Very good advice has been offered here! The only thing I would add is this:

Find a local reef club -

People that live near you are going to the same stores as you and will have similar experiences.

Often others are willing to help if you have problem.

You can get often get free corals, algea, and or rocks just asking or waiting and watching. For example, many people throw out TONS of xenia and chaeto because it grows too fast.

Corals are much cheaper from other people than from the LFS. If you but a frag from a colony that someone grew from a frag then you know it can grow well in a tank!

I agree with all of this. If you're lucky, the LFSes included in the club's 'sponsors' will be very helpful as well. There are two good ones around here and they are temporarily housing the fish of people in the area that don't have power right now, helping them keep the tanks airated and warm, and so on.

Here's some things to have or do if you run out of power:

1.) Car or Lawnmower batteries and power converters that you can rig to run pumps, airstones, heaters, etc.
2.) Several thick blankets (or good outdoor sleeping bags) to wrap the tank in to keep it warm.
3.) If you have a grill, use it to warm water and you can slowly pour that water into your tank to keep the temp up.
4.) Do small, < 10%, water changes at least once a day, if you can, but do it even more slowly than usual. Because your water will probably have far less flow than usual and may not be going through the filtration systems, you are building up polutants, especially with hormones and such given off by stressed livestock, that is not getting removed through the normal means. You need to maintain the best water quality you can. You should do a true 10% water change at least once within the next week after the power comes back on.

If you use an airstone, like we ended up doing (was far more energy-efficient than any of my pumps), keep in mind that it does create a mini, poor skimmer. Remember that the bubbles created in the skimmer's column carry proteins to the surface. The bubbles from an airstone will do the same thing, but to a lesser extent. Just make sure to 'skim' the surface of the water with a cup every now and then, where the foam is collecting on the surface from the airstone(s), and scoop some of that water out. (Thanks very much to a knowledgeable LFS owner for this info)

The other thing I would be concerned with is the back-chambers of your tank. It will be just as stagnant as the front, so if you have chaeto, LRR, etc, in the back, you should test for die-off in the back. You don't want to turn the return pump back on and have it pump a whole ton of ammonia and nitrites into the main tank you've worked so hard to keep alive. Even if everything is fine, I might siphon the water out of the back just to be sure.

Hope this is helpful!

[quote name='halfpint' date='Jan 7 2007, 01:54 PM' post='1005103']
Let your tank mature for at least two months after the cycle if you want it to be more stable. I have done this with 7 of my tanks and I haven't had a crash yet.

Does this mean just have live rock for two months after cycling? No snails or anything? Thanks!

Reef Keeping is patience, but if it is cycled properly you can start to add stuff

FTFY

It's a good thread. It'd be better if some of the banter, unanswered questions and debate were moved elsewhere though--including this post requesting to do so.

has anyone brought up personal safety?

salt water + electricity + you = bad day.

a few things that may seem obvious...

electrocution protection
- be observant when messing in the water. make sure you are not dripping on or near electrical equipment.
- never touch electrical equipment with wet hands, especially salt water.
- when equipment instructions indicate the use of a GFI outlet, use one. its prolly a good idea to use one regardless.
- make sure electrical equipment is protected from leaks or spills, mainly in cabinets containing refugiums, ATO tanks, or other water holding equipment and/or plumbing.

fire safety
- don't use extension cords as a form of permanent power supply.
- use surge protected power strip and not multi outlet blocks or "cobra heads".
- do not plug a power strip into another power strip.

use common sense and be safe.

+10

Use one even if it doesn't say, they are cheap and serve a great purpose.

I'm sure this has been mentioned but a UPS power supply is your best bet. I run one on each tank.

1. If you let your Live Rock dry out, you've just made Dead Rock.
2. I'm sorry, but did you just say you shook your tank to make sure the rocks are stable?
3. That's a pretty Copperband Butterfly you have in your 2 week old 10 gallon tank. FAIL.
4. You used Morton's sea salt because you ran out of Instant Ocean? Go do a water change.
5. The LFS that sold you that cleaner wrasse is probably laughing at you right now.

but remember MH wont work with GFI because of the spark needed to get the light going, it will cause the GFI to trip...

this post is 100% inaccurate if your lighting is set up properly and you are not exceeding the circuit's rating.

