I'm combining my pre-existing 34 and 65 gallon tanks in an upgrade to a 125. The threads for these tanks can be found here:

34g Solana
65 Reef

The tank is your generic 6 ft 125. For lighting, I'm going with a somewhat DIY (someone else already did most of the DIY part) fixture that is six feet long. It features two 250w MH fixtures and two six foot strip VHOs. The ballast for the MH's is a BlueWav and the ballast for the T5's is an Icecap. My sump, to start with, will be a 29 gallon tank with the skimmer (Tunze 9010), a small macro fuge area, and an Eheim 1262 return pump. I am starting with some Koralia powerheads I already have (1 K4, 3 K2's), but I will eventually (6 months maybe? lol) go with at least two MP40's. And of course, I will have multiple heaters. I'm not sure I'll need a chiller, yet. My 34 needed one, but my 65 has been disgustingly stable in terms of temperature. I'm thinking that the 125 should be even easier to control. It is also on the lower level of the house instead of the upper like the current two are. Are there any changes you would make to this list of mechanical stuff or anything I don't have that you'd include, such as reactors or a UV?

The overflow that came with the tank appears to be small and I'm not sure it'll be enough. I may end up getting a second and possibly upgrading the one. It was used in tandem with a Mag7 by the previous owner and I get the feeling that I'm going to want more flow than I can get with the current box. If I go with the dual overflow boxes, I'll probably either get a second 29g tank and use that for some other media or connect it to a Calcium and probably Phosphate reactor. I'm not sure if I'd use the Mag7 I got with the tank or if I'd order a second Eheim. What are your thoughts? Please feel free to go into detail if you have plumbing recommendations.

I'm also mentally challenged and unsure of how to set the box up. I have the part that has the hang-over lip that goes on the back of the tank, and the box that goes on the interior. I also have a u-tube. Does the tube just go from the from to the back and act as the means of flow delivery from the tank to the overflow box itself? Here are a few pictures.





The lighting is another problem. I purchased a used aluminum frame that another reefer put together. It's meant to either be hung over the tank or to fit inside of a hood. The problem is that it's too wide to fit into the hood that came with my tank. It is just about exactly the same width and length of the hood. The frame does fit over the tank and it won't hang over any side. I can cut and weld the frame as needed. Would you alter the frame to fit into the hood, scrap the aluminum frame altogether (may not be the easiest choice in this case), or adjust the hood to fit the frame? Also, I still need reflectors for the VHO's. What would you recommend? These are a couple of pictures of the frame and the hood.




Besides those major issues, everything is running smoothly so far. I need to get a 50 gallon drum and figure out where I can hide it. I may put it on a roller so I can hide it out of the way but be able to easily roll it over to the tank when it's time for water changes and such. Just for fun, there's the first official FTS: a tank with nothing in it but a little sand!



Besides stating that this will be a mixed reef with a nice variety of fish and a predominance of SPS corals, I'll save going into detail on the stocking list until later. Thanks for your help.

Yay! another 125
def looks like u will need a larger overflow box or 2 like u stated, my tank is the RR and it has 2 large overflows.

Yeah, I wanted an RR but those just don't seem to exist around here. Oh well, overflows are fairly cheap. I like your tank, too.

A little update on the hood is that we're going to expand it and make it taller. The way it is right now, the bulbs will end up being just 3-4" off of the surface of the water and I want them to be at least 6" up. The nice thing is that I'll have tons of open space in the back to attach fans for ventilation. Because of how the supports are built, I won't be able to have the MHs right where I want them, but I'll be able to make two columns or hills on the ends of the tank instead of piling up in the middle.

I only had one overflow on my 135g, but it was larger than yours, with two drains. Did the trick though. I had a Mag10 as a return pump, plus a bunch of modded MJs in the display for flow. The return was in the center of the sump with a skimmer on one side and a fuge on the other, which is why I got the overflow with the dual drains. But if you set up your sump to go skimmer->fuge->return, that overflow and pump you have may be fine. There's no reason your return pump needs to provide a huge amount of flow to the display.

dude, drill your tank and add a bulkhead while you still can. you'll be glad you did. those overflows are a pain

I thought about drilling, but at the point we're already at, it'd be cheaper to go with the overflows.

Jere, the sump I already have goes skimmer -> fuge -> return. To start, I'm reusing the one on my 65. My thoughts were possibly mirroring that with whatever additional reactors I may end up using. Thanks for the advice about using it as a source of flow. My main concern is overall turnover rate for the tank.

