He has crazy LED's.

touché

i was wondering more along the lines of camera settings

Hopefully this tank of mine will become gold enough for TOTM in the future! I know your 20g has the potential for greatness, and I expect it from your sir! a few nice show corals in a 20g can make it look packed! lol...



Camera settings were fun... (NOT)

Basically it is a custom white balance that I achieved from setting the white balance while having the tank in focus, with the room behind it lit with dimmed halogens that are pretty orange. Don't ask... I can't explain that any further lol...

other important settings:
ISO 80
F2.8
0"5

I shoot with a Canon G9 and a crappy mini tripod to prevent blurring.

Honestly, I think CM should go back into the archives at times when picking TOTM. Your 20g blows away most of the tanks that get that honor these days (no disrespect to any of the TOTM's). If this tank turns out half as good as your 20g then TOTM is a lock. It's just a matter of time. From what I've seen recently, Tigahboy is your only real competition. No pressure, lol!!

well it works

Duuude all Tigah has got is freaking mini nems... that's like bringing a thimble collection to a motorcycle show...
Jokes hahaha. I don't care who my comp is, there will always be another TOTM as long as their are months in a year, and sponsors to fund this forum! hahaha... I will wait my turn. I want it to be well deserved. If my tank isn't up to my TOTM standard and it gets picked - I WILL TURN THAT SH!T DOWN!!! hahaha



It did! lol

Regradless, if you want TOTM then I'm quite confident that you will have TOTM. It's just a matter of time. Honestly, I'm very curious to see how things go with your LED's. I love the idea behind LED's, but I'm not sold on the actual functionality of them just yet. I haven't done much research on the subject, but do you know of any nice tanks that are solely lit by LED's, and have been for any significant length of time? I'm just curious, I hate my current T5's but halides are out of the question for the time being.

My LFS uses a I5 solaris on their display reef, and also over their top-down coral tanks. Both have been in use for over a year and both have sustained coral without issues.

I will say though - my donut has bleached out significantly since I got it. I had to move it to a much more shaded portion of the tank and am currently pounding it with food to bring it back. It will be fine - but it shows how much balls LED has... I have since turned down the output of the LEDs from all 100% to blues at 80% and whites at 60%.

Clams seem to be happy though - proper response, no stretching or shyness. The SPS seem to be ok for now. I will have to see how it goes over the next month or so. If I don't like the results, then the AquaticLife 6 bulb HOT5 unit may be on the menu.

TJ I think it is time for an index on the first post! I forget what pages have the pictures I need for the plumbing and what pages have the pics of sweet lights and corals.

Just a thougt

lol, fair enough.

I will make an index today!

You are a gentleman and a scholar Mr Burton.

I have implemented the TABLE OF CONTENTS!

lol...

So I got the replacement SCWD in the mail this weekend which was great. Unfortunately the new one is making a stupid amount of noise as well. If they can't trouble shoot this one and find out why it is so damn loud then I am just going to throw a T on there and not worry about the alternating current. I am sure the MP10 is going to do a great job all on its own.

Is the squid attached to something to hold it steady? Do you prefilter the water going into it?
I am sure you probably saw this in the instructions but will post it anyway.

"Symptom: SCWD is noisy or stops abruptly, stops and starts sporadically. Remedy: Foreign debris is lodged in switching mechanism. Flush out unit to dislodge debris. Verify pre-filter is installed and is not clogged or restricting flow.

Installation:
There are many ways to install you new SCWD. The following instructions reflect the preferred method of installation. In addition, even though your new SCWD is not overly sensitive to the normal particulate and debris found in aquarium systems, to ensure long life, water must be filtered prior to entering the SCWD.

1. Measure and cut two pieces of 3/4" (ID) hose for the two outlets. For best results, it is strongly recommended that both outlet hoses are cut equal in length, leaving the SCWD centered between the two outlets.

At this time, you should support the SCWD by mounting or hanging the SCWD from the back of your tank using bendable wire."

I have owned a couple of these before. The water is prefiltered at the pump, and the squid is held in place. It is not stopping/starting, it's simply noisy. The bugger of it is that if I use it on a pump that is less than 1000gph it is perfectly quiet. I throw it on the MJ5500 which should be producing a bit less than 1100gph at 3' and it starts up with the rattling again.

I just think that it might be too much flow/pressure for the unit to handle, although it is rated for up to 1400gph.

Gottcha.

so many pages, so if you already had this question im sorry!

