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diy stand plans


bitts

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http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/det...61&result=4

 

came up with this after much research and talking with the professor, about his stand.

linky to the professors 40b thread.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=189627

 

will use poket hole joints reinforced by glue, most likly titebond 3. then paint to seal.

 

 

constructive criticism please.

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Ok so I've been fighting with sketch up & Picasso trying to get the exported images to attach to the post. With no luck. But the idea is 1x4's from the tank to the floor to support the weight. By directing it straight down without interruption. These will be joined in the top by 1x6s and 1x4s for the bottom. To complete the front & rear frames. Again using 1x6s & 1x4s to join the front & rear frames. Skinning the back & adding the shelves for both display & sump via plywood. Skinning the front and sides with suitable hardwood to keep the wife happy. There will be doors on both sides as well as the front so as to accommodate a 20long for the sump. While providing greater access. All 4 doors are 1'x2', the front 2 will be hinged in the middle and on the right side. While the door frames will be wood I'm thinking that the panels will most likely be glass. All joints will be pocket hole with glue. While bassing this on panel and frame construction I wanted to avoid the use of panels to maintain simplicity. After the skin is attached, the interior will be painted to help with moisture and minimize wood movement.

 

The planes are on googles sketchup site for anyone who want to use them. please notify us of any improvement that you make & they can be added to this thread. As I make further improvements I will modify my first post.

 

John-Paul

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break down the design to something like this.

14x14stand-1.jpg

 

If you're using sketchup, just export a a jpeg file, upload it on photobucket and link it on here.

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threads other than professors that i have or will be stealing ideas from.

 

 

neanderthalman's 40b, the leveling feet are a must.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145187

 

one of the best stands ive ever seen, check out the skin job.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=155851&hl=

 

lots of pics from previous research.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...amp;pid=2540044

 

pics are always good. the post a pic of your stand thread.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...184618&st=0

 

for looks. helfrich chicks 110, mostly for the doors and how there setup.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...203841&st=0

 

damn. cant find the thread showing how disaster biult his stand. but it proves that one you dont need 2x4's and plywood can look good. i'll find it later.

 

lani's 40b, cause when done right simple wins.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...9492&st=100

 

walking target's stand thread.

this ones got some great ideas about the stand being level.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...p;#entry2736544

 

 

im sure theres more but ehh. i'll add them later.

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does anyone think that it would be nesessary and or beneficial to mitter lock the the front corners, while skinnig the stand ?

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Looks like a decent stand. What size tank will this be?

 

I'm in the process of building a stand as well. It's winter though, so progress is slow.

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Eventually, when I finally do one myself later this summer, hopefully. it will be a 29gallon. Just got warm enough yesterday, that I was able to rough cut the weir. Anyway, I'm trying to set it up so that the plans are easily modified to accommodate the needs of whom ever is ussing them. Be it for a 10gallon or a monstrous 90gallon display. I've always thought the 2x4 plans were a bit of overkill, and I'm hoping these come out to be a nice alternative.

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I don't think 2 X 4's are necessary. I used true 8/4 square and I think it is way over built. Dado Joinery on inside frame. I do sleep well not worrying about it crashing down though.

 

frontangle.jpg

 

Finished photo on my tank thread.

 

Edit: I don't believe that mitre locking the corners of the skin will help if your gonna build the inside frame. But why not, :D It's all for fun isnt it?

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wow I am amazed how many DIY tank stands are incredibly over-engineered, lol. I'm in the process of making a stand for a 10g out of 2x2s using the glue-and-screw method, and even that is more than adequate. in fact, for most tanks using 3/4" ply for the stand completely negates the need for an internal frame. just go to any LFS and see. the stand my 120g is on has all of its vertical pressure on plywood.

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just reading through and noticed that i hadent mentiond. that with pocket hole joinery. you must use the corect type of screw or the joint will fail.