Good start, but I would seriously consider a visit to glass-holes.com. I did, and don't regret it.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll have to check it out. I've had a crazy week and a half, so I haven't been able to do any work on it yet besides organizing things and getting them out of my dining room.

yea, i would def drill it while you can.

If you drilled, would you go through the back wall or the bottom?

Through the back. The bottom is almost certainly tempered. With the glass-holes overflow kits they're designed to go through the back anyways. They'll send you an overflow, a bulkhead, a holesaw, an elbow, AND a t-shirt. You'll just need your piping of choice.

You'll either need to also get smaller holesaws/bulkheads to drill for your returns or just make U-pipes over the back to save a hole or two.

My 125's plumbing: http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/few...lz/IMG_4241.jpg

Yay another 125! Great tank.

I have 1 overflow on my tank and I stuck it at the end. Made it into a peninsula tank. Great views from 3 sides. Return pump is a Mag 9.5. Flows into a 3/4'' spray bar tucked up and into the rim of the tank and runs the 6 feet. Interesting to watch is the slow rotation of 6 feet tunnel of water.

I have 1 MP40W set to max on reefcrest. It works, I have zones in the tank. Closest to the MP40w is the sps, middle gets LPS and far from the pump is softies and low flow LPS.

Skimmer is a urchin 100. Will work until the tank gets more populated then will have to upgrade.

Lighting is a ebay score outer orbit 72'' model 150w

Getting enough LR in these big tanks is a major $ drain. Consider dead rock such as lace rock as 90% of the fill, get some good premium LR of your choice and it will turn the rest into LR over time. Saved me lots of $$$.

Good luck and keep us updated!

I recommend going with quality base rock, such as Marco Rocks. It's still much cheaper than live rock, but will be awesome once it's grown in. Then it's worth more if you're ever forced to sell. Crappy base rock isn't worth the money to me.

About 1/4 of my rock is Marco Rocks, and now, it's some of my nicer live stuff. Definitely worth a couple dollars a pound.

Some of my rock in my 55 gallon was over 10 bucks a lb.

I actually have well over a hundred pounds of LR in my existing tanks and some really nice, massive base pieces. I may not drop any money on adding any more LR once I have the display filled. They want $10 per lb around here for dead stuff. You have to wait until someone that knew what they were doing breaks down their tank. One shop did get in some stuff that looked like it could have been from that Tampa Bay place. That was the only stuff I ever would have paid $10+ a pound for.

Anyway, I ended up not drilling. I tried a few times on some scrap glass and I just was not comfortable doing it. I couldn't get anyone to do it for me, so I ended up getting a huge used overflow. I did try a spray bar but didn't really like what it was doing, so I'm just going to go with the boring loc-lines. Right now I'm just using my existing Koralias, but I will be getting at least two MP40Ws for this tank, just takes some time to save up the $800 to drop on them. On a side note, Rocket, I love the peninsula style, but I just don't have a place in the house to do it at.

Today is the day I'm going to start actually moving livestock into the tank and I'm still very nervous about it. The advice has been to do it all in one day, but I am extremely worried about doing damage to my more sensitive fish and corals, not to mention the clams. I have a couple of large, empty rubbermaid containers (never used for anything before) that I plan on using to hold the fish while I move the live rock. Right now, I'm seriously considering taking a few smaller pieces of rock and placing them into one of the containers with a powerhead and an appropriately sized heater for a holding tank of sorts for the fish.

I would love to hear what you all would do, so here's a list of the livestock in question, besides the rock:

Tank One:
-1 Peppermint Shrimp
-1 Harlequin Shrimp
-1 Neon Goby
-1 Helfrich Firefish
-1 Ocellaris juve/male
-1 2.5" Potter's Angel

Tank Two:
-1 Ocellaris juve/male
-1 Pyle's Wrasse, female
-2 Tricolor Anthias, one male, one female
-1 Pearly Weed Wrasse (assumed shrimp-safe, but never been with a shrimp to test the theory)
-1 2" Hippo Tang

Thanks a ton for the help you've all offered already.

P.S. here's the cloudy tank shot. The canopy's off to make things easier until I'm done with the move.

I'd move them all. Just take your time acclimating everything.

Yeah, the only thing that's not going to get a drip acclimation is the rock and corals.

Well, I've been looking and nobody really lists what they use for heating on their 125's and larger. I have two 250w heaters in my tank, turned all the way up, and I still can't get the temp above 76. Is adding the 150w that's been running my 34 the solution or am I just doing something wrong? There is one heater in the bottom and one (ugh) in the display.

