its called BLOWN highlights..pretty easy to do when you meter for the rock and coral area which is much darker then the light reflecting off the sand bed and that will be brighter and blow the highlights just like it did in the pic. Pretty typical looking shot..like I said P&S AWB are not the best and its really easy for it to mess up and bleed colors int he red spectrum especially when they are solid like the 2 fish..then going back to adjust the WB to a more accurate one would do this no problem if the camera sensor could not ge the color correct of the fish the first time.

Yes, I understand the limitations of P&S cameras since I have one myself.

I was mainly pointing that out because the photos in this thread are mainly about showing examples of different bulb configurations, and a member who decides to get the same ratio of ATI blue pluses might not expect a blue appearance in person. However, since I have not seen the pro color or fiji pink except online, I can't say how the color should be altered.

You make a good point about showing the different bulb combos. I should have taken a photo just in auto. I was in the mode of highlighting the livestock. I will take a new photo with no adjustments.

The problem I have is that when I take a picture in auto, even with my Nikon D80, it comes out the wrong color. The only solution I have found is using Photoshop. Not to make something look like what it isn't, but to make something look like what it looks like in person.

****Edit, wanted to add this.****
When I took pics of my tank when it had MH, I could simply resize and post to the web. For some reason, T5HO tanks are a PITA to photograph and as I said earlier, photoshop is the only way to get a picture to come out looking right.

because T5HO bulbs are fluorescent bulbs...They are on a cycle and are constantly changing color you cant see it but florescent type of lighting always throws AWB cameras into haywire. The halide doesnt have the cycles and is a constant burn so it will not mess with the WB as much.

Sorry to cause havoc in the thread. Going back and looking at the picture, I would say it is mostly accurate. On the left hand side of the pic towards the back, you can see the bluer color on the sand bed and across the upper 2/3's of the tank. For some reason, the front is just popping out. I don't know if it is because of where the Fiji Pink is placed in the fixture or what. Like I said before, I will try again and see if I can get a better pic.

I know little about T-5's, but if I get a 220w Workhorse ballast I should have no problems running 4 39w tubes right? When you buy the ballast will it come with enough wiring needed for this set up? If not what will I need?

Looking to set up T5s for my 40b

Workhorse ballasts are one of the worst for T5HO. The don’t use a programmed start, etc. Just get a good ballast that’s designed for T5HO. About the same price. Check out a place like reefgeek.com

Besides a ballast and tubes, you will also need endcaps and stand-offs.

5 years of running Workhorse ballasts here and I just chuckle at those who bash them. I paid $20 each for mine. Granted they don't have the perfect start-up but the amount of time turning them on and off when applied to a reef tank is almost negligible. Unless you have used these ballasts before I could care less what someone says about them.

So the start up problem would be flickering in the tubes like a T8 shop light?

After reading your thread GobyInPeace, if they do flicker it doesn't have an impact on the life of the tube. Still deciding between cheap T5 from fishneedit.com, or just puting one together myself with a good ballast.

hoping to use some of the great tube combos seen in this thread!

no the workhorse does the instant start..there is no delay its on and off like a normal incandescent bulb

I think I have read that the ballast has a significant impact on the lumens delivered by the bulb(s). I think I have read that that also applies to T5HO bulbs, not just MH bulbs. Goby, your respect of Workhorse ballasts says a lot and makes me believe that the FishNeedIt.com lights and others that use Workhorse ballasts are a genuine deal. Can you address the lumens delivered by Workhorse ballasts relative to others you've used? Thanks.

So fishneedit.com uses the workhorse?! Well then looks like I am getting the fixture from them then!..pending reply to vresor's question of course

Hmmm, I don't actually know that FishNeedIt.com uses Workhorse ballasts. I deduced that from the replies in this thread. Probably would bear confirmation from FNI before counting on it. I've talked to them by phone and they were quite helpful about answering the individual reflectors question.

Workhorse ballasts are just OK for T5HO, they are general use ballasts that drive any fluorescent lamp. You won’t get quite as much output from your T5 as with ballast that’s specifically designed for T5. Workhorse ballasts underdrive them, not much less but still a measurable difference. Like stated earlier that they don’t use a programmed start like dedicated T5 ballast, thus you will get shorter life from your lamps. How much shorter life, I dont know. Lastly Workhorse ballasts don’t have an end of life detection, not a huge deal but something to consider. Long and short, Workhorse's are economy ballast that will do the job and are certainly better than some of the cheap Chinese stuff. Best thing is if buying ballast, get real T5HO ballast like Accustart or Universal for a little price difference, is paying $9 more worth it...you decide . If your choosing fixtures, just be aware of the ballast differences and factor that into your decision.
Not bashing...just information.

p.s. I happen to have two workhorse ballasts in my fixture. I dont sweat it I just know the facts. Like I said in an earlier post.... If I could choose the ballast I would get a different one but like I also said...it does the job.

