ADA 24x18x18

[Ebn]

Finally ran out of space in my custom 24x10x10 (~10g) tank and decided to upgrade to something larger. Here's the 10g tank when it was up...and yes, that's a single MP40W that you see in there.

 

 

I've been contemplating an upgrade for awhile, but the right tank never came along. Then one day, I found out that nips was upgrading and getting rid of his ADA 24x18x18 which was drilled by maeda. I'm familiar with the tank since I facilitated the purchase from AFA. The tank was purchased in July '09 along with the skimmer that nips was using, a H&S A110-F2000.

 

Nips didn't have the time or resources to complete the build he wanted for this tank (plus the fact that he has to move this sucker around on an annual basis), so this in essence is a realization of some of his design.

 

With the tank and skimmer in hand, I was still short a stand to set this on. I spoke to one of the lfs and they told me that they can design something similar to an ADA stand. Having done the whole fwp thing, this was pretty close to exactly what I was looking for. Initial designs for the stand called for poplar, a big door in the front, and two handholds on the sides so that it would be easy to transport around (planning on moving within the next year). The price on the stand was north of the pricetag on an ADA stand, but I was willing to pay more for something different.

 

Along with the stand, I commissioned them to build a corner overflow box to hide the two bulkheads (1" output, 3/4" return), and to also integrate a drybox for a vortech MP40W. Nips had originally sketched out the design as shown here.

 

[Ebn]

In mid July '09, the tank was dropped off at the LFS for the build to begin. During the build time, I was deciding on the additional hardware and came up with the following:

 

Tank: ADA 24x18x18

Skimmer: H&S A110-F2000 (I prefer to overskim; used the Tunze 9002 on the 10g previous to this)

Stand: ADA knockoff from LFS

Light: Giesemann 230+ (150W radium or reeflux; 2 T5s: UVL superactinic + giesmann actinic plus) (currently running)

Circulation: Vortech MP40W (currently running)

Controller: Either the RKE or ACJr. (I own one of each)

Temp controller: TECO 1/8 hp chiller with heater module (currently running)

Return pump: Eheim 1060 or the OceanRunner 2500

Sump: TBD; the 4g custom sump that I was using on the 10g would be too small

 

Most of the above equipment, I already had and was either currently using or was sitting around in storage.

[Ebn]

At the end of August, the LFS called me up for pickup. I've visited the store to take a look at the stand before, but it was early on in the build process (only framed), so nothing caught my eye. When I stopped by for the pickup, I was pleasantly surprised.

 

The stand was beautiful. Solid as can be and while similar to ADA's overall design concept, it was different. Instead of a central door that swung open, the door on the custom sat dead center on the front and recessed. Both handholds on the side came with these covers that mask it when not in use (or to hold wires if you want). Lastly, having the tank there for the build, a hole was notched on the top of the stand to allow the plumbing to sneak through instead of going through externally.

 

Dated shot (8/29/09):

 

The overflow box was slightly larger than the original design, but overall I was pleased with the way that it came out. It hid the pipes, which I wanted, had the integrated dry box for the MP40W, integrated return (you can see the white sticker on the bulkhead for the return in the shot below), and had teeth to keep fish out.

 

[Weetabix7]

Looks VERY nice, looking forward to seeing this setup.

What kind of Reef are you planning on putting in there?

[Ebn]

Mixed reef in mind. Already keeping a mix of SPS, LPS, softies, all of which will make the transfer over.

[Ebn]

On the 26th of July, I took a look at what I wanted out of a sump. Here's the preliminary hash out:

 

 

The skimmer would sit in the sump, with water flowing into the return compartment where one Eheim would feed the chiller and the other Eheim would be the return. The section up front would be a refugium where I can toss some chaeto and throw some sort of pods in.

 

Then, I decided that I didn't want the skimmer to sit inside the sump and while looking at Marc's (melev) site, the first sump that he ever made looked extremely interesting. I forwarded the drawings to a local acrylic craftsman (Gen from Kritter Tanks) and he came back with this google sketchup (I tried using that program and just didn't have time to come up with anything).