I run two 250s in mine and it's at 79* all the time.

Hrm. I haven't run the tank with the lights on yet, so I'm sure that'll make a difference. If it levels out at 79 with lights on, I may add one more just to be able to use to micromanage it so it's not reliant on the lights.

I had my Wednesday afternoon off, so I did some work today and put a good deal of the rock in. I'd say it's about 75 lbs worth, with some really dense base pieces. Even though I have some stuff left, I'm thinking it's gonna need more...I haven't looked at rock online for awhile, but I'm thinking I'll go with the nice lace packages that Reef Cleaners (I think it's them, anyway) offers and get the CUC I need as well.

I plan on finishing the move tomorrow and Friday. I'm sure all the rock I put in today will do well, but I'm holding back on finishing just to be sure. For now, here's an FTS and one showing the addition we did to the canopy.




We added to the top to hang the MHs inside of it. That leaves it with the bottom, original part completely empty and two levels where fans can be attached if heat removal is a problem. I ran the set up on the tank when it was still empty for about five hours and there were never any temp issues, but that's with a large empty void beneath it.

Thanks for looking!

Are you running your MHs on it yet?

Well, according to Optikal's 90 gallon tank thread, Koralia 3s put off quite a bit of heat. If that's the case, that helps in my tank as I have two K3s along with a Mag3 and the two 250w stealths.

I think if you got one more heater it'd be enough to get you where you're wanting. Even if it's a smaller sized heater.

I have 2x250w heaters right now. I don't have any powerheads in yet, but I will be starting wtih two K2's and one K4, so that may help. This is the first full day of MH being on and the tank was stable at 82 all day, so I think I can turn a heater down.

Yeah, I think you'll be fine after powerheads.

I have most everything moved, except, of course, the sand sleeping wrasse. She buried herself when I wasn't looking and now I'm thinking that I may be stuck trying to dig through the sand to get her. Seventy-five pounds of sand. What my plan is, is to let her come back out on her own and then chase her when she's the only fish in the tank. If I don't catch her, at least I can see where she buries at. Any dis/agree?

Update: The wrasse came up about an hour ago and I was able to catch her without her going into the sand. She was acclimated to the tank and promptly found a nice spot to bury and hide.

My female Pyle's and my Neon are both being extremely reclusive, but everybody else was out and having fun, so here's some pics.

This is my luitenant tang, or Acanthurus tennenti. He had some scratches and discoloration yesterday in QT, but he ate well and they went away as the day progressed. He looked great so he finally ended his QT today.


A couple of group pics.





Some individual pics.





I wanted to finish with my anthias. I guess I should have known that they could flash. As soon as the male got comfortable, he started flashing. The first two are normal coloration, the last is a flashing.

Very nice, I like, I like. But why so little tangs I blew up my tank with them

There was really only one group of tangs that I liked that would fit my tank for a long time, and I'm not brave enough to risk the war of more than one Acanthurus. I'm also just keeping it to three larger fish, the last to be added when I finally find a healthy one.

And what would that be?

Flagfin Angel. I kind of missed the season on them, I think.

Well, it's been quite some time and I wish my update were more positive.

This spring, we finally moved our house up to Michigan from Ohio and that resulted in a four hour drive. As we all know is bound to happen, despite the best planning, the move has been crazy and has not worked out well at all for this tank unless you like buying new fish and corals.

We were not able to start moving into the new house before being completely out of the old house, and actually had to spend some time in between homes as we closed on ours before taking possession of the new home. Thanks to a very good former LFS owner (feel free to PM for info if interested) I was able to have the fish in their own place for a week while we did not have a house to put them in. Unfortunately, the end result was the vast majority of the rock and sand being out of water for over 10 days, making it obvious that the tank would have to cycle.

I still had my 65 gallon available and it ended up being a QT tank for some coral and all of the fish. Amid the stress of moving, I did not take proper care of the tank. The first couple of days saw serious temperature variations, from a low of 67 to a high of 87. That, presumably combined with other stress factors, seems to have caused an ich outbreak. I started treating with hypo-salinity but still lost several fish in a short period of time. My Potter's Angel was the first to go. The following evening, I lost my hippo tang and a female anthias. I believe the tang passed fairly early on, as it was well-started down the path of decay when I found it in the morning. I had ammonia spiked to almost 4 ppm and nitrites around 5 ppm. Several 50% changes, two dead clowns, and 36 hours or so later, things are finally back to 0s across the board.

