For testing, sure.

Excellent. Thanks.

Hello,

I'm new here on the forum. Found this thread while looking for a way to use my errorly ordered MW ELN-60-48P with my 0-1v analog dimming channel from my IKS Aquastar with Simmod. It should have been D-models. But as it took more then 2 months for the drivers to arrive from the US (I live in Holland), returning them is not my first option. That is, if I could make the P-version work with the 0-10v dimming channel.

Just read 36 pages with very interesseting info. But I guess what I was looking for is still not worked out?

Maybe I should point out that I am at the start of building my first LED-fixture. Ordered a complete package at www.rapid-led.com

No LED building experience yet. Very basic electronic knowledge, soldering skill I have yet to develop

Best regards, Frode

I've been running mine for several months now on the D model and the ALC finally works on my RKL. It actually dims fine, well its more of an exponential curve barely fading over about 45 minutes then the last 15 minutes it dims pretty darn quick. Has anyone else noticed with 0v in the 0-10v input the royal blues stay on very dim? I've been through this entire thread and nobody mentions it but I noticed someone else in another forum did. I was annoyed by the stupid flash when A/C power is killed and Evil told me to leave the Meanwells on 24/7 but with the royal blues staying on I cant.

Mine flashed when AC power was turned off for a short while but they don't do it now... that I notice, at least. I have mine on a timer and both the Meanwell and to 10v power input goes off at the same time.



My dimmer is an analog potentiometer, and there is definitely the exponential curve you mention, as I crank it up and down. little brighter.....little brighter...little brighter...little brighter.....little brighter..... a LOT BRIGHTER..REALLY BRIGHT.


I'm not sure how to stop the low-level light emitting when input is low, but mine do the exact same thing if I turn the dimmer all the way down. I don't think mine actually hits 0v, I think it goes down to 1 or 2v.

Now if I turn the input voltage totally off (ie, unplug the 10v power supply) then the LED's will dim and turn totally off over a 5-15 second "fade". They don't emit anything.

I got an LPC-35-700 meanwell driver and hooked it up to 3 LEDs and it didn't light up. I was wondering if there is a way to check to see if the driver is working properly. I checked voltage and current for the driver and it read 47.5V and 700ma. Are there any other determining factors indicating that the driver is working properly? I checked continuity across the LED's as well and it was reading 0. When I powered up the LED's, the voltage across the string only ready 3.7v total.

Where would you connect the power supply neg and pos wires?

I'm still trying to find a decent circuit that will do what is needed.


Vin and GND

Would be nice to know

Question,

I hooked up the Lm377 circuit for the d model to a 24v .4 amp power supply and when I turn the potentiometer up or down, one of the directions makes the LM377 circuit so hot one of my 2 circuits burnt its self out with smoke and all.

I should probally hook it up to a mini heatsink?

It should generate very little heat. Can you post some detailed pictures of how you have it hooked up?

Just to confirm, you could just use a 12v supply, 2k resister, and a pot, but people are building this just so they can use any 12-32v supply, correct?

Kind of. You can't rely on a "12v" power supply to be 12v on the dot. Many cheap wall warts can be as high as 16v. This circuit makes sure your upper limit is 10v no matter the input voltage.

Sorry but I must be missing something. On Evi's 10v dimmable circuit for the "D" drivers I only see one Vin input (I presume wiring the + wire from 12v wall wart), But where would the second wire (negative) be attached to. Thanks for the clarification

Click to view attachment

I understand that the Vout will connect to the dim+ on the driver and the GND will connect to the dim-.

GND, DIM-, and the power supply ground all get connected together.

Okay I get it know, its just inline to the positive wire of the DC wall wart. thanks for the help

Thanks Evil.
I suppose I'll build one just to be safe.
Here are the links for the parts for those who want to avoid searching... I think these are the correct parts.
LM317 - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairch...Ol%2fpaRCDcrsrF
470 Ohms - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Sp...AWP8eSSIa3ik%3d
10k pot - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/R...AHxYlzgHkxak%3d
1 uF - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata...Jcza2UA8TVU0%3d
.1 uF - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay...1e%252baSdJw%3d
1KOhms - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Sp...VO23iZBQpnCY%3d

I can't seem to find a circuit board on the site.. is it called something special?

EDIT: is this it? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Twin-I...pPMAOdENINytuBO

I can't find it, but it's in there somewhere. You can get it from Radioshack easy enough though.

It's called "perf board" by some (short for perforated board), "prototyping board" by others. That is what you want.

