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Matto's 17.4g Rimless Newb Aventure!


mattclark82

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FTS as of 7/1/13

 

9845031913_e6eddfb1a3_c.jpg


Updates:

 

Current Setup

  • 17.4 gallon GLA 60-L Rimless tank, w/ Glass-Holes overflow
  • DIY ADA Style stand
  • DIY CREE LED light, 14 RB 7 NW w/ Typhoon controller
  • 10 gallon sump w/ Tunze 9002 & Eheim EH1250, Jager 100W heater
  • 20 # LR and 20-30 # LS

Coral

  • Various mushrooms, ricordea, ricordea yuma
  • Various unidentified zoathids and palythoa
  • Aussie Holiday War Coral
  • Aussie Red Blasto
  • Orange Leptastrea
  • Green Planet Acro
  • Green and Rose Millepora

Fish

  • :tears: RIP "Lenny" Tailspot Blenny

CUC

  • Red-leg hermits
  • Mexican cerith snails
  • Astrea turbo snails
  • Narcissus snail
  • Mini brittle starfish


I am setting up my first reef tank. :blush: I have had a fun high light CO2 injected planted tank for several years now

BUT

now am looking to join the saltie side!!!! B) I started off with a bucho questions here: Planing my first nano-reef

So here is my planned build, and some of the work that has been done thus far (at the moment, not much, but it is STARTED! whewweeew - can you tell I am excited omgomgomg )



STAND
I like the clean look of ADA stands, so instead of paying massive cash, I built one for around $100. :bling: Here are some photos of it pre-stained. Hardware and staining is tomorrows task.
Without doors:
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Doors not hung yet:
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DIY LED ARRAY
Here are some plans for my DIY LED array. Please provide input if I am missing something or you can see some improvement: (don't mind the horrible spelling, or drawing :eek: )

Array from above:
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Front and side view of rough idea of no-optics casting, and "50 deg" cast, Rapid LED does not have a 50 deg, but without a protractor when I drew this up, I guestimated. I think that I might benifit from optics, to keep the light tight witout too much overspill. At the top of the tank, even with "50 deg" the light is well mixed it seems. RapidLED sells optics for the XP-G (for the neutral whites in my build) in 40/60/80, but for the XP-E (royal blue) they have 40/55/80 . . . thinking the 55/60 degree optics all round with the array 6" from tank top?
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So, this will be a work in progress, figure I would start a journal now, as any input along the way will be awesome. :D

Thanks in advance.

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Thanks for your other reply, it does seem like everyone is saying the 2:1 ratio is the best, and I figured, what the hell, if add a few more LEDs, then the ratio and coverage gets much better, for less than $15. Lol. I finally smarted up, the LEDs are the cheaper part on a small build hahah

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Now that I am looking at it, my Mean Well ELN 60-48D that is running the 7 NW, I will have to add one more to that driver.

 

Do you think that I can string two RB and a NW for the fuge on this driver?

How much light would we be needing in a fuge with macro algae to keep it happy, I was thinkning three LEDs over about a half of a 10 gallon sump?

Might just be as easy to add another NW into that string for the display, maybe taking out a RB on the other. Ideas!!!!!! I am sure someone will have one that will make me look really dumb and save the day! Lol

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Just got done staining the stand. A mix of Ebony and Dark Walnut. I like the contrast. Poly tomorrow (thinking really nice and glossy), and hanging the doors.

6128954668_2436f9d5f7.jpg

 

Debating a rimless tank. I built the stand to fit a 20H AGA, and I would put a GLA 60L, but I am not sure I want to take a hole saw to it. Glasscages.com, seems like a lot of people knock them. Any alternatives, that will drill my holes and maybe build an overflow in? If it looks way pricey, I might just nab the plan-jane 20H and upgrade maybe sometime later.

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UPDATE:

Finished stand, it is all polyed, and hardware is mounted. Pictures do it no justice.

6148388113_26ec07aff4.jpg6148939202_912f88283c.jpg

 

I made some changes to my LED design, but did not update any diagrams. I planed on Driving only 7 LEDS on a Mean Well. . . .after some reseach, I might be smoking doing this. soooooooo

The Mean Well ELD-60-48 driving my 7NW will also drive *1 RB + 1 NW + 2 Red (saw this somewhere)* mounted to a heatsink for a fuge light (know it might be overkill, but being driven by my NW controller, it might be dimmed down).

 

And I plan on saving up for a Reef Angel Controller. It is pricey, but for 220$ I can get ATO, PWM, controls for all of the equipment, (I was gonna spend more than this on LED controller, pH/Temp, and ATO, sooo duh!) and really really wide and open customization, have you all seen the cool LED effects.

My only concern is, there are only two PWM outputs on the base setup (will get the expansion later), so no moonlights unless I setup the RB string to dim real low past "lights out". So here is the current plan:

* Reef Angel

- Mean Well ELN 60-48P ----> 14 RB Mains

- Mean Well ELN 60-48P ----> 7 NW Mains + 1RB/1NW/2RED Fuge

- ATO w/ Toms Aquatic Aqua Lifter Vacuum Pump AW-20

- Eheim Jager 100W Submersable (RA temp span set wider than heater?)