Things looked like they were starting to recover until I lost my neon goby this afternoon. It was clearly disoriented in its swimming and almost looked to have a swim bladder issue. Unfortunately, it has been hiding for several days and I don't have any other symptoms than its sudden appearance and death to go off of.

I'm down to three fish right now: male Pyle's Fairy, a Luitenent Tang, and my Pearly Weed Wrasse. The Pyle's started showing some nice signs of recovery about 24 hours ago, starting to regrow a rotted fin, swimming normally, and most importantly eating again. The tang is also showing signs of the white spots of ich reducing but he is still swimming in front of powerheads like there's an issue. Despite their upturns, in that time I lost my normal-colored ocellaris clown and now the neon goby.

My current water conditions are: ammonia, nitrites, nitrates all 0, pH is 8.4, and SG is 1.020. The temperate fluxuates with the light between 76 at night and 79 during the day. I"m still attempting to treat the ich with hypo, but with several large water changes, you can understand why it's going down very very slowly. In the 125, their real home, the ammonia is starting to resolve to 0 and nitrites are climbing so I'm thinking I've still got at least 10 days left of cycling before I can return them to their proper environment.

I know it is very difficult to provide any kind of input without seeing and/or knowing the situation for yourself, but if you see any glaring mistakes or have any ideas for what I should be doing besides standard QT techniques to keep the fish going strong on recovery, I'd love to hear what you have to say.

I just wanted to update. Even with stable conditions and several other things tested (TDS tests run on all systems and water sources), I ended up losing my last three fish. As wrasses will, the two of them showed almost no outward signs of illness besides a little fin rot but once they were down, they were done for. The tang started to look worse and worse over about 12 hours until he finally went last night. I'm very sure the infection was ich, but it is possible that it was some other type of bacterial infection.

I've only been further frustrated as I've gotten the tank's conditions back under control. I did lose a couple of corals with the problems but the survivors are coloring back up and showing polyp extension. During the whole ordeal, my blue linkia, which was originally purchased as shrimp food, has just kept plugging along through the whole thing. As a side note, apparently the best way to keep a linkia star fish is to completely ignore it. It's been chugging along for nearly a year now with no special attention.

So, after all this, what I'm left with is a 65 gallon tank with about 30 gallons in it, serving as a holding tank for corals, a starfish, and a couple of hermits. My 125 is still cycling, but showing progress. Currently, the big three stats are: ammonia 0 ppm, nitrites 5+ ppm, and nitrates, well, let's just say they're so high they don't have a color tab on the card (I'm thinking around 40 ppm). After nitrites come back down I'll go on a water change spree to lower the nitrates if necessary.

The cord on one of my MH's went bad (couldn't find the exact problem but it was in the cord) so we're waiting for a retrofit kit to come to replace it with. Once that's done, I can finally get a real light over the tank. I'm sure that'll cause some late cycling reactions.

I'm going to be replacing pretty much all livestock so here's a break down of what I'm looking at.

My clean-up crew needs a revamping and a refill:

• 30x Blue Leg Hermit Crab
• 10x Scarlet Reef Hermit Crab
• 50x Margarita Snails
• 15x Astrea Snails
• 15x Cerith Snails
• 30x Nassarius Snails
• 1x Peppermint Shrimp

Some of my fish are still in question, with some pending research and decisions, but here's the rough start to it.

• 2 clowns: Ocellaris, Percula, or maybe brown Saddlebacks
• 1 Potter's Angel
• 1 Midnight Angel
• 1 Threespot Angel
• 3 Lyretail Anthias, 2 females and 1 Maldives male
• 2-4 Neon Gobies
• 2 Pyle's Fairy Wrasses, 1 male and 1 female
• 1 Lubbock's Fairy Wrasse
• 1 Chocolate Tang, plan to find as Lemonpeel Mimic juvenile
• 1 Blue Hippo Tang
• 1 of the following: Pearly Weed Wrasse, Ornate Leopard Wrasse, or Divided Leopard Wrasse

I'm still not 100% certain on the ability to keep just two females with the single male anthias. I've read some thoughts (thought not credible) about needing to have upwards of 9 females at minimum to keep the male's aggression down. My choice on the last wrasse really depends on availability. I would love to have another Pearly Weed Wrasse (Xenojulis margaritacea) but it may be a real bear to find one. I want to have clowns again but obviously I'm undecided on the species. I will also be adding a pair of harlequin shrimp.

I would love to hear input on stocking, both in CUC and ornamental critters. Other than that, thanks for reading and even though my situation has not turned out well, hopefully it's at least served for a warning or some insight into the difficulty of moving a tank.

