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2.CUBE.ING


d0lph1n

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Sunset (left) & Sunrise (right)
Daytime (left tank)
Nighttime (right tank)

January 15

 

- 2 x 7.2Gal, Mr Aqua cubes, low iron glass

- Ikea bookshelf
- In tank Tunze Reefpack 200 with DIY skimmate collector and external air-valve
- dry rock, dry sand, some small pieces of live rock
- NP XL biopellets, in the filter part of the reef pack 200
- daily dose of ESV 2-part

- daily dose Zeovit products and/or Fauna Marin
- ESV salt
- 2 x DIY 13 LED light, no lens. The lights run on a reversed schedule controlled by ReefAngel (plus custom relay box) with a smooth transition from day to night from one tank to another for a total of 18h/day.
- pH 8.2
- salinity 34-35, alkalinity 7-8dhk, calcium 400-440, temp. 78F
- undetectable phosphates, nitrite & nitrate.
- 3gal water change every 1-2 weeks.

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  • 2 months later...
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Looks like you have an interesting setup with the two tanks on reverse schedules. Good idea, since it should keep pH stable over a 24 hr. period. I can see that once the rock work gets more coral growth that this will be be even nicer.

 

One of the toughest things about these little tanks is that the support equipment looks so large in comparison. What I have done in the past is create a black acrylic 'shroud' to cover equipment that can't be hidden (either full length or hang-on-back, depending on what needed to be covered). If done right, it can blend in with the black background for a neat and tidy look.

 

As you experienced, shrimp in a small Nano are tough on corals that are fed. The only way i found to make this work was to first feed the shrimp a few pellets, then while they are busy gorging, quickly feed the corals.

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I appreciate your advice.

 

The idea with the reverse light schedule on the same body of water seems good but it didn't work for me, so I'm dosing 5-6ml ESV Bioionic (each part) daily to stabilize the pH around 8.2 and alkalinity around 8dkh.

 

In my original plan, all the equipment was supposed to be installed only in the right tank. Unfortunately, I had to add a powerhead in the left tank to improve the flow.

 

The shrimps have been on pellets diet but I had to leave town for a few days and I asked somebody inexperienced to feed and to dose my Alk&Ca. Lesson learned...

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Hey, sick aquascape dude. Can't believe no one else is interested in this tank! Makes me want to get a little cube...

 

I'm glad you like it cuz I hate it ;).

Too much work, too many resources....very little results. I regret for not going with a bigger tank or with a bare bottom cube and 100% water changes.

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You guys kill me with your DIY skills. Can somebody please come and live in my building!

 

Are you sure?

 

Let's take a look at my diy skills.

- I took 1 perfectly looking IKEA bookcase and cut and drilled holes in it. That's a terrible decision for an aquarium stand, to begin with. Too much humidity and too many salt water spots on and around the bookshelf.

- drilled holes in 2 very decent low-iron glass cubes

- transformed a brand new $200 tunze equipment in a $50 biopellet reactor/filter/skimmer

- spent unnecessary amount of money on a Reef Angel controller and accessories to create a electric wire chaos. I have 18 electrical plugs, all full, and at least 30 electrical wires for sensors, led fans, cooling, ATO, moonlights, probes etc. etc.

- probably, i spent more than double the amount of a decent LED lights on my custom LED lights to realize it's way too much light. The white channel goes to 10% and blue channel to 30%ish.

- still not happy with the results.

- countless hours of work

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Guess you got to find what works best for you. Props for trying something a little different.

 

Thanks, it's been a huge learning experience for me.

 

I still think the reverse light schedule might work if there are more rocks and macro algae in both tanks. Right now, there are no macro algae....except few little bubble algae once in a while ;)

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I still think the reverse light schedule might work if there are more rocks and macro algae in both tanks. Right now, there are no macro algae....except few little bubble algae once in a while ;)

 

I've noticed a tendency creeping into the hobby to over complicate these little systems. One ends up with one 'fix' trying to fix another 'fix', etc, and an unbalanced aquarium.

