It can be done, but you need to adjust the output voltage lower with SVR1. It takes some experimenting to get it right.

What should the target ourput voltage be for 6 Crees? Have you played with the ELN-30-27D? Chris at nanotuners acted like they are just starting to sell them and I could not find anything with a search.

Output should be about 22v for 6 Crees at 1000mA. Many of the other ELN drivers have been hard to come by, but I know we have been getting more and more in. The ELN-30-48 is already on the site, but has the same voltage issue, and only runs at about 640mA. ELN-30-27s should be in somewhat soon, and will run 6 LEDs just fine.

Just to clarify this is for dim control for the p model correct? and what diodes did you use?

Little work being add resistor to the 6 LEDs and/or decrease output voltage with SVR1 on ELN-60-48? Thanks

Yes, that's for the "P" model.


Adjusting the voltage down is fine. Adding a resistor is just wasting energy and adding heat.

For those of you looking to build the 0-10v analog dimmer for the "D" models, here is a diagram for you to follow. This will let you use anything from a 12-32v supply and still give you 1.25-10v output for the Meanwell.



Red lines are "solder traces"

All parts are available from Radioshack.

What if you wanted to build a pwm to control 4 eln drivers? Could this be done? Would it be a lot of work to add a temp sensor to dim the leds if they run to hot?

Same circuit, connect 4 drivers to it.

For a temp cutoff, it's not impossible. One thing I suggested as a really simple (but not the cheapest) option is just a Ranco temp controller. A comparitor circuit to monitor temperature can be used also, but it's a little more work, and more circuits to assemble.

I am still waiting on my ELN-30-27Ds to get to nanotuners so I can do my build. I know buckpacks would work, but I really like getting everything from on place, and they seem like the best drivers for my build out of what they offer.

Do you think I would be able to find a parts list to assemple a temp controller myself on the mouser website? Have you ever built one your self evilc66?

Ok so to build a PWM I am going to order,

PWM List

2x Diodes

2x 10K Resistors

1x 1.5k Resistor

1x LM317

1x .047uf Capacitor

1x .1uf Capacitor

1x 100K Pot

1x 555 Timer

As well as 1 Breadboard from Radio Shack.

Now would I be able to Dim 4 Mean Well ELN-60-48P dimmable drivers with the PWM powered by a 12V .4amp power supply?

Thanks Guys.

I only see V in and V out where is the Dim - and Dim +?

dim- is ground and dim+ is Vout, the LM317 is for dimming the "D" version though and it doesn't create a PWM output, it creates a variable DC output.

After a little aimless poking around on the Nanotuners website, we have a thermal cutoff that is used in the MH retro kits. It has a 75C/167F cutoff temp that you can attach to the heatsink, and wire in series to the AC side of the drivers.

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=383

Perfect, Could I wire 1 to 5 drivers on the ac side or would I need 5 seperate ones? Would the parts list I posted in this thread be good to build the pwm circuit?

Thanks.

Can the analog vr for the d models be hooked up to 4 at the same time?

It's got more than enough current handling capability to deal with 5 drivers.


Yup.

Evilc66.Can I ask why you wire on the AC side and cut off instead of dim off?
Why no connect on the DC side and do a dimming?

Either way works. The only place you don't want to connect it to is the LED side of the driver.

Ok.I see it now

Can someone please tell me what the difference between the Mean Well ELN-60-48D and the Mean Well ELN-60-48P is, considering both are dimmable?

I`m going to use two Mean Well drivers to run an easy LED setup with 12 Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White and 12 Cree XR-E Royal Blue. Since the Mean Wells can handle input voltage up to 264 VAC I was planning on plugging the drivers straight into the wall outlet. You guys see any problem with that?

All help will be much appreciated

the p series need pwm to dim. the d series uses a 1-10v signal for dimming. the d's imho would be easier to wire up for dimming, either variable voltage or using an alc controller from a reefkeeper lite/elite. the p series would be better if you were using an arduino controller or something.

you would have to either order 220 versions or rewire them, I'm sure it would be that difficult.

Ok, so when it says that a driver is dimmable, it doesn`t mean that you can actually dim the lights on the driver?
You need something else too?
A link would be much appreciated

Start reading on pg 1 of this thread, it might help. I've read this thread about 5 times, their is a lot of great information in it.

You don't have to order voltage specific models. All Meanwells can take 95-265v AC input for worldwide use.


The drivers are dimmable by default. You need to supply the signal to get it to work. Depending on which driver you order, will depend on the input signal you need to provide. Start at page 1 and keep reading. All the info you need is in this thread.

I`ve just looked at the schematics for the LM317 circuit and just want to be sure if I`ve understood what all the parts are.

To build the dim unit for the Mean Well "D"-series you would need:
- 1 x LM317, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/10-pcs-LM317LZ-LM317L-...8#ht_1654wt_939
- 1 x 470 ohm resistor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/20pcs-470-ohm-CARBON-F...d#ht_739wt_1165
- 1 x 10K linear potentiometer, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-10K-Potentiometer...1#ht_3222wt_939
- 1 x 1 uF capacitor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/50PCS-Radial-multilaye...b0#ht_500wt_956
- 1 x 0.1 uF capacitor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/20pcs-104J-0-1uF-0-1-u...d#ht_1196wt_939

So that only leaves the "1 K" thing and the red and black lines.
Is "1 K" a resistor?
And with the red lines beeing solder traces, do you mean strips of solder connecting one part to another, in stead of using wires?
And the black lines are wires right?
An the green line is also a wire, just illustrated with a different color to seperate it from the other connections?