Man I'm so sorry to hear about the tank! Sucks big time. I've only had to move my puny 29g once about 20 minutes away. Fortunately I didn't lose any livestock. But I also wasn't pressured to move the tank at the same time as the other stuff.

As you said it's difficult to asses the situation, but in my experience it's really difficult to keep a large, heavily stocked QT stable. I think you would have been much better off leaving your fish at the LFS until your tank was fully set up and cycled again. Even if they charged you, it still would have been way cheaper than losing all those fish. If that wasn't an option at all, then I would have considered setting up multiple QT tanks in the basement or something. So that each tank's bio-load is reduced. Granted the logistics of this would have been horrible, but still cheaper than losing your livestock.

The last thing would have been your method of treatment for the ich. I find that hyposalinity is best used in fish which are still relatively healthy. The treatment itself isn't overly stressful for most fish but as far as I know it leaves them open somewhat to secondary infections. I'm not saying that is or isn't what happened here, but I might have gone with a more aggressive treatment for the ich. Something like Cupramine by Seachem (which even seems to work well with angelfish!). Copper is also somewhat of an anti-biotic so it can help prevent secondary infections.

Anyways, I'm sorry again, but glad to hear that you seem to be recovering well with plans for the "new" tank. You're not moving again for a while, right?

Good luck.

Right, this tank will probably be able to stay where it is for many, many years to come.

Like you said, bioload was a major issue with the QT. I did not plan well. I could have gone with extra time at the LFS for the fish but I hadn't realized just how taxing their bulk would be on a 65 gallon tank with limited rock. I could have kept up with changes but it just all was realized far too late. Multiple tanks wasn't a real option and actually has me considering trying to find a cheap used 75 for a second QT as a result. My only other tank right now is a 20 gallon which got turned into a holding tank for some FW stuff, so that's probably done for in terms of SW stuff.

I considered a more aggressive treatment on the ich but I've had success with hypo in the past and not-so-much with meds. I was also worried about going with copper-based as I did have an angel. Is Cupramine your choice med for ich and other bacterial issues? I'm looking more for confirmation on this than anything: would it be the right choice to let the QT the fish were in now sit for a good 6 weeks as is the norm for ich-tanks?

Thanks for the input and good wishes.

Well things are finally starting to look up. I've managed to keep two corals. My psammacora has struggled some but has regained its color nicely and is showing decent PE. I need to kill an aiptasia that's popped up right near it, though. The other that survived was the hammer. The main head died but the babies are doing just fine, somehow.

The 125 itself is cycling nicely. Since the last update ammonia has fallen to 0, nitrites are nearly there, and after spiking at about 40, nitrates have fallen and are around 10 ppm. However, the tank is only running on one heater (current temp is ~70) and without a light. The kit to fix my broken fixture finally came in yesterday so I hope to find the time to install at least one light back into the canopy and have that running on the tank ASAP.

The refugium has had light on it the whole time and that is showing a small diatom bloom.

After I get the light on the 125 and see what effects, if any, it has, I should be able to order my CUC soon.

The light has been on the tank for a few days now and the second one is getting put on. I moved my corals back into the tank and they seem to be loving the better flow, though of course I accidentally fragged one of them. My CUC was ordered this morning along with a pair of clown fish that will be going into QT (separate tank from the one just used). I did go with saddleback (A. polymnus) clowns which means WC and tons of preemptive treatment. Per WWM's recommendations, I'm going with Maracyn 2 to start them either way and may try a Formalin dip as well. Any thoughts on these?

And as promised, a picture. The existing bulb is an XM 20K and I"m actually liking it more than I thought I would. I'll be nice to see it compared to a Radium side-by-side.

Sorry to hear about your moving troubles. I had to move twice last year and lost a lot of livestock as a result. At least you're in a more permanent place now and can really get the tank running right.

Sorry to hear about your losses, hopefully you've recovered decently. Being in one place for a long time now will really be nice for the tank.

Both lights active, Radium on left and XM on right, both 20K.

I like it! But why only two mh?

It's actually on purpose. Two would be fine if they were spaced closer together, great coverage and whatnot. While I will have a very SPS-focused tank, I did want a dead-spot in the middle for some lower-light LPS, specifically faviids and acans. I'm actually getting "better" coverage now, with a smaller "dead spot" than I did with the previous rock configuration. If I went with a pure SPS tank I'd probably have 3x400W's, but I'm not that extreme at this point. Thanks for the question thought and it's a good point to consider.

