ADA 60-P sumpless, HOBless MACRO experiment

[tako]

Current FTS (7/16/12):

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I was in SF's Japantown this weekend and decided to stop at Aqua Forest. It's a tiny shop, but it has some amazing planted tanks. Needless to say, I came home with a new ADA 60-P.

 

My old biocube 8 (never made a thread about it):

 

 

The new tank in its rough state after the transfer (pardon the mess):

 

Equipment:

• 2 Rapid LED PAR38 (four color version)
  
• Vortech MP10es
  
• Hydor Slim Skim Nano
  
• Via-Aqua 100w titanium heater
  
• DIY ATO with 2 float switches
  

 

A couple of things out of the norm for nano-reef that I intend to try with this tank:

• Keeping a clean appearance with everything inside the display
  
• Putting a lid on an ADA (blasphemy)
  
• The possibility of no chemical media
  
• Growing macros with a protein skimmer
  
• Growing macros with PAR 38 LEDs
  
• Reduced water changes
  

 

My landlord isn't really fond of aquariums, so keeping it under 20 gallons without a sump was important. I could have gone with an AC or a HOB fuge, but I liked the new Slim Skim and wanted the challenge of hiding things in the display. The lack of filter will mean I'll likely get rid of my purigen and chemi-pure elite (although I may try to squeeze some in the bottom of the skimmer).

 

I plan to have a decent selection of macros in this tank despite having fairly blue LED lamps. I observed growth of the red titan algae in the bc8, but have yet to try any type of green macro. The chaeto I have grew very well under a 9w 6500K CFL, so I'm thinking it will do fine in the display. Future macro plans are for a mix of red and greens that are legal in California.

 

In my biocube 8 I had reduced to my water changes to every other week and had much greater stability in parameters as long as I dosed for alk. I'm hoping I can reduce the amount further with this tank, but the lack of a fuge on an opposite light cycle my hurt me.

[Rabidgerbil38]

Lovin how clean everything is, can't wait to see some swaying macro from the vortech.

[tako]

Lovin how clean everything is, can't wait to see some swaying macro from the vortech.

 

Thanks, It will be much better after I get that purigen and cpe out. It's sitting in there for now to try to keep things stable from the transfer. Don't mind the floss on the vortech; it works wonders for cleaning up the sandstorm after playing with the rocks. The cables are sloppy and the lamp fixture still has the packaging on it, but it will be taken care of in time haha.

[DirtyC]

maybe get that box that supernip makes for your mp10 and media

so you get a more clean look

[tako]

maybe get that box that supernip makes for your mp10 and media

so you get a more clean look

 

Yeah I thought about something like that, but that would really obstruct the view on the side of the tank and putting the vortech on the back of a long tank doesn't sound ideal. I decided I'm going to try to fit some of the purigen in the skimmer outlet. I may have to cut the bag and remove about half of it, though.

[doppelganger]

nice! following along!

[psidriven]

nice, were you at the cherry blossom festival?

[tako]

Yep, it was insanely crowded. I couldn't find any parking spots near the store so I ended up walking a few blocks through the crowds with the tank.

[tako]

Small update on the livestock. No casualties except for a damaged duncan head and a lost mushroom that wasn't attached before the transfer. Shrimp and crabs are acting like nothing happened, but my clown still seems pretty stressed out. He really loved the cave in the rocks and "hosted" the channel out front; I tried to recreate it the best I could, but it's not the same for him. He's been zooming around against the glass, but he's still eating and not breathing hard.

 

I'm waiting on dry rock to come in the mail, because the only local store that has it wants $7.99/lb. Multiple stores told me to just use freshwater base rock, but I was a little scared of that. I think I ordered way too much, so I'll either throw the extra in when I sell the bc8 or sell it cheap if anyone local wants it.

[SnakPak]

Very nice upgrade!!