 

Also, gonna invest in a Green Leaf Aquariums 60-L, and planning on :scarry: drilling an Glass-Holes.com Super Nano w/ teeth overflow (300gph) and one 3/4 Loc-line return kit.

 

Did some thunking about the sump too, please please please critique, as this is my first sump:

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Minimum Freeboard = 2.20 gal = 1.825" max drop in display (of course, gonna add some opps here)

Skimmer: Tunze 9002 Nano (4.9" L x 2.1" W x 13.3" H)

Return Pump: Help me Decide, Eheim 1250 or 1260?

My head not including fittings will be between 3'11" to 4'2". The return will have a sidestream to the fuge, and maybe a sidestream recycle to cut the flow back if needed. Also, should split the returns to two bacj to the tank, or one?

Please, :grouphug: comments / :tears: critiques / :rant: flames

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No thoughts on the return pump? Eheim 1250 or 1260 (overkill?). I am looking for a queit and cool motor. My 20 gallon fresh water approaches 79 degrees in the summer, with just a Eheim Ecco 2236.

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michelleshusband

1250 is silent compare to others i've used. should be enough flow.

a smart person told me that you don't need too much flow through the sump, just need a lot of flow in the display tank.

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1250 is silent compare to others i've used. should be enough flow.

a smart person told me that you don't need too much flow through the sump, just need a lot of flow in the display tank.

That's what I understand, just thinking it would be great to not have 2-3 bulky powerheads hanging in the display, but I am sure I won't be getting away with that.

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The build has a setback. The aquarium came in broken. Not GLA fault, it was very well packed. The UPS driver I have is a dumbdumb. They have always been really great for me, till I moved to this house.

He didn't even ring the doorbell . . . I was sitting 10 feet away when he delivered it. Actually, when I got the email, I went out and some people were staring down the huge box on the porch. . . .

 

So I am gonna go through the motions, get another. I will have my rimless aquarium!!!

 

Going on vacation to NY this week, so gonna be a bit before I can get back to this.

 

Matt

 

Edit: let me add, Orlando at GLA had another aquarium at my door the next day. He is awesome.

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  • 1 month later...

The display aquarium, sump aquarium, Tunze skimmer, return pump, heater, and return and overflows (gl#######) are here. I will be working on the setup this weekend. I did not think of how large the Jager 100w heater was. Will yave to make chages to the sump.

Question, the glass-holes overflow kit said to estimate the water level to be 1/2 to 3/4 of the height of the teeth. Wanting to max the water level in the tank safely, i was thinking of placimg to top of the overflow box a hair below the rim. Does anyone have experience with this kit and rimless tanks?

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Cut them holes . . .

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Painted the back . . . .

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Finished . . . .

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Next: Install overflow and return kit, plumb down to unions . . . . measure and get glass cut for sump, build sump.

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Looks really good so far
+1

Thanks!!! :lol:

 

 

 

Looking good! Nice and clean looking so far. :)

Thanks sir! I read your entire thread. . . awesome tank! The GLA tank of mine is basically the same as yours, just cost me more :/ I just like Orlando at GLA, he is prettymuch B.A.

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I am in a bind. The 100 W heater I purchased, I really can not fit it into my sump as I plan.

 

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I am going to move the baffle for the 'fuge over a bit for a heater maybe, but there really is not one I can find that will fit next to the pump . . . too long. Suggestions? I really rather not have a Hydor ETH and pvc to tubing fittings on the return

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  • 5 weeks later...

LEDs on the way!

 

Display:

 

14 CREE XP-E RB w/ 80 degree optics driven by ELN-60-27P

7 CREE XP-G NW w/ 80 degree optics driven by ELN-60-27P

 

'fuge:

 

1 CREE XP-E RB

1 CREE XP-G NW

2 Osram 660nm Red

Driven by a 350 mA moonlight driver.

 

Now I need to find a PWM controller I like, as RapidLED's daylight controller ramps up channels to 100% PWM in daylight program mode. The RA would be nice, but looking at alternatives.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Taking the time to scan hard copy notes = winning.

 

I emailed Orlando today about their 91-L.

Got a pretty good quote on freight.

Excellent email communication.

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Can't believe I haven't commented in here... :slap:

 

Nice build!

I love the stand concept/color....

 

:D

 

Thanks!

 

 

Taking the time to scan hard copy notes = winning.

 

I emailed Orlando today about their 91-L.

Got a pretty good quote on freight.

Excellent email communication.

I write up ideas at work, only way to stay sane. I am a planner. Thanks!

Orlando is awesome. I got an aquarium at my front door the day after received my first one that the UPS guy broke. His communication is lightening fast.

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Thanks!

 

 

 

I write up ideas at work, only way to stay sane. I am a planner. Thanks!

Orlando is awesome. I got an aquarium at my front door the day after received my first one that the UPS guy broke. His communication is lightening fast.

Definitely.

Can you comment on the build quality?

Seams, silicone, etc.?

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