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wow I am amazed how many DIY tank stands are incredibly over-engineered, lol. I'm in the process of making a stand for a 10g out of 2x2s using the glue-and-screw method, and even that is more than adequate. in fact, for most tanks using 3/4" ply for the stand completely negates the need for an internal frame. just go to any LFS and see. the stand my 120g is on has all of its vertical pressure on plywood.

 

ive all ways wonderd if there done that way becuase its just easier to biuld things that way. or if people are actualy that nurvious about there stands.

 

when you get your stand biult you should post some pics here, would love to see it.

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rift-reef2

i love those handels, were they to find?

 

nikeSB

what stain is that looks great?

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rift-reef2

i love those handels, were they to find??

 

Those are from ikea I believe. I went looking for them last week but they didnt have any in stock

 

nikeSB

what stain is that looks great?

 

its 3 coats of minwax polyshades bombay mahogany and prestained as well

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

ok so im hoping that with the tax man sending me some money and the snow season coming to a end. that i will soon be throughing this together. if any one has sugestions or notices something that ive missed. please point them out.

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ok so with changes to my presonal life the biuld may by a few months out. but will try to finish the write up as i can.

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Bitts... you're my hero. I love over-engineering things. If you could take classes to become an over-engineer I would. Okay I'm over-exaggerating a little... I think that making things that are inherently stable by design is better overall than just adding reinforcements until it's a tank. On that note your stand sketches rock. Hopefully we get to see it put together soon.

 

The design principles and construction methods I followed in my 40br contest stand (which is fairly bulletproof) were as follows - in no particular order:

 

1) Design it so that all weight is supported structurally by wood, not by screws or glue. Vertical boards can withstand weight in the effect of like >100 PSI. So a 2x4 arranged vertically is about 3.75 square inches and will thus will support quite a bit (source needed). I opted to rip the 2x4's down to 2x3's and reinforce using 1x3's. This allowed a weight savings over using 2 2x4's at a right angle.

 

2) Design it so that it will stay straight and not bow or sway (also called racking). To accomplish this while still allowing plenty of viewing area I used a design with right angle 1x3's, creating a "box" that ties into each component and creates stiffness. (see paint pic) I'll also be using plywood to enclose the back of the stand (1/4") which will also reduce possible side to side racking. There are several methods to accomplish this. The racking effect is also more pronounced the higher the stand is.

 

3) Design it to be flexible for possible future needs. If you need an inch, give yourself 2 just in-case. There's a fine line when building a custom stand. You want it to be efficient, but at the same time allow for a degree of future adjustability without having to go back and modify the stand. Think about whether or not you may add a sump later, or a bigger skimmer, etc...

 

4) Protect against possible water damage. As water can damage wood, especially particle board and plywood (I wouldn't use MDF at all), paint or seal everything you can. I also chose to caulk the joints to keep water out.

 

5) Use the right tools. Use a good miter saw or table saw to perform exact 90 degree or angled cuts - a good saw blade also goes a long way. A hand saw just won't get you exceptional results. Having exact cuts will allow you to press things together better and allow the wood glue to really bond strong. It's also important to use quality screws. Buy the expensive ones, IME they're stronger (no torqued off screw heads), they drive in easier, and they have a higher shear strength due to quality metals being used. They're also usually coated with an anti-corrosive. Use the same tape measure for the whole project. Not all tape measures are the exact same, so while yours might not be 100% exact at least all your measurements will be the same so things will come out straight. Finally, on the topic of straight, do yourself a favor and have plenty of clamps available for use. They'll let you line things up perfectly before gluing and screwing. 90 degree clamps or a contractors square are also useful.

 

6) Use quality wood. Don't just grab a handful of 2x4's. Pick the quality ones, and if there are various grades available at your lumberyard go for the higher grade ones. Store the wood appropriately when you get it home and keep it in a somewhat humid environment to avoid it warping on you.

 

7) Brows the internet and forums for ideas. They say the ultimate form of adoration is imitation. If you like someones stand ideas there shouldn't be a problem if you adopt them. Sometimes if you ask you can get tips or plans already made. Asking for ideas and help is a good idea too, as long as you have a good concept in mind and description of what you're looking for.

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