 

I have no macro, no 'fuge, no filter media and my pH stays between 8.2 and 8.4. I dose a Kalkwasser/RO mix via my ATO, so that helps to keep pH stable 24/7.

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Are you sure?

 

Let's take a look at my diy skills.

- I took 1 perfectly looking IKEA bookcase and cut and drilled holes in it. That's a terrible decision for an aquarium stand, to begin with. Too much humidity and too many salt water spots on and around the bookshelf.

- drilled holes in 2 very decent low-iron glass cubes

- transformed a brand new $200 tunze equipment in a $50 biopellet reactor/filter/skimmer

- spent unnecessary amount of money on a Reef Angel controller and accessories to create a electric wire chaos. I have 18 electrical plugs, all full, and at least 30 electrical wires for sensors, led fans, cooling, ATO, moonlights, probes etc. etc.

- probably, i spent more than double the amount of a decent LED lights on my custom LED lights to realize it's way too much light. The white channel goes to 10% and blue channel to 30%ish.

- still not happy with the results.

- countless hours of work

 

Well now that you laid it out like that it does sound rather ridiculous, you are right. Do you need to be put in the corner?

 

:P

 

You may have over complicated your build but atleast you had a vision and followed through on it. I had a custom sump and ATO designed only to realize how poorly designed they were. Live and learn.

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I've noticed a tendency creeping into the hobby to over complicate these little systems. One ends up with one 'fix' trying to fix another 'fix', etc, and an unbalanced aquarium.

 

That's exactly what happened with my tanks.

 

I have no macro, no 'fuge, no filter media and my pH stays between 8.2 and 8.4. I dose a Kalkwasser/RO mix via my ATO, so that helps to keep pH stable 24/7.

 

That's a very healthy approach.

I've been happy with the ESV 2-part for the past months. Just purchased 2 gallons of this stuff :)

The Kalk/Ro mix via ATO sounds more appropriate for small nanos, I forgot why I've never considered it....right right..I remember now...I'm cooling the tanks via fans...so a lot of evaporations, especially during summer, uneven evaporation from day to day since my ap. doesn't have AC.

 

I could dose Kalk based on the pH readings, but I can't trust the pH probe anymore after some unusual pH readings mislead me into thinking that it's something wrong with my tanks yada yada yada, one new pH probe later I'm still double checking the pH probe readings with regular pH test kit.

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Well now that you laid it out like that it does sound rather ridiculous, you are right. Do you need to be put in the corner?

 

:P

 

You may have over complicated your build but atleast you had a vision and followed through on it. I had a custom sump and ATO designed only to realize how poorly designed they were. Live and learn.

 

I need a bigger tank to help me forget this nightmare asap ;)

 

That's right, I've learned few things trying to reinvent the wheel (I know, what an idiot :)). On top of that, I replaced the sandbed twice in the left tank and removed it completely from the right tank. Also, I switched from Zeovit to regular biopellets to NP XL pellets (nobody new anything about other than gen instructions). All these experiments set me back few good months.

 

Now that I've finally stabilized this monster, I'll remove unnecessary equipment and procedures.

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Couple thoughts on simplicity based on many years with my 12g which may help with your next build:

 

1. Dosing: When dosing Kalk I am looking at the Cal and Alk, especially. pH is checked once in a while, but hasn't wavered in the whole time the tank has been set up. With gravity fed ATO's there is virtually no risk of spiking the pH since the ATOs deliver only a small amount of water each 'burble'. Its also really easy to adjust the Kalk to RO water ratio (if needed) during the year to maintain appropriate Cal/Alk supplementation, too. A small sliver of tape on the outside of the bottle to give a reference for how much RO water to fill to (the rest would be Kalkwasser) is all that's needed. Mag should be checked once a month. I found the pH probe too problematic when I used it on my previous 50g, so I have used a simple pH kit which has an indicator dye. It is not necessary to have super accurate, continuous pH readings IMO, just need to know if it is within the 'accepted' reef tank range (~7.8 - 8.4) over a 24 hr. period.

