What is the smallest tank that a 70w MH can be installed in?

I have a 2.5 gallon with a custom wood canopy and I was thinking of installing it there and making it a clam tank. Aside from heat issues, which I plan to battle with the use of several fans, is there anything else I should be concerned about?

I also have a 3.5 gallon TruView tank, that I would rather put the MH in, but the canopy is acrylic and I am afraid the heat will melt it.

Any thoughts? Opinions?

Sounds like enough to me. I personally dont like SE bulbs just because DE can do the same thing better but its all personal choice. Nice avatar btw, hypnotic.



You'll find the heat issue is more than just fans. On a tank that small you'll be battle evaporation problems and sure it "can" be done but the question remains "should" it be done. In my opinion it seems like overkill for a tank that small but if you do plan to run a 70w on a 2.5 you'll need to keep it a good distance above the water, 2-3 feet probably.

For the 3.5 gallon its probably a better option for that halide. Metal Halide wont melt it but it can warp it. Also keep in mind that you would be better off using glass due to the UV transmissions of that bulb.

I ended up putting 2 x 18w pc in the 2.5 gallon pico and attaching 2 fans: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=149946&hl=

I modded the 70w mh into the canopy of the 3.5 gallon. Masha_1 suggested I use the metal casing from a halogen flood lamp, which I did. I retro'd the lamp into that, attached 2 pieces of UV glass under it as well as a piece of acrylic about 0.25" thick. It looks great - all concealed under the canopy! I am also running a fan back there. I did this all last night, so I have one more thing to do - drill a couple of holes in each side of the canopy and in the front for ventilation.

Awesome, sounds like a good setup!

OK, I have a question about ballasts for a a set-up. I found an outdoor flood light that uses a mercury vapor bulb, and is 70 watts. Now, can I use that ballast for a 70 watt HQI and DIY a rig, or would it just be cjeaper to but a JBJ Viper?

waddup, everyone!

i've just ordered a sunpod (150w) and i expect it to arrive mid-next-week. my tank consists mainly of softies and lps, but i intend to keep more demanding corals in the future.

my question to you all is:

what schedule (in terms of hours/minutes) should i use to acclimate my current inhabitants to the new light i'll be using?

i'm hoping to avoid as much agae growth as possible during this process. any suggestions and input would be very much appreciated.

TruenoBlues -

My research says you can not use the ballast from a Mercury Vapor Lamp to power a Metal Halide.

Look for DIY kits or Advance Metal Halide Ballasts. I run a Magnetic Advance 175w MH ballast to fire a Hamilton 175w 14k.

Just my 2 cents.

All,

What is a good height to position lighting above a reef tank.

More specifically...a PFO reflector (DIY), 175w 14K MH; (2) 32w DualActinic PC's - over a 30 gallon oceanic cube??

your opinions would be awesome!!

Jeff

Also a note on the clam pico- You'd likely be able to keep only one or MAYBE two clams in a pico, and they would be limited to croceas or maximas. All others would get too large.

Can we get a brief right up on acclimation tips and tricks for people who are making a switch to MH?



I have a 175w PFO pendant and ballast and going to either get a ushio 14k or the Iwasaki 15k. I currently only have softies in the Biocube 14g

1- what is a suggested height to start?

2- should I run screen layers to help cut down intensity? how long do I keep on there? how do you know when everything is used to the new lighting?

3- What hours should I run it to start? Should I run my PCs still and then off for a while with MH on and then back on once the MH period is over?

4- Any problems to look out for? will I get more algae growth? maintaining MG levels to ensure coralline growth continues?

hi all...i just picked up a 150 watt 10k coralife MH pendant yesterday for $100. i have a 20 Long and was wondering what would be the best way to break the light in over my tank and about how high should i have it?

thaks

josh

give it 2 hours of light 1st day, then add another hour for every day till eventually your at 7-10 hour photo period.

start 18 inches high then work your way down to about 7-12 inches over water this is guestamate ive never acclimated my tank with a new light this just seems logical to me. if you have no live stock i would say just throw it on heh..

my MH sits about 7 inches from the top of my water have to add a gallon of water every 2days o make up for evaporation.

hello i have a bio cube 14 and with the stock hood ive started noticing heat issues and its not even hit 65 degrees out side yet

i was thinking of switching to a hanging or clip on setup with MH or pc's and cover the top with a custom cut piece of glass or something

sorry that this is not truely on the MH topic but its the best place i could find to post it

JUST BOUGHT for my BC14: 175w 20K SE USHIO from PA: 65.00

I have a 10k in there right now and it is too yellow/white for me. I really like the blue look and wish I could just have actinics on all the time.

I dont know what to expect...I dont know if I should have gone with the 14k or if I will be unhappy with the 20k?

I hope I didnt waste the money on something I dont like...not used to buying something that I dont know anything about, especially something that has so much responsibility for the aesthetics of your tank.