Here's a good checklist to go over when you are thinking about posting a new topic.

• Don't post ambiguous, short messages about a fish problem with no pictures and expect to get any meaningful advice.
• Go ahead and ignore replying posts that give advice you don't want to follow, can't afford or don't want to accept, but be prepared for possible continuing problems.
• Don't wait too long before posting. Problem reports that begin with "I lost three fish today, two yesterday and one the day before that…." are probably not going to end well for the rest of the fish (no matter what advice you are given) now that its day four.
• Check the answers you get from strangers on the Internet with information from published sources. "Fish Doctorz" advice may sound really good, but he could be some junior high kid with his first tank just "chillaxin" and tossing out random bits of information on the forum because it makes him feel important.
• Check the FAQ! You most likely are not the first, (or even the fiftieth) person to post a question about HLLE - research the forum before posting commonly asked questions.

This list, and more help on finding the information you need, can be found here:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/12/review2

I thought about getting one, but then I thought, why? I hooked my tank up to my 875VA UPS which is able to run my 178W computer for about 17 min, and it said 45 mins or something. Is going without electricity for that long really gonna be that bad? I know it's not good, but is it worth spending $100+? And yeah, it is that expensive, because if you get a dinky little 300VA unit, it's gonna be good for maybe 10 min.

If anyone is going to get one anyways, though, get one of the Geek Squad ones from Best Buy when they're on sale. They're manufactured by Cyberpower, whose UPSes Best Buy also sells.

I'd recommend an APC back-UPS ES, actually - mostly because APC is a treat to deal with and their stuff tends to last a very long time (geek chick speaking, it's my job to know). You'll run longer if you do NOT keep your lights on the UPS - I don't know what harm a 12 hour lighting outage would do to a reef tank, but I daresay circulation and filtration are more important.

That's a very good point. Depending on the back-up's capacity, you'll want to figure out just how much draw your equipment will have and adjust accordingly for how long you may be out for. Some circulation the whole time is better than full strength for a short bit and then nothing.

Here's a nano noob question. Someone mentioned a brown algae bloom as being the norm in a new tank. I've setup a 2.5g (third tank for me 10g 2yrs, 29g 6mnths) as my first pico tank and it's started an algae bloom. I'm not alarmed or anything but I am curious why the bloom occurs as 'normal' and what the 'best' member of the CUC is to deal with it in a pico environment?

It's going to die off in a few days/weeks. I wouldn't worry about it much.

Thanks Codeman. I'm not worried about it at all, just curious. Knowledge is power and I'm just wondering why this 'always' happens and is viewed as normal. I'm familiar with the basics of the nitrogen cycle so is this some byproduct of a stage in that cycle or something else?

Best advice EVER.

Thanks for all the great advice everyone, I have yet to start my setup but it's very helpful to get such a wide variety of first-hand information

Just had to say, I've been reading all aspects of this site for a week now (I'm a fast reader) and this is a fantastic idea! Thanks!

Look for a good experienced and informative marine LFS. RESEARCH RESEARCH AND RESEARCH every thing you buy whethe rit be a fish, coral, shrimp, invert, equipment.

This was also posted in the identification forum, but it is of greater use to beginners:

Please avoid killing or trying to fish out things that you want to identify before you get at least a rough identification. It is hard for other members to identify something that's not underwater. A picture is very important for a conclusive ID, but sometimes a very detailed description is sufficient.

Finally, it's kind of arrogant to ask "How do I get rid of it?" after "What is this?". Most hitchhikers are harmless. Those that are called "bad" are only considered so in our captive tanks, and many animals (such as fire worms) have previously been used as scapegoats for problems with introduced corals/fish.

Why no wc during cycling?

Many people still support that (note the date of the post), but now the soft-cycling proponents have made this a serious debate.

Bump Bump

Just wanted to keep this rolling for all the beginners..lots of information, misinformation, and debate on everything from the adv and disadv. of skimmers, how often to feed fish, do we need to supplement, what kind of fish not to have, good bad and ugly about live rock, etc...

