Taking pre-order commitment.

Roberto.
robcampman
Great project.. i pre-ordered already.. probably your first overseas customer..

some ideas for the 2.0 version:

- webinterface
- connection for tunze pumps.
- 3 or 4 dosing pumps (balling)
- sexy mermaid picture on the initial screen. cool.gif
lukeluke
hello, if you want for ATO you can use this project with sensor PTC http://www.acquaportal.it/nanoportal/Artic...nza/default.asp

the sensor is smaller and more efficent ;-)
spinnaay
Dude. You're a genius. I am defiantly on board with this project and will be ordering up very soon.

As you mentioned I will probably just buy the control board and then design a UK relay box with I2C built in to interface your box.

I can't quite remember. Are all your switches and sensors plugged in to the control box or the relay box?

Thanks

Thom
blibo
I assume this will not work with the meanwell "d"?
newhobby
It will work with both versions. "D" and "P".
You can order it with the 0-10VDC PWM booster, and to make it work on the "D" version, all is needed is add simple capacitor and resistor to the signal input, which I can do it if you let me know in advance you need the components added. Meanwell drivers "P" and "D" work pretty much the same way internally.

RI
newhobby
Hi All,

I was asked about the preset relay functions and decided that I should give a more flexible way of using the controller to those that have more specific needs.
So, I decided to add a scheduler to the software.
Since I don't have a controller besides mine and have never worked with one before, I need some help determining which parameters other controllers use for their scheduler.
Here are some screenshots of the scheduler I'm designing:







As you can see, I have time scheduling and logic scheduling based on sensor readings.
I would love some input on these.

Thanks.

C-Rad
QUOTE (newhobby @ Feb 5 2010, 09:37 AM) *
As you can see, I have time scheduling and logic scheduling based on sensor readings.
I would love some input on these.

Thanks.

Fantastic. Are there eight relays, one for each power outlet?

I would really like to be able to controll the timers with precision down to the second (or at least tenth of a minute), not just to the minute. That would enable me to run an automatic feeder or dosing pump for less than a minute.
eliboy
Pre-order placed, I can't wait!
murjan
.NET?
newhobby
QUOTE (C-Rad @ Feb 5 2010, 12:04 PM) *
Fantastic. Are there eight relays, one for each power outlet?

Yes, one relay for each socket.

QUOTE (murjan @ Feb 5 2010, 03:49 PM) *
.NET?

Yes, the PC scheduler software was designed on .NET framework.
murjan
QUOTE
Yes, the PC scheduler software was designed on .NET framework.

cool, I am a .Net Developer, specialized in Web Apps. Would be glad to give you a hand if there is a need. nice project you have in here, very pro smile.gif keep it up.
newhobby
Hi,

Got good new and bad news
Good news is that my LED driver is tested and is working like a charm with dimming all the way to 1% at 1000mA. It has a wide range of DC input from 12-48VDC. You can regulate the output amperage using a trimpot.
Bad news is that I guess I calculated the price of the driver wrong. It's probably going to be around $25 for both actinic and daylight drivers. But, you would get 2 drivers capable of driving a string of 13 LEDs each at 1000mA.
This driver has a DC input, so you would have to feed your own power supply source. I'm using a 48VDC/3A power supply for both drivers.

RI
eliboy
QUOTE (newhobby @ Feb 10 2010, 04:55 PM) *
\Good news is that my LED driver is tested and is working like a charm with dimming all the way to 1% at 1000mA


I'm glad to hear your results, I'll definitely be using your driver instead of the Meanwell ones.
obicanobi0
Just curious what type of time frame you are thinking for the first batch?
newhobby
Hi,

I'm sorry for the delay, but I can't do anything right now.
The Chinese market is closed for 2 weeks as they celebrate New Year.
They only resume business starting next week.
I apologize for this inconvenience and I'll try to make up for time lost when they are back.