Would be great if somebody would point out mistakes, if there are any

Yes, that's a resistor.

You are going to be waiting forever for the majority of your parts. Most of those listings are coming from Asia. You are also adding a lot of shipping charges. Go and buy the parts from the local country branch of places like Digikey, Mouser, or Farnell. One place, one shipping charge. The parts you picked are fine (you don't need a dual pot, but it works).


Yes, except the wire going to Vin. That should actually be a wire to your power supply.


They are the leads on the components.


Correct.

I see that it is a wide variety of how for example the resistors are made.
You can get Carbon Composition Resistors, Carbon Film Resistors, Ceramic Composition Resistors, Metal Film Resistors, and the list just keeps on going.

Doesn`t it matter how a resistor is made, as long as it is the correct value, 1 K for example?

If there is favoured resistors, capacitators etc. would you mind posting them Evil?

Btw, thanks for al the help so far. Finally I feel like I`m moving forward.

Most through hole resistors that are not power resistors (not needed here) are carbon composit. It really doesn't matter what you use for the resistors. They all work the same way without getting into the nitty gritty details. Capacitors are different. Some have polarity, like electrolytics. You only need to worry yourself with ceramic with this project.

Dear All,

I just received a ELN-60-48. It is the basic one.

Can I just solder the dim+/dim- wires and use them for dimming?
What is the electronic difference between the models?

Can someone post pictures of your dimmable meanwell driver so that it is clear what should be added or changed.

Many thanks,

Nick

There are 3 versions: ELN-60-48 (non dimmable), ELN-60-48D (analong dimmable), and the ELN-60-48P (pwm dimmable). If you have either of the dimmable drivers (it's clearly marked on the label, and will have 4 wires on the output side), then what you need has been covered already ad-nausium in this thread. If you don't have the dimmable version, then you are stuck with what you have.

Thanks for your reply,

Can I change the pcb of the device to e.g. the P version? Can you show detailed pictures of the board?
It can not be that different since the basic pcb is the same. Just a few resistors and caps are missing.


Thanks,

Nick

There are a lot of part differences between the two. Too many to be simple to change. You would be better off selling what you have and ordering the right one.

Yeah, maybe you're right.

Any idea where it can be had in Europe?
Schukat.de only has the bare one. Price for that one was ok I think. Around euro 27.

Nick

Look here
Those are net prices. To them you must add vat and shipping charges.

those arent constant current drivers....

but they are probably stabilized DC drivers so it puts less stress on the LEDs. anyone noticed their LEDs getting dim over time if they dont use a constant current driver?

ELN-60-48P sold out....

That was just a link to Meanwell products and not intended to say "here, buy any of these".


You want the ELN-60-48D, unless you are making your own controller.

sup evil i havent been keeping up on the thread. i was wondering if you ever build the circuit for the RKM-ALC?

Thanks

Nope. Still haven't got my ALC to use for testing. It's been a little bit of a low priority recently.

oh okay thanks. ill just wait or maybe i should buy the 48D

I ordered the P version from a local company.

Question? If I applied a pwm of zero on it, is the output then zero or 15% of max current?

Nick

Hey Evil--

My P version meanwells showed up with 4 wires on the output (which I expected) and 2 wires on the input (ac) side--with a 3rd wire cut down to where the cord sheathing is cut (unexpected, was waiting for the 3 wires on the input side).

? is: DO I need to wire a grounded plug onto the meanwell (something about working with saltwater and electricity) or can I use a 2 prong plug for them?

Sorry if you've answered this before, I've read the whole thread and can't remember seeing this particular question/answer. I can provide pics later if needed.

I've seen pictures of on both sides cut wires. I guess they didn't want to use it and were lazy enough to order different cables or those other cable were too thin to fit in the box opening.

Zero output.


No need to do anything with it. It's not connected internally anyway.

Evil,

Thanks. Not what I would like since I'like some output to drive my driver board. Now I have to think about that. Maybe a small lipo attached to the output of the meanwell to power the muproc or perhaps, more simpler, a battery. I have to think about it since I also need 10V to drive the pwm. If I drive the pwm with e.g 3V, will that power up the output?

Another option might be usage of some 3-30V from within the meanwell. A schematic would be helpful.

Nick

Just get a DC power supply to run all of the microcontroller parts. If you are into electronics, you can build a small 10v DC supply that you could install into a project box along with the drivers and the controller. The input signal for the driver has to be 10v.

Yeah, that's the easiest path. But I want to minimize the amount of parts...

You won't be able to run anything on the output side of the driver, and trying to tap into the circuitry in the driver is a little risky. You may run into problems with overloading certain parts of the driver with too much current draw.

Just wondering if I could use a 9V battery on the dimming input of the 60-48P just to get them to fire up for testing purposes before I build my controller interface? Any thoughts would be appreciated.