 

2. Flow: A simple appropriately sized return pump is sufficient for flow if used with an oscillating nozzle device. For a bigger aquarium, up-sizing the pump and adding a second flow device would be apppropriate.

 

3. Lighting: I have a somewhat different take on lighting since I'm not a fan of the trend to over light a tank (sometimes people's lighting is equivalent or greater than the noon-day sun) for extended periods. In reality, most corals don't live under these conditions, but live at least a few meters under the surface (and often a lot further down). I'm working with simple lower wattage LED strips that don't need a fan or heat sink and hardly send any heat into the aquarium. Just need enough of them and individual reflectors to get appropriate light into the tank for the corals. The caveat is that many (but certainly not all) Acro species, many clam species and many anemones appreciate more intense lighting and that is the appropriate use for high-power lighting. My tank room got up to 80 degrees this summer, but the tank with these LEDs never went over 81.5 degrees (no fans needed).

 

4. Heating: Best quality you can buy. Buy an extra and set it 2-3 degrees lower as a backup in case the first fails.

 

5. Maintenance: 2X/wk (10% total) WCs work best for my system. Not too much trouble, but not as disruptive as once a week changes. Vacuum top of SB/turkey baste LR with second WC to removed detritus, clean back chambers weekly of detritus, clean pumps ever 3 months. Feed moderately (back off a bit if cyano/algae starts up). Check Cal/Alk bi-weekly (I have a few Acros that need the stability) and adjust if needed.

 

That's about it...good luck!

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Couple thoughts on simplicity based on many years with my 12g which may help with your next build:

 

1. Dosing: When dosing Kalk I am looking at the Cal and Alk, especially. pH is checked once in a while, but hasn't wavered in the whole time the tank has been set up. With gravity fed ATO's there is virtually no risk of spiking the pH since the ATOs deliver only a small amount of water each 'burble'. Its also really easy to adjust the Kalk to RO water ratio (if needed) during the year to maintain appropriate Cal/Alk supplementation, too. A small sliver of tape on the outside of the bottle to give a reference for how much RO water to fill to (the rest would be Kalkwasser) is all that's needed. Mag should be checked once a month. I found the pH probe too problematic when I used it on my previous 50g, so I have used a simple pH kit which has an indicator dye. It is not necessary to have super accurate, continuous pH readings IMO, just need to know if it is within the 'accepted' reef tank range (~7.8 - 8.4) over a 24 hr. period.

 

2. Flow: A simple appropriately sized return pump is sufficient for flow if used with an oscillating nozzle device. For a bigger aquarium, up-sizing the pump and adding a second flow device would be apppropriate.

 

3. Lighting: I have a somewhat different take on lighting since I'm not a fan of the trend to over light a tank (sometimes people's lighting is equivalent or greater than the noon-day sun) for extended periods. In reality, most corals don't live under these conditions, but live at least a few meters under the surface (and often a lot further down). I'm working with simple lower wattage LED strips that don't need a fan or heat sink and hardly send any heat into the aquarium. Just need enough of them and individual reflectors to get appropriate light into the tank for the corals. The caveat is that many (but certainly not all) Acro species, many clam species and many anemones appreciate more intense lighting and that is the appropriate use for high-power lighting. My tank room got up to 80 degrees this summer, but the tank with these LEDs never went over 81.5 degrees (no fans needed).

 

4. Heating: Best quality you can buy. Buy an extra and set it 2-3 degrees lower as a backup in case the first fails.

 

5. Maintenance: 2X/wk (10% total) WCs work best for my system. Not too much trouble, but not as disruptive as once a week changes. Vacuum top of SB/turkey baste LR with second WC to removed detritus, clean back chambers weekly of detritus, clean pumps ever 3 months. Feed moderately (back off a bit if cyano/algae starts up). Check Cal/Alk bi-weekly (I have a few Acros that need the stability) and adjust if needed.

