You would have to have a screaming fan on that heatsink to deal with 20 LEDs. I wouldn't recommend it. You would need something double that size.

That LED setup is not heavy on blue. If anything, there isn't enough. Typically with neutral whites, the ratio is 2:1 blue to white.

Small heatsinks like that can work, but I advise attaching them to a larger sheet, and the LEDs attached to the sheet. It helps unify the mass, and makes things more stable. Typically though, I recommend larger heatsinks with more mass and surface area.

anyone please?

There are some fixtures in that price range, like Maxspect and a few others, but for the price, you can't beat the Nano Sol. If you want to DIY, we have some heatsinks coming out soon that will give you good asthetics with a DIY setup.

TB aquatics has a SWC LED setup that is 20 Cree XR-E' that is dimmable for only $350. The downside is that the fixture is a black box that looks ugly as hell. Check it out.

I have no idea about the technical aspect of the fixture and what mha’s it operates at.

With the LED arrangement on that fixture, it's better suited to longer tanks, rather than cubes.

Alright, thanks for the help.
Here's the new plan: two 9" x 4.25" heatsinks, 12 LEDs on each.
The heatsinks will be side by side for the cube I am setting up.
Here are the layouts:

Option A, Blues OUT
RB NW RB B NW RB
B NW RB NW RB RB
RB RB NW RB NW B
RB NW B RB NW RB

Option B, better sort
RB NW B RB NW RB
NW RB RB NW RB B
B RB NW RB RB NW
RB NW RB B NW RB

I tried to keep more blue on the outer edges, and went to a 2:1 Blue to White ratio.
I plan to run two blue strings in parallel, ~700mA per with fuses. The blues are XP-E's driven by a meanwell 60-48D. The NW's are XP-G's, also with meanwell 60-48D.

Thanks again
-Kevin

Edit: They will be in two 4 X 3 patterns effectively making it 4 X 6.
The post didn't hold the spacing I put in.

I would advise against running in parallel, especially if you are going to be running the neutrals at a higher current. It will make the 2:1 ratio kind of pointless. I know it will cost a little more, but run the blues on their own driver, then the 8 neutrals and the 12 royals on an ELN-60-48D each. The driver for the blues could be a LPC-35-700. It's fixed output, but at 700mA, and with only 4 LEDs in the array, you should be fine. Remember, the blue LEDs run without optics, if optics were going to be part of the plan in the first place. They are there strictly for color, not growth.

Thanks for the advice. By the way, on another forum a person mentioned that PWM dimming didn't look as good as 0-10v dimming. Have you come across anything like that?
I'm going to run these with an arduino, I know how to amplify the signal to 0-10V, but it's still PWM, I'm just debating whether I should put an RC filter on it to try to smooth it.

Using the right driver with the right input signal, there should be no difference in dimming performance. The only issues will come up when you start using the wrong signal with the wrong driver.

Hi,
I just read that you shouldn’t run the blues and the NW LEDs together. I'm asking this because I just purchased 14RB, 2Blue and 8NW LEDs. I was going to run 8 NW and 4 RB on one meanwell together. Is that going to be a problem? I know the Max mA is only 1000 for the blue LEDs so I was going to set them at 850.

The question is am I holding back my tank by not running my white LEDs at 1000+ mA, and would the color look funny if I only have them set to 850.

Evil,

I am doing a retro to a 24" Current Outer Orbit fixture. The fixture will sit over my 24x24x20 AIO. The actual viewing area is 24w x 18l x 20d. My dilemma is would I be better with a longer, thinner heatsink running two rows of 9-10 leds or three rows of 6-7 leds either spread out more on the longer heatsink or just shorten up the fixture a bit. There is plenty of space inside the fixture to take either. Also, the fixture will be hanging about 12" above the waterline so would optics be necessary for that situation? Thanks in advance.

so I was wondering, why are frameless fans better designs than framed ones in terms of airflow, besides a less obstruction from the frame? I was looking through cofan's website and the framed versions are rated for higher flow @ the same size. I'm having a bit of a hard time visualizing it

does anyone know the size of rapidled stars? i am hoping to put 3 rows of 6 cree xp-g and xp-e stars on the nanotuners fluval heatsink in this layout:

rb cw rb cw rb cw
cw rb cw rb cw rb
rb cw rb cw rb cw

also could someone tell me how to power the fan on the nanotuners heatsink?

Running blue with the whites isn't that big of a deal if it's needed to make the setup easier for you. With only a few blues on a driver compared to the whites, the effective minimum color temperature is increased, which isn't a problem for most people, as they never run the setup at 4500K.

You're only holding the tank back by running at a lower current if that current isn't adequate for your tank setup. Without knowing more about your tank, and it's inhabitants, It's not easy to say if 850mA is too much or too little.


For the display area being 18" wide, you would be better off with 3 rows of LEDs. 7 or 8 LEDs along the length should be enough to cover the tank well.

With the fixture being that high over the tank, you will need optics. Probably 60's will be more than enough to get the job done, unless you are wanting to an sps only tank, where 40 degree lenses would be better.