Yes, but they don't have plated pads. The other options that company sells (not Mouser) are expensive. The small square perfboards at Radioshack are a few dollars for two.

hey everyone,

i have some questions about the ELN 60-48D that i'm trying to use... I have a string of 12 xre whites and a string of 12 of the royal blues. i then try to have one of the drivers connected with V+ to the plus of the first white LED and the V- to the minus of the last LED. The DIM are not being used and are exposed because I don't need the dimming capability just yet. I have the ACn connected to the white wire of my power cord and the ACl to the brown. BUT when I plug the cord into the outlet, nothing. Sometimes i can see a flicker in the LEDs or when i unplug the cord the whole array will do a reverse type of dim and get brighter and brighter and then cuts off. Can anybody give me an explanation as to whats going wrong?

Read some more here in this thread. If you don't have a dim circuit, you still need to provide a signal through it in order to operate.

I have another question for the experts here

I can probably squeeze the meanwells (8 of them) into the top of the housing I am using to make everything self contained This is my 4' array build build here:

My Build

But the plastic case of the driver will most likely be in contact with the top of the heatsinks. Would anybody see this being a problem with heat build up or heat from the heatsinks? The housing is fairly well vented and I will be running 3 fans at the top of the housing to draw in cool air. Or alternatively I could run the fans to pull air out of the housing thus drawing air in the vents at the side. Or maybe two fans as intakes and one as an exhaust?

Any knowledgeable opinions would be welcome.

i'd like to sit here and read 720 posts but its a bit time consuming i've been searching forever to try and find how to do it without a LM317 pwm but i'm not having much luck with it. what other options are there to provide the signal through it? i'm trying to understand the pwm circuit that evil posts on page 3 or so but i just don't really get what wires go where and what solders on what

I'd keep the meanwells off the heatsink. Your are trying to cool down the heatsink as much as possible. Meanwells get hot and I'm afraid it will transfer to the heatsink unless you have a super noisy high RPM fans. Just my though.

Have anyone directly connect the ProfiLux controller's 1-10V port to Meanwell dimming function control pin?

Some said It need a LF-abox or EVG-AP board in between them...isit a must? and why?

I have tested using 9V dc adapter directly connect to the dimming function pin last year and it works for both D and P type .

Do the Meanwells get hot or just warm? I have a ton of heatsink; it is probably overkill. My heatsinks together probably weigh 40 or 50 pounds.

Unfortunately I don't have a hand held digital thermometer but I could say my 2 meanwells get as warm as the heatsink. Its warm... you can touch it for a couple of seconds, then ouch. With the temp probe from the tank it says 134.5F

can anyone advice ?

Those modules provide the 0-10v signal. No module, no dimming. Easy as that.

Hey Wanted to get your feedback on this as a power supply for dimming the "D" drivers.
Click to view attachment

0-12VDC Variable Power Supply

Granted it goes over the 10 vdc, but it seems pretty comparable to building the evil's circuit along with a wall wart.

If it's using an LM317 as the output stage, you could mod it to max out at 10v. I wouldn't use it unmodified though.

I just got similar results but ONLY when I turned the pot all the way down to 1V... it got hot enough to start melting the solder at the back of the LM317. When I turn it to 5V, the LM317 gets warm, but never hot, when I turn it to 10V, it never gets warm.
FWIW, I'm using a 12V .3A power supply

I'm suppose to use a LM317? or a LM377?
The pic shows 317



One last question, if I wanted to hook multiple dimmer controllers of these, should they be wired up parallel or in series? In series, I'm guessing the GND of 1 goes to the Vin of the next? Sorry if the question seems dumb.

Thanks for all your help evil

That's odd that it gets so hot when turned down. I'll have to look into that.

You should be using LM317s for this.

If you are running multiples, they should be in parallel. Nothing should be in series on this part.

Next question please. I am wiring everything up right now. Using the ELN 60-48P drivers. How do I test the current they are putting out? Do I just connect the multimeter directly to the +Ve and -Ve of the driver's output or does it have to be under load? I tried just reading directly from the driver with no load and got weird readings. Of the four drivers I tried two seemed to be putting out about 900mA, one was about 1.3A and the other was 1.4A. I thought they maxed out at about 1.2A? All of them were putting out 48V. Also, the wires sparked when I touched them with the multimeter probes (measuring current but not when measuring voltage). Is that normal?

BTW, I am just using a 9V battery connected to the dim inputs at the moment just to get them to fire up for testing. It's a used battery and seemed to only be putting out about 6.5V. I have it connected in parallel to all 4 of the dim inputs of the drivers.

You have to test under load. To measure current, you have to wire the meter in series to the LEDs. Add it in like you would add another LED. NEVER connect the LEDs or the meter to a powered driver. Power off -> connect LEDs and meter -> power on -> test and adjust -> power off -> remove meter.

Thanks once again Evil. That makes sense.

Still waiting on my Meanwells to arrive...

I was planning to put them in the fixture (three 30" heatsinks in parallel) in the roughly 6" space between the heat sinks. Can they be stacked on top of each other, or do they get so hot that heat will build up between them and they'll fry? I'm running 12 meanwells in this fixture, so to space them all out in a pendant would be a lot of real estate...

