El Fab's Simple Guide to Pico Tanks, A Comprehensive Tutorial to Keeping A Successful Pico Options

[adinsxq]

the mod should delete all the post not by el fab, lock the thread for a few days so he can work his tutorial. then open it to the public.

when he's finished, the thread can be distilled into an article
http://www.nano-reef.com/articles/

[uwwmatt]

Nice work

[clownfish1124]

yay new section!

[MitchReef]

Quick question about the Dual Satellite fixture. Does it have separate power cords for each bulb to allow actinic "Sunrise" and "Sunset" cycles?

[el fabuloso]

Yes, it has three separate power cords one for each of the PC bulbs and the moonlight. There are also individual switches for actinic and daylight so you can manually turn them off and on.

This post has been edited by el fabuloso: Jan 14 2009, 02:38 AM

[MitchReef]

Sweet, I first saw that there were separate switches, but I know there are some lights out there with separate switches all powered from one cord, thus making it a virtually unadjustable mess...at least as far as automating, that is...

[Nano Tanker]

Hey El Fab,
How long until the fuge mod post?
Thanks,
NT

[SmittyCoco]

I don't know how I missed this , but great write up El Fab. Now we have somthing to link the noobs 2 !!!!

[el fabuloso]

Part 4: Modding An AquaClear Fuge


The simple design of an AquaClear filter makes it easy to modify as a fuge.

So far we've established the importance of stability in a pico tank be it temperature, salinity or overall water quality. Adding a large sump to a pico can be bulky and impractical so most pico owners use an AquaClear filter to use as a fuge instead. AquaClear filters are commonly used due to their large capacity and simple design, which makes modifying them fairly easy. A well-built AquaClear fuge keeps a pico tank stable by providing extra water volume, optimal flow, and provides additional space for various filter media and equipment.


The two most popular models for this mod are the AquaClear 50 and 70, the latter being the largest model that can be used for picos in the 2.5 to 4-gallon range. While the basic plan is the same for all, some minor tweaks can be done to adjust the layout and reduce the flow depending on your preference and needs. In this tutorial we'll use an AC70 filter although the same process can be done to any of the other AquaClear models. This guide will also attempt to be as resourceful and efficient as possible by utilizing all the parts that come with the filter.

Materials

• AquaClear filter
• Aquarium sealant
• Masking tape
• Scissors
• Serrated knife or a small saw
• X-Acto knife
• Toothpick

Procedure

1. Inspect the package and make sure that all items are present and check for any cracks or damages.




2. Cut the media basket into three pieces. The media basket is designed to hold the filer media and has three distinct parts. You will need scissors to cut them into three different pieces at the seams.




3. Take the bottom part of the media basket and place it over the overflow to assess placement. The bottom part of the media basket will serve as an overflow screen and will help contain everything in the filter. Decide how much room you want for the refugium but leave enough room for other materials and equipment.



4. Cut a notch on the bottom ridge of the screen using an X-Acto knife.



Repeat on the opposite side and make sure the two notches are parallel.



These notches will help support the divider perpendicularly.

5. Put in the overflow screen and the divider to see how they fit.



Assess how high you want the screen to rise above the overflow. Keep in mind that if you set it too low, chaeto and other materials will be able to spill over the display tank so it's best to keep it fairly high but not too high that it impedes the flow.

6. Insert the divider so that it is perpendicular to the overflow screen by sliding it through the notches. You should be able to put these two pieces in without glue.



If you notice a lot of bowing on the backside of the filter then the notches aren't big enough and you will need to adjust them. Observe the setup from all angles before gluing everything down and make sure you're happy with the size of the chambers.



7. Apply aquarium sealant on the sides and the bottom portion of the front part of the overflow screen. Position and press firmly into place.



8. Once the overflow screen is in place, add more sealant on the sides and the bottom portion to seal the piece in.



Use a toothpick to push the sealant into the grid work.



Give the piece some time to dry.

9. In the meantime you can modify the intake tube. The intake tube is way too long for most pico setups so you will need to trim down the part of the "U" tube that goes in the tank. Use masking tape and tape off about an inch to an inch and half area from the top corner of the tube. Use a serrated knife or a small saw to trim off the piece following the edge of the tape.


BE SURE NOT TO TRIM THE PART THAT GOES INSIDE THE FILTER!

10. Take off the tape and rinse everything off. Snap the intake tube into the modified "U" tube.



11. Make additional adjustments including optional steps that help reduce the flow of the filter. A quick and simple one is to cut off the tab on the impeller cover. This will allow the intake tube to turn all the way to the right to decrease the flow even more.



Another common technique to decrease the flow is to clip the impeller blades or to use an impeller from a smaller model. While certainly effective, this requires the additional purchase of an impeller.



12. Take the divider piece and cut off the top. Slide the piece through the notches on the overflow screen with the smooth surface facing the fuge chamber. This will help prevent chaeto from getting tangled and snagging into the tabs.



