After the Southern California Edison caused tank crash on my 39 gallon CAD Pro I decided that I wasn't happy with the CAD and wanted to take a stab at rolling my own. So I sat down and designed this:

It is modeled after the standard Lee Mar 56 gallon 36"l x 18"w x 20"d tank with a few "optional extras":
Starfire glass on all three sides
Rimless so it looks allot like the ELOS tanks
Dual drain line
Closed loop
Overflow box that didn't take up a big part of the tank and that light could pass through so I wasn't loosing space
Total cost for the tank came out to $700
The stand is a stock Lee Mar stand with a large centered door.
This tank is going to serve as a display tank for a dual dosing/ATO reservoir system and combination refugium/sump that I have designed and plan to offer for sale.
In the sump there will be:
Tunze 9010 skimmer
Neptune Systems ORP, Temp, and pH probes
The sump portion is designed to have a flow rate of about 400 gallons an hour and the refugium a flow rate of 100 gallons an hour. This is to maximize skimming potential and to allow for nice things like pods to grow more comfortably in the fuge area.
The return compartment will be empty except for a Tunze Osmolator sensor suite and return holes for my chiller, dosing system, and ATO. The return compartment will also serve as the primary "Oh Crap!" overflow for the tank. a secondary "Oh Holy Crap!" overflow is a 16"l x 16"w x 4"t acrylic box that the sump/fuge sits in with a Maxijet 1200 and float switch in it. Total overflow capacity at that point is 6 gallons. If the float switch in the box activates the Maxijet will kick off and pump water into a 5 gallon container giving me a total "OH SWEET JESUS FROG ON A POGO STICK THINGS ARE REALLY BAD!" overflow capacity of 11 gallons or 20%ish of the total system volume and a 100% over the estimated overflow capacity based on back syphon from the return lines and drain.
The return pump will be an external Poseidon T3 pump. It will feed flow from the sump/fuge back to the main tank as well as feed a closed chiller loop and a polyreactor and 18w Coralife UV sterilizer closed loop. The T3 has a flow rate of 700 gph at 20 feet of head and I plan to have 100 gph flow going through the UV/Polyreactor (don't want the GFO the start breaking up) and another 200 gph going to the chiller with both dumping back into the return compartment.
After running a couple of refugiums in the past where I had a deep sand bed, live rock, and live rock rubble I came to the conclusion that unless I am doing a "display refugium" for people to look at having a DSB and LRR is more trouble than its worth. So in the refugium I will only have chaeto.
Lastly the lighting will be an ATI Powermodule T5 Six Bulb 39 watt unit with the following light bulbs listed from front to back: ATI Blue Plus ATI Aquablue ATI Pro Color ATI Aquablue GE 6500K Daylight ATI Blue Plus
Here are some shots of the plumbing and the tank. The plumbing is about 80% complete. The 1/2" ball valves you see sticking off the closed loop drain and return are for water changes. The closed loop drain side will be for water out and the return for water in. Water in will come from a Mag 5 pump placed in a bucket. The reason I am doing this is because one of the main reasons why I would get wet carpets was that I wasn't always very careful on my syphon and refill and that tended to piss She Who Must Be Obeyed off quite a bit.



Yeah... Yeah... I found I need a PhD in Physics and a MS in Mechanical Engineering as well as a advanced submariner course from Damn Neck Naval Submarine Force Training Command.
Drain line ball valves are to shut down completely either (both) drain line for maintenance of the sump or the line itself. Gate valves on the drain line are to fine tune the amount of flow going into the sump and refugium.
Ball valves on the 1" return are for turning flow on and off to the return pump and to the water change out line (1/2" line and ball valve)
Ball valves on the return line (the one with the + connector) is for maintenance on the pump and the line. Gate valve is for fine tuning the output to the tank. The two 1/2" ball valves (not in photo) will be to regulate flow to the chiller and UV/Polyreactor
3/4" ball valve on the closed loop return is for line maintenance. The 1/2" one is for adding water back into the system during water changes. No gate valve will be used here because I am not really all that concerned about fine tuning the flow here.
Unions are for taking apart the lines for maintenance.
The 45* bends are to allow me to attach the piping to the stand so that I don't put strain on the bulkheads from the weight of the pvc and the vibrations from the water flow.
The odd angles into the sump are because my wife #####ed about salt creep and the possibility of flood.
What worries me the most is the flow coming down the drain lines. Running the math[1] I get about 338 gph from a 1" drain line with 1" of water weight pressing down on it via gravity draw no syphon. With two main lines I get 677 gph With the bends and loss from the components I am worried that I am going to reduce that to below what I would like.
UH
[1] Algorithm for those of you who are into that kind of thing or who just like pain:
Velocity of water out an opening:
V = 8 Sq Root h ft per second where h is in feet
Flow rate:
q = AV where A is in sq feet
q = 8A Sq Root h ft'3