 

During the design process, calls and emails were exchanged in regards to the layout of the sump. I decided to ditch the 3 baffle system and instead go with a dual baffle, where the space in between the baffles could be used for the addition of some sort of media. The refugium came back into play in this version.

 

That looked pretty good to me, but I also had plans on running a controller on the system and also integrate a couple of ATO probes. This called for some probe holders, so here is the final version. Probe holders added and also additional slits to lower the water level in the return compartment (water flows from the back left corner to the return compartment, and finally into the refugium so that it gets less flow).

 

From the first design to the final drawing, it took about 5 months (initial design was on 7/26; final design was finalized on 1/4). Partly this was due to me not needing to set up the tank at the time and also due to the holidays.

 

With the plans finalized, the sump went into production later and one week later on the 12th, an in-progress picture was sent.

 

On the 13th, I went and picked up the sump. I was surprised by how small it was, but it matched the dimensions that was stated in the sketchup (reminds me of how small a sump for a 30g was ). In addition to the sump, I also picked up a couple of adjustable probe holders. During the course of the build, Gen thought that it would be better to have some adjustable holders and he produced these:

 

Fully adjustable and clamps on to just about anywhere I wanted them. The left one is for the auto top off (there's 2, only 1 pictured), with holes drilled out per the schematics from aquahub, which I forwarded to Gen. The holder on the right is for the probes (temp, pH, ORP).

[Ebn]

With all the equipment, plans were underway in regards to the plumbing.

 

The overflow needs to feed both the sump and the protein skimmer. Due to that, I threw together the following:

 

The front and back are switched around on these. The front currently uses a 1" sch80 gate valve and dumps the water into the back leftmost compartment of the sump. The back section uses a 3/4" sch40 gate valve and feeds the protein skimmer.

 

For return, I decided to use an Ocean Runner 2500 due to the size of the return compartment (the 1060/1260 that I had originally wanted to use is way too big and really too strong. I can say that without a doubt, this was a wise move. The OR pump is dead silent when running and I'm currently running it with some quick disconnects (for the future when I need to pull it apart for cleaning or when I move).

 

On the 23rd of January, the main lines were plumbed. I decided to do a water test then at a bit past midnight.

 

Underneath in the stand, with the return pump cut off to make sure that the sump can hold the water.

 

 

The protein skimmer wasn't plumbed (the 3/4" gate valve in the back held the water back) when the shot was taken since I still had to figure out a way to get the feed from the main line and also needed to prop it up so that the return from the skimmer could clear the sump rim.

[octoman]

this looks like a great build. Can't wait to see it stocked.

[Ebn]

The next morning when I went to check on the tank, I noticed that the drybox on the overflow had approximately 3" of water or so in it. I filled it pretty late the night before and wasn't sure if I had accidentally spilled some water into the compartment and made no note of it.

 

With that taken care of, I spent the remainder of the next day breaking down the 10g tank that was up, including the stand which it sat on (decent size Ikea brass stand with 4 levels). All the corals were removed and placed into empty 5g buckets and I saved ~80% of the water (not much, like 6g worth with the rock displacements).

 

The 32g was then planted, replumbed, and the corals made it over (no fish in the tank at the time since the only cherub angel that I had in the 10g carpet surfed awhile back). The transitioned went pretty smoothly, but then I noticed that the drybox was waterlogged once again; in other words, there was a leak in one of the seams holding the box together! Instead, I decided to attached the vortech to the back wall similar to how I had it in the 10g.

 

During the move, I also noticed how little rock I had in the 10g (even saving all the rock and water, it didn't make a dent; the tank was moved with 2/3rds newly mixed water). Luckily when Kyle (kvosstra) broke down his tank, I managed to pick up 2 decent size pieces from him, one which had a mass of green sponges throughout. I had these holding in my 5g mixing bucket (5g bucket with heater and MJ900+ecomod) for the past month and while the coralline algae basically disappeared, the sponges were still alive. I ended up using this rock as the base rock since it had such great structure, but left the other one out since it didn't fit in.

 

With that all said and done, this is what the tank looks like later on that night. P.S. don't mind the frag city in the front...still working on it to this day.