13. Glue the joints with aquarium sealant. Make sure the overflow screen is completely dry before doing this step.




14. Do a water test once the sealant is completely dry. Check for leaks and make sure everything runs smoothly.



You have the option of using the second divider depending on what you plan to put into your chambers. It can be placed diagonally with a spot to hold the heater creating a sub-compartment for filter floss or whatever mechanical filter media you want to use.



You can place the chemical filter right along the intake tube or in the first chamber. It all depends on your personal preference and how much room you have to work with.

15. Install lighting. You will need to provide the fuge with lighting for chaeto to grow. If you're starting with a pico kit, the stock light that comes with the kit will make an excellent light for the fuge or you can use any small PC lamp. Position the fixture carefully so that the light doesn't bleed into the display tank. Maintaining the fuge on a reverse photoperiod helps prevent pH swings and keeps the light from competing with the display tank during the day.

One of the first things people notice is the increased flow the fuge adds to their setup; so much so that it's one of the most common complaints people have. Keep in mind that over time the flow will decrease as it becomes bogged down with organic materials and debris so it's important to keep it clean on a regular basis.

As the fuge matures it literally becomes a fully functioning refugium harboring a variety of microfauna of its own. Pods, worms, lost corals and other filter feeders can be found in the fuge over time. Various types of algae begin to grow especially on the overflow screen and can work like a mini algae turf scrubber by absorbing nutrients and providing food to the tank.





TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS

1. The object of the horizontal chambers isn't necessarily to keep stuff from touching each other but as a way to keep things organize so that it's easy to clean and change out the different types of filter media.

2. Adjust the leveling device to make sure the fuge is perfectly level at all times to prevent water from spilling.

3. Be sure to compensate for the added water volume. An AC70 fuge can add up to half a gallon of water to your tank. In the event of a power failure or should you need to unplug the filter, all the water in the fuge will be flushed back into the display tank and can cause the tank to overflow if the water level is too high. A good way to prevent this is to fill your tank up to its maximum capacity before powering up the filter. Mark a line once the fuge is up and running and avoid topping off above that line.

4. The use of live rock rubble in the fuge is a hotly debated topic. Because the majority of the biological filtration takes place deep within the live rock pieces in the display tank, the benefits of live rock rubble are somewhat negligible especially with what little pieces you end up using. With that, some people insist on adding live rock rubble to their fuge, which ultimately comes down to personal choice. If you do decide to use live rock rubble in your fuge just make sure to clean them out regularly during maintenance as the trapped debris and detritus can easily release nitrates back into the tank.

Part 5: Setting Up Your Pico

This post has been edited by el fabuloso: Feb 5 2009, 05:56 AM

[Nano Tanker]

You are awesome!!!!

[drog]

Awesome work El Fab!! Thanks so much for this useful guide!

[5galnanoreef]

fab, have you considered adding a section on protien skimmer units like the Rio Nano skimmer. I am running one on my picotope, and I love it. Not everyone uses a fuge, so it might be a good idea to include something about it?

[travisurfer]

interesting fuge mod- it's interesting to see how everyone does it slightly different.

[j'field]

Nice! I am learning alot from this thread as well. Is simply Fabulous Thanks for sharing! A great thread!

Just some questions and oso some of my pointer

1) For pico tanks, as I noe most pico runs without a sump, so when doing Water Change, how do we go about doing it?
Do we just do WC from the tank itself? Cos I noe that some corals and rocks can be scape quite high near the surface. So when we do WC, wouldn't the rocks or corals be expose?
Or maybe we shouldn't stack or scape too high near the surface for pico?

2) Some or most pico doesn't have an overflow, so I think the a surface skimmer can help clears the water surface as well. I think some HOB filter does have a surface skim. When the surface of the water is crystal clear, lights wouldn't be block by the floating debris.

3)Another very important point imo is dosing in a pico, cos the water volume in a pico is small, any little amount can have a very big reaction. So everything that puts in it should have a 'Less is More' rule

Above are just imo. Cos I never had any experience with a pico at the moment.

[travisurfer]

1) For pico tanks, as I noe most pico runs without a sump, so when doing Water Change, how do we go about doing it?
Do we just do WC from the tank itself? Cos I noe that some corals and rocks can be scape quite high near the surface. So when we do WC, wouldn't the rocks or corals be expose?
Or maybe we shouldn't stack or scape too high near the surface for pico?
2) Some or most pico doesn't have an overflow, so I think the a surface skimmer can help clears the water surface as well. I think some HOB filter does have a surface skim. When the surface of the water is crystal clear, lights wouldn't be block by the floating debris.
3)Another very important point imo is dosing in a pico, cos the water volume in a pico is small, any little amount can have a very big reaction. So everything that puts in it should have a 'Less is More' rule

1) It's ok if the rocks are exposed during a water change. There are plenty of reefs in which corals are exposed to the air during low tides with no ill effects.
2) Surface skimmers really aren't all that necessary.
3) You don't have to dose in a pico.