I dont have any demanding corals right now, but want to get rid of some stuff like xenia and try some more serious pieces (not right now, but soon). what do you suggest would be ok under these lights?

montis?
acan?
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.
.
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Was the 20k Ushio too blue for you?
That's what you said you bought in the opening sentence.
Try 14k or 15k.
Look around at other people's aquariums in the Member Tanks Forum and pay attention to the lighting over tanks that you like the look of.

no, they came with 10k and that is all I have seen on it. I want something more blue and dont want to have to fabricate actinic into the pendant. So I just bought the 20k today thinking that I would be pretty pissed if I bought the 14k and it wasnt blue enough and had spent the money, so I just jumped into the 20k.

I dont see how it could be TOO blue, I like blue, but I have never even seen this bulb so who knows. :shrug:

just anxious to see it I guess.

I keep hearing that the mogul end bulbs do nothing for photosynthetic purposes that are only acheived through double ended bulbs. I wanna know did I waste my money buying a magnetic ballast with a 20k single ended bulb or will it do the same as the double ended bulb.

Whomever told you that doesn't (forgive the crudeness) doesn't know their head from their ass. Probably the MOST common light out is a 250 SE (mogul) on a magnetic ballast. SE bulbs are seemingly making a comback over DE bulbs.

Does MH use up a lot of energy? The energy in my house gets cut off really easily even if I don't use much appliances. Like I could turn on the A/C on low, computer, 40 watt satellite fixture and it would be fine, but if I turn on the TV and rice cooker then the power cuts off.

A 150W MH with an electric ballast will use just over 150W...

TVs can be tricky, most likely under the 150W range, but the rice cooker, that could be a few hundred watts. You'd have to check out the box. Going from 40W to 150W isn't gonna make your life any easier tho

hi i glad you started this thread i was wondering if you can help me. my father is a electrician and said he could build me a mh light from extra 150 w lights and ballasts he has aqquired. would these bulbs that are probly used for commercial building be okay and is 150 w to much for a 20 g high tank im setting up? i dont no much about these sorts of things and am not sure if theres a difference between my dads lights and aquarium lights.

I just received my new/used (2-3months) Sunpod today and excitedly placed on 9 gallon tank and fired up. Has been on now for about 2 hours and corals are responding well, had the screen ready just in case.

Now as I look at the tank I really cannot detect much of a difference in the amount of light in tank between the two different hoods, even though I am getting technically 22 more watts. Old: 48 watt PC

I have read about the different types of light waves but could someone give a little quick tutorial for dummies.

I guess I thought it would be brighter than what it is. Is this light better than my old one?

Awesome and helpful thread. I have the 24 inch Current USA SunDial T5 HO 4x24W w/ Timers & LED lights on my 25 gallon tall reef tank. I'd like to be able to keep the whole gamut of corals, though I guess I can do without clams if I have to. What is the best light for me? I would prefer a T5 style light if it could function as well as a hotter halide that makes me have to run crazy fans and top off all the time but I also want to be realistic.

When I bought lights, all I knew was that "metal hallides were the best, T5 HOs next and so on. Little did I know how complicated it got!

Thanks in advance.

also, is this a good deal? http://cgi.ebay.com/24-Metal-Halide-Aquari...1QQcmdZViewItem

I have a 6gal Nano Cube and am considering MH. Can I do that? Like electronics compatablitiy and it being such a small tank and allt hat other stuff?

yes you can, 70w halide would be good i think maybe a 150w if you ever plan to upgrade.

That ebay model seems kind of shady with no mention of the type of ballast. T5s and MH are very close in lighting with benefits on both ends. I would highly suggest all newbies to read this article that discusses the various light sources and the basics of light itself:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-12/newbie/index.php

Dopamine can you post a pic of your new 20k bulb? Im also thinking of this bulb.

whats better to use for my 30g tall reef (sps, lps, zoas, leather, etc.)

1. radium DE 20k
2. jbj DE 10k with 2x65 pc actinics

option 2 is my current set-up. i want to switch to 1 because of 2 reasons: more open space on the top, and less less heat. the radium 20k has more blue so i thought it could cover the actinics. what you guys think?

What wattage? 250W, you can probably go either way. 150W, and definitely number 2. A 30g too tall for a 150W radium to be very much good at all. It has a higher percentage of blue, but a 20k radium has like half as much overal light intensity as a 10k...

thanx

Hey thanks for that article. I was looking at the Gallileo LED system and the Solaris. Expensive, but considering it. Specially, regarding the life of MH vs Led. If MH changed every 8 months at $80 X 2= $160 ( would have 2 lamp for my canopy size) , the LED are good for 50 000 hours about 5 years. They also pose no heat problems, so no chiller needed. Anyway was wandering if you red any article about their performances.

I remember when the Solaris was coming out, and it still is way too expensive for me. Basically, they are good, from the few tanks I've seen, but I think the price will lower as LEDs start to get used in the wider commercial market. I can't remember any specific articles, but I'm sure you can do a search for threads on this site of many discussions on LEDs.