[Ebn]

Tank was up and running, but no temp control for the night and the protein skimmer wasn't plumbed in. Also, only 1 vortech is responsible for moving the water around the tank. For the return plumbing, I placed an elbow on the bulkhead fitting to divert the water flow up so that it would agitate the water surface.

 

Next day, chiller was set up. Didn't set it up the previous day since I ran out of tubing. The eheim 1250 that I was using as the return for the 10g has been shifted to the back left compartment where it feeds a Teco 1/8 hp chiller with 400w heating module.

 

Also managed to plumb the chiller into the plumbing. Here it is running on day 3. This sucker is a beast in both size and skimmage compared to the 9002 that I was so used to.

 

 

 

 

[Paleoreef103]

very nice build! I'll be tagging along.

[Ebn]

With all the equipment up and running, the last piece that I needed was some sort of stand light. Once again, off to OSH I went...

 

Talk about changes in lighting. When I put a couple of lights in my 90 fwp display, I managed to pick up a couple of 12" flourescent light. There were no such things any more. LED is the new kid on the block and I managed to pick up a 3 pack of these:

 

 

No wires, powered by AAA batteries, attaches via double sided tape. Sure looks like a winner, plus they look kind of neat (especially if I decided to paint them black).

 

Anyways, when I tested the light later on that night, the spread wasn't the best, but heck, with 3, there would probably be sufficient lighting. So, I double-sided taped one up in the front near the door. The next day, when I went to turn on the light, it wasn't there. I eventually found it, floating in the sump, totally shorted out. So much for that light. Back to OSH I went.

 

This time, I went for the 3 pack of halogen pucks (each 20W). Tacked one into the roof of the stand and was sold. The light was much more intense, although very yellow, and of course, these suckers generate heat. At least they took very little to no room. Here's what it looks like tacked up:

 

...and to get an idea of how bright 1 is:

 

That single light comes on at midnight and shuts off at 10 a.m. It's basically the reverse of my tank lighting cycle and for chaeto (you can see the little amount of chaeto that's currently sitting in the front refugium with a bit of live rock). The other 2 pucks are controlled via switch that I can turn on when I need to work underneath the stand.

 

You can also see the guts that run the tank. From back left corner, it's the eheim 1250 feeding TECO, middle compartment for DIY media reactor for carbon and gfo, and finally the OR return pump. Only one probe, the pH, since my RKE decided to crap on me, so I ended up using an ACJr. for the moment.

 

Both vortechs are also now in operation in night mode. I finally took the time to empty out the overflow box and smeared some weld-on #16 in the seams and it's bone dry.

 

With that, I think we're caught up to date as far as the set up is concerned. More on inhabitants later.

[LogansRunRx]

soooo, i'm confused...

seems like the refugium section of your sump is a dead end???

the flow you describe in the first post:

...water flows from the back left corner to the return compartment, and finally into the refugium so that it gets less flow...

how does water get from your fuge back into the tank???

sorry, maybe i'm missing something...

[Ebn]

Water flow in and out of the teeth leading to the refugium. (see circle portion below)

 

 

The water level/height in the refugium is the same height as the return compartment and water flows in and out pretty freely.

[Ebn]

One less thing to worry about.

 

 

Currently set to dose 40mL spread over 12 doses through the day.

[adinsxq]

lol i didn't know you had a tank.

[bruce922]

Great tank, I like your setup also.

 

 

 

Bruce

[ADAreef]

Rad tank. I think the dark background/floor works really well.

[Arkayology]

This thing looks like it could run on it own. Very nice. You will be getting some killer growth.

[guia x]

Looks like a clean build. I really like the probe and float switch holders. Just noticed you have a clear tube for your return. Aren't you worried about algae growing in it from the fuge light? Also, how is the Bubble Magnus doser working out for you? I'm thinking of automating my dosing but using BRS's doser pump. I would have to use my controller to use them. I'm still thinking whether doing that is better than a stand alone unit that controls all the dosing.