[Lalani]

J, are you planning a pico?

[j'field]

1) It's ok if the rocks are exposed during a water change. There are plenty of reefs in which corals are exposed to the air during low tides with no ill effects.
2) Surface skimmers really aren't all that necessary.
3) You don't have to dose in a pico.

Wow, thanks travisurfer for the quick reply. Lol! This shows tat I dun have any experience in a pico.

Yup, what you have say are very true as well!
I think what a pico needs most is a regular water change
Cos with regular water change, you dun have to dose anything and wouldn't have any or much floating debris

As least what I have voice out are some things that many would like to noe as well

Hi Lalani, not at the moment but I might be learning for future use

This post has been edited by j'field: Jan 24 2009, 01:29 PM

[PSYS]

Awesome information... very informative.

I really like the idea of a small pico tank. I was lost during the AC70 fuge instructions after you cut the media baskets into three separate pieces. I'm definitely gonna have questions if/when I get to that point. Haha. I do like the idea of the fuge though.

Nice job and very well done. What a great idea for a sticky!

[bhenry]

So I just started my pico almost a month ago i used a old hob filter for a fug but it isn't very large. So I am going to cahnge it to a ac70. In your tank did you alter the flow at all and if so how much. Also is the ac70 enough flow by itself or do you have a powerhead in it as well.

[el fabuloso]

Part 5: Setting Up Your Pico



Setting up a pico is surprisingly simple and straightforward. The previous three parts to this guide provided a long list of tools and supplies although most of them—depending on the tank you choose—will not be required in the initial setup. If you decide to go with a custom AGA tank you will need to choose your light fixture and setup your filter and/or DIY mods at this point. If you're setting up a pico kit, the tank should be good and ready right out of the box. However at this point you should have a pretty solid plan in terms of the type of lighting and equipment you will be using down the line. A JBJ Picotope will be used for this guide given its popularity although the same steps can be applied regardless of the type of tank and setup you decide to go with.

You will need the following components to get started:

• Tank (including light and filter)
• Saltwater
• Live rock
• Live sand
• Heater
• Powerhead
• Spray paint (optional)

Once you've gathered up all the different tools and components required to run a pico, you're finally ready to put it all into action.


Step 1: Prepare the tank and all the equipment



Rinse out the tank, filter and all the equipment that will go inside the tank with tap water. If you want to spray paint the back of your tank, do so now. Run a water test by filling the tank with water and check for leakage.


Step 2: Assess your live rock



No matter where you get your rock from, it should smell clean and fresh. Clean the rocks by scrubbing them while at the same time inspecting for any unwanted hitchhikers and removing any visible debris.


Step 3: Arrange your rockwork



Fill the tank halfway with saltwater to prevent the rocks from drying out as you're working and decide where you want to place the heater and the filter.



It will take some time to find a layout that you're happy with and be sure to inspect your layout from all angles. Also make sure that your rockwork is sturdy and secure.


Step 4: Add live sand



Once you're happy with your rockwork, add live sand. This is a messy and cloudy process that will make it difficult to see what you're doing so you will need to frequently view your progress from outside the tank.



Add in the sand one small scoop at a time and spread them evenly between the rocks as best as you can until you get the desired depth. Anywhere from an inch to an inch and a half of sand is a good amount.


Step 5: Power up



Fill the tank up and plug everything in. Cloudiness is normal and should start to clear up in a few hours. You may need to manually remove the excess layer of foam on the water's surface. Chemical filtration should only be added after the tank has finished cycling. Until then, filter floss is all that's required to trap suspended debris, which you will need to replace frequently until the tank has completely cleared up.


Step 6: Add powerhead



Add the powerhead once everything has settled. The increased flow will help minimize the growth of diatoms and any other undesirable algae. Unless there are photosynthetic hitchhikers on your live rocks, a full photoperiod isn't required at this point and should be kept at a minimum to discourage algae growth.

TIP: Spray-painting the back of the tank is a common method for concealing the backside of the tank and is strictly a matter of personal taste. Although this may seem like a minor modification, be aware that some studies have shown considerable difference in the amount of light reflected between tanks with the back spray-painted and those without. Though the effects may be negligible it is still worth noting considering the irreversible process. Make sure to read the article, A Look at Backgrounds: To Paint or Not To Paint to help weigh-in on your decision.

Now that you're set up you must test your water parameters closely to monitor your cycle. Cycling is an important process that can vary from one tank to another, depending on various factors such as the quality of rock you're using. In the next part we'll cover cycling and what you need to look out for to get through it.


Stay tuned for the next installment: Cycling

This post has been edited by el fabuloso: Feb 5 2009, 06:14 AM