[tako]

Hopefully this vortech quiets down after it breaks in. It's louder than the skimmer and it hums at an annoying frequency. I've tried realigning it several times and I'm only running it at 7/12 LEDs on reef crest. The pulse modes are just unbearable.

 

Skimmer still isn't skimming consistently, but the micro bubbles have stopped escaping. It also isn't doing crap in terms of surface skimming. I may try to see how it does if I stick a bit of floss in the intake, but I'm afraid it will start to draw more water from the bottom to compensate.

[kriskristofferzen]

I was in SF's Japantown this weekend and decided to stop at Aqua Forest. It's a tiny shop, but it has some amazing planted tanks. Needless to say, I came home with a new ADA 60-P.

 

My old biocube 8 (never made a thread about it):

 

 

The new tank in its rough state after the transfer (pardon the mess):

 

Equipment:

• 2 Rapid LED PAR38 (four color version)
  
• Vortech MP10es
  
• Hydor Slim Skim Nano
  
• Via-Aqua 100w titanium heater
  
• DIY ATO with 2 float switches
  

 

A couple of things out of the norm for nano-reef that I intend to try with this tank:

• Keeping a clean appearance with everything inside the display
  
• Putting a lid on an ADA (blasphemy)
  
• The possibility of no chemical media
  
• Growing macros with a protein skimmer
  
• Growing macros with PAR 38 LEDs
  
• Reduced water changes
  

 

My landlord isn't really fond of aquariums, so keeping it under 20 gallons without a sump was important. I could have gone with an AC or a HOB fuge, but I liked the new Slim Skim and wanted the challenge of hiding things in the display. The lack of filter will mean I'll likely get rid of my purigen and chemi-pure elite (although I may try to squeeze some in the bottom of the skimmer).

 

I plan to have a decent selection of macros in this tank despite having fairly blue LED lamps. I observed growth of the red titan algae in the bc8, but have yet to try any type of green macro. The chaeto I have grew very well under a 9w 6500K CFL, so I'm thinking it will do fine in the display. Future macro plans are for a mix of red and greens that are legal in California.

 

In my biocube 8 I had reduced to my water changes to every other week and had much greater stability in parameters as long as I dosed for alk. I'm hoping I can reduce the amount further with this tank, but the lack of a fuge on an opposite light cycle my hurt me.

i like your par38s. I am going to possibly upgrade if i can sell my light fixture b/c i like the look of having the bulbs over the tank. Have you read the threads about the LEDwhole sale par 38s? I was looking at the rapidpar38, ledwholesale (which are much less money but seem to be less tested), or evils, or 2 of boost leds. still wondering which way to go?

I like the look of the tank. Could you explain a little more about your (2) ATOs? thanks!

[tako]

i like your par38s. I am going to possibly upgrade if i can sell my light fixture b/c i like the look of having the bulbs over the tank. Have you read the threads about the LEDwhole sale par 38s? I was looking at the rapidpar38, ledwholesale (which are much less money but seem to be less tested), or evils, or 2 of boost leds. still wondering which way to go?

I'm not sure what I think of the LED wholesalers lamp. The ability to dim the LEDs separately is nice, but it uses and unknown type of LEDs that we have no idea of their efficiency or spectral output. It's also only 12w while the mainstream par38's are 17-21w with Cree LEDs. Another problem is that lamp only comes in 30 degree optics, as far as I know. That's a really tight beam and it will have to be mounted well above the tank; my swing arm lamps would never work unless you had 3 bulbs. I think 60 degree optics are ideal if you intend to mount them from a fixture attached to the stand or tank.

 

I personally like the rapid LEDs the best because they have great color rendition using four colors of LEDs not just two, but the nanotuners is also a great bulb. If you intend to keep mostly SPS then I'd buy three.

 

I like the look of the tank. Could you explain a little more about your (2) ATOs? thanks!

