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LED light diy


jtl2

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After researching LED builds I decided to try it myself. Thought I'd post the build here so I can help Evil get to 100 LED builds here on NR.

 

2 - 7.29" x 13" heat sinks

24 - CREE XP-G R5 bin LEDs

24 - CREE XR-E Royal Blue LEDs

4 - Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers

 

Layout of one of the heat sinks

 

BerquistThermalPads.jpg

 

LEDsmounted.jpg

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Spacing is 1.75" between horizontal rows and 2" spacing between LEDs. Not planning to use optics since the fixture will be close to the tank.

 

WiredLEDs.jpg

 

Still seeing spots even with the Meanwell SRV2 and the dimmer control both turned down.

 

Whitesonly.jpg

 

RoyalBlues.jpg

 

 

 

Wow, that is a monster build. What is it going over?

 

A 46 gallon bowfront.

 

This is the 0-10VDC supply for the Meanwell dimmer circuit. You can see how far it was turned down from 10volts.

 

0-10VDCdisplay.jpg

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im putting 60 LEDs over a 72 bowfront lol .. im no expert but WOW that is a lot for a 46

 

With no optics and the dimmer circuit I think it will be fine.

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I am putting 24 LEDs over a 24g nano, which appears common from what I have read here. That would make 48 over a 46 about right wouldn't it?

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Going to make the housing for the heatsinks/LEDs out of wood...any advice on a waterproof spray paint? I've seen Krylon fusion mentioned in some other threads. Thanks in advance

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Most people that are using Krylon are using it to paint their tanks of the plumbing parts. I would not recommend any kind of "rattle can" paint for wood. Do you need a color or just water proofing? A good oil based paint over primer should be fine, but if you want to go HD, swing by your local boating store/Marina and check out what they have in both stains & paints (Marine grade). BTW - nice build thread and love your acrylic dimmer box. Great job so far.

 

I don't know jack about the adhesive pads you used to mount the Crees, but I wondering if using them precludes the need to buff out the heatsink? If so that would be a great time saver.

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Most people that are using Krylon are using it to paint their tanks of the plumbing parts. I would not recommend any kind of "rattle can" paint for wood. Do you need a color or just water proofing? A good oil based paint over primer should be fine, but if you want to go HD, swing by your local boating store/Marina and check out what they have in both stains & paints (Marine grade). BTW - nice build thread and love your acrylic dimmer box. Great job so far.

 

I don't know jack about the adhesive pads you used to mount the Crees, but I wondering if using them precludes the need to buff out the heatsink? If so that would be a great time saver.

 

Thanks for the reply, I was planning to paint the wood black or dark brown and want something that is both waterproof and non-toxic.

 

Yeah the dimmer box is pretty diy.

 

IMO (take it for what it is worth) buffing out aluminum is overkill. The LED is already on a 20mm star to dissipate heat and the minor surface imperfections won't impact heat transfer from the star to the aluminum heat sink to any degree I can measure or care about. I've got a 120mm fan for each heat sink, which should help in heat removal.

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Lights are mounted and running, still want to add quick connects and a cover for the top of the fixture. Shimmer is unreal, need to get a couple of panel ammeters to allow fine tuning of the color.

 

TankLEDs.jpg

 

Frogspawn.jpg

 

Zoas-1.jpg

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Nice build! I'm waiting on 48 LEDs (all XR-E) and 8 Meanwells from the last group buy. Actually I ordered the CWs from DX. I need another 48 LEDs for my project. Aiming for 96 over my 120 on 4 - 10x7 heatsinks. Nice to see something similar.

Where did you get the dimmer PS? I'm going to need two of them.

Tim

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Nice build! I'm waiting on 48 LEDs (all XR-E) and 8 Meanwells from the last group buy. Actually I ordered the CWs from DX. I need another 48 LEDs for my project. Aiming for 96 over my 120 on 4 - 10x7 heatsinks. Nice to see something similar.

Where did you get the dimmer PS? I'm going to need two of them.

Tim

 

Thanks, the dimmer PS came from chaney electronics. The kit is $8.50 plus the cost of a project box (link below)

 

http://www.chaneyelectronicsstore.com/serv...r-Supply/Detail

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u need wood grade paint. theres water proof ones at lowes or homedepot.

 

and if u dont like the wood look u can then use spray paint.

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u need wood grade paint. theres water proof ones at lowes or homedepot.

 

and if u dont like the wood look u can then use spray paint.

 

Agree, I've been trying to decide what to do with the wood frame as far as painting goes.

 

John

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WOW thanks for the link. Can you clarify a couple of pointers for me?

 

Is it a kit, meaning the individual components and a bread board you have to assemble yourself or is it a "card" and you only had to fab a project box for it?

 

How do you switch it between 12VDC and 10VDC?

 

Regardless of the answer above, since the meanwell 48Ds are controlled by a 0-10V current on the DIM -/+ wires, did you have to modify that kit in any other way. Are you still getting full power at 10V and a 200 mA signal?

 

As you can tell, I'm still researching the whole LED thing, but have ordered them and this looks like an alternative to running the Digital Aquatics Lite controller.

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WOW thanks for the link. Can you clarify a couple of pointers for me?

 

Is it a kit, meaning the individual components and a bread board you have to assemble yourself or is it a "card" and you only had to fab a project box for it?

 

How do you switch it between 12VDC and 10VDC?

 

Regardless of the answer above, since the meanwell 48Ds are controlled by a 0-10V current on the DIM -/+ wires, did you have to modify that kit in any other way. Are you still getting full power at 10V and a 200 mA signal?

 

As you can tell, I'm still researching the whole LED thing, but have ordered them and this looks like an alternative to running the Digital Aquatics Lite controller.

 

The dimmer PS is a kit that includes a PCB (already traced) to which you solder the components, they actually give good instructions. All you have to do is build it and put it in a project box, pretty simple, but you are dealing with 120v input.

 

I hooked each one up to a small load (cooling fan) and measured the voltage output by varying the potentiometer. Then I marked the 10VDC max on the project box relative to potentiometer position. You could put a panel voltmeter in the circuit and read it directly as you vary the potentiometer.

 

I am using one dimmer for the whites (two 48Ds) and one to run the blues (also two 48Ds). I think I've read that the dimmer circuit doesn't take much current to work (seems to be true).

 

The only thing with an Ardunio or other controller is that you could ramp up intensity versus on or off....with these dimmers you have manual control, but that is it, they come on at whatever intensity you have them set.

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