I also wanted to say that LA is evil. I am waiting on my clowns (bought from another source) and they post two, TWO saddleback pairs that look great after my clowns were already paid for. Now, they have two Cebu Pyle's males and one of them is in a trio. Stupid LA posting stuff I really really want when I can't actually buy it. T.T

My clowns and CUC are coming on Wednesday. In the mean time, it was finally time to take some pictures of the coral survivors.

Psammacora:



On the hammer I lost the main head but the babies are doing great:



Blurry GSP and green palys:

Finally, the fishies are here. I opted not to go with QT with these fish. The vendor (Blue Zoo Aquatics) had already done a good deal to ensure their health. I went with a short methelyne blue dip and then introduced the fish. The big one is bossing the little one around a bit already.

Hiding but healthy little guy:


Big guy out in the open:


P.S. I need a new camera.

Here's a little update. My small fish has gone missing but it's unfortunately not surprising. He is definitely skinny, though shows interested in food and has eaten some, and he's been hiding. While the activity of the larger fish is slightly aggressive, he only goes after the smaller one with slight chasing but the small one acts like the big one just took a chunk out of him and goes off to hide again. Hopefully he's just timid and will work things out.

In other news, I want more fish, darn it. If I go with a logical order of addition, my neon gobies should be next, but DD keeps getting Pyle's wrasse trios so that will most likely be my next addition. I would love to add more right now but I think letting these guys get settled over the next couple of weeks is the best choice, especially with the smaller fish looking iffy. I may just satiate my need for new stuff with a couple of frags. My corals are doing great and Preuss always has awesome SPS for sale.

Freaking jumping fish. I don't have any clue what could have caused the fish to jump or how it managed to get out. I lost the second clown to carpet-surfing. Found him dried out at about 6 am this morning after having checked on the tank at around midnight and all being well. Something had to have spooked him pretty good. That being said, I am going to revamp the netting on the back of the canopy and I'll include photos when all is done.

Besides the fish loss and major overhaul on the canopy's anti-jumping system, it's been a good week. Here are some coral pictures to get started.

This is an acro (no name associated) which I got from Preuss Pet's. Given their other stock, it's probably a named coral of some sort, but until it colors, I have no guesses and am content with colorful, or green and brown currently, sticks. It's showing some dark green currently (just moved off sand this afternoon) and the potential for purple but that may be the way that the brown is manifesting.



This is a montipora of some sort. It shows potential for looking like the Appleberry monti and I am hoping to get it to color up very similarly.



Annnd the psammacora. I am convinced that this is the toughest of SPS and should be everyone's starter SPS, given what this thing has made it through.



I added fish once more on Thursday. A blue neon goby, some other goby (presumably Gobiosoma sp.), and a Lubbock's Fairy.





I know I promised pics of the work on the canopy but I forgot them so they'll have to come next time. When I was at Preuss to get my current fish, they had a gorgeous Bellus pair and I am thinking I'll go with my "large" fish being a Bellus pair and the Chocolate Tang. That's all for now, thanks for stopping by!

I purchased the aforementioned Bellus pair (Genicanthus bellus) tonight. They went through ~15 minutes of floating temperature acclimation before almost two full hours of dripping. The female was out and eating aggressively right away. The male got his mouth caught on the net as he was going out but he appears to be fine. He stayed in hiding but I am not concerned at this point. Here's a few pictures.

The male started to come out after lights-out last night. Both spent the night cruising around and were out and about this morning. The female is definitely a tad thin but she eats like a pig so I'm not concerned at this point.






Edit, yay video!
http://www.vimeo.com/12875560
A link because I'm still phail.

About two weeks after intro, the angels are doing great. The male is quite the pig and the subtle king of the tank, mainly, just king at feeding time. No one's really afraid of him but it's fun to watch him try to intimidate the wrasse at dinner. Everyone is doing great and the corals are growing. I have some pest algae as you'll see but it's under control (sort of) so I'm not worried atm.

I bought a mated pair of clowns today. The female is missing an eye (they were in a dark tank and I didn't do the best job checking them over) but it looks old and healed. They both ate but are understandably skittish right now. The male is probably the cutest little clown I've ever seen. We bought a new video camera last night so I figure I'll test it out on the tank to make sure it works. ^.^

Nice to see you got your 125 back running. We need to create a 125 gallon club here. Seems to be a popular size from jumping from a nano

Thank you and we do need to do that. I think people pick the 125 because it's a nice starter for the 6 ft+ length realm.