I have two float switches that I purchased from Aquahub mounted on a bendable plastic strip. I haven't added them to the tank yet, because I need to make a new mounting bracket for this tank. They're wired into relays that control an aqualifter pump connected to a 2 gallon jug. I plan do hide them and the heater behind the protein skimmer. The skimmer will also help to limit the surface disturbance created by the mp10.

[kriskristofferzen]

I'm not sure what I think of the LED wholesalers lamp. The ability to dim the LEDs separately is nice, but it uses and unknown type of LEDs that we have no idea of their efficiency or spectral output. It's also only 12w while the mainstream par38's are 17-21w with Cree LEDs. Another problem is that lamp only comes in 30 degree optics, as far as I know. That's a really tight beam and it will have to be mounted well above the tank; my swing arm lamps would never work unless you had 3 bulbs. I think 60 degree optics are ideal if you intend to mount them from a fixture attached to the stand or tank.

 

I personally like the rapid LEDs the best because they have great color rendition using four colors of LEDs not just two, but the nanotuners is also a great bulb. If you intend to keep mostly SPS then I'd buy three.

 

 

I have two float switches that I purchased from Aquahub mounted on a bendable plastic strip. I haven't added them to the tank yet, because I need to make a new mounting bracket for this tank. They're wired into relays that control an aqualifter pump connected to a 2 gallon jug. I plan do hide them and the heater behind the protein skimmer. The skimmer will also help to limit the surface disturbance created by the mp10.

 

float switches sound cool, be sure to include some good picks of your installation please!

[tako]

Here's a couple pictures of them in the biocube. I'll post some once I finish the setup for this tank.

 

[kriskristofferzen]

Here's a couple pictures of them in the biocube. I'll post some once I finish the setup for this tank.

 

nice pics. i will probably be adding one of these top of kits to my do!aqua 60-p. I am now looking into ordering your lights as well....dont worry our scapes and tank glass are different though!

[tako]

Awesome. I saw the do-aqua 60-P in the store and it looked good. You wouldn't notice the difference unless you had them next to each other. I think you'll enjoy the lights; I haven't found anyone that was disappointed with them.

 

 

I received shipments of dry rock and some macros from reefcleaners. The rock was excellent and only $2/lb (the LFS wants $7.99/lb of dry!). I said I'd like several pieces and would like to avoid very flat rocks. The box had six very porous rocks only one of them was flat. Two of the rocks are very orange, so hopefully that doesn't cause any problems down the road.

 

The macros I ordered made it alive, but unfortunately the box didn't have the codium or fauchea I ordered. He quickly refunded me the cost of them, but I'm still kind of bummed because I don't see much of the fauchea out there. I love the sargassum and I'm really hoping these LEDs can support it. It was still a very good experience and I will order again.

 

(pics coming soon)

[tako]

I'm about ready to give up on this Hydor skimmer. As a basic protein skimmer it does an ok job and it's pretty quiet, but their claim that it can surface skim is a lie. I've tried adjusting the height of the skimmer and even using a sheet of acrylic to block the slits and force it to flow just from the surface. The pump just doesn't have enough suction and the front chamber isn't watertight so almost none of the surface water is actually drawn through the skimmer.

 

The only solution I've found that sort of works is placing the mp10 near the surface to break it up. I also need to call vortech, because over the past two weeks the mp10 has gotten even louder with an annoying rattle. I've tried realigning it several times. I have one of the original xbox360's in the same room that's notoriously loud, but even with that running I can still hear the vortech on reefcrest 50%.

[Zo0k365]

I'm excited to see this tank packed with macros. I like the idea of a planted marine ADA.

[tako]

FTS 5/1/11

 

So a lot has changed. A couple weeks ago I added a Tangaroa goby and candy cane pistol shrimp. The pistol shrimp is pretty small and has taken up residence in a very porous rock. Unfortunately, it and the goby have yet to pair up again because the goby likes to stay in the back of the tank out of view except for when it's feeding time.

 

As you can see, I added the rocks from reefcleaners and haven't seen any ill effects. The rocks with the orange color don't appear to be leaching anything. I'm not sure I'm happy with the scape, though. The left side feels too two-dimensional.