 

BTW, I see you have a war coral that's pretty close to other corals. Does yours not sting the other corals? Mine seem to have these long sweeper tentacles about 3 or 4 inches long and stung my other war coral. I now have it in the back to keep it away from kill all the nearby corals. Suck cuz I really like it.

 

Also, I'm gonna steal your idea of putting those lights inside my stand so I can see what I'm doing in there.

[FiRsT-aNd-LaSt]

Very Nice Setup.

[Ebn]

lol i didn't know you had a tank.

 

Finally crawled out of your cave, eh?

 

Great tank, I like your setup also.

 

Bruce

 

Thanks.

 

Rad tank. I think the dark background/floor works really well.

 

Thanks. Seen plenty of white bottoms and some black; preferred the black in this case.

 

This thing looks like it could run on it own. Very nice. You will be getting some killer growth.

 

Thanks. Hoping that would be the case since I've been inconsistent in my dosing lately.

[Ebn]

Looks like a clean build. I really like the probe and float switch holders. Just noticed you have a clear tube for your return. Aren't you worried about algae growing in it from the fuge light? Also, how is the Bubble Magnus doser working out for you? I'm thinking of automating my dosing but using BRS's doser pump. I would have to use my controller to use them. I'm still thinking whether doing that is better than a stand alone unit that controls all the dosing.

 

BTW, I see you have a war coral that's pretty close to other corals. Does yours not sting the other corals? Mine seem to have these long sweeper tentacles about 3 or 4 inches long and stung my other war coral. I now have it in the back to keep it away from kill all the nearby corals. Suck cuz I really like it.

 

Also, I'm gonna steal your idea of putting those lights inside my stand so I can see what I'm doing in there.

 

Not too worried about the algae growth on the clear tubing. It's just a matter of time that algae grows on them and I've gotten used to it on my previous setup. The BM doser works well so far. Every other hour the pumps would kick in for like 5 seconds or so. The BRS dosers would work too; just gotta hook it up to a controller or a timer. I've used peristaltic like those in the past and they just take a bit more space. Wanted something more integrated (with timer) and the BM is priced right (3 BRS dosers are about the same price).

 

The war coral actually doesn't send out stinging tentacles at all; just the feeding tentacles, which are like 1/8" long. This Aquatic Collection favites is the stinging champ of the group.

 

 

It's very similar to the war coral, but with a purplish red base and eyes which are about doubled to tripled the size of the war coral. Depending on what's around it, it will send out stinging tentacles which are around 1-2". Doesn't seem to harm certain favias, but nukes just about anything else.

 

Very Nice Setup.

 

Thanks.

[guia x]

Not too worried about the algae growth on the clear tubing. It's just a matter of time that algae grows on them and I've gotten used to it on my previous setup. The BM doser works well so far. Every other hour the pumps would kick in for like 5 seconds or so. The BRS dosers would work too; just gotta hook it up to a controller or a timer. I've used peristaltic like those in the past and they just take a bit more space. Wanted something more integrated (with timer) and the BM is priced right (3 BRS dosers are about the same price).

 

The war coral actually doesn't send out stinging tentacles at all; just the feeding tentacles, which are like 1/8" long. This Aquatic Collection favites is the stinging champ of the group.

 

It's very similar to the war coral, but with a purplish red base and eyes which are about doubled to tripled the size of the war coral. Depending on what's around it, it will send out stinging tentacles which are around 1-2". Doesn't seem to harm certain favias, but nukes just about anything else.

 

Thanks for the info on the doser. So I think I'll go with the BRS since I can have more control over with my Aquacontroller.

 

As for the war coral. The one on the photo is the same one I was talking about. I have the same one I think. It was sold to me as a war coral. Now that I look at it further, it does not look like my other war coral. So this other one is a favites, huh.

 

Here's a photo of it. It looks very similar to yours.

 

Here's the other war coral

 

The actual war coral that I have doesn't have the long tentacles. So it explains quite alot. I put them together thinking they were the same species and I just notice the war coral with its skin melting away. Good thing I noticed it before it completely destroyed it. This sucker one night had one tentacle reaching atleast 3" long.

 

Thanks for all the help.

[mew]

lol i didn't know you had a tank thread