RI
robcampman
they sure know how to party in the far east..
rbrusletto
Holy cow, staying up on this, might have to pre-order!!
robcampman
adding dosingpump functionality to 2 or 3 channels on the relaybord would be really great.. then you can dose balling salts. MAybe there are a few output pins unused that can be prgrammed for dosing. For me it's no problem to add 3 or 4 relays..

how are things getting along, have the chinese stopped partying ?
bruce922
Pretty cool bro. Will you ship to Philadelphia, how much? Haha
newhobby
Hey Guys,

I'm hoping Chinese market comes back on Monday. smile.gif

QUOTE (robcampman @ Feb 20 2010, 06:15 AM) *
adding dosingpump functionality to 2 or 3 channels on the relaybord would be really great.. then you can dose balling salts. MAybe there are a few output pins unused that can be prgrammed for dosing. For me it's no problem to add 3 or 4 relays..

The new software will give you the ability to schedule your tasks down to the second. So, you can easily implement a dosing scheme.

QUOTE (bruce922 @ Feb 20 2010, 06:17 AM) *
Pretty cool bro. Will you ship to Philadelphia, how much? Haha

Yes, most definitely. I think $17.95 covers it.

Look what I got myself this week:
WiFly
XPort
smile.gif
Next attachment maybe?

Thanks,
RI



mikalada
Everything looks so sweet, I defiantly want. Quick question since I don't know enough about microcontrollers yet. If one were ambitious enough to write the code is the led controller capable of controlling a monthly mooncycle?
newhobby
Yes Mikalada...
I heard someone else buying this to do that too.
Once everything is complete and everyone has their stuff, I'm sure someone will comne up with a solution to that. smile.gif
eliboy
QUOTE (mikalada @ Feb 20 2010, 08:22 PM) *
If one were ambitious enough to write the code is the led controller capable of controlling a monthly mooncycle?

I'm planning to do this as well, so we'll figure something out.
newhobby
All Right!!!
With the Chinese Market coming back this week, I'm going to start the manufacturing process!!!
YAY!!!

Thanks,
RI
newhobby
Hey Guys,

I still have some units left. Hurry Up!!!
While waiting on the Chinese market to start working again and the PCB manufacturing, I was able to work on the "Advanced" version of the controller.
With it, the user will have scheduling capability and be able to customize all the relays of the controller according to his specific needs.
Because the coding was taking too much of the little memory I have to work with, I had to move all the setup to an external program. Unfortunatelly, I can only make a Windows wersion of this software. If you use linux or Mac, you may need to find a PC to setup your controller.
I'm still working on how to implement the PWM setup in the software.
Please let me know if there is anything I'm missing.
Here are some screenshots:
Main Screen:

Sensors setup:

Tasks setup:

PH Calibration:

Memory Log:


Thanks,
RI
obicanobi0
[quote name='newhobby' date='Mar 2 2010, 12:34 PM' post='2718878']
Hey Guys,


looks great keep up the good work
newhobby
Posting Eagle files now....
Should I give out Arduino codes too?
Would you purchase the kit if I had source codes included?

Thanks,
RI
scott26
I have come here just to read about your amazing design I must say nicly done sir! I am not sure on one thing I am reading through your site and says that you have an advanced tech coming out is that included in the whole kit set yet?

If not when with it be or will it be?

Thanks,
Scott
newhobby
QUOTE (scott26 @ Mar 9 2010, 02:56 PM) *
I have come here just to read about your amazing design I must say nicly done sir! I am not sure on one thing I am reading through your site and says that you have an advanced tech coming out is that included in the whole kit set yet?

If not when with it be or will it be?

Thanks,
Scott

Hey Scott,
The advanced version is just a different software that you can load up on the controller. Since this is a reprogrammable controller, you can load any software at any time as you choose.
I'm working on this version still and I had to stop the development of it to start the manufacturing of the boards. It's almost finished and then I can start real testing. The PWM dimming feature is what is still missing.
It's not as complete yet either. I think this will be an ongoing version according to feedback I get back from users. I know for a fact that I'm missing "Relay OFF" when a on screen function is called for example.
The neat thing of this version is that it will enable web access and web settings change when I come up with the WiFi attachment.