Please check this out..you might find answers to about 70% of your questions somewhere on these 12 pages

Some random suggestions:

If you have a question about water chemistry or algae problems, it's helpful to post your water parameters (i.e. test kit results). Just saying "my parameters are perfect" is not helpful if you're having a problem with those so-called perfect parameters.

Also, if you previously had PC or other low to medium lighting for your corals and have since upgraded your lights to MH (metal halide), T5HO fluorescent, or LEDs, then you have to acclimate the change in lighting. If you don't acclimate, some corals may bleach or even die. What you must change is the intensity of the light (i.e. having lights on for a shorter time is not going to affect intensity). Two options:
using layers of mesh/screen to partially block some light and remove one layer at a time
if the light can be raised, then keep it high at first and gradually lower it.

DON'T buy books, go to your library and check them out. After you find the one you like best then if you want buy it.

I spend a lot on a book and I really don’t like it and at the end I loved Saltwater Aquariums For Dummies and its only $15 on Amazon. SO don’t buy any book just because someone says it good, check them out yourself.

Should check Amazon then to find what i want. Tnx for the idea!

as always, slow=good fast=problems.

Do you need a skimmer--no, will it help probably (I like to use them, but have gone without)

Live Rock--the 'fresher' it is the better, I personally like to grab it out of the shipping box the day it comes in. Still has more life than after sitting in a curing tank with no lights and mediocre circulation at the fish store for a month.

live rock can have hitch hikers--95% of which are great to have.

Let the tank sit for 2-3 months with just live rock and maybe a clean up crew--you'll be amazed at what you see--I once found a little 1/8" sea slug, black with white/blue markings. I was able to see him regularly until I added fish... But it will amaze you the life in the tank from just the rocks.

As was stated before, we usually overstock our tanks--this is where a skimmer can be helpful. And a refugium. Both allow you to better 'clean' the water.

Suggestions on water chemistry and dosing (addition of chemicals or other supplements affecting water chemistry):

The normal ranges for common water parameters (for a tropical reef tank) can be found here. If your tank's levels are in the normal ranges, don't try to go chasing after the "perfect" number.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

The vast majority of supplements are either not helpful or are formulated with an aim to attract misinformed beginners (i.e. "accelerating" coralline growth or iodine for helping crustaceans molt). Likewise, tanks with a majority of soft and LPS (large polyp stony) corals should have no problems with water changes, which should always be your first "dosing" option. Thus, it pays to get a good salt and mix your own saltwater.

Don't dose what you are not accurately testing for. Accurately means you can trust your test kit. Research what type of product is most recommended for your application. Dose only as much as your tank is using, and check that other things won't be affected.

The link below is a good compilation of reef chemistry articles. It can be daunting, but understanding water chemistry is important to a successful tank.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/show...ad.php?t=102605


EXTREMELY USEFUL BEGINNERS' GUIDE TO WATER CHEMISTRY
by Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley
Part 1: The Saltwater Itself
Part 2: What Chemicals Must be Supplemented
Part 3: pH
Part 4: What Chemicals May Detrimentally Accumulate

^^ /agree

Hello everyone I'm new here and trying to find my way around when I found this thread. Figured it way a good place to start so sorry if I'm in the wrong place.

Hi I'm here to learn.

to nano-reef.com

Search and read as much as you can first. If you can't find answers from searching, post a thread in this forum.

Some great tips that I need to and will use. I just purchased 28gal Nano and am in the process of setting it up. Definitely not as easy as I thought but I'm still excited so that good.
I have lots to learn.

wildly random tidbits I wish people would have taught me:

- learn about the importance of alkalinity and calcium...especially alkalinity. visit bulkreefsupply and look into their two-part starter kit.
- buy a good salt mix and an ro/di unit, and begin making your own water
- go slow, and keep your hands out the the tank if possible
- avoid non-photosynthetic corals IMO
- avoid clams unless you have proper lighting, and an established tank.
- avoid gorgs, sea fans...and mandarins...
- even at 5-6 months, your tank is in its infancy...treat it carefully and be prepared for ugly algae blooms
- consider running a media reactor with carbon and GFO
- if you dont test it, do not does it...iodine, strontium....all that crap is a waste.
- ignore Ph....focus only on keeping a stable alk. Ph will take care of itself...
- dont buy things to make wife/kids happy....youre the expert, not them.
- magnesium helps keep alk. stable.
- Aim for a salinity @ 1.025
- damsels are mean....6-line wrasses can be mean, maroon clowns are mean
- peppermint shrimp may or may not be reef safe
- sally lightfoot crabs are not reef safe
- you need some sand stirring snails
- www.coralmorphologic.com
- www.bulkreefsupply.com
- www.reefbuilders.com
- don't take the LFS employee's word for anything