 

The macros I have are from reefcleaners and Yoshi. She really hooked me up with a bunch of nice stuff

in return for a tiny stuffed Yoshi . All the reds in the photo except for the titan, the caulerpa, and more are thanks to her. I'm going to compile a list of my macros and sources in the future.

 

I bought a firefish and some purple cloves from her, but the firefish was dead by the next morning . It had some fin tearing and marks from my clownfish, but the chasing and aggression appeared to have stopped by the time I went to bed. I woke up to find the fish being dragged around by my pom pom crab. He's actually a fairly aggressive pom-pom crab and was chasing both my firefish and goby when they were first introduced. I've seen him walk up to the fish and try to grab them with his feet, but I doubt he was the cause of death.

 

Shot of the cloves and the frogspawn I picked up a couple weeks ago:

 

I've seen rapid growth of the pencil cap surprisingly. Over the past couple weeks it already has about 5mm of new growth that you can kind of see in this photo:

[yoshii]

Woo tank's looking good! I'm glad you like the macros, I like the yoshi

 

Sorry to hear about the firefish You think maybe stress + aggression from the clown and crab killed it?

 

Question, does the light from those PAR38s really look that color(10k-more white)? I like the look, I've been wanting to upgrade the lights on my 10g, but maybe instead of waiting for the 10k Kessil to come out I should get a pair of PAR bulbs..

[tako]

Yeah, I'm not sure what did in the firefish. Everything else is doing fine.

 

The colors in the FTS are fairly accurate, but I'd say it's like a 14K color. I'm bad at estimating, but it's no where near as blue as the 15K Kessil you have in the store. I'd say that thing is more like 20K. I'm curious to see what their 10K version is actually going to look like.

[yoshii]

So it's a little more blue than in the pics?

 

Lol yeah that "15k" really looks like 20k to me, but blue LEDs seem to be "bluer" than other blue lights. The 20k Kessil is crazy blue

 

Yeah, I think it will look bluer than other 10k lights. I got to meet David with Kessil a few weeks ago but he didn't have the 10k prototype with him

I'm considering copying your light setup except with PAR30s instead of your PAR38s, what lamp holder did you use?

[tako]

So it's a little more blue than in the pics?

 

Lol yeah that "15k" really looks like 20k to me, but blue LEDs seem to be "bluer" than other blue lights. The 20k Kessil is crazy blue

 

Yeah, I think it will look bluer than other 10k lights. I got to meet David with Kessil a few weeks ago but he didn't have the 10k prototype with him

I'm considering copying your light setup except with PAR30s instead of your PAR38s, what lamp holder did you use?

It's bluer than when I had my biocube with 10K and actinic PC bulbs, but that Kessil is much much bluer than mine. If you go with the PAR30's they will look different because mine has a warm-white and a blue LED in addition to the cool-white and royal blue. I'd think the Rapid LED PAR 30's will be bluer than mine, because they have 3 royal blues and 2 cool whites. Your best bet might be 3 cool whites and 2 royal blues; I think boostLED has that ratio. Out of all the LED pendents I've seen in person, I still feel that the ones I use give the best color rendition and their price just dropped to $89, so there's always that to consider.

 

The lamp I used was a $15 clamp-on light from Office Depot. It has to be clamped around the edge of a table or screwed into it. It comes with a spiral CFL bulb that you can use elsewhere in the house to offset the cost some lol. I had to tighten the screws to get it to hold the weight safely. Some of them stripped, but you can get replacements at a hardware store for a dollar.

 

 

EDIT: Found it, guess it was only $12

http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/6878...n-Task-Lamp-29/

[tako]

Yoshii, here's a shot for you of the light spill from my LED's. I remember you asking about it yesterday. I have them a little high and angled, but they are the only light on in the room to give you an idea. The light is bluer than it appears in this photo and it's not that bright I just over exposed it.