It's all about where you need to put the airflow. A framed fan is designed to contain and direct the airflow in one direction (along it's axis), leading to the higher airflow rates. The frameless fans allow the air to "spill" off the fan blades, and away from the fan axis, rather than directed along it's axis like a framed fan. Frameless fans work better in situations where the fan is flat mounted to a surface, and airflow needs to be distributed radially around the axis. This is why we end up using them in our fixture heatsinks.


RadipLED uses the same 20mm stars as everyone else.

While you can use that many LEDs if you like, you can get away with fewer if you don't need an sps only setup. You could effectively drop the middle row and still have more than enough light for most corals.

The fans are 12v, so just apply 12v from any power supply with at least 200mA capacity.

Hey I am curious as to why my leds flash throughout the night? I have 6 meanwell drivers dimmed with 2pots with one power supply running to the pots. Any ideas?

So, it looks like you are the person to ask. I have been reading for a couple days and still have some questions. My tank is 48"X19"X21"tall I am looking for 150w HQI levels. I would like to use Cree XP-E Royal Blue and XP-G R5 cool white with maybe a few warm white mixed in. I originally thought I could get away with 48 leds, but now I am questioning that. WHat would you suggest?

Did I read you do group buys or have leds for sale?

Also, was wondering about using aluminum channel from the hardware store instead of heat sink. My thought was the separation between channels would make up for the lack of mass.

Thanks in advance.

Forgot to mention I want to use 60 degree lenses.

Hi Evil, A question for you!
I am thinking to upgrade to a 39G Aqueon Bowfront from my 12G nano. The dimensions are 30"Lx15"Wx21"H. This comes with the hood (I think one or two fluorescent tubes). I was thinking 3 rows of 8, 3W leds. Do you think 24 LEDs enough to have a mixed reef with SPS in the top 1/3 of the tank. Also do you think I can pack all LEDs in the hood where the stock lighting is located?

Does thermal grease work better or the thermal epoxy(permanent) for heat transfer from a star to heatsink.

I am after some help. I recently purchased some of the Thomas Research drivers (TRC-040S105DS - 40 watt at 1.05 Amp) from Nano Tuners and i have build my first of three LED lights using them. What i liked about them was the internal 10v supply for dimming. The drivers are running 10 CREE XP-G or 10 CREE XP-E LEDs and i have hooked up a potentiometer to each driver. The problem i am having is they dont dim down to 0% which is what is shown on the spec sheets instead they dim down to maybe 30 - 40% give or take.

When i try to dim it seems to dim very little for the first 50% of the turn of the pot and then dims down to the lower level in the last 50% of the turn. When i measure the volts there are 10 volts froming from the driver and if i measure the volts across the input output of the pot i can see it changing from 0 to 10 volts.

Could anyone suggest what the problem may be?

Hi evil

I want to replace the t5 lights from my rsm250 into a maxspect led light.
But i don't know which light to take.

The maxspect g2-800-170w Cree or the g2-800-230w Cree.
170 w
Top=250 par
230 w
Top=400 par

What do you think?
wich one shoud i take for sps and lps?

I am not sure about TR drivers but about the pot, are you using a linear pot or a log pot. Most volume control type pots are log pots and they tend to have fine control on one end of the rotation (think about a logarithmic graph)

I tested the current and the drivers only dim down to 0.125 amps and not down to zero. is this normal and if so can i do anything to get it to dim down further.

Cant believe I didn't this of this earlier.

I have a 24 LED rapid kit with two 48Ds. When I originally set the internal mA to 750 on them I used 2 AAs as the dimmer source. Now I realize my ALC is obviously putting out more voltage then 2 AAs to the dimmer source, wouldnt that mean it could be going well above 750mA now?

YES!
Be very careful and be sure to test with a 10v power source or you will burn up your LEDs.
2 AA batteries ran in series is only 3v. If you run your ALC to full 100% 10v, you will overdrive those LEDs!

Soundwave, what device do you use to measure the PAR levels underwater!? and do you know where I could buy?

ta, Pete

Evil I was wunderin if you saw the new article on r$$f bu!lder$ and what par 38 bulbs would work best for a 84" x 28" x24" tall if set up like this or if it would work at all. How many and what kind of par could I expect from this type of setup. Thanks.

on the ends you have : RB ---> CW
CW ---> RB
RB ---> CW

IME one side ends up looking bluer than the other. anyone else have the same problem?

I was just browsing dx and saw this. Maybe someone will be able to use it.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-90w...n%20full%20view

i read through several of the build threads which focus on the 3w leds. i was wondering if anyone has ever had experience with the following type of led?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-10W-Cool-White...#ht_3270wt_1270

i have it linked so as to include the readings they claim. this would be over a 10 gallon tank as far as depth. and it would be an array with a couple blues and whites. thanks

I've seen some single LED heatsinks being sold here and there that have a huge hole in the center of the heatsink. RapidLED for example.


This seems very unintuitive. That big hole is exactly where the LED is on the star, and that's where the heat is.

Right?











It would work fine for running DC-input drivers like Buckpucks. Not good at all for direct driving LEDs.