+1 (all good advice! nice one burtbollinger)

Never buy on IMPULSE. Your tank WILL suffer for it 99% of the time. DO YOUR RESEARCH over and over again! Never take just one persons or websites advice, ask as many questions as possible!

Most importantly. Do NOT underestimate the power of the darkside!

if your not a paitent person, stick to freshwater....

You forgot to add:

Keep some benadryl in your bathroom cabinet in case you get a rash from having your hands in the tank too much...

(This happened to me yesterday...don't know what it was, but I had a rash goin' on...the benadryl worked though)

In my experience, they are "reef safe" until they've eaten all your aptasia.
Then they look for other similar stuff to consume voraciously.

It is important to take notes on the water clarity on a daily basis. However, this is not enough. I will advice that you test the water for PH, ammonia, salinity, or other tests every week as well.
Weekly or perhaps monthly water changes are crucial in any aquarium.

all animals you get should be similar in size to avoid fighting. lawnmower blennies are hard to keep and also aggressive. most crabs including hermits will kill anything they can get their hands on. i hear red leg and scarlets are the exception. damsels are aggressive. if you want a blenny, the smaller the better. ones shaped like lawnmowers with the huge heads and thick bodies are much more aggressive than ones shaped like the bicolor or tailspot. personality > color. always ask the lfs to feed the animal in front of you whatever you will be feeding it. animals that eat pellets will usually eat anything. make sure they love the food they're eating, not spitting it out or just pecking at it. small, peaceful, easy fish to start with. gobies are good starters except the sand sifters. most fish will not get along with fish that look similar to it. don't get two of the same fish for this reason or two of the same species. ie, don't get two blennies. shrimp are delicate. zoas and mushrooms are easy. use egg crate to cover your tank from fish jumping out. you can use dead sand or rock and seed it with live sand/rock. everything should be quarantined for 2 months to be absolutely sure. diseases can travel on anything including sand/rocks. the only way to get rid of ich in your tank is for it to be fishless for 2 months. once you have ich you've already lost the battle. the best course of action then is to quarantine your fish. things reported to be reef safe or peaceful usually aren't. a mantis shrimp is not a pest. give it to one of the many people who would love to take care of it. same with any hitchhiker you don't want. whenever you don't want something, take it back to the lfs. never buy an animal to take care of a problem. unless maybe a snail. don't get a dragonet.

You bet! Theres not enough money in the world for this hobby...

1.Always have mixed salt water ready to go at least 20% for your tank volume.
2.Turn off the electricity when working with your tank especially during water changes, heaters tend to crack and burn when left on during water changes.
3.Remember to turn everything back on and open all valves as appropriate.
4.Enjoy hitch-hikers they are not all bad, bristle worms are good.
5.Try to keep you hands out of your tank, I know it takes control.
6.Check the stability of your stand occassionally.
7.Alway have towels ready and handy when doing a water change.
8.Do not answer the phone when doing a water change as this almost always ends up with a flood.
9.If you hear a noise from your tank in the middle of the night thats unusual, get oob and look.
10.If a fish is listed as a jumper and you put it in an uncovered tank and can't find it the next am look on the floor.
11. And finally do water changes, commit to do them, or do not get a tank.
12. Oh yea, pipe fish, sea fans, scallops, morish idols, basket stars, nautiluses, jelly fish, sun corals, carnation corals, will never survive unless you are either a public aquarium or an advanced hobbiest, so please leave them in the ocean where at least they have a chance.

lol thats if your cat didnt eat it

this thread was very helpful



I like to always have towel near by, it might just be because I'm still aquascaping and adjusting things a lot, but I think it's solid advice. It always sucks to pull a wet hand out and have nowhere but the shirt to go..

Thanks for those tidbits I have noted them cause I know I will need them in the near future.