Do you run your lights on a timer? What is your sequence?

This tank looks insanely awesome so I was just curious about that part! ^_^

The light is a Solaris so it is running on Auto-Mode following the solar/lunar cycle.

Well I ordered my stuff from Savko on Sunday and it should arrive on Friday. Their prices were awesome. So I should have my tank plumbed this weekend. Now just to dig up your pictures and see how you went from the drain to the sump.

Good to hear!
Did you take a look at those Wyes valves?

Hopefully finding my plumbing pics won't be too hard since both this thread and my 40br thread have linked tables of contents on the first post!

Yes I looked into those. I remember you using them on your 40. I didn't purchase one yet but I may in the future. If my calculations are correct then I will have plenty of room in my sump for the tank to drain into it, should the power go out.

The Table of Contents is the best idea since sliced bread on these build threads. I hate having to dig through 40 pages for one picture!

Then you probably won't need it! My current tank suprisingly enough doesn't need it.
And I agree with the table of contents - a must have for any build thread.




Did some testing today. So far all I have had to dose is buffer as it seems to drop every 4 days or so. The cal and mag levels are identical to last week.

Alk 7
Cal 480
Mag 1280+
Nitrate 0

To be honest, my SPS are not very happy right now, and the light was a little intense for the LPS at full pop so I dropped the day whites intensity from 100% to 65% - the LPS seem a bit happier. The clams seem to be top notch regardless, although when the light was at full blast, the crocea would not open up completely (escaping the light is my guess).

Sooo tank looks a little bleh right now but I am sure it will pick up.
I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

So this may come as a shocker - but I am considering selling the solaris and going with 6 bulb HOT5 hahaha...

The Solaris so far seems really unpredictable with light output. LPS are bleaching, SPS are browing, softies are thriving, and my params are all perfect. SOOOOO all I can think of is that the light is not doing what it should.

Maybe I am just LED retarded? Either way, if anyone has any suggestions feel free to drop me some hints!
as mentioned above it is on Solar mode, Daywhites 65% Dayblues 100%, approx 12" off the surface.

Come back home TJ! You know T5's have the upper hand!

A new Sunpower would look really good over that tank. My 40 is gonna have a 6x24W Sunpower over it.

Well, I have a guy interested in the Solaris for more than enough to purchase a 6 bulb HOT5 and a few replacement bulbs for it... I have till Saturday to make up my mind since that is when he wants to pick it up.
I will probably get the new AquaticLife 6 bulb HOT5 if I switch. The reflectors are MUCH better than that of the Current USA Nova Extreme Pro.

I am hoping to get some response from the LED users on the site to see if my problem is with my lack of LED experience or something else.

I don't know much about solaris and its components and settings but I can tell you I've had grat results from LEDs, My SPS is growing, I also have seen a huge color change both in SPS and zoas.

Another thing to consider is that you got that for cheap and you won't need to replace bulbs in a few. T5 will need replacements in about 9 months? Heat is something else to think of...

In the other hand, LED is so a new technology right now that there is a lot of new things coming out will continue to happen while the prices drop. Example: CREE had the Q4, Q5 where available the other day and now the new XP-G or something with even more lumens (which frustrates me) what will come next? Probably affordable 10W LEDs or something...

My 2 cents would be to stick with the Solaris, but run both the blue and whites at 70% each. I have been running LEDS for about 4 months now and the tank as been great. For the first month or two some corals needed some time to adjust, but once they did both color and growth have been great. The only corals which seems to hate my LED are a few shrooms I have. Sounds to me that your LPS need to be placed lower or at least shaded.

Valid points from both of you. I actually also got a response from Evil on the matter (via PM) and have turned the whites down further to 50% (since par from whites and blues is pretty much equal and I'd rather have the extra color).

I will wait it out a while longer and see where it goes. Even if I sold the fixture and went with T5 for now (since I am used to it) I am sure there will be more affordable and better LED fixtures coming out over the next couple years which I could turn to further down the road.

We will see.

You got a less than working Solaris. You fixed and modded the thing to your needs. It has everything you need to run any kind of schedule - intensity you want.
Isn't it just a matter of dialing it in now.
I would hate to see you give up on it but understand the frustration that goes along with watching your coral perhaps suffering.

YOU CAN DO EET!! STICK WITH IT!!

Just my $0.02

Thanks Spanko!