Remember there is a PWM circuit by Evil.But just cannot find the circuit any more.
Anyone can help

Ok I would like to make a heat sink that uses a piece of aluminum C-channel 22"x8" that I could either weld or bolt to a smaller real heat sink and use thermal glue. Would this be a good idea or totally bogus?

Bump

ok seriously I would like some help....

Would I be able to get an led light for a 24 gallon for under $100?

I'm also kind of curious if these leds for reef tanks are the same as indoor plant grow lights?

Appreciate any help you guys can give

Yes, same as plant lights.

A smaller heatsink does make sense when bolted directly to the back of thinner plate aluminum *if* it's driectly in back of LEDs.

Hello master Evilc66...I´m back!!!!! How are you? Finally...after almost a year...I posted the pictures of my reef with your lighting system....How can I include my post in you list of diy led fixtures????

Here is my link, I will post soon the lighting details. I hope you enjoy the results: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=283698



Hails from Brazil...

D.

Hello LED gurus!

This is a fantastic thread and forum!

I have one question. I have found this heat sink:
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-Suppl...95_106_114.html

I think that would be enough for 1 3W cree at 700mA?

Would if even be enough if I cut it in two pieces, so the height becomes 25mm? Then I could cool 2 3W cree from one of these.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

/Daniel

Depending on the size of the c-channel, how many LEDs, and the current they are run at, you can use just the c-channel as a heatsink. Typically, they rely on airflow from a fan to keep cool, but it's certainly an option.



Looks good. Just post a few pictures and a link in that thread, and I'll add it to the list on the first page.


Even cut in half, that should be more than enough to run a single LED at 700mA.

Evil,

Thanks for the awesome guide. I learned alot but still have many questions. I have looked at the bridgelux LEDs as a less expensive alternative to CREE. With all the other disadvantages aside, can you tell me how their white 4500K, 6500K and 10,000K compare to the CREE cool white and neutral white? Is there a CREE version of the 10,000K? I have seen many threads where people get purely 10,000K as their their only white LED. What type of ratio of these white would you recommend getting if one were to choose this LED. I apologize if this has been asked before...couldn't find it in the thread.

Thanks,
Fred

I don't recommend getting anything over 6500K honestly, regardless of the manufacturer. Typically, you only see them from the Chinese manufacturers, and will wash out colors badly.

Color temperature is an odd measurement. There are a billion ways to make a color temperature, so even though they may claim to be the same as another LED, they most likely are not the same spectrally. Chinese manufacturers have a hard time getting whites right, and will typically have a green or slightly purple cast to them. That's not to say that other manufacturers like Cree and Lumileds don't have the same issues, but they are typically to a much lesser degree, and only visible on tighter lens angles (flashlight guys see this issues a lot more than we do).

Thanks Evil!

So I have 2 Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers running 12 white and 14 royal blue cree leds. I also have a dimmer I'm wiring in. (I'm doing some re-wiring at the moment to place the dimmer better.)

I'm just curious, could I run both divers off of the same 110v power cable and then re-calibrate the driver or do I need 110v to both?

Oh, I also need to wire in the 2 stock (Red Sea Max) fans as well (.12A).

Thoughts from the master?? (or any other masters out there?)

Thought I'd chip in with the project over here. I can't release all the details about how we're getting this kind of output or what chips we're using.. but.. I can post some teasers.



shows the test board size. a center row of blue LEDs will be added later.




shows how thin the board is and why we DON'T need heat sinks.



Shows how efficient the board is.. this is running off of a Makita battery... less than 750mA draw at 12VDC for the entire array.




In the test BioCUBE 29



Before the dust settled from putting in the LR.. but you get the idea...

This looks like it could be a revolutionary product, wow. So thin!

I second evil on this. Just I have a set of cree xr-e cool whites, meant to balance out the royal blues on my set up and it really washes out the color even when at their lowest current. I thought I wanted that temp for the growth, but I'll be dropping down to some neutral whites to see how this looks. I wish I could mix some various color/temp leds on the same string, but I'm pretty sure I've read that is a bad, bad thing...

I've got a tank that is 12" tall. I reeeeaaalllyyy wanna do LED lights but don't think I could figure out how to DIY it. So I'm looking at this light from aquatraders: http://www.aquatraders.com/LED-Reef-Bright-p/56213.htm

Would this light be enough for corals? I'd probably just stick to softs. Thanks!

Not sure if it's been brought up, but I just saw these PAR20 bulbs that are dimmable.

http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/PAR20-LED...6-Watt-Cree.php

3 Cree XREs. Only problem is they don't have a royal blue in there.

Yeah these are yellow. Even if someone was to supplement with a significant amount of blue, it will still not produce a nice popping color

huh nice find DHaut

maybe Im mistaken, but wouldnt these be a great solution for lighting in the Fluval Edge?
http://www.ledliquidatorsinc.com/MR16-LED-...9-Watt-Cree.php

You could just buy two and switch them out with the stocks. Blue would still need to be supplemented somehow but it seems like a good idea for all of those people looking for plug and play


yea I guess 5300K is quite warm. still seems like these could be used somehow...