When I started using the Workhorses T5s where still pretty new. Now there are better/more choices available. As far as loss of lumins etc... I have no way of telling. All I can do is compare my fixture to others like the TEK unit and I can honestly say that my bulbs appear considerably brighter. Anyone who has seen my tank in person will tell you this. My thinking is if it isn't broke why fix it?

But aren't you overdriving your bulbs?
Wouldn't that automatically make them brighter?
Not trying to argue or anything, I honestly don't know much at all about how the different T5 ballasts affect performance, so this is all educational for me.

Icecap maintains that overdriving T5s does not shorten bulb life. I believe their reasoning is that the start up is what determines bulb life and their's is very quick and controlled. Pushing more watts through the gas once it's "lit" doesn't deminish bulb life. At least that's Icecap's point.

Yes that's part of my point. The ballasts are cheap, they overdrive the bulbs and I am getting long enough life out of them to satisfied with their overall performance. The proof is in the health of my tank and that's all I need.

I need to re-up my lights. I am waiting on upgrading to better lights so for now I was thinking of going with:::

2 ATI 12000K Aqua Blue
1 Fiji Purple
1 UV Super Actinic

What do you think?

I am curious about reflectors.

It has been said many times that individual reflectors are what make a great t5 unit. That is why a nova extreme pro is more money than a nova extreme.

And how about the t5 from hello lights. 100-125 bucks and everyone is raving about it. Does it have individual reflectors? Do individual reflectors matter on a 4 bulb 24" unit? It seems like individidual reflectors would matter more for a deeper system like a solana cube. Am I correct on this?

yes it does have individual reflectors..in a 15g maybe overkill for softies but if you u have a 20h SPS tank it will make all the difference more light for your bux

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...fm?pcatid=16770

these nova extreme's have individual reflectors, relatively cheap though the wattage comapred to the pro's are lower

Depends on what look you want. Your selection will be white with a touch of blue/purple. I would ditch the actinic and replace it with a ATI Blue +, however. Will look about the same (ever so slightly bluer) as your selection with just as much pop, more PAR though.

We can all argue/discuss about ballasts, lamps, cooling, etc., thats just the details. With T-5 its ALL about the reflectors. With no or poor reflectors, PC's are not much worse.

So, are the tek, current, ice cap, ati, hl reflectors comparable? Is the light level testable on these reflectors?

Cool thanks, I like the bluer look anyway!!!

i just mounted the entire 48" fixture into the canopy using some 2x2 wood pieces to space it off the top for heat release and to get it closer to the water also



then made my own acrylic splash shields that actually sit over the top rim of the tank instead of against the light fixture, figure this allows the lights to run cooler



last pic is one from the back side of the canopy through the opening, this is a 3" tall opening, after a few days of running this light in the canopy my temps are just a degree or two on average higher than i prefer, so i plan on grabbing two 80mm(3in) computer case fans and wire them into a simple 12v cell phone wall adapter and have them blowing into the canopy just to circulate some heat out...

I don't have individual reflectors either. If you prefer to run your bulbs open like I do the reflectors will degrade over time and become less effective. Overdirving also contributes to me not needing them. Another thing to consider is UVL is now offering bulbs with internal reflectors.

technically they do not have individual reflectors, it's one large reflector bent into "individual" V shapes with the bulbs inside the V's.....so it's VVVVVVV instead of V V V V V V if you get what i mean.....which honestly is the same as individual reflectors....the fact that they are connected on the very edges means nothing

The reason I asked about reflector comparison was mainly to find out about the maintenance of reflectors. Seems like some reflectors will pit out from corrosion over time, indvidual or not in the open. Are some reflectors more resistant to corrosion? I have heard the newer tek reflectors are less likely to pit out. I want to know peoples personal experience running open lights.

Sure it’s testable with a PAR meter. Personally I have not tried all of them. Grim over on RC has tested a couple and made some observations.
Second hand info I have gathered:
(from good to not as good)

ATI
Icecap
Tek
Current

The top 2 are constantly "one upping" each other", so the order may change. IMO the top 3 are very good.

i am thinking with a proper splash shield used pitting would only become a problem after many years....ballasts would probably go out first, entire fixture would need to be replaced at that point IMO

how much of a difference does the internal reflector really do??? I saw those for sale too and was wonder if it was just a BS gimmick to charge more.