 

That's about it...good luck!

 

Thanks a lot. I generally agree with everything you said. Especially the flow & LED advices, I found it the hard way. I had no idea how much PAR 13 leds without lens can push in a 12 cube. 7 blue leds at the lowest setting push 50-100 PAR at the bottom..

 

Everybody is saying a lot of flow is good..an insane amount of flow is even better.

Maybe, but recently I switched to low flow in the left tank..i went from 600 gal/h theoretical value to 100 gal/h and when the led dimmers reach the highest values (which are very low anyways) a phead is blasting 200 gal/h for 3h and for another 1h at night.

 

In the right tank, the filter is pushing 200gal/h...plus the incoming flow from the left tank ..and 1-2 hours a day a phead is blasting 200 gal/h. being as BB tank and very few rocks, detrius is not a problem.

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Thanks a lot. I generally agree with everything you said. Especially the flow & LED advices, I found it the hard way. I had no idea how much PAR 13 leds without lens can push in a 12 cube. 7 blue leds at the lowest setting push 50-100 PAR at the bottom..

 

Everybody is saying a lot of flow is good..an insane amount of flow is even better.

Maybe, but recently I switched to low flow in the left tank..i went from 600 gal/h theoretical value to 100 gal/h and when the led dimmers reach the highest values (which are very low anyways) a phead is blasting 200 gal/h for 3h and for another 1h at night.

 

In the right tank, the filter is pushing 200gal/h...plus the incoming flow from the left tank ..and 1-2 hours a day a phead is blasting 200 gal/h. being as BB tank and very few rocks, detrius is not a problem.

 

For my setup, I have figured a rough estimate of 125 PAR at mid point in the tank. The LEDs are only 1/4W/each, so, considering the wattage, that's not too bad. Some of my SPS are a little higher up than the midpoint, so perhaps 140 PAR (I should have access to a PAR sensor next week to get more accurate readings). Nice thing is the light coverage is even throughout nearly the entire tank with little shadowing and no annoying disco lighting effects.

 

My pump puts out a rated 250g/h minus ~15% for the oscillator interference, so its around 200-215g/h. Totally adequate for my livestock with the Acros being positioned to get as much of a blast as possible.

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What's the deal with the sand? What problems is it causing?

 

 

The 1st substrate was too white...too dense..and I think it was leaking silicates. I wasn't stirring it at all.

the 2nd one was strange too, I didn't like anything about it and it developed a very weird coloration:

The 3rd one, Tropic Eden Premium Tonga Reef Flakes, I had it for aprox. 2 months, it's closer to the Zeovit specs, and it looks and behaves nicely. I'm stirring it every 2-3 days and vacuum it with every water change:

In the right tank, all the detrius was gathering under the Tunze Reefpack so I've decided to switch to barebottom for an easier maintenance, but I don't like the looks at all...so far. Since I don't have to much LR, maybe I'll added half inch of sand.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Today I sold all the sexy shrimps.

 

I applaud this move.

They're cool to watch 'n stuff...... til they start nibbling your corals.

I've dealt with that myself & in the future I think I'll stick w/Anemone Shrimps, which I've had great experiences with.

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Ok, I need to check w/you on how the tanks are connected.

I'm asking because I would like to possibly try something similar.

Did you just drill two holes in the side of both tanks and use plumbing fittings to connect them? If so, what size did you drill the holes? Do you like how it works? How's flow between the tanks?

What would you change in regards to that if you were to do it again?

Thanks for any info.

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I applaud this move.

They're cool to watch 'n stuff...... til they start nibbling your corals.

I've dealt with that myself & in the future I think I'll stick w/Anemone Shrimps, which I've had great experiences with.

 

:) They are cool to watch, but mine spent all their time behind the big rock.

The day I decided to sell them, i saw a lot of shrimp larva all over the tank.

 

P.S: I thought sexy shrimp is an anemone shrimp.

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