So if i use the 0-10V output from ReefKeeper Elite to control the dimming on ELN-60, using the LM317 simple like this?

No need to use an LM317 for that.

So you mean that the 0-10V output from RKE is PWM.
Evil, sorry for bugging you all the time. I spent a whole week to read this thread and the other ultimate led guide but obviously i still wasn't able to decrypt it

Well i got it. It will work with the D model like ELN-60-48-D. But it looks like the model P is the most popular here.

I have tryied 9v dc adapter to power up ELN-60-27P before and it work too. May be the dim up/down not as smooth as PWM cct.



I have tried 9v dc adapter to power up ELN-60-27P before and it work too. May be the dim up/down not as smooth as PWM cct.

Curious about how to hook up to the reefkeepers as well. I just bought the RKL and will buy the ALC if I can figure out how to hook it up to the 4 meanwells that my build requires.

RKL doesn't currently support the ACL unit. It's supposed to get a firmware update soon to add compatibility.

The ELN-60-48P will require a slightly different setup to work with and 0-10v system. I have been looking into cicuit designs for voltage to frequency converters.

Not a problem that it doesn't support the ALC yet, because I don't have my LEDs or drivers yet.

Let me know when you've found out how to do this. The sunrise/sunset effects that are potentially possible would be awesome to have.

thta's what i'm thinking too. my RKL arrives tomorrow! father's day present to me!

At $99, it's extremely tempting.

I may have found a super simple (even easier than the pwm generator) way to do a voltage to frequency converter. I'll build one up soon and test it.

I just picked up a new RKL from the board for $90, I plan to purchase the ALC once it becomes compatible as well:)

Evil, I ended up buying 3 ELN-60-48D drivers from Powergate, should be here soon. Do you know how the DIM+- would wire up to the ALC?

Why is it that you need a voltage to frequency converter? I've been using a 0-10v signal from a LM317 to control my meanwells (ELN-60-27P) and it has been working out pretty well except for the fact that it doesn't dim down past 333ma/string. I believe that even with a pwm input signal you wouldn't be able to get full dimming because past 333ma you probably go below the forward voltage of the led.

Not sure. Never seen an ALC up close.



A pwm signal will work a lot better for you on that driver. A 0-10v input will offer some dimming, but I had noticed that it was not very linear and difficult to control. With the options for either the pwm circuit and the voltage to frequency circuit, anyone will be able to use either driver version with whatever setup they have.

Here Evil, check it out, it's the user manual for the ALC. Would it be as simple as connecting the DIM+ wire from the driver to the red sig wire of the ALC 0v-10v connection?

http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/downl...file.php?id=186

DIM+ to the red wire and DIM- to the black. Simple enough.

Just for clarification: So you still prefer convert 0-10v to pwn using with ELN-60 P model? Or I should i go with D model for less headache and still having same good control?

Both can work, but for simplicities sake, the "D" model will be a little easier. It will also depend on the cost and availability in your area.

I seriously ordered these Tues and just got them today. $38.50 each

where did you order them from?


i must have missed it from somewhere, but what is the difference of the "P" and the "d"? is the p a pwm and the d a analog/digital.....just guessing.

Yes the D is the analog 0v-10v. I want to try and set them up using the RKL/ALC module. I ordered them from Powergate.

Evil I read this on the DA forums about the ALC module, can you explain it? Will I still need to connect the 10V power supply to the drivers?

"Just note that the ALC can not source any meaningful current. It's simply a voltage output for inputs like what you're talking about!"

http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com/viewt...?f=21&t=674

That just means there is very very little current coming from the ALC. You do not want to hook up LEDs directly to the 0-10V output on the ACL. The Meanwells use a 0-10v low amp input just for a signal to tell what percent to increase the output to the LEDs. The soul purpose for the 0-10v output on the ALC is to hook up to a 0-10v dimmer input on a device like the Meanwell.

No need for a 10v power supply if you are connecting it to the ALC.

Came across this today

http://www.ledsmagazine.com/products/19035...lLEDsJuly152009

http://www.lightechinc.com/pdfs/LED-36%20D...0mA%20rev2c.pdf


Not sure about the price but sound good to me and avaialble...

Could be interesting. Keep in mind that these will still require a specialized dimmer to get that to work, so thats more added cost.

Dimming issue is the same either for ELN-60-48P or above mentioned LED driver..... Lets see what they cost.....

Yes and no. The Meanwells can be dimmed by a 0-10v analog source, or a pwm signal (depending on the version). The Lightech driver needs a triac dimmer. I searched for a bit and they seem pretty easy to build if the costs of the built units are too high.

I rather wait for you to come up with a programmable dimmer to go with ELN-60-48P. I hope you be able to come up with something but its the dammnnn ELN-P you can't get get your hands on. I am sure once you got it you will be able to assist all of us...

Thanks for your great work and help to keep LED subject alive which make it all worthwhile and fun.....

By the way this looks very interesting...... bit expensive but could lot more LEDs and adjustable

http://www.national.com/rd/RDhtml/RD-172.html


http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM3445.html

Some further info

http://webench.national.com/rd/RD/RD-172.pdf

So I ran my lights for about 1 1/2 hours today, the fixture didn't get very hot, warm to the touch, but the drivers themselves were VERY hot. Any idea if this is out of the ordinary?

Does anyone know where I can buy Meanwell ELN-60-48D with reasonable delivery time?
I will have LEDs and heatsink next week, but no power

Thanks

Not sure yet. I haven't run one for long enough to tell you any different.



There are no US stocking distributors with stock right now. Everything will be coming in direct from Asia.

Interesting thread all - been following for a while.

I'm considering running one of the analog dim versions hooked up to my GHL. I'd like to make the most of the power available and run six MC-Es in series @ 2.5A(+3%) on the 24V 2.5A variant. The equivilent of 24 individual XR-E LEDs.