I like your splash shield. It seems like a great way to preserve your lights. Masterbuilder's looks really nice too. I wonder master, does yours run hot? How often do you change bulbs?

My tek with out sheild, has started pitting, its only a little over a year. The ballast did go first though, I drop the fixture in the tank.......

The problem I see is that many hobbyists fail to keep their splash shields clean and free of salt creep. I notice this quite a bit on many of the fixtures I have seen in person. Also the act of cleaning them can scratch the surface and overtime they get hazy.

thats the nice thing about my shields, easy to remove to clean and cheap and easy to make, a whole $15 for two sheets of acrylic, score, snap, glue handle/braces on top, done

Why aclylic instead of a glass top? This is what I have..came with the tank. Will it affect the lights when I get them?

I wasnt aware you ran your lights that way. Even more impressive. Maybe, just maybe, overdriving makes it a wash. If thats the case then it would make some "in hood" installations more flexible. I went with a fixture vs. a retro because I just could not fit the number of lamps I wanted in my hood due to the reflector width. I wanted at least five lamps, not so mutch for the amount of light as for the color I was looking for. Something for me to ponder.

Mark

p.s. "Biology Over Technology" is how I think too. My tank is not much different than yours. Of course it not nearly as nice or mature...the theory is the same.

Most (if not all) T5 reflectors are made of aluminum. Aluminum is corrodes quickly when in contact with water where the pH is over about 8. Drops of water that manage to splash their way up onto the aluminum reflectors evaporates quickly. As the water in the drop evaporates, the concentration of alkalinity increases thus driving the pH of the water remaining in the drop up from 8.3 or whatever it is in your tank up to well over 9 as the drop dries. Over time that results in an etched or pitted appearance of the aluminum.

Anything that would protect or passivate the aluminum would dramatically reduce its luster and therefore its reflectivity. The only answer is keeping a pane of glass, acrylic or something water tight (and hopefully clear) between the water surface and the bulb.

i am operating on the assumption and from what i have heard, that glass reduces light transfer less than the same thickness acrylic....cant prove it myself

plus working with acrylic is so much fun see!!

Got my new bulbs in over the weekend, but one of the bulbs they sent me is wrong.
I'm supposed to have a combo of 2 Blue+, 1 KZ Fiji Purple, and 1 KZ Coral Light II.
Instead I have 2 Blue+ and 2 Fiji Purple.
Out of curiousity, I tried it, and was quite shocked at how nice it looked.
From everyone's comments, I would have expected everything to look much too "pink" with 2 Fiji Purple bulbs, but that's not the case at all.
Basically, it looks blue without being TOO blue and the coral colors practically GLOW. It's really gorgeous. Looks much nicer than under my 150w MH with Phoenix 14k bulb. The combined PAR isn't bad either, at 320.
I'll try to post some pics later today.
I'm considering actually just keeping this combo.

where do you order both ATI and KZ bulbs from the same place?

i think reefgeek has

ReefGeek.com carries KZ, but they don't have the KZ Coral Light II.
AquariumSpecialty.com has the Coral LIght II and they're who I ordered from. Course they ended up sending me the Fiji Purple instead of the Coral Light II...

Weet,

After trying several combos AND after seeing other peoples pictures on this thread.... I finally ended up making one last change. 2 Blue+, 2 Fiji Purple and 1 Aquablue Special. This is fairly close to what your running now. I am happy with this combo and to STOP ME from trying anything else I sold all my other lamps. This is it for at least 10-12 months when its time to replace, I bet I stick with it.
I dont know what too say about yours, it would be hard for me to decide between what you have or replacing one Fiji with the KZ II. Me...prob end up replacing the one Fiji, I like a whiter look than some people. Will be watching and see what makes YOU happy.

Thanks for the thread, it helped me and I am sure it has helped many other people....good idea....good thread.

Mark

My current combo has a more 14,000K - 20,000K MH look to it color wise. I didn't go for that look specifically, just how it ended up when I was recommended my bulb combo. I'll admit I didn't like the purplish nature of the color at first, but it kinda grew on me...

I haven't taken pics yet but to give you an idea of how it looks....
You know all those coral pics you see posted by vendors online, and you say to yourself, "There's NO way those corals look that bright or that good in real life"?
Well, under the 2 Blue+, 2 Fiji Purple combo, my corals really DO look like that.
It's crazy.
They really GLOW, there's some major fluorescence.
BibleSue is here right now and she agrees with me, she thinks I should just keep this combo and not try to trade out the one Fiji Purple for the KZ Coral Light II.