NOW - I could get my hands on an I5 that is BRAND NEW for a reasonable price, I would have to invest SOME money after selling the I4 but it might be worth it. I am going to explore that avenue today.

I think it'd be cheaper to replace a few LEDs than to buy a whole new unit, right? Also, what optics are you using? My little PAR38 bulb is doing wonders for my SPS. Do you think it could just be the fact that the corals are all in a new tank and have to go through an adjustment period?

I wouldn't have to buy new LEDs since I have a bunch of spare parts and a spare ballast. So really it doesn't cost anything to swap them out - but even the spares were from the same unit. The I5 also has 5 extra LED's per array and better coverage from what I have heard.

I did consider that the corals would just be adjusting, but the params are identical to the previous tank where they were extremely happy. I used all the rock from the previous system, and a good chunk of the water. The only thing that is really different is the lighting.

I am not saying it isn't possible that it is something else, but I am kind of stumped as to what else it could be. Pods, shrimp, urchin, starfish, cucumber etc. are all happy, the clams are happy, the xenia is happy, it's just a few LPS (not all) and most of the SPS less the deepwater acro that seem dissatisfied with something.

I am going to see what I can convince the LFS to sell me the I5 for, if it is reasonable I will make the switch and stick with LEDs. If not I may just keep this unit if the new settings seem to make the corals happier.

Why don't you contact Evil about using his PAR38 lamps instead of an I5? I would think that 4 of them over your tank would be plenty. You could sell the I4 and get some PAR38's from him.

I understand they don't have all the extras that the I5 will but something to look into IMO.

36" PFO I5 like $2,000.
Is that what you are talking about?????

Well I was going to go with a 24" again but I wouldn't be spending anywhere close to that amount.

Glad to see that you finally realize the Solaris fixtures are complete garbage!

Why not just go with t-5?

I was about to say this. You won't be able to dim (that I know of), but a japanese spotlight style 30b would be hot.

lol - The Solaris isn't inherently garbage, I think the issue is more that I am using one that was a salvage, and one of the earlier generation LED fixtures for a reef. That and I am not at all used to LED technology and its application on reef aquariums.

I do like the idea of a Japanese Style lighting system, but I am not willing to drop $400+ on PAR38 bulbs. They look neat but they just don't really appeal to me all that much. I would rather be able to dim, or use T5 and have the ability to change bulb combinations without dropping another $100 plus on a different PAR38 bulb.

Good suggestion though, I will certainly keep it in mind.

Ok so long story short - Here is the guts of my BRAND NEW Solaris I5









American made, and the quality far surpasses that of it's Chinese built counterpart the I4.
If this doesn't work I am going back to T5's hahaha.

That looks really sweet! Hope it works out nicely for you.

Now where are the pictures of it over your tank??? I mean that was a total tease.

hahaha sorry,

I'll take some tomorrow - been a long exhausting night. Only reason I took those photos was because Evil had requested them

The tank looks amazing!

I was planning on building a 40B that can be viewed from 3 sides and then I saw this thread. This build has been a huge inspiration. So I went out and bought some 2x4s and started building a stand tonight..

Hope the new lights work for you and look forward to seeing this tank come along.

I'm glad I could help light the fire under your butt hahaha. I took a peek at your thread; looks like a solid start to me!

Few new pieces. All LPS/Softies because my SPS are still mad for whatever reason (I have yet to determine).

Red/Pink chalice - I think I will call it UberLameName chalice


Orange plate - I think I will call it SuperOragneRetardedness plate


My new zoas - I call them UltraOrangeToxicCraberryRushRidiculousness zoas


lol

Oh, and my big green plate was once a frag from a larger green plate that was in my 40br. I fragged it into 5 slices like a Pizza and gave them to various friends. One of those friends didn't do so well with it and it died. This friend was also lazy enough to leave the dead skeleton in there. A few months post-mortem it decided it wasn't ready to die and started making little plates. I now own this little fungia factory. It has already made half a dozen plates, and I have half a dozen more currently popping off it.

My slice is still doing great. About 4" across now.

I trade youuu....a frag of orange zoa + baby plate for purple cespitularia + orange monti cap, according to the following formula:

(orange zoa + baby plate) - (purple cespit + monti cap) = 0

Also, can we see a FTS including the new light?

I like your UberLameName chalice

I think that may work out, but I'm not interested in the cap right now.



Ah hahaha; thanks.

Why you no likey the cap?

Cause my SPS no likey my tank atm! lol



Pics or it didn't happen...