I am just wondering if a single 150 watt bulb over a 20g long would cover enough of the tank.
I am in the process of setting up one now but it just doesn't seem like a clip on fixture or a sunpod would cover enough of the tank with 1 single bulb. I am shooting to grow SPS so I am looking for any lighting recommendations.

I have a 150w halide over my 20L in a canopy. It lights up every inch. It's about 6" over the water. If you do go the canopy route, you can always supplement with T5 lights too. Lots of options out there.

I have a few pieces of SPS and they're growing like weeds.

I have a 20k 150w on my tank right now but feel like it is too blue esp. with two pc actinics so i had to put in a 10k pc to make it not so blue my question is i have read that the 14k doesn't have as much par as a 20 or 10k, also do the different k's 10 14 20 burn hotter because heat is an issue i have the nano customs 150w upgrade and i don't want to melt the plastic splash guard or anything right now my water temps have always been perfect but i think i want to get a different bulb any suggestions? Thanks!

which is better and why, single or double ended?

When you say 6" over the water, do you mean the bulb itself, or the bottom of the canopy? Also what K rating is your 150 MH?

Your setup sounds close to what I have planned!

Question for the seasoned veteran:

Is a 70w 14000K Metal Halide pendant over a 10 gallon AGA too much? All softies in the tank right now but I have the intent of adding SPS and other light-loving corals. Thanks in advance.

GREAT Thread.

Let me know if this is a good plan or not.

I have a 92 Gallon Corner Bowfront, and am doing a DIY lighting setup and this is what I was looking at.

2 - 250 DE HQI with electronic Ballast's and hung from 12 to 8 inches above the water.
2 - 36" Actinic's T5HO looking at 39W
2 - 24" Actinic's T5HO looking at 24W

Then just the various Moonlights.

Does this sound like a "good" setup or do you think it is too much? Any help would be great.

Sounds like plenty. Make sure you get good reflectors for the T5's.

Do you think it's ok to have a 250w MH over a biocube 29?
And also should I get 14000k or 20000k?

OK. So I'm getting sick of my Viper K2. I'd like to increase the output of the light and increase the spread of the light too. I was looking at various new reflectors, but was wondering if I'd have to get a new ballast for it. I was looking at a few different reflectors and was wondering if they were compatable and if they'd give me the evenness I'm looking for. ( I think the Viper has a crappy reflector and it isn't very good at distributing my lights. It's point lighting that doesn't have the reflector to spread out the love.) Firstly, this one http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage..._reflector.html The lumen max 3 at the bottom. Anyone have one?
Also this one http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~act...es~vendor~.html It's a bit cheaper but still seems like a much better reflector.
Are both of these compatable with the Magnetic ballast used by the Viper? OR would I have to upgrade to a Icecap. The Magnetic ballast is good enough to light a phoenix bulb so I'm not in a hurry to replace it.

Alternatively, I might get a 18" Nova Extreme SLR for supplement. What do you think? Should I get a new reflector? Can I get a compatable one? Or should I bite the bullet and get a 250 like a reefstar? I'm kind loathe to do this for at least another 7 months as I have an extra phoenix 14K bulb and will soon be popping the question and don't want to drop the extra 200 dollars to get a reflector and a ballast.

I am looking into getting the current outer orbit this week for my aquapod 24. I'm having a hard time deciding if I should go with the 150 or 250 mh. I like the deeper blue color so more than likely I will be getting a 14k bulb 20k is to blue for me. But I am not sure if the 250 will be to bright. Any suggestions on which I should purchase?

What would be a good set of Metal Halide System at a bargain price?

I saw an Odyssea 250 W Single-Ended Metal Halide 15000 K for 139...good bargain? bad product? opinions please.....

I am new to the hobby and just purchased a 34g Solana. Not caring for the disco ball I decided to go with a 20" Sunpod 150w 14k HQI. I recently saw PodRod's Solana and as I learn more and more I eventually would like to have a similar system. She has the 250w and was wondering if I should have gone with that vs the 150w?

Thanks!

Has anybody used reeflux and if so are thay good.
Also has anybody used lumanarc reflectors and are thay as good as thay say.

what size will i need in a 14 gallon biocube thanks

what size will i need in a 14 gallon biocube thanks

is 250 watts too much for a 12 gallon ap?

It hasn't been posted, but depth has a lot to do with the wattage and K temp selection for the bulb and tank.

if someone wiser then me knows the penetration for each bracket of wattage it would not only help me but future posters on this thread

Do 250 watt DE bulbs require a higher range of constant voltage from the socket to the ballast to run the bulb at normal kelvins / PAR then SE ?

Mine dims and goes purplish yellow ( brand new dual 250 watt electronic coral vue ballast ) when the voltage drops below 118.7. ( on a separate circuit that was newly wired in two weeks ago by a professional I trust.

/\

Anybody ?