Any tips from those running several would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Tim

Hopefully my last question to get everything running. I'm expecting my Arduino bits in the next few days. What is the consensus on the best circuit and transistors (NPN or PNP?) to use for the PWM signal from the Arduino to the ELN6-48P? Sorry but I have seen a couple of different versions here.

Thanks!

I've hit a wall and could use an idea anybody has one.

Setup:

12 3W Cree XRE's wired in series.

1 Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver

1 12V 1500mA wall wart.

1 LM317 circuit built to your spec's.


I've tested for:

120V from the wall

10.5V coming from the circuit board dimmable to 0V by the POT.


Connections:

White - Brown and Black - Blue on the AC side.

From Driver:

V+(Red) to first + pad on LED string.

V-(Black) to last - pad on LED string.

DIM+(Blue) to V out of circuit board.

DIM-(White) to GRND from circuit board and GRND from wall wart.


I plug the wall wart in first and then the power cord for the driver.

I see a brief flash from the LED's and then nothing. When I unplug, I see the LED's go from nothing to what looks like full brightness in about 3 seconds and then go out.

I'm out of ideas and could use any suggestion out there.

You can use both. It's all down to how you configure the circuit.



Like I mentioned in PM, check your dimmer polarity.

Hi everyone

I have the 48-p with a 9v wall wart connected to the dimmer wires of the meanwell. I have 12 cree q5 wired and everything lights up just fine.

Here is the question.

I set srv1 and srv2 to the lowest setting. Now I need to know how to set these where they need to be.

I have a multimeter..

Thanks so much.

anxiously awaiting this answer...

Ok here is a picture of the multimeter. I cant figure out how to read it. This is with srv1 and srv2 at the lowest setting. I have the multimeter wired in just like it was the first led in the series.

I've been looking at this pic of your multimeter for some time...only thing I can think of is that you have to read the Ampere from the same scale as the Ohms...???

What happens if you set the range of the multimeter to 10A ?

After I posted this I played some more. Here is what I think. See the top DC line that maxes out at 250. I figure that since the dial is set at 500 I could just read the 250 line and double it. So in the picture it would be
around 200. So I increase SRV2 so that the meter read 250 (which would be 500)

Then I set the multimeter to 10A which I believe is 10000. The reading I got (from the 0-250 scale) was around 12 1/2) So if the needle is at 250 that should be 10000. 250x40=10000 So take 12 1/2 x 40 = 500. That makes sense. That means if I need it at 1000 the needle should read 25 on the 0-250 scale (25x40 = 1000).

So I turned srv2 so I got that reading and nothing blew up. That is where I left off last night. I am not sure if my thinking is right and would love for someone that knows what they are doing to help me.

Thanks!!

Anyone,

I've been reading the Meanwell forum for hours now....my head is spinning. I like the meanwell ELN-60-48, basic unit. If I don't care about dimming, is this just a "plug and play" 13 LED's in series dialed to 1000mA? Is that all I could run off of one unit? I'm trying to keep things simple. If I wanted to power about 60 LED's I would need about 5 of these...correct? Are power supplies needed? if so I just need someone to tell me what to buy based on my build. My eyes hurt from reading so much! That's all for now....I'm going to keep reading and re-reading so I don't end up spending around a 1000 bucks and then mess it up. Do you plan on a "Group Buy" in the near future? Just curious. Once I start getting parts, I plan on documenting this build with CAD, solidworks, and pics to help others cut down on the 100's of pages of info.....I know each build is unique, but there has to be some sort of base standard to start from. Or did I miss something in a post?

I have my Arduino and associated bits now and have a question about the PWM circuit. Here's the circuit I am going to use:



I am using 8 drivers to power 80 LEDS, 4 for blues and 4 for whites and given that I will need to set up two different PWM signals, one for white and one for blue my questions are the following:

1. Can the output from the one transistor be split in parallel to 4 drivers or do I need a separate transistor for each driver?

2. Can the output from the LM317 be split in parallel to the two separate PWM circuits?

Hope that makes sense and thanks in advance for the input.

Hey folks,

I would really appreciate it if someone could help with a puzzle in my head.

First of all let me say that my understanding of circuitry isnt that good.

I have 2x Meanwell ELN 60-48D which will be hooked up to 9 leds each.
As suggested in this thread, i want to build the 0-10v analog dimmer.

My problem is that i cannot find the same components as found in this thread, in Europe (Netherlands). For example, in the following site http://www1.conrad.nl/ i found some of the components but they seem to have different product descriptions (tolerance, max voltage), let alone they look completely different). Do these differences matter?

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

One last question, I might be buying a GHL Profilux II Light computer to avoid the hussle with the circuitry. From what i know it allows up to 4 channels up to 10V. Am i correct to say that i can connect each driver to a seperate channel easily knowing that the meanwell's also require up to 10v?

Thanks.
(btw for what its worth i have read this thread multiple times lol)