RI
scott26
Well that is good to know looks like it already comes pack with info biggrin.gif what do you think this controller compares to on the market today?
serhiyi
Very interesting project.

I was going to ask about wireless access option to this unit to be able to view remotely the status and control settings. Looking couple posts back this option is something newhobby is thinking about. Very cool.

I do not know much about possibilities of this unit.

I need something that will be able to control my tank:
1. LED lights driven by 4 ELN-60-48D drivers
2. 2 power heads
3. heater (on/off depending on temp)
4. return pump
5. canister filter
6. skimmer

That is list by priority. Is it possible with this project? What else can I do with it, like auto top off, alerts, etc.

I think many things were discussed here before, but I have trouble combining it into one list and apply it to my setup.

Thanks a lot.
newhobby
Hi Serhiyi,

Well, since this is an Arduino based controller, you can actually make it so it does anything you want.
You can tell it to build a house if you wanted it to. :0
With the software I have already developed, I can tell you that the simpler version of the software can do all but the heater, but it does not have scheduling. It only has simple functions and the relay sockets are static.
The advanced version, which is the one that I'm working on and it is only missing the PWM, will be able to do it all.
Click here to get a lot more info... Schematics, sample codes and more are all in there. You can even place your order in there.

I hope this helped answer some of your questions, but if you not, please let me know.

Thank you,
RI.
serhiyi
I wish I knew more about electronics and other things used in this project.

I don't think I will be able to modify it myself.

Can I run 4 ELN-60-48D drivers from this setup? How many of those extra parts I would need to order to be able to dimm them?
If I can't have 4 seprate dimming drivers, can I controll them in pairs (wire two drivers instead of one to the same control wire)?

If not, will I be able to do some of it with advanced version of software?
Will I be able to upgrade software to advanced later when it is available?

Sorry for all these questions, I just really do not know much about electronics.

Thanks.

newhobby
QUOTE (serhiyi @ Mar 16 2010, 09:16 AM) *
I wish I knew more about electronics and other things used in this project.

I don't think I will be able to modify it myself.

Can I run 4 ELN-60-48D drivers from this setup? How many of those extra parts I would need to order to be able to dimm them?
If I can't have 4 seprate dimming drivers, can I controll them in pairs (wire two drivers instead of one to the same control wire)?

If not, will I be able to do some of it with advanced version of software?
Will I be able to upgrade software to advanced later when it is available?

Sorry for all these questions, I just really do not know much about electronics.

Thanks.

Hi Serhiyi,

The controller has 2 dimming channels only. One for daylight and one for actinic.
You should have no problems doing it in pairs, but if you are using meanwell drivers, you will need the PWM booster. Without the booster, you can only achieve 50% of the total power of the meanwell. You would probably be able to get up to around 650mA, which is half of the total 1300mA the meanwell can pump out.
The upgrade is a software upgrade and it is easily done at any time.
You do need the TTL converter cable to talk to a computer and upgrade software, but that's about it.
I'm working on a WIFI attachment that will enable "over-the-air" upgrades, but I had to halt the progress of it and the advanced version to finish up with the manufacturing of the boards.
In the simplest form, the WIFI attachment will serve as a TTL converter cable, but without the hassle of a cable. This would be the easiest application and easily done.
What I wanted to accomplish with the WIFI was to be able to configure the controller wirelessly through a webpage. That would make it a true cross platform software. My software to modify settings on the advanced version currently only works on PC and I have had Mac users comment on that.
So, for the first release of the attachment, I think it will still not have the webserver and it would just serve as a wireless link.

RI
newhobby
Check this out:
http://reefbuilders.com/
http://reefbuilders.com/2010/03/16/reef-an...fix
h2odvl
Do you have any systems left?
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