Presumably running the MC-Es (in parallel config) in series should get around any thermal runaway issues?

That should work. The dies in the MC-Es are so closely voltage matched that you shouldn't have to worry too greatly. Just pray one of the dies fails open if it does go south.

What are you planning on using 6 MC-Es for?

Cheers for the quick reply.

A couple of LED pendants. I'd like to replace my 97lt Nano hood lighting after it has done it's main job as QT for stocking the new shallow cube. The cube is the immediate LED project - I need about a 900x800mm footprint of light and I want this projected from a much greater height than normal from the top of the tank. The tank will be setup as a lagoon biotope and I want to have that top down view available. LEDs + reflector or optics make this feasable (I hope).

I estimate I'll need to run about 72 XR-E or 18 MC-E to light the whole footprint + Blues.

I'm not a big fan just yet of the MC-E for reef applications just yet. It's a lot of light in a small area. It really doesn't light up an area much bigger than an XR-E Q5. Granted, you now have a lot of light, but you need to cover a large area. 3W LEDs have more than enough power as it stands right now anyway, and you would need to cluster 4 royal blues around the MC-E to balance the color temp.

It could work, but would require some experimentation. If you haven't bought parts yet, buy only a few to test out so you aren't out a lot of money if it's not what you are looking for.

If a 120v input LED driver says it is triac dimmable they almost certainly mean that they are dimmable using one of the cheap round dimmer switches that you would use for house wiring. You could wire a junction box in the base of the stand or something, the wiring would probably be even easier than doing buckpucks etc as it should all be color coded.

I agree it isn't an ideal situation but for me it might work out well. Because I intend to light my tank from about 18" above the waterline I'll end up with a much larger beam footprint. It'll still require a lot of experimenting with optics to get it right but optics are cheap and interchangeable.

I have already tested two Osram Ostars (6 led die) which put out about 1100 lumens. These were mounted only about 3" above another deeper tank with 39 degree optics but gave a nice effect all the same. The shimmer was way more than you'd see on a MH. So, in theory, all is good.

The blues will prove to be the pain. I believe P7s come in blue but in all honesty in a shallow lagoon biotope going too blue wouldn't really look natural and I'm not planning on going one for one with the whites.

I have some design plans for running blue cold cathodes behind the display. They give a really nice and novel look when dispersed through translucent acrylic. Probably not everyones cup of tea but I'm the one sat looking at it most of the day hehe.

1100lm in a concentrated point will generate very high PAR levels, and will only be magnified by something like a tight 39 degree optic. Be very carefull. A 3W Cree can produce over 500 PAR at 6" with a 40 degree lense. Just imagine what 4 times that amount of light in the same area could do (this is not a good thing BTW).

Also, no blues in a P7.

Good advice. Should be fine though. Natural daylight is around 2000 PAR on a cloudless day. I am running at an exaggerated height above the tank so the light will have dispersed compared to a 40 degree LED running almost directly over the surface. The Ostars were run on a coral-less tank for testing purposes.

The important thing is not to be naive and run such powerful lighting immediately at full chat. Your corals will hate you; they need time to acclimatise. I'd start the unit @ 25% max and work up to a level that my corals are comfortable at (100% or not).



Yes you are correct. I thought I saw them quoted somewhere but misread - they were P4s.

Still not quite sure about the blues then. I would like these 1-10V dimmable. Might need to look at the Recom drivers or even buckpucks from an undimmable supply. I think the Recoms will drive up to 34V.

One thing about dimming, for those that don't need to do dimming changes several times a day:
Alot of general wall warts (the ones with interchangable plugs, found in electronic surplus stores) are voltage selectable. They can often go from 1.5v to 9v in 1.5v increments. Could be quite useful for acclimating purposes, and wiring couldn't be any simpler.

Not sure if this has been brought up before, but this should work with the analog dimmable drivers and is probably what I'll be doing, at least for starters.

You know, thats a good point. Simple, but effective. You could even splice in a pot later to get finer control and use the max voltage to set your max brightness.

Interesting. How would you plug this into the Meanwell ELN-60-48P?

Cut the end off and splice solder the end into the meanwell?

Would the pot that Evil mentioned go between the wall and the meanwell or after the meanwell?

That will only work on the ELN-60-48D, not the "P". For the "P", you still need the pwm circuit. You can connect 10v to the dimming wires if you want it 100% on.

how is this one for the the driver from the group buy it is kind of expensive but i have no expericence building electronics

http://www.digitallighting.com/animationfo...als/AD105-P.pdf

I wouldn't both with something that expensive. If you are going to be building an LED array, you will be able to build the circuit that I will be posting up soon. It's really not that hard and all the parts can be found at Radioshack.

Got my Meanwell ELN-60-48P delivered today by UPS. I only placed the order around two weeks ago and here is the result. There is no minimum order limit and each unit cost around £35 at your door step..





Test will begin soon. Still not sure which programmable dimmer to for. Anyone help?????? Evilc66???? Off the shelf????? anything??

Nothing off the shelf that I know of. Most pwm drivers for motors are too high of an output frequency to work. The circuit posted on page 4 with the changes I listed earlier will work fine for manual control.

Power supply arrived today. Don't have the LED yet but before I make it go pop just to reassure my paranoia - can I just connect one (parallel) MCE in series and it will only pull 3.7vf (ish) - i.e the supply will be current limited and the voltage will vary with load and not send 24V to the LED?

What is the frequency for PWM dimming anyway? 100hz? 100khz? Couldn't find it in the spec sheet on the frontpage.

Very good point. This is exactly what I was goint to do.

Does any one know if one power supply for dimming can